totally stuck lc 250 timing

[steelerd]

Hi guys trying to time my rd 250 lc for the first time moved the rotor to tdc and set it at 0 rocked it till it didnt go past 0 anti clockwise then,

moved it to 4mm clockwise the back to 2 mm and this is where it lands

when i tried the bike before i stripped it when i looked at it before buying wouldnt rev clear of 8k barrel an piston was scored could the lack of revving be down to the timing being this far out? all new to me


wondering if ill get that level of movement on the stator plate

thanks in advance

tom

[arrow]

That's way over advanced. You should be able to get it right, the screws are at the "other" end of the slots.

[arrow]

What's the reading on the gauge when the marks do line up?

[steelerd]

ill go try now mate and see where there coming to

[arrow]

When you fitted the key, is it in good condition and not loose?

[steelerd]

didn't fit it arrow not touched the bottom end just the top,

with it as the pic before this is how the guage is



then the dial test stops turning at this

[arrow]

Look at the other dial that counts the turns, it hasn't even moved half a turn. It needs be about 3 full turns at TDC.

[steelerd]

alot closer at 82 before the gauge stops turing than when its at 2 as the line i lining up with the bit on the plate at least

[arrow]

Jul 7, 2013 21:29:59 GMT 1 arrow said:

Look at the other dial that counts the turns, it hasn't even moved half a turn. It needs be about 3 full turns at TDC.

[arrow]

Pm sent.

[Tone]

If the gauge has only moved that far it sounds like you need to lower the gauge into the stand a bit that screws into the plug hole. If you undo the screw on the side of the stand you should be able to lower the gauge enough. Looking at the two dials in the pictures the gauge has only moved 0.17 of a mm. Remember that one full revolution of the dial equals 1mm and if the needle moves from 8 to 9 that is only 0.1 of a mm.

[steelerd]

Pretty sure yambits have sent me the wrong extension rods ffs lol as the long is way to long cant even get the piston half way up lol emailed em but no reply I'll have to phone them after work

[muttsnuts]

you need to make sure that the plunger in the adpater for the dial gauge is well inside the combustion chamber and is touchiung the top of the piston for more than 2mm of movement when the piston is at least 2mm BTDC, if you set it so that the dial gauge is "dwelling" at TDC, then when you turn the engine backwards you need to keep and eye on the dial guage, it should "turn backwards" all the way down and for at least 2mm of travel, so 2 full rotations of the dial if that makes sense.

Its possible that the plunger you have in the adapter isn't long enough or the plunger on the dial gauge isn't long enough and isn't engaging on the top of the plunger all of the time, you need to check both to be sure.

If in doubt, take the dial guage off, remove the plunger from the adapter, get a long thin screwdriver, put it down the hole, bring the engine to TDC and then mark the screwdriver with a marker pen or the likes, turn the engine back 1/8 of a turn (which should be enough), then mark the screwdriver again.

Take it out, measure the gap between the 2 marks, put the plunger back, using the screwdriver again, mark it at TDC again, turn the engine back 1/8 of a turn, mark the screwdriver, remove the screwdriver and measure the gap, they should be the same, anything less and it suggests the plunger is too short and not in contact with the piston all of the time

HTH

[steeley]

a tip for you guys with dial gauges ,I made a probe out of a push bike wheel spoke when the ones in the kit were to short.

[steelerd]

Just heard back of yambits apparently you have to cut the larger.one down to size for the lc as the short one is to short really wish they had put that on the item description work out the length tone haha