A few issues, 31K been sat a few years.

[robh]

Hi folks. I'm getting my 350F ready for use/mot and, sadly, most likely to sell. I've rebuilt/restored completely but despite it being in a more or less usable condition for the last 3 years I still haven't ridden it. The upshot is that it's sat on a ramp in my garage gathering problems, I've now got to resolve a few of these. I ran it a couple of weeks ago for the first time since I've owned it (about 9 years), it sounded superb and idled evenly.

The most mysterious (to me) is that 2T appears to be very slowly leaking from somewhere. It has new clear oil lines and clips, there is no leakage there. The oil feed pipe from the tank isn't leaking. It appears to be coming from the bottom of the reed blocks (?) new gaskets were fitted and correct torque used during rebuild. The only possibility I can come up with is that the oil tank gravity/pressure is gradually pushing oil through the pump and carb oil feeds, this is pooling around the reed blocks and finding its way out somehow. Any thoughts?

Next issue; the tacho glass has cracked. It was literally tapped gently by the brake master cylinder whilst I was tying it out of the way to make some adjustments, the result was a clear crack across the entire width of the glass! I have a spare tacho but this isn't perfect either. Is it possible to get a replacement glass only? Note this is the F model, not kidney clocks. I've seen some 80's FZR tachos for sale, are these identical? The problem is finding a good one for a fair price.

Another problem with the instruments; the 4 idiot lights look ok when not illuminated but the oil light appears to be cracked when the ignition is first switched on. Doesn't really bother me but if I'm going to eventually sell the bike I'd prefer to avoid haggling over minor issues. Any suggestions for a fix or replacement?

I put a small amount of fuel in an auxiliary tank (the original tank is bone dry and near perfect) in order to check that the engine ran properly. Fuel leaked out of the overflows almost immediately. I'm pretty sure I refurbed the carbs with new needle valves etc, maybe the seals have perished already? Perhaps the floats were wedged stuck?? Once the leaking stopped the bike ran perfectly. Obviously the vac line to the fuel tap wasn't in operation at the time, I'm trying to figure if that could have anything to do with it. I don't want to put fuel in the tank until I know the leak has been addressed.

Last one (until I find more!); Is anyone still producing replacement baffles for the original cigar exhausts? I've got a variety of old baffles, one which seems to be correct and 3 which are in various states of disrepair and damage, may have been from different models. I'd prefer to run with matching baffles. Again, suggestions appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any helpful advice.
RobH

[midlifecrisisrd]

May 2, 2022 11:48:12 GMT 1 robh said:

Hi folks. I'm getting my 350F ready for use/mot and, sadly, most likely to sell. I've rebuilt/restored completely but despite it being in a more or less usable condition for the last 3 years I still haven't ridden it. The upshot is that it's sat on a ramp in my garage gathering problems, I've now got to resolve a few of these. I ran it a couple of weeks ago for the first time since I've owned it (about 9 years), it sounded superb and idled evenly.

The most mysterious (to me) is that 2T appears to be very slowly leaking from somewhere. It has new clear oil lines and clips, there is no leakage there. The oil feed pipe from the tank isn't leaking. It appears to be coming from the bottom of the reed blocks (?) new gaskets were fitted and correct torque used during rebuild. The only possibility I can come up with is that the oil tank gravity/pressure is gradually pushing oil through the pump and carb oil feeds, this is pooling around the reed blocks and finding its way out somehow. Any thoughts?

OIL PUMP IS PASSING OIL VIA THE NON RETURN VALVES ON THE PUMP OUTLETS. THE CONSTANT OIL ON THE REED GASKETS SEEPS THROUGH

Next issue; the tacho glass has cracked. It was literally tapped gently by the brake master cylinder whilst I was tying it out of the way to make some adjustments, the result was a clear crack across the entire width of the glass! I have a spare tacho but this isn't perfect either. Is it possible to get a replacement glass only? Note this is the F model, not kidney clocks. I've seen some 80's FZR tachos for sale, are these identical? The problem is finding a good one for a fair price.

FZR ARE DIFFERENT AS TRIGGER IS NOT THE SAME. YOU CAN UNCRIMP THE GLASS AND CHANGE IT BUT A LITTLE TRICKY, BEST TO TRY AND FIND ANOTHER TACHO

Another problem with the instruments; the 4 idiot lights look ok when not illuminated but the oil light appears to be cracked when the ignition is first switched on. Doesn't really bother me but if I'm going to eventually sell the bike I'd prefer to avoid haggling over minor issues. Any suggestions for a fix or replacement?

ID LOOK FOR A REPLACEMENT IDIOT CLUSTER, TRY POSTING AN AD IN THE WANTED SECTION

I put a small amount of fuel in an auxiliary tank (the original tank is bone dry and near perfect) in order to check that the engine ran properly. Fuel leaked out of the overflows almost immediately. I'm pretty sure I refurbed the carbs with new needle valves etc, maybe the seals have perished already? Perhaps the floats were wedged stuck?? Once the leaking stopped the bike ran perfectly. Obviously the vac line to the fuel tap wasn't in operation at the time, I'm trying to figure if that could have anything to do with it. I don't want to put fuel in the tank until I know the leak has been addressed.

FUEL VALVES TEND TO STICK WHEN NOT IN USE. TAPPING THE FLOAT BOWL WITH A BIG SCREWDRIVRMER HANDLE USUALLY FREES THEM OFF

Last one (until I find more!); Is anyone still producing replacement baffles for the original cigar exhausts? I've got a variety of old baffles, one which seems to be correct and 3 which are in various states of disrepair and damage, may have been from different models. I'd prefer to run with matching baffles. Again, suggestions appreciated.

DROP NORBO A PM, HE MAY HAVE SOME

Thanks in advance for any helpful advice.
RobH

Hi

Comments added to your questions, good luck getting it all sorted 👍

Steve

[andy748]

I'll have a speedo/tacho glass in my bag of clock spares if you go the uncrimping route. Andy.

[robh]

Thanks to both for your replies.
Firstly, I'm a dumbass, it's not the tacho that's cracked, it's the temp gauge, I can't even blame it on drink just my ever ageing brain misfiring again.

On the whole doesn't sound too bad though. A bit of use might resolve the oil seepage and the float valves sticking.

I don't think I've made enough posts yet to qualify for a post in the wanted section. Will keep looking...

Cheers,
RobH

[midlifecrisisrd]

That's good news on the glass

Plenty of fz fuel gauges around to get a lens from

Steve

[reedpete]

Something often overlooked when the carbs flood is not the actual needle valve itself but the o ring around the needle valve assembly. They don’t seem to stand the test of time well and can allow fuel to pass around the whole needle valve not through it. Either way, whilst quite aggravating, like you said not a biggy once you have diagnosed exactly what’s happening.

[JonW]

Also depends on what you used to refurb the carbs, not all kits are equal.

Did Arrow refurb the pump? Im thinking not... thats what id be doing... and ditching the clear lines.

[robh]

Thanks again.
Oil pump hasn't been refurbed, is this considered mandatory? I'm curious; why ditch the clear oil lines? Apart from the non stock look I can only imagine them being of benefit?

Can't remember what I used to refurb the carbs, must be at least 6 years ago.

reedpete, yes I've had similar issues with leaking needle valve o rings before. I think the way the overflows were gushing it would have to be a stuck needle in this case though.

Norbo has sorted out some missing parts for me, I've now got a pair of Eazy breathe LC baffles. These need cutting down, can anyone tell me what the original 31K baffle length should be please?

Cheers!

[JonW]

Clear lines has been covered many times on here, have a search, short story is that they swell with heat and some are porous.

Carb fuel inlet needles are stick and will need a tap as has been said and if that doesnt help, whip em off and do it properly.

[stirling11]

Mandatory on the oil pump

It's a bit of a queue at the moment to get one serviced "Properly"

Once Arrow works his magic on your pump you'll never look back and you won't believe it's your pump when it does comes back

As Jon has said a lot of the clear lines do cause issues, the type of clip you have on them could well be a source of your issue, if it's a tie wire then they will suck air

If you use the genuine tube and genuine clips you won't have an issue, if you've ever tried to get the genuine clips off then you'll know what I mean, tighter than two fishes 4sses stuck together

And BTW you only need another 5 posts to open up the hidden sections, not hard to achieve either, just comment on a few threads and you're there

HTH

[robh]

Ok, understood. Two stroke oil isn't something to get wrong.

I miss the days when bikes were fit to ride if the puddle of oil beneath it wasn't too big and nothing important fell off (rider being least important).