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Post by rwebster on Dec 7, 2012 12:07:51 GMT 1
im heading home tonight steve (maybe bloody big snow in amsterdam) so will give you a call next week sometime and i will have a run down to you with clocks.. hopefully i will have lc paintwork back by then will bring the tank and let you see my mates work
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 7, 2012 15:46:24 GMT 1
im heading home tonight steve (maybe bloody big snow in amsterdam) so will give you a call next week sometime and i will have a run down to you with clocks.. hopefully i will have lc paintwork back by then will bring the tank and let you see my mates work Look forward to seeing it, are you wanting to take the Lc2 bodywork away. Let me know and I'll dig it out the rafters. Steve
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smnasn
L plate rider.
Posts: 13
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Post by smnasn on Dec 7, 2012 22:55:13 GMT 1
Went for red 3000 satin in the end. Very good match to the un faded areas on the frame and the satin is good as the original paint was not too high gloss which can make them look too plastic opposed to paint. Very interesting, I was quite set on 3020 which is a bit brighter, so very much looking forward to seeing what you think of 3000 (and pics of course!). Good call on satin,will remember that.
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Post by rwebster on Dec 8, 2012 3:15:18 GMT 1
yes steve if you dig out bodywork i will take it away ..
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 11, 2012 10:44:48 GMT 1
Went for red 3000 satin in the end. Very good match to the un faded areas on the frame and the satin is good as the original paint was not too high gloss which can make them look too plastic opposed to paint. Very interesting, I was quite set on 3020 which is a bit brighter, so very much looking forward to seeing what you think of 3000 (and pics of course!). Good call on satin,will remember that. Was limited as they only stock 3 reds so unless you are having a lot done they won't get it in. A lot cheaper to use some thing they have. The Lc2 frame colour tends to fade over time and go a bit orange but luckily this bike has not seen a lot of daylight so is still quite dark. Will post pics when it comes back. Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 11, 2012 10:46:57 GMT 1
yes steve if you dig out bodywork i will take it away .. Will do rod, just back from Amsterdam late last night so will get it sorted. Belly pan in a bit of a state, has been damaged before as the top mounts have been fibre gassed as well as a patch inside. I do have a mint one needing paint I can do a deal on. Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 11, 2012 15:31:58 GMT 1
What a service, dropped off bits at powder coaters last Thursday and the called this morning ( Tuesday ) to say it was ready for me to collect. I had swayed back and fourth whether to use satin or gloss as I didn't want it to look like shiny plastic but wanted a sheen like the original so went for satin hoping it would not be too dull or that a polish on it would make it how I liked it. Knowing this the guy that does it took a gamble and used an old batch of gloss 3000 red as it has a shelf life and although you can still use it the age affects the finish. Well seems to have paid off as it is not too glossy and not satin but somewhere in between. Flash has bleached it a bit but you can see the natural colour at the headstock end. And swing arm and bits Best bit is they only charged me £80. Took along a brake pedal to get done matt black and was told it would be ready Thursday and that will be free Just goes to show giving repeat business works. Steve
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Post by kostas on Dec 11, 2012 19:06:40 GMT 1
Color looks great Steve,
I wish we had options here, you can either get red or black, give them a 3020 code and they look at you as the cow looks at a train that goes by!
Kostas
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Post by billy on Dec 11, 2012 22:36:25 GMT 1
Sweet! I love looking at freshly powdercoated frames.
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Post by rwebster on Dec 13, 2012 22:16:43 GMT 1
good deal there steve . just taken my stuff back from local powder coaters in forfar they had it for 4 weeks never even started it bloody waste of time !!! taken it to a place near dundee now . lc side stand , back part of lc frame and rd taillight brkt p/coat black blast lc pipes £50 and a weeks wait may bring my stuff to you next time lol
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 14, 2012 11:21:42 GMT 1
good deal there steve . just taken my stuff back from local powder coaters in forfar they had it for 4 weeks never even started it bloody waste of time !!! taken it to a place near dundee now . lc side stand , back part of lc frame and rd taillight brkt p/coat black blast lc pipes £50 and a weeks wait may bring my stuff to you next time lol I was going to say get your stuff back as if they have had it 4 weeks they don't really give a sh1t about your work. Hopefully you will be sorted now. Mine shuts today till new year so anything I have forgot will have to wait, was in yesterday so got the brake pedal back yesterday. Steve
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Post by rwebster on Dec 14, 2012 23:25:27 GMT 1
will try and get down next week with the clocks and will come to some arrangement on belly pan ..
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 16, 2012 16:59:37 GMT 1
Got an hour so went to have a look at the wheels. Original tyres good but 28 years old so changing them. Gave them a clean to see how they were before getting the tyres fitted tomorrow, knew the edges were ok so painting would not be an issue when tyres were on but think they don't even need paint. A bit of compound on the bare alloy and some polish on the black and they will be mint. Steve
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Post by billbott on Dec 16, 2012 17:05:11 GMT 1
Powdercoating looks ace and at £80 its a bargain. It cost me that just for a frame for the DT.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 19, 2012 15:58:40 GMT 1
New rubber on Hopefully start assembling Saturday. Still not decided on the fork seals, ordered a set just in case. Steve
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m1ke
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 399
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Post by m1ke on Dec 22, 2012 17:33:08 GMT 1
Do the fork seals.... Going on the weather today it's going to be at least March before you really want this thing near the road....
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Post by kostas on Dec 22, 2012 19:20:30 GMT 1
Yes mate, do the seals now ar you might regret it. I decided to do my seals and I cannot get the allen bolt on the bottom loose, Now I will have to use more muscle that might damage the fork finish, so Im glad they are not polished or painted yet
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 23, 2012 0:31:02 GMT 1
I know, I know. Been trying to kid myself but knew I would have to, especially as I was changing the oil as a matter of course so split them today fitted new seals and new oil. Here's the proof Been busy today. Out in Garage from 3 till 10.30 with only a quick dinner break, wife's away so making the most of it. Takes a long time re fitting all the bushes and seal to the swing arm and cleaning and painting suspension bits but made good progress. Had to paint the shock link as it appears to be originally some kind of black plating but had gone patchy but tie bars are original finish and fitted the stands. Put all the rubbers back on the frame, only one side panel one split so rest were fine. Fitted new taper head bearings, no point fitting the original balls even though nothing wrong with them they are superior. Yokes on and forks fitted. Bottom yoke had some marks but picked up an original olive one. Stripped and cleaned the shock, fitted a bump stop rubber as the old one had fallen the pieces and painted the retainers for the spring. Hopefully sorted for the foam around the adjuster, was hoping to get it up on both wheels but worth waiting to sort the shock. I'm knackered now and having a well deserved beer Steve
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Post by billy on Dec 23, 2012 13:30:29 GMT 1
Great job mate! If there was a smiley face that looked retardedly happy while clapping the hands vigorously, I'd use it right away, but unfortunately they don't exist.
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Post by kostas on Dec 30, 2012 19:33:22 GMT 1
Hi Steve, How did you put the rubber damper on? Did you cut and glue it back? The rubber is missing from my shock and the wheel had eaten thru the mudguard and the seat bottom. And where did you find the chain protector thing that goes on the swingarm?
Thanks Kostas
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 30, 2012 19:45:26 GMT 1
Hi Steve, How did you put the rubber damper on? Did you cut and glue it back? The rubber is missing from my shock and the wheel had eaten thru the mudguard and the seat bottom. And where did you find the chain protector thing that goes on the swingarm? Thanks Kostas Yes cut it with a knife then bonded back together with Q bond. Chain guide was still on bike. Check with a dealer, may still be available.Part number 29L-22151-00 Steve
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Post by steelerd on Jan 14, 2013 1:51:14 GMT 1
looking good mate keep it coming ^_^
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 18, 2013 16:14:45 GMT 1
Well been back at it. Got the shock back together but not 100% happy with the foam, got some nice red stuff from lcbott so will get round to that eventually but fitted just now so I could get the back wheel on so it now rolls about. Cleaned up the original chain, came up nice and seems good, had to fit it now as still one piece with no split or soft link. Airbox cleaned, new filter and fitted in frame Got round to the engine next, barrels painted, the rest cleaned and clutch cover dressed to get rid of the slight rash and powder coated. Nice new Yam disc ( awaiting new screws for it and PV caps ), oil and water seals. Seems strange to me fitting with original bolts rather than SS but new to this green olive thing. Barrels were masked and sprayed but did not want to baint the base nuts/threads so removed one at a time replacing with a plain nut and taping the thread and doing reverse once painted. Also swapped out the barrel drain bolts, just to re fit originals. Next stage is getting the engine in the frame and re fitting the loom and electrics. Steve
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Post by rwebster on Jan 19, 2013 11:38:00 GMT 1
looking good steve called my mate who is doing the bodywork he says it should be finished by the time i get home (28th jan ) so will get it delivered to you as soon as i can depends on weather of course as i beleive its bloody freezing and big snow grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr i hate cold
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 19, 2013 12:09:25 GMT 1
looking good steve called my mate who is doing the bodywork he says it should be finished by the time i get home (28th jan ) so will get it delivered to you as soon as i can depends on weather of course as i beleive its bloody freezing and big snow grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr i hate cold Good news on the bodywork, better get my finger out lol. Strangely just a dusting of snow at mine but bloody cold. Dreading the leccy bill from trying to keep warm working in the garage. Thought I had put a pic up of the front end, will get one on. Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 21, 2013 21:03:35 GMT 1
Another bit done, engine in. Handlebars and headlight bracket fitted Now looks like this Like it when I can see some progress and not just a pile of parts anymore. Steve
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Post by kostas on Jan 22, 2013 21:49:42 GMT 1
Bike looks very nice Steve, I have friends coming by to see the bike I rebuild and all I have after 3 months is a pile of parts, I can see the disappointment in their faces. You have to do this just to imagine the amount of work involved.
Keep it up!
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 23, 2013 17:13:27 GMT 1
Well been busy again, another 4 hours done so total time spent is 41 hours so far. Wheeled it out to turn round so done some more pics out in the light. Tie bars fitted. Can now see how the mounts broke, they were mounted at the bottom of the slots on the frame so looks like they were mounted there first then the bolts to engine done which really stresses the brackets. Even with them bolted at the top of the slots I had to undo all the engine bolts and plates to get it to line op then re do the bolts. Mine is not like this so must be the way the frame brackets have been done, jig must have been slightly out but just makes it. Oil pump fitted and tubed up As well as tank cleaned, fitted and filled with new oil. Like to fill things as I go so also filled the gearbox with oil and primed the pump. Next the carbs got stripped, mains, pilots and emulsion tubes removed and cleaned. Re assembled checking float heights. They were mint inside, floats set fine and emulsions clear. Only the slightest patch of crud in the bottom of the float bowl so was a bit of a waste of time but had to be done just in case. All back together and fitted to bike. Never knew there was a guide on the top shock mount for the oil tank breather tube and strangely although original the carb overflows are not long enough to go down to the guide on the bottom of the frame Think that's enough for now Steve
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Post by billy on Jan 23, 2013 18:13:00 GMT 1
Very nice. I kind of like that it's not 1 10% spot on resto job, more like a veeeery good clean-up/resto with a few small, insignificant dings in the paint. During my years with bikes, I've found that it's really no point making a bike 110% spot on (unless you're serious about showing the bike off at bike meetings and like to spend countless hours at cleaning/polishing it ufcourse), cos as soon as you take it for a spin, which is really the point with doing a rebuild isn't it (?), it'll look like s*it anyway from all the crap splattering all over the place. And then we're back at the cleaning/polishing process. Who in their right mind would do that agonizing cleaning process over and over and over, year after year, and never get tired of it? ;D I guess it doesn't _hurt_ to be extremely picky and do the rebuild so the bike is like 100% new, but me personally, I've kind of gone away from that obsession a little (at least on RD's). I'm still obsessed with having 100% perfect fasteners though. SS or original green doesn't matter, I like em' both.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 23, 2013 19:24:41 GMT 1
Very nice. I kind of like that it's not 1 10% spot on resto job, more like a veeeery good clean-up/resto with a few small, insignificant dings in the paint. Where's the dings in the paint? lol As the bike was one owner and genuine 3900 miles the idea was not to make it like a totally restored 100% redone bike with everything refurbished as new but to only refurb the bits that had rusted (frame and swingarm) and the bodywork which was damaged re painted. All the fasteners are still in original plating although some have some discolouration but no rust. Even a thrashed wreck can be restored to mint and the speedo reset to zero and the history is lost. Wanted this one to be obviously an original as possible special bike where you can see how well it was treated (apart from crashing it) The only actual bit that will be re plated will be the brake pedal which was rashed and rusted on the edge, all other plated parts are 100% original. Could have totally stripped, blasted and painted the engine but thought it was more important that the original bore motor was left unopened. Same with the fork lowers, would be easy to re finish them but would not be the same finish as original and there are only a few slight tarnish marks. Think they call it keeping some of the patina. Steve
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