paulo
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 406
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Post by paulo on Jun 17, 2013 14:20:33 GMT 1
Wiped one of the pre-installed programmes off when messing about confirming the ignition timing. Can anyone help with a good programme for a YPVS, slightly ported, with standard exhausts.
Many thanks Paul.
By the way, still trying to get my head round how to install and amend.
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Post by bryan on Jun 17, 2013 15:50:55 GMT 1
didnt it come with a sheet with them on, PM me your email and Ill send you a 31K curve.
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Post by bryan on Jun 17, 2013 16:00:01 GMT 1
Ive uploaded to Imageshack, right click and copy then you can print it.  Load a 20deg flat curve in to Programma 10 as you will need this to confirm your stattic advance is 34.5 deg or near with a strobe light. You will need to adjust the static value until the timming markes line up. You will rearly need to put a 20deg mark on the rotor with a timming disk and dial gauge like mine below, as the stamped marks looking like an H are not accurate, but as long as you are between them it might be ok.  There is a timming disk sheet on Boruts site that you can print out and stick on card, attached link below. www.zeeltronic.com/page/misc.phpIf you get a 9v smoke alarm battery you can power the CDI up with programmer attached sitting in your livving room playing with it. You must first save a program you enter and then go in and load porogram as it wont work if you dont, its not that clear in the instructions. Also, you cant set a timming value highter than the timming point one number higher. |
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paulo
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 406
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Post by paulo on Jun 18, 2013 3:53:30 GMT 1
Many thanks for the help Bryan. It was when I loaded up the 20 degree flat to confirm the timing that I messed up.
As you say, the instructions aren't to clear. Will try and get my head around it over the next few days - probably easy when you know how!.
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Post by bryan on Jun 18, 2013 13:59:35 GMT 1
You have to be careful you are getting your static value correct and your not running too advanced timming (higher number) as you wil damage your engine, err on the side of too retarded (lower number) as it is safer and will only loose you some power.
Other thing is checking compensation value with timming light at higher reve, otherwise piston gets closer to TDC in the time it takes plug to actualy spark at higher engine speeds.
If you need to chat, pm me and I'll give you my number.
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Post by copper99 on Jun 18, 2013 20:01:57 GMT 1
Ive nothing to add other than what a useful guy Bryan and the members on this site are!
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Post by bryan on Jun 18, 2013 21:03:55 GMT 1
I copy loads of useful stuff to post up to help people, anything I see on LCs, YPVS and RD/RG500s that im interested in is on my hard drive.
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Post by bryan on Jun 18, 2013 21:41:46 GMT 1
Here is some other Zeel stuff may be of use. Think these were from BDK.   This is a few of the curves some of us were using, Seb4L0 was for a big 500cc plus Trinity barreled motor running on Avgas so was quite advanced as it was also stroked.  |
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paulo
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 406
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Post by paulo on Jun 19, 2013 2:46:09 GMT 1
Cheers again Bryan for the offer of help. Think I checked my static timing correctly - found top dead centre, marked flywheel inline with reference pointer. Attached timing disc, found 20 degrees BTDC, marked flywheel again. Loaded 20 degree flat curve, started the bike up, held revs at 2000rpm & confirmed static timing when strobe showed 20 degree mark in-line with pointer, checked static angle on hand held programmer which showed 34.5 degrees - no adjustment needed.
Reloaded curve #2 today, switched handle bar switch to position 2, showed 2 on
programmer display, went to load ignition curve #2 and pressed enter and then saved ignition curve #2, enter - is this right ?.
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Post by bryan on Jun 19, 2013 9:04:03 GMT 1
you then need to go and load curve 2 as thats is the last thing to do to make sure you are running the curve that you want to use, you have timming and revs showing on hand held programmer. I know Im repeating it but once you have more than one curve in its easy to not know what one you a running, so always load the curve number as the last thing when making changes.
The manual is rearly showing it in the wrong order for programming, go to Ignition curve (this is the one you have loaded and are using) make any changes then save, then load that curve to ensure you are running the one you want and confirm on the desplay again that you are getting those values you want.
What I also did was make each curve with a different timming value for the tick over revs so I knew which curve was loaded, only do it .1 different as at tickover it will be ok and dont have too many programmed, keep a note of each program and any changes so what you have writen down is correct to what is in the memory.
You can always go back into ignition curve and go through each point to see what each value is on the loaded curve.
Load you 20 deg curve and save it in #10 and use the first few numbers for you curves.
Also, once you load you curve with the points you programmed in and saved, all you need to do is go in and make changes and save to another number so you have a second curve, make changes and save again.
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Post by garry1366 on Jun 21, 2013 10:28:37 GMT 1
I've been thinking of putting a zeel on my bike but my head hurts after reading this!!!
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Post by 4l04ever on Jun 21, 2013 12:05:00 GMT 1
I fitted one on my LC and got 5hp gain from 6000rpm upwards.... Got a custom curve programmed in while setting up on the dyno.
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Post by bryan on Jun 21, 2013 12:30:00 GMT 1
The biggest advantage is in mid range. LC has flat curve in the CDI, and retards ignition by about 3 degrees up to full throttle, this is because although its static the piston gets closer to TDC as engine spins faster in the time it takes signal from pulsar coil to got through CDI and fire plug tip. At lower revs you need more advance to fully burn the inlet charge to get all the power out of it. The stock timming is giving you what you need at the top end but falling far short in lower revs, think I was running about 25 deg at 3,000 rpm. It made a big change in the pick up below the powerband, and if you have tunned barrels and higher compression its even worse as you need to set you static timming even more retarded so you don't hole/melt your pistons.
The Zeel is not that hard to set up rearly, as most of the YPVS stators are 34.5 deg, its a bit harder on an LC stator as you have to extend the slots to advance the back plate.
You can sit in your living room and connect CDI to a small 9 volt battery, plug the programmer in and play about with it to get used to the way it works b4 instaling it.
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Post by nige on Jun 22, 2013 9:43:55 GMT 1
Was thinking of fitting one to my valvie. Noticed there is 2 one has inbuilt programmable ypvs box. Is there much advantage to this or better sticking with zeeltronic ignition and standard valve settings.
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Post by bryan on Jun 27, 2013 0:11:48 GMT 1
the programmable PV makes quite a difference in performance im told, aslong as you put the right curve in that is, best done on a dyno with runs at 1,000rpm intervals and build a curve with the max bhp at each point.
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Post by steve h on Jun 27, 2013 0:35:50 GMT 1
I've been thinking of putting a zeel on my bike but my head hurts after reading this!!! Know the feeling. I struggle with the tv remote.  |
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Post by garry1366 on Jun 27, 2013 22:40:19 GMT 1
I've been thinking of putting a zeel on my bike but my head hurts after reading this!!! Know the feeling. I struggle with the tv remote. I never get to use that, her indoors has it for soaps, I just clear off to the shed! |
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Post by botty on Jun 28, 2013 20:07:19 GMT 1
My aircooled rd ypvs powered hybrid is going to TSA to have a pair of pipes fitted on Sunday.
Then it's going to a man in the know to fit/set up a PCDI 10v . Supplied by Norbo.
A job like the rest(some) of you, is waaaay above my head. I am not millennium compatible at all.
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Post by bryan on Jun 29, 2013 4:40:20 GMT 1
its a bit more work on an LC as you have to slot the bolt holes a bit longet to get the static advance you need, but on an LC you can only use 2 as the bolt hole buy the pulsar coil cant be made any longer, not sure if AC is the same but would think it is.
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