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Post by bryan on May 28, 2013 20:46:35 GMT 1
Got to replace the basket on the restored bike as its dragging and wont come out of gear as its grooved where the fiber plates sit, looks like its been filed b4.  Ground the back of the rivets off with an angle grinder but they can be drilled if you have a drill press. Then knocked through with a punch.  Back plate off showing the 2 size of damper rubbers showing the gap in them.   Removing the primary drive shows the red fiber gasket/spacer which has the outside half missing.  I will be fitting a billet basket which are £95 including postage from Norbo and new rubbers which are about £20 from Yambits. |
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Post by bryan on May 28, 2013 21:09:42 GMT 1
I dont think they are, but they could be, not going to give it away is he, but they are a bit cheaper than NK.
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Post by bryan on May 28, 2013 21:31:08 GMT 1
Yambits ones are £15
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Post by viffer on May 28, 2013 21:50:59 GMT 1
O.K. then put it this way would you fit Yambits crank seals  Buy cheap, buy twice. |
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Post by bryan on May 28, 2013 21:58:02 GMT 1
O.K. then put it this way would you fit Yambits crank seals nope, only buy from Yamaha.  |
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Post by jon on May 30, 2013 21:07:35 GMT 1
Difficult isn't it?
Spend money on the best things available (for supposed) piece of mind?
Brand loyalty? I suspect some genuine Yamaha bits for RD-LC's are not all made in the 80s+ in Japan.
It's really difficult these days to say something is worth paying twice as much (+) than others, based on the past. Times change.
As an engineer I would really love to see an engine built with reputable (& modern) components tested for longevity against (NOS genuine Yamaha) components. Maybe an endurance test?
Basically it boils down to risk.
I would not have thought a clutch basket rubber a huge risk to major engine failure. However a piston ring I would have rated far higher.
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Post by dusty350 on May 31, 2013 8:24:52 GMT 1
Interested in how you get on with this Bryan, as I am considering doing the same with mine. Biggest issue is the use of screws to secure the basket rather than rivets. Which threadlock do you intend to use ?
Dusty
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Post by bryan on May 31, 2013 11:49:32 GMT 1
Ill use stud and bearing one as I think I read its stronger. I may swap the bolts for longer ones as the ones shown in the pics of the look a bit short.
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Post by steeley on May 31, 2013 12:21:02 GMT 1
some one some where has got to have the rivets .lets have some measurements for them.will be doing the same to my clutch basket after the summer,that will be in a couple of weeks then.
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Post by archloafer on May 31, 2013 13:54:21 GMT 1
There was an article in Classic Motorcycle Mechanics recently, where Stan Stephens showed how to replace the clutch basket rubbers. So I guess he might be a possible source of rivets? Or maybe Martin at Taymar?
On the back of this, I've been looking at my clutch. There seems to be a little bit of movement between the basket and the primary gear - I'd guess 2 or 3 mm at the most. Will measure it at some point. Anbody know how much movement is acceptable before the rubbers need replacing?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 31, 2013 16:34:55 GMT 1
Have had a billet basket for mine since last year but not got round to fitting it yet.
Got a new bronze bush and the steel one for the shaft but not picked up a set of rubbers.
Will be using the bolts supplied, not worried about them. Just can't be bothered taking it to bits when it still works other than a bit of noise. Should get my finger out as clear window has cracked so might motivate me, should really MOT it as well.
Steve
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Post by dusty350 on May 31, 2013 16:43:54 GMT 1
Is everyone using the Mitaka basket ?
Dusty
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Post by bryan on May 31, 2013 17:09:03 GMT 1
Sean and Martin have, and Rob had his straight cuts built with one by Bob Farnham. Sean used the bolts that came with them and Martin used longer ones. I was going to use them if I couldnt get any longer ones, and as Steve says their ok I will go with them. Got he Weisco rubbers from NK today, £23.95 posted, and they take up most of the slack.  Old ones. I got price of new compleet basket from Yamaha and they are £302 including primary gear. The centre bush that goes on the input shaft is £20 and the 2 thrust washers either side are £5 each, Mitaks basket £96 posted and bronze bush is £15, so total rebuild cost using your own primary drive is £165. If you get a new one you will need to sorce a matching primary pinion. |
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Post by dusty350 on May 31, 2013 17:22:23 GMT 1
I believe the Mitaka basket is hard annodised, making it more wear resistant. Are Yam baskets hard annodised ?
Dusty
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Post by bryan on May 31, 2013 17:25:10 GMT 1
Nova Transmission do one too for £150, so Mitaka it is!
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Post by jon on Jun 1, 2013 8:45:30 GMT 1
Replaced my clutch basket with a Mitaka one too.
I was also worried about the supplied screws looking like they were not up for the job.
In the end I used 12.9 countersunk screws (as they have a very high tensile strength) were a little longer. I had a hell of a job countersinking the steel (hardened) thrust plate. Ground it out with a die grinder in the end. The reason I used longer screws was purely to give a larger surface area for the studlock (stronger than nutlock) to work.
When is someone going to make a replacement with countersinks separate from a complete basket assembly?
From what I can make out the screws will get little shear force. However they are subject to a tensile force as the rubbers compress. Just look at all the marks on the thrust plate where the rubber has been squashed onto it.
That said Mitaka is a reputable company, so I suspect the supplied bolts are up to the job. If they were to fail you can rest assured you'd of got to hear about it from somewhere like this forum perhaps.
Ps yes Mitaka is a hardened basket where Yamaha is not.
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db8888
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 329
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Post by db8888 on Jun 1, 2013 9:24:14 GMT 1
aim confused with the new rubbers being the same size when the gen yam ones are different sizes when I rebuilt my clutch using a Mitaka one I looked at the the Weisco ones and when they were the same size it made me look at how the genuine ones work they they were not worn but are different sizes if you were to look at the rubbers from the engine cover side the small ones would be on your left at 12 oclock as the basket spins anti clockwise the small rubbers will be loaded when riding the bike when shutting off the throttle the basket will move and get dampened by the larger rubber if there were no gap then every time the basket moves the rubbers will get squashed as there is no gap to allow for movement this is how I see it with the gen yam ones fitted . not saying the Weisco ones wont work but they wont work the same way as the gen yam ones to....
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Post by bryan on Jun 1, 2013 12:48:23 GMT 1
65lbs/ft, seems high for M6!
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Post by bryan on Jun 1, 2013 15:52:41 GMT 1
65lbs/ft, seems high for M6! oops, my mistake. It was 65 in-lbs!  I dont know what that is Steve, whats it in the other one, would have thought its 20ish |
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Post by bryan on Jun 1, 2013 15:59:16 GMT 1
Basket and 2 bushes arived today from Norbs.   Very nice bit of engineering. |
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Post by bryan on Jun 1, 2013 16:26:53 GMT 1
had look online and found 7.2lbs/ft, about the same as the clutch cover bolts.
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Post by bryan on Jun 4, 2013 21:20:46 GMT 1
After a bit of a think on how to press the new bush into the primary drive, I ended up using a clutch side crank web, however I will be trying to get a top had made up that will fit inside the bush to stop any chance of deforming it as Ive still got mine to do. I left the bush in the freezer for 2 days to shrink a bit, and was thinking of warming up the centre of the primary drive, but makes it harder to handle when pressing the bush in.  Local bike shop wanted about £45 to make one and press it in, however the bike garage who MOTd it let me use their press, last bit is pushing it through a little more with a 27mm socket so its central, as bush is a few mm narrower than the primary drive. |
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 7, 2013 21:13:52 GMT 1
Hi Bryan,
Did you finish rebuilding the clutch basket ? How did it all go ? Ordered the same from Norbo so will be doing mine soon, and would be interested in how yours went together.
Dusty
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Post by bryan on Jun 8, 2013 2:38:35 GMT 1
Yes I did, forgot I've not put anything more here but I started another tread as it was still dragging.
I went to the garage that dose my MOTs and used their press to fit the new bush and a 27mm socket to push it in a mm or so the centreline it in the primary drive. Bolted it all back together with Stud and Bearing fit and torqued them to 7.2. Ft/Lbs.
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