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Post by daglad on May 1, 2012 19:46:05 GMT 1
So it's rebuild time and the questions are coming thick and fast so any help would be appreciated. Firstly, i have just dry fitted the oil pump, using a new seal. If i just push the pump through the seal i can turn it with the cog by hand, however, if tighten the pump to the case i cannot budge it. Is that normal or have i over tightened the pump.
secondly, i am rebuilding my forks, top and bottom bushes, do i fit the bottom bush, insert the slider then fit the top bush to the fork lower or is there some way of passing the bottom bush past the top one once fitted.
Oh ye one last question for now, i have just read some one used gasket goo on the base gasket is that right?
blimey just though of another one, someone told me to torque the head down before tightening the barrels to the cases, never heard of that again is that true as well
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 1, 2012 20:05:26 GMT 1
I usually do that with the head bolts.
Steve
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Post by mellow on May 1, 2012 21:21:55 GMT 1
RE Fork bushes.......oil bush and stanchion then fit bush onto stanchion ONLY opening it enough to slide it on! fit damper rod bolt. OIL top bush then slide down over stanchion and somehow drive it into lower leg. A large washer and length of tube should do  |
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Post by daglad on May 2, 2012 20:20:01 GMT 1
Cheers mellow, looks like my enthusiasm out stretched my ability (Not for the 1st time) I tried fitting them the other way round. Looks like i will ordering another set from Norbo  I think i have sorted the oil pump issue as well. How do you know if the pump is working once the engine is rebuilt and running preferably before the inevitable seizure. |
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Post by marsbar350 on May 2, 2012 20:34:16 GMT 1
i fitted clear oil lines.used a syringe to fill the lines from the pump end. bleed the pump.start bike.hold pump fully open.with the other hand,rev the bike to about 3k.you should see oil pulsing thru the lines to the pump  |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 2, 2012 21:28:28 GMT 1
Cheers mellow, looks like my enthusiasm out stretched my ability (Not for the 1st time) I tried fitting them the other way round. Looks like i will ordering another set from Norbo I think i have sorted the oil pump issue as well. How do you know if the pump is working once the engine is rebuilt and running preferably before the inevitable seizure. I also used clear lines and bled the pump but left the lines empty. Mix about a pint of premix ( no need if motor just rebuilt with loads of oil ) and start it and let it idle. You should see oil very slowly pulsing up the lines. Then still while idling pull the oil pump cable to fully open the pump and oil should move quickly through the lines. Steve |
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Post by daglad on May 2, 2012 22:26:30 GMT 1
Cheers guy's, why didn't i think of clear lines i will let you know how i get on, be a while yet though the motor is still about 10ft from the frame |
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Post by daglad on May 3, 2012 19:16:20 GMT 1
Anybody got any thoughts on my tight oil pump, if i tighten the pump to the case its hard to turn the cog but loosen it off a touch and its fine. i am scared if i dont tighten it up enough it will leak but if it do the teeth will sheer? My only thoughts are have i got the oil seal pressed in to far (is that even possible) and is it squeezing it out of round?
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Post by marsbar350 on May 3, 2012 19:25:36 GMT 1
have you got the shim fitted on the end of the shaft?
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Post by arrow on May 3, 2012 19:43:20 GMT 1
Have you got the flange gasket fitted to the pump ?
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Post by daglad on May 3, 2012 19:57:48 GMT 1
err, when you say flange gasket the one i have is the green paper type with a red ring on it, i think i could be pretty embarressed in a mo, it's the wrong gasket isn't it?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 3, 2012 20:45:17 GMT 1
Is the bush the drive goes through driven in properly and nothing stopping it going right in like powdercoat and is the shim on the end of the drive the correct one and does it turn better with the shim out.
Finally are you sure it is a 350 drive and pump and not a 350 drive ( 5 turns ) and a 250 pump. or vice versa.
Steve
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paulo
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 406
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Post by paulo on May 3, 2012 20:45:43 GMT 1
If my memory serves me right, that's the gasket for the water joint to the rear of the head.
My head gasket went after 400 miles, so now built up with a smear of blue gasket on everything including the base gaskets. 100 miles down the road and all is well so far (finger, legs and everything else crossed).
As for tightening down the head prior to the barrels, i hand tighten base nuts, fit head, nip down, tighten base, then torque down head. Leave over night and recheck again. Give the bike a good run 20 miles plus, leave to cool the retorque - never found the head bolts to move yet, but everyone swears by it. Also out with the plugs for a look too.
Best of luck m8 with the rebuild, thought i had mine finished last year, top ends been off twice since then. But ever time you learn a little more about the bike.
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Post by LC_BOTT on May 3, 2012 21:24:55 GMT 1
Something I did wrong when I rebuilt mine, was I had the plastic drive gear on the wrong way round, I 'think' from memory, it is slightly dished one way??
I had a very similar problem to you, and it wouldn't turn over very easily.
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Post by daglad on May 4, 2012 18:49:24 GMT 1
Just had an hour in the man lab and i have solved the riddle of the oil pump. I cleaned the casing up a bit more and bingo jobs a good un. More patience required me thinks |
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