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Post by deanord on Jan 31, 2012 23:32:10 GMT 1
righto, just rebuilding my F2, no chain on it at present just rolling chassis with the motor in etc. to get it running i've gone with premix, 25:1 but the oil pump is still connected (but empty). kicking away like billy with no joy.. Nice blue spark Compression measured (after a few kicks) at 7bar LH cyl, 8 RH cyl - is this any good? plugs getting wet with fuel, fuel tap doesn't leak and is left off when not cursing it! Battery good (new), Clocks not fitted (does this matter?). could anyone give me a few pointers please? I thought, with spark, fuel and compression it should just start..? Cheers in advance...
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Post by deanord on Feb 1, 2012 0:31:39 GMT 1
forgot to say - are those compression figures any good? Haynes book of lies doesnt suggest any figures...
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Post by tunneruk on Feb 1, 2012 13:45:22 GMT 1
I had the exact same with mine after I rebuilt it, kick kick kick, big blue spark and wet plugs. I ended up taking the flywheel side case off and spinning the flywheel with a socket in a drill. It fired up instantly and now goes straight away on the kicker from cold. I have no idea why it wouldn't start in the first place but it does now? I literally touched the trigger on the drill and alive she cried! If you've tried everything else you've got nothing else to loose by trying it?
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Post by mellow on Feb 1, 2012 16:31:26 GMT 1
mine was a bitch to start after rebuild,and still is when not used for any period of time I found turning the tap to prime for about ten seconds sorts it out and it starts first kick not that this will help you as u have fuel at plugs
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Post by deanord on Feb 4, 2012 10:39:33 GMT 1
Tunneruk - that could be the simple option!!!
Mellow - Tried that.. left it on prime till it overflowed from the carbs (a bit too long...)
Ravedaddy - interesting - how far from the generator cover is this 2 wireplug? and what colour wires are in it?
bloody thing!
cheers all!
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Post by deanord on Feb 4, 2012 10:40:39 GMT 1
I had the exact same with mine after I rebuilt it, kick kick kick, big blue spark and wet plugs. I ended up taking the flywheel side case off and spinning the flywheel with a socket in a drill. It fired up instantly and now goes straight away on the kicker from cold. I have no idea why it wouldn't start in the first place but it does now? I literally touched the trigger on the drill and alive she cried! If you've tried everything else you've got nothing else to loose by trying it? might be a daft question, but to do this is it clockwise or anticlockwise? :-) i sense a lazy option!
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Post by airbraker on Feb 4, 2012 11:33:42 GMT 1
If all else fails do what I do. Get a mate or your brother and run it up and down the road for 15 minutes and bump it in second gear. Always works for me !
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Post by mellow on Feb 4, 2012 12:04:17 GMT 1
the plug rave is on about is on the plastic tray under the tank on the right hand side m8 next to flasher relay
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Post by pepsisteve on Feb 4, 2012 23:02:17 GMT 1
its not flooded is it? whatever position you have the fuel tap on the carbs shouldnt overflow if the valve seats are working. disconect fuel supply, take plugs out and kick over the motor (with ignition off) 15-20 times, heat plugs up with a blow torch slightly to get them warm, put plugs back in but still leave the fuel supply disconected and see if it fires.
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Post by deanord on Feb 5, 2012 0:40:47 GMT 1
airbraker.. nice one! lol! mymates are too wise for that old chestnut - no chain besides!!
Mellow, cool - will check that - even tho i'm getting a good spark tho?
Pepsisteve - i did wonder that tbh, think it may be a carbs off and strip (again) after trying the wires rave mentioned first..
Bloody thing!
cheers all!
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Post by Delbert on Feb 5, 2012 10:04:49 GMT 1
I omited the fuel transfer pipe / balance pipe between the two carbs when i built mine ( had been apart for 6 years ) couldnt start it for love nor money . Put pipe on . First kick ! I assume the set up is much the same mines a 4lo
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Post by mellow on Feb 5, 2012 10:59:55 GMT 1
You mean the vacum pipe off of inside of right hand carb
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Post by mellow on Feb 6, 2012 0:13:59 GMT 1
yes rave im guessing they are
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Post by Delbert on Feb 6, 2012 0:34:08 GMT 1
You mean the vacum pipe off of inside of right hand carb Not sure your set up is the same as early lc .mine has a pipe that links the two carbs
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Post by mellow on Feb 6, 2012 10:49:32 GMT 1
yes there is a link pipe.but on an f2 there is a stub behind that pipe on the right hand carb.its the vacum pipe to open the fuel tap diaphragm
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Post by johnlc on Feb 6, 2012 11:13:21 GMT 1
Certainly should'nt come out of the overflow regardless of tap position ,try disconnecting fuel tap drying plugs off or new ones and kicking it over if its getting everything as you say it should eventually fire
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Post by deanord on Feb 7, 2012 1:01:09 GMT 1
Cheers fellas, I'm in the middle of moving house right now, think i can remember where the bike is(!)
You have me wondering about the link pipe now, cant recall if i have put it on...
In the workshop manual - RD350F2-1WT-86eng from rd350lc.net on page 20, is it part 32?
with my logical head on, i assume that without this pipe, all of the venturi effect is lost and little or no fuel goes to the cylinder??
I may have put a red herring in there by saying about the carbs overflowing - i'll confirm this in a day or two when i convince the mrs that the kitchen is fine as it is (you know what i mean fellas!)
cheers fellas, be back with you in a day or two
JD
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Post by deanord on Feb 7, 2012 1:02:20 GMT 1
oh, and the prize for guessing the fault... ? h'mm i'll think of that one!!
Maybe a box of used RD bits!
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Post by mellow on Feb 7, 2012 9:13:41 GMT 1
Page 20 Its on Page 12 section B13 Item 32
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richb
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 355
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Post by richb on Feb 8, 2012 14:40:53 GMT 1
When i rebuilt my 31k for the first time many moons ago it would not start for ages and as noted above I had not connected the little length of pipe between the two carbs. Put pipe on and she fired up straight away - never forgot to connect it since, daft how a little piece of tube can cause so much grief.
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Post by deanord on Mar 17, 2013 14:44:29 GMT 1
Progress! I rebuilt the carbs (correctly this time!) Things wrong included: needle height Air screw setting throttle slide stop float height.. so with all that refitted, reed valves adjusted to spec, i put it together and.... ... ... ... ... ... Verrroooom!! ;D she's running (albeit at 4000 rpm).. but it runs. so i rang a mate for ideas - he said " check the joint box in the aftermarket throttle cable splitter - they often dont seat correctly forcing the revs up".. sure enough - he was right. ring ding ding ding..... ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D for a bit anyway.. then screech! It wont kick over at all so thats something terminal. Strip down time (again)... So, the moral of the story is: when you rebuild your carbs, set them up properly!
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Post by deanord on Mar 17, 2013 17:44:28 GMT 1
May have found the source of the screeech.. my knowledgable mate suggested i look at the flywheel and check for magnets coming loose as he's seen it before.. Well, looks like it has.. but i havent got a flywheel puller here so cant pull it of to check. when rotating the flywheel and abviously the crank the noise is external to the engine, so with fingers crossed i hope its just what my mate says... will update more when i have it orf, the flywheel that is...
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