kaz
L plate rider.
Posts: 20
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Post by kaz on Apr 18, 2012 19:09:46 GMT 1
The right hand panel on my RD250LC has a small crack at the top centre of the panel (obviously from having to pour gallons of two stroke oil into the oil tank) and double obviously done by a man, cos a woman would have taken much more care and attention!! lol To avoid having to purchase and respray a new side panel, can anyone recommend or know of a person who repairs plastic? Thanks guys, Kaz
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Post by mellow on Apr 18, 2012 21:27:24 GMT 1
yep i been practising and done a top fairing,side panel and tail unit. there is a guide by ravedaddy in thech section. If i can do it anyone can
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kaz
L plate rider.
Posts: 20
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Post by kaz on Apr 18, 2012 21:42:07 GMT 1
The right hand panel on my RD250LC has a small crack at the top centre of the panel (obviously from having to pour gallons of two stroke oil into the oil tank) and double obviously done by a man, cos a woman would have taken much more care and attention!! lol To avoid having to purchase and respray a new side panel, can anyone recommend or know of a person who repairs plastic? Thanks guys, Kaz its quiet easy kaz to weld the plastic but you will damage the paint. if it helps i can send you some plastic welding rods Foc you can look up plastic welding on the net and maybe do it yourself pm me if you want any Hi Butchers, That's great, thank you. Can I ask where you got your welding kit from? There's some on ebay, varying prices, not sure if you get what you pay for? Is it better going for a more expensive one? Would appreciate your thoughts on this one. Kaz
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kaz
L plate rider.
Posts: 20
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Post by kaz on Apr 18, 2012 21:50:10 GMT 1
yep i been practising and done a top fairing,side panel and tail unit. there is a guide by ravedaddy in thech section. If i can do it anyone can Thank you Mellow, am looking on ebay at welding kits as am gunna give it a go myself! Have a steady hand and eagle eye (well, two eagle eyes actually...when the other one gets in focus!). Will keep you posted with how it all goes. Kaz
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 19, 2012 8:09:05 GMT 1
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Post by mellow on Apr 19, 2012 8:48:31 GMT 1
I was bought this kit. There certainly is a knack with it to get the setting right for the thickness of plastic. I find it ok for thicker panels.It comes with a bag of round rods too. The soldering iron is good for thinner panels and more tricky smaller areas. good luck
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Post by LC_BOTT on Apr 19, 2012 9:07:39 GMT 1
How are you getting on with the hot air gun mellow?? I've done loads of panels now, including fairings and mudguards, not got the courage to get the hot air gun as I thought it would dissipate too much heat and distort the panel etc
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Post by rdstars on Apr 19, 2012 10:33:31 GMT 1
Cheap way and not messing up the paint is use Acetone on the rear of the crack, get a little bit of broken ABS mix it with a bit of Acetone to make your repair paste grind a small groove in the line of the crack and a little bit at a time add your paste.
The Acetone takes the ABS Plastic back to it's liquid form so once the job is done it is a one piece flexible back to how it was, as with a weld it is two parts with a welded joint.
Every panel on my Thunderace was broken and even the nose was in bits, repaired everything on there and not broken since, the repair cannot be seen and everything is as flexible as stock.
Just dont do to much at a time or you will melt all the way through to your paint. Acetone is penuts to buy.
do some research, google: Acetone lego abs fairing repair
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Post by mellow on Apr 19, 2012 22:56:31 GMT 1
How are you getting on with the hot air gun mellow?? I've done loads of panels now, including fairings and mudguards, not got the courage to get the hot air gun as I thought it would dissipate too much heat and distort the panel etc To be honest m8 i have found it to work best on the thicker panels until i can get the heat setting right. Yes it can put too much heat in but i have found that if you only put a small groove along the crack and not deep into it then the gun melts the abs rod nicely into it and melts it together very well and you do have to move it along quite quickly.practise needed
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Post by twostroker on Apr 22, 2012 9:33:42 GMT 1
x2 Q-BOND is what id use as its cheap, requires no specialist tools and is proven to work. in my 14 years in the paint/body repair game i can honestly say this is one of the best products ive used . my f2 top fairing was in 3 bits when i brought the bike and the repais is still perfect 3 years later with this stuff. plastic welding is ment to to be the more profesional method but its rarley used these days by body shops due to the fact plastic bumpers/panels are made of 4-5 different types of plastic and there never marked up stating what type of plastic and if you weld them with a non-matching filler rod you end up with weak repair which will just break when you re fit the pannel or bumper or at best 6 months later. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Q-BOND-ULTRA-STRONG-ADHESIVE-AND-FILLER-REPAIRS-TEN-SECONDS-/170780337256?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item27c34d2468
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Post by chamber66 on Apr 22, 2012 9:36:31 GMT 1
x2 Q-BOND is what id use as its cheap, requires no specialist tools and is proven to work. in my 14 years in the paint/body repair game i can honestly say this is one of the best products ive used . my f2 top fairing was in 3 bits when i brought the bike and the repais is still perfect 3 years later with this stuff. plastic welding is ment to to be the more profesional method but its rarley used these days by body shops due to the fact plastic bumpers/panels are made of 4-5 different types of plastic and there never marked up stating what type of plastic and if you weld them with a non-matching filler rod you end up with weak repair which will just break when you re fit the pannel or bumper or at best 6 months later. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Q-BOND-ULTRA-STRONG-ADHESIVE-AND-FILLER-REPAIRS-TEN-SECONDS-/170780337256?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item27c34d2468Is this a fiberglass type process where you reinforce with matting?
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Post by twostroker on Apr 22, 2012 21:27:38 GMT 1
chambers look at the ebay link,theres no fiberglass matting its simply a powder and a liquid that fuse together when put together
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Post by chamber66 on Apr 23, 2012 7:41:07 GMT 1
chambers look at the ebay link,theres no fiberglass matting its simply a powder and a liquid that fuse together when put together i was thinking of reinforcing the tabs on my tailpiece, but I think fiberglass may be a better option for this. Unless anyone has any better solutions?
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Post by rdstars on Apr 23, 2012 9:32:18 GMT 1
Fiberglass wont bond with ABS, you think it has but within time it will come away, like de'laminating.
All these kits on the market, some "magic" powder and "liquid".......ABS Shavings = free and Acetone ( or MEK ) couple of pound for huge amounts do exactly the same thing.
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Post by chamber66 on Apr 23, 2012 10:51:05 GMT 1
Sorry for the thread hijack.
So what is the best way to strenghten lugs?
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