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Post by Delbert on Jun 1, 2013 21:19:00 GMT 1
I keep getting air bubbles in the oil lines 'more so on the left hand feed . This seems to happen more on a hotter day than a cool one more so after a good thrash . I have checked the pipes are secure at the pump . They are new clear lines from yambits . This used happen before I fitted a replacement from arrow so I know the pumps good hence why I changed the lines when fitting . My only thought is this, the oil pipes are very close to the right hand barrel ,the left being closer where'd they exit the pump and get rather warm , does it sound feasible the oil could be boiling in the pipes ?? May try a spring on the pipes to take some heat away , Any thoughts ?
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Post by skaterboy on Jun 1, 2013 22:14:23 GMT 1
What ever it is it is not the oil boiling. If you have recently replaced or removed the pump then prob air trapped in the pump making its way out. Not sure but there is a oil seal on the inside of the engine cover to stop gear box oil entering the system maybe at fault and sucking air or at the gasket joining pump to its mount. Strange it was doing this before and after oil pump was overhauled by Arrow so you can prob rule out pump if the issues persists. I would not bother with springs on line as take a hold of pipe with your hand. These do get warm but no were near boiling the oil.
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Post by arrow on Jun 1, 2013 22:17:37 GMT 1
Check the oil feed inlet to the pump is nice and clear, you should get full flow whilst bleeding the pump. Are the outlet pipes secured with the correct collets/retainers?
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Post by Delbert on Jun 1, 2013 22:35:30 GMT 1
Thanks for you input skaterboy , I know the pump is good as it wasn't just refurbed it was a replacement .
Arrow , I must admit there was no way on this earth I could those retainters supplied with the lines on so I used some lock wire to secure them ,, do you think this was not one of my finer moments ?
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cooler
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 490
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Post by cooler on Jun 1, 2013 22:37:53 GMT 1
had the same problem and like arrow says ...bleed the pump good and proper ( put some oil down the bores before bleeding ) make sure the pipes are properly secured on the pump ( twist a bit of wire to secure if need be ) prime the pipes with oil using a plastic syringe ( get one from any chemist ) then fit to the carbs .....
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Post by arrow on Jun 1, 2013 23:00:52 GMT 1
The pump supplied to you was actually the pump off my own bike, not that that matters. Lock wire is fine as long as it is actually sealing. The collets are a tight fit for a very good reason.
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Post by Delbert on Jun 1, 2013 23:42:10 GMT 1
I will recheck the oil line security & take it from there. Strange I has this with the old pump & lines , always after a good thrash , years ago I had an old gt250 that did the same
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Post by arrow on Jun 1, 2013 23:44:23 GMT 1
There was a guy on the A/C forum that never sorted this issue, hope you wont be the same matey. The seal on the worm shaft could be an issue as mentioned earlier.
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Post by Delbert on Jun 2, 2013 13:13:01 GMT 1
Of course if you have the oe black lines then you would be non the wiser !!!
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Post by arrow on Jun 2, 2013 13:51:20 GMT 1
Thanks for you input skaterboy , I know the pump is good as it wasn't just refurbed it was a replacement . Arrow , I must admit there was no way on this earth I could those retainters supplied with the lines on so I used some lock wire to secure them ,, do you think this was not one of my finer moments ? Why could you not use the retainers?
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Post by Shytalk on Jun 2, 2013 14:07:24 GMT 1
Thanks for you input skaterboy , I know the pump is good as it wasn't just refurbed it was a replacement . Arrow , I must admit there was no way on this earth I could those retainters supplied with the lines on so I used some lock wire to secure them ,, do you think this was not one of my finer moments ? Why could you not use the retainers? If its clear tube then it'll be thicker so he won't be able to push the retainers over the spiggot and tube, stick with the Yamaha black tube and at least the clamps will fit as they need to. You know the pumps OK so why do you need to see the oil - the exhaust will tell you that its getting there.
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Post by davey on Jun 2, 2013 15:11:05 GMT 1
I jad the same problem with the clear line retainers and used some wire ties to and havent seen a problem Maybe the company who supplied the oil lines should be informed about this
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m1ke
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 399
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Post by m1ke on Jun 2, 2013 15:34:54 GMT 1
Yambits clear oil line comes with retainers that are almost impossible to get on... But you can get them on if you try...
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Post by arrow on Jun 2, 2013 15:37:14 GMT 1
There is a nack to it, and you have to lube the outside of the pipe with grease.
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Post by Delbert on Jun 2, 2013 15:52:01 GMT 1
The problem was as said , I was struggling to the point of.damaging the pipe trying to get the retainers on so I opted for the lock wire ,, you ask why I need to see the oil ? Wish I couldnt now !
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Post by arrow on Jun 2, 2013 19:04:41 GMT 1
I think the problem is the lock wire. The collets hold the pipe secure over a much larger area. When the pipes are hot the clear pipe goes VERY soft. The lock wire only holds at one set tension the collets are of course springs which can constantly move, and constantly seal.
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Post by arrow on Jun 2, 2013 19:13:13 GMT 1
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Post by Delbert on Jun 2, 2013 20:51:06 GMT 1
Thanks arrow will try those out & see what happens ,
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Post by arrow on Jun 2, 2013 23:14:23 GMT 1
They work well matey. keep us informed.
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Post by stanlc7189 on Jun 5, 2013 0:42:56 GMT 1
I've just bought some clear oil lines from Yambits and they come with the good clips as standard now.
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Post by Delbert on Jun 5, 2013 7:05:28 GMT 1
I've just bought some clear oil lines from Yambits and they come with the good clips as standard now. Yes mate , Thats what I bought , let me know how you get on fitting them because I found it all but impossible , I just ordered some more & will try again ,
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Post by copper99 on Jun 5, 2013 22:45:57 GMT 1
Im hoping my new pump will sort this same issue, I have cm gaps in my lines, not bubbles...strange thing is, when the bike is sitting idle and not running, overnight the lines fill totally with no bubbles apparent at all...still leaking oil from the reedblock a tad thou
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Post by arrow on Jun 5, 2013 23:58:39 GMT 1
Copper99, when you say new pump, do you mean NEW? Sounds to me like the check valves are passing. Does the bike smoke quite a bit on start up, after its been standing for a few days? And is there any evidence of an oil leak from the end of the plunger shaft after the bike has been standing?
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Post by copper99 on Jun 6, 2013 8:03:05 GMT 1
Copper99, when you say new pump, do you mean NEW? Sounds to me like the check valves are passing. Does the bike smoke quite a bit on start up, after its been standing for a few days? And is there any evidence of an oil leak from the end of the plunger shaft after the bike has been standing? Got your mails mate and replied, thank you. Yes, a new genuine Yam pump.@£151. Fingers crossed, my new best friend will be fitting it tomorrow. Yep, smokes a lot on start up but ive nothing to compare it to, not seen another LC start from cold since 1986 ! no obvious leaks under the pump cover mate.
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Post by arrow on Jun 6, 2013 10:42:18 GMT 1
Ok, good luck with that.
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Post by Taylormade on Jun 6, 2013 19:36:36 GMT 1
That's interesting arrow! After mine has been standing for a few days it smokes allot on start up!! But not if started the next day!
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Post by Taylormade on Jun 6, 2013 19:38:15 GMT 1
Can something be done with the check valves??
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Post by arrow on Jun 6, 2013 19:40:02 GMT 1
Check valves matey, I renew the balls as a matter of course and clean the valve seats with a purpose made brush. It's just part of the standard service.
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Post by Taylormade on Jun 6, 2013 19:43:47 GMT 1
Sweet! ??
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Post by arrow on Jun 6, 2013 19:47:27 GMT 1
Some of the balls are discoloured and marked. The spring exerts very little force on the ball so they pass if not in perfect condition. Years of inactivity is the biggest cause of this.
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