cuzza
Weekend rider
Posts: 56
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Post by cuzza on Apr 3, 2013 12:26:12 GMT 1
Hi All,
Purchased a 350 LC which has just been rebuilt but not yet run in, however there are a couple of things which need sorting before I begin.
When starting the bike it ticks over fast (4000 rpm) for a minute or two before dying also petrol coming from overflow on carb (choke side).
Rebored to +2.00mm (PTK027) but he has left the standard jets in.
The guy who rebuilt it has added extra oil to the mix for the first start which is causing smoke, however I intend to drain this out and apply straight unleaded before I start tinkering.
So guys and gals, any ideas before I start the checking process?
Or better still any local gurus near the Chester Le Street area who could have a butchers?
Cheers
Cuzza
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Post by skaterboy on Apr 3, 2013 17:20:31 GMT 1
Look at fitting a float valve kit and adjust the float height as per the hayes manual. It is best do both carbs at the same time as a good base to start from . 220 main 25 pilot
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Post by flames on Apr 3, 2013 17:49:57 GMT 1
and clean them out properly.do one carb at a time,or make sure you dont get the float bowls mixed up,only one has choke valve in it.
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Post by bare on Apr 3, 2013 18:06:43 GMT 1
Smoke is Good So is extra oil. Wayyy cheaper than pistons/bores.
Even after a run oil condenses into the crankcase, resulting in a fog bank during initial warmup. Get used to it :-)
Don't dump the fuel.unless it's overly old.
Also Always use Hi Octane.
Sounds like your Slides are sticking.
Mikunis are Crappy carbs imo They mostly all 'do that' when no longer new and/or pristine clean. Annual mikuni rebuild is clever, albeit a bit of a chore.
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Post by The Pirate on Apr 3, 2013 18:56:30 GMT 1
would love to be able to help as im just up the road from you,,, but sadly im a real beginner with these bikes  |
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 3, 2013 19:07:14 GMT 1
Look at fitting a float valve kit and adjust the float height as per the hayes manual. It is best do both carbs at the same time as a good base to start from . 220 main 25 pilot hold on, it depends which carbs are fitted, if they are 4L0 00 then 160/170 mains and 25 or 27.5 pilots, if the are 4L0 01 carbs then 220/230 mains and 22.5/25 pilots, also the needles are different so you need to check them as well First off, identify which carbs are fitted otherwise you'll have allsorts of fun and games getting it right |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2013 19:11:19 GMT 1
Well pointed out dave
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Post by flames on Apr 3, 2013 20:47:19 GMT 1
you also need to check which barrels you have fitted.if they have a 1 on them on the reed housings,they are the later ones.
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cuzza
Weekend rider
Posts: 56
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Post by cuzza on Apr 3, 2013 21:10:05 GMT 1
Look at fitting a float valve kit and adjust the float height as per the hayes manual. It is best do both carbs at the same time as a good base to start from . 220 main 25 pilot hold on, it depends which carbs are fitted, if they are 4L0 00 then 160/170 mains and 25 or 27.5 pilots, if the are 4L0 01 carbs then 220/230 mains and 22.5/25 pilots, also the needles are different so you need to check them as well First off, identify which carbs are fitted otherwise you'll have allsorts of fun and games getting it right Ok guys, I'll pull the carbs off tomorrow and let you know! |
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Post by copper99 on Apr 3, 2013 21:52:47 GMT 1
you also need to check which barrels you have fitted.if they have a 1 on them on the reed housings,they are the later ones. Another thing ive just learnt...what was the difference between the 2 (?) sets of barrels mate? |
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Post by flames on Apr 3, 2013 22:48:02 GMT 1
the erlia ones had probs with header pipes breaking.the pipes were modified,and at some point washers were used,then the later barrels did away with the washers,but jettings were different,and there were mods done to erlia carbs to sort a running issue.you need to work out which combination you have,to know which settings to use.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2013 2:24:12 GMT 1
Since you are in Chester le street might be worth your while joining the nerdoc club
That's north east r d owners club. Some great lads in there and they do a brilliant week end once a year
Just put it in your search engine
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Post by Norbo on Apr 4, 2013 8:41:54 GMT 1
Please make sure you put the correct flote bole on the correct carb they are not the same to keep a note on witch one came of with carb ,.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2013 10:53:48 GMT 1
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 4, 2013 12:42:50 GMT 1
you also need to check which barrels you have fitted.if they have a 1 on them on the reed housings,they are the later ones. Another thing ive just learnt...what was the difference between the 2 (?) sets of barrels mate? The later barrels have a larger exhaust outlet, 43mm (early ones), versus 52mm (later ones), the porting is also slightly different, not enough to worry about, but its worth noting, the biggest thing to note is the different exhaust outlet size as that ddetermines which exhausts gaskets you need I am running early barrels with later carbs !!! - it all works just fine ;D |
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Post by zxr59 on Apr 4, 2013 12:44:32 GMT 1
Hi you're close by me (Bishop Auckland) the Lc i bought a few years ago came from Chester le Street still not finished lost my job n run out of cash, anyway try the easiest solution first make sure slides aren't sticking and that they are in the correct carbs ie not crossed over. Good luck
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Post by flames on Apr 4, 2013 13:49:19 GMT 1
Another thing ive just learnt...what was the difference between the 2 (?) sets of barrels mate? The later barrels have a larger exhaust outlet, 43mm (early ones), versus 52mm (later ones), the porting is also slightly different, not enough to worry about, but its worth noting, the biggest thing to note is the different exhaust outlet size as that ddetermines which exhausts gaskets you need I am running early barrels with later carbs !!! - it all works just fine ;D i running later barrels with the erlia carbs,but with the internals from a later set.no idea why,thats how it came.ran like a dream till i got me mitts on it,and it pulled from tickover til past the redline with no flat spots. |
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cuzza
Weekend rider
Posts: 56
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Post by cuzza on Apr 4, 2013 17:48:59 GMT 1
Ok, checked the carbs and barrels today and can confirm the following-
Carbs are 4LO 01
Barrels are 1
Started it again today and after a couple of cut outs it ran at about 3500 rpm before a phut of smoke came from the right side barrels which would lead me to think that the guy who rebuilt it has not nipped them down enough........any guidence would be appreciated as I dont want to end up pulling it to bits for a simple fix!
Cheers
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2013 18:04:58 GMT 1
I torqued my head down to 23 lbs
did a couple of heat cycles and then retorqued
done nearly 200 miles of running in and had no issues
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Post by copper99 on Apr 4, 2013 20:40:04 GMT 1
Another thing ive just learnt...what was the difference between the 2 (?) sets of barrels mate? The later barrels have a larger exhaust outlet, 43mm (early ones), versus 52mm (later ones), the porting is also slightly different, not enough to worry about, but its worth noting, the biggest thing to note is the different exhaust outlet size as that ddetermines which exhausts gaskets you need I am running early barrels with later carbs !!! - it all works just fine ;D Thanks for that chaps... |
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cuzza
Weekend rider
Posts: 56
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Post by cuzza on Apr 7, 2013 20:42:56 GMT 1
Any advice guys before I go down the wrong route?
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Post by flames on Apr 7, 2013 20:47:47 GMT 1
have you re torqued head bolts yet?
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cuzza
Weekend rider
Posts: 56
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Post by cuzza on Apr 9, 2013 13:24:19 GMT 1
have you re torqued head bolts yet? Yeah, set the wrench to 17.4lb and all were OK (no tightenng required). Checked the sync on the carbs and the right hand pip does not register on the sight glass. Tried adjusting, however can not get it to retract far enough to show in the glass. The cables are new and fitted by the previous owner! Are the cables the same length? Any suggestions welcomed cheers |
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 9, 2013 15:37:06 GMT 1
if you fancy a drive you could bring it down to me, I am 83 miles according to Bing Maps from you !
I'd be happy to go over it for you and check everything that needs checking
anyway......
Have you checked the compression on the cylinders (125+psi) also do them dry and wet (oil down the barrels) and also warm (after the bikes run for a few minutes)?, also the timing etc? (2mm BTDC)
ALSO: if you take the slides out, put a dab of red paint in the recessed hole as that makes it easier to see when its in the window, if you suspect the cable, then hold the throttle fully open, if you can't see the tit on the slide, then pull that cable out of the connector block for that carb until you can see it, if you can't then it sounds like either you have the slide in the wrong way round, the wrong slide for that side or the cable is popping out of the slide top/retainer which can happen on worn slides
TBH, its hard guessing, but we can keep going through the checks, also have you checked for air leaks?
HTH
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cuzza
Weekend rider
Posts: 56
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Post by cuzza on Apr 9, 2013 18:34:20 GMT 1
Thanks Mutts if I had a van to transport it in I would be winging my way to you at the weekend!
I will have a tinker again on Saturday / Sunday and if no joy then I will have to bite the bullet and hire a van. Unless you fancy a jaunt and I'll cover the cost?
Have not checked for leaks or compression as I was hoping for an easy fix first. I dont think its that far away TBH just the correct setting up
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 11, 2013 11:28:27 GMT 1
if you get really stuck we might be able to sort somethig ojut, but it won't be this month as I am stacked out with work ! - which is sort of good and bad as it means I am busy, but too busy to ride my bike !
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cuzza
Weekend rider
Posts: 56
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Post by cuzza on Apr 11, 2013 13:48:24 GMT 1
OK Mutts I will let you know how I get on..........fingers crossed!
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Post by radian on Apr 13, 2013 0:44:48 GMT 1
What is the best replacement brake calliper for 4lo
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Post by Denzil on Apr 13, 2013 6:02:08 GMT 1
Hi Cuzzq, don't think the head is torqued down enough fella. I did mine to 20ib ft and it started to leak. I since took it back off sealed it GOP and bottom with yam bond then torqued in stages to max 25 ib ft make sure it is ib ft as some people get confused with neuton meters. No problems now did a couple of heat cycles now all good. If you can't adjust and see the pip in the carb window then it's likely you have a pattern cable.
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cuzza
Weekend rider
Posts: 56
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Post by cuzza on May 17, 2013 20:29:20 GMT 1
Well guys I'm totally pissed off now.
Took the bike to Armstrong Engineering to get MOT and carbs balanced and still do not have it back. First it was the plug and oil pump and now after calling today to check if its ready for collection I'm being told that the carbs are knackered. Apparently they are corroded where the main jet screws in to a point where the thread is exposed allowing fuel past?
Anyone heard of this as its a new one on me?
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