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Post by woodentopp on Jul 16, 2013 10:56:06 GMT 1
Yet another float height thread!
In the technical section it says that for a 31K the float height/fuel level should be 0.5mm under the joint face. Is this when the carb is mounted on the bike (i.e at an angle) or horizontal on a work bench/in a vice?
Any pic's would be great!
Cheers.
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Post by theodoric on Jul 17, 2013 10:16:19 GMT 1
If it helps I had an issue with mine flooding and the book says the top of the float bowl was to be set at 21mm from the
joining face. This was set but an expert (NOT ME!!) by holding the carb in hand until it just touched the float needle.
It's been spot on since and I get no floods. It's not a very bright light but I hope that shed's some light on your problem?
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Post by seahorse83 on Jul 17, 2013 11:34:44 GMT 1
set em up on the bench level, run a clear line from the overflow up the side of the carb, get the level to stop right at the float bowl seam. Get both exactly the same, takes a bit of mucking around, float bowls on and off, and micro bends of the tang, but once you get em exactly the same you will be happy. I have never had any luck with the 21mm measurement, infact iv done that before and double checked with the clear line and found it to be a fair way out. This could be down to the condition of the needle and seats I suppose. Probably best to start with fresh needles and seats, yammbits sell rebuild kits that include them. Iv run the clear line method on two rz'z that I have completely rebuilt, including carb overhauls. The only problem I ever encountered was mixing up the float bowles. "rookey mistake" at nearly fifty :>
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Post by Bozzy on Jul 17, 2013 21:58:32 GMT 1
set em up on the bench level, run a clear line from the overflow up the side of the carb, get the level to stop right at the float bowl seam. Get both exactly the same, takes a bit of mucking around, float bowls on and off, and micro bends of the tang, but once you get em exactly the same you will be happy. I have never had any luck with the 21mm measurement, infact iv done that before and double checked with the clear line and found it to be a fair way out. This could be down to the condition of the needle and seats I suppose. Probably best to start with fresh needles and seats, yammbits sell rebuild kits that include them. Iv run the clear line method on two rz'z that I have completely rebuilt, including carb overhauls. The only problem I ever encountered was mixing up the float bowles. "rookey mistake" at nearly fifty :> Sorry mate just wanted to check when you say Float boal seam is this basically the face of the bowl gasket? Want to use this method but just need to check where the level should be. |
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Post by billyboy on Jul 17, 2013 22:56:21 GMT 1
i think there is a rectangular bit about 6mm long on the top lip that is missing ,so you can see the joint face
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Post by Bozzy on Jul 18, 2013 23:51:59 GMT 1
Well spent ages tonight checking float height. It's smack on 21 mm ruler method. Using tube method the level came upto just the underside of the rim or where the bowl has a top lip the bottom edge of this top lip. Both carbs were at exactly the same point so I did not mess.....did do that stupid thing (see other post)
One thing I have found is.that the 22.5 pilots are really worn against new 22.5 but my motor is telling me its too lean on them..
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Post by seahorse83 on Jul 19, 2013 9:23:49 GMT 1
your air screws should be doing all the telling. Find the highest idle point then just wind them back in a bees dick. If your under 3/4 turns out or more than 2 & 1/2 turns out on the air, then the cancensus is to come up or down a pilot size.
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