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Post by urbantangleweed on May 4, 2022 12:43:12 GMT 1
All looking good so far Dusty.
I'm a big fan of rattle gun disassembly, to me it feels kinder on the fastenings as the multiple shocks help break any corrosion that's built up on threads. That's my theory anyway!
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Post by abar121 on May 4, 2022 13:53:51 GMT 1
Nice job Dusty. I've got a 4LO motor to strip down soon, so looking forward to getting stuck in. I've got a big Dewalt impact gun which I love. Got some impact sockets for that one. I use those 10/12mm to 1/4" hex nut drivers on a smaller impact driver for the wimpy stuff. Like this one, but with a 12mm too. www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-impact-hex-nut-driver-set-3-pack/3477d
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Post by dusty350 on May 4, 2022 20:23:44 GMT 1
Hi Chris, Yea it's great to have an Lc project again Hi Jon - will probably fit a new Mitaka basket and new rubber pucks but use the existing clutch pack as it looks like new. Hi Urban - I agree, and so much kinder than whacking the Granny out of the fixings with my old impact driver and club hammer !! Hey Abar - I was using my mates Dewalt impact driver the other day, screwing railway sleepers together. Unbelievable amount of torque created by such a small battery operated unit. Mine is nothing like the power of that ! And Shaun, had a new ball bearing in a bag, correct part number so it's deffo Lc; 20220504_200742 by dusty miller, on Flickr Hth Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on May 4, 2022 21:32:07 GMT 1
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Post by dusty350 on May 5, 2022 21:07:26 GMT 1
Removing the rest of the parts on the clutch side is straightforward enough. The rattle gun makes short work of the JIS screws, although some were really tight. The only casualty was one of the small screws that hold the tacho shaft retaining plate in place. It started to come out and then promptly snapped on me; 20220502_165900 by dusty miller, on Flickr Will come back to that in a mo. With everything removed, I removed all the top case bolts and lower case nuts, and split the cases; 20220502_162313 by dusty miller, on Flickr I removed and bagged up the gear clusters. Selector drum and forks look good; 20220502_163233 by dusty miller, on Flickr Crank was removed. Both outer bearings are quite noisy, and once side actually slides off the end of the crank !! 20220502_194312 by dusty miller, on Flickr With everything removed and bagged up, I turned my attention to the snapped fastener. I managed to file the bolt flat so I could get an accurate drill into it, and then opened it up for an "easy out". It was so tight, the easy out just wouldn't budge it, and I ended up rounding off the top of the tool; 20220502_175711 by dusty miller, on Flickr I ended up having to drill the remains of the bolt out. I couldn't retap to M5, so had to go to M6, but I'm gonna pop to see my welding guy, Glenn, in the morning and see if he can fill the hole with weld so it can be drilled and tapped to M5, which I would prefer. Once that issue is resolved, and the gearshaft bush mod has been done, the cases can go off for vapour, and I can then start rebuilding the bottom end Dusty
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Post by donkeychomp on May 5, 2022 21:17:46 GMT 1
Cool! The welder will be able to do that Dusty, probably for a pint or two. It's moving along quite rapidly!
Alex
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Post by dusty350 on May 5, 2022 21:24:09 GMT 1
It's only an M5/6 hole so I hope he can get enough weld into it to take a drill and retap. M6 would work, but the retaining plate holes are M5, and the plate is hardened so I cant open them out to M6, unless there is a special drill available. Would rather it be M5 though. Spoke to my engineering guy today, and he will sort the gearshaft mod once I have it - hopefully next week Dusty
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Post by shaunthe2nd on May 5, 2022 21:24:27 GMT 1
Hi Dusty, I also found that those little fckrs are the hardest to remove. Did you heat before rattling them? I ended up dremelling a grove in them, as deep as possible such that I could use a flat blade attachment to the rattle gun to pull them out. Little buggas!
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Post by dusty350 on May 5, 2022 21:28:44 GMT 1
That's what I did Shaun - cut a groove with the Dremel. It started to come out and I could see the threads were white with corrosion - the top bolt is in a blind hole so no oil around it like the bottom bolt. Plus it's small at M5 and doesn't take brute force like the bigger fasteners. The last Lc I did - the same fastener caused me grief !
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Post by dusty350 on May 5, 2022 22:03:22 GMT 1
The seller of the Lc sent the toolkit too; 20220503_171844 by dusty miller, on Flickr Think it's missing one part, but I think I have one somewhere - a chrome tube with a flat at one end ? Dusty
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Post by shaunthe2nd on May 5, 2022 22:07:12 GMT 1
Not sure you need the spoke spanner!
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Post by donkeychomp on May 5, 2022 22:20:56 GMT 1
I have one of those 10/12mm spanners! No idea where it came from but I've had it since I was about 18.
Alex
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 5, 2022 22:23:12 GMT 1
Can you not save the thread with a helicoil?
Reason I say that is I recently asked my welder if he could weld up an m10 hole in ally
He said not without drilling it out much bigger to get into the bottom of the hole
Got an m6 with the cross ripped out it to sort on the TR š
Steve
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Post by sidney81 on May 5, 2022 22:27:09 GMT 1
Hi dusty,thats a pig , allway's one !! I will tell you it will be a sod to get the weld that far down to fill that thread up ,you'd have to open the hole out to get deep in there! Not impossible ,when welding alloy on AC you don't get a direct arc so it's difficult to focus on a small direct area like getting to the bottom of a M5 thread ,I'm sure your man will sort it for you ,just not a easy one imho šš
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Post by dusty350 on May 5, 2022 22:32:45 GMT 1
That's what concerns me Steve - I cant see how he will get weld into the hole far enough, but will take it and ask. Certainly dont want to be opening it out any more. I think the M5 recoil insert would use a 5.3 drill, and this is at 6mm already, unless there is an insert that has a wider cross section needing a bigger drill ?
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Post by dusty350 on May 5, 2022 22:36:16 GMT 1
Hey Chris, thanks for your input. I dont want to make this a big job. An insert was my first thought, but with the hole already at 6mm, thought an M5 recoil would rattle around ! Is there a drill bit that will go through hardened steel ? That's the other option. Dusty
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Post by sidney81 on May 5, 2022 22:46:17 GMT 1
Hey Chris, thanks for your input. I dont want to make this a big job. An insert was my first thought, but with the hole already at 6mm, thought an M5 recoil would rattle around ! Is there a drill bit that will go through hardened steel ? That's the other option. Dusty if it's case hardened dusty you can heat it up cherry red let it cool then you will be able to drill it out ,I did this on my clutch basket back plate on the air cooled to countersink for the screws I used. Hope this helps
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Post by dusty350 on May 5, 2022 22:49:26 GMT 1
Nice one Chris, thank you. Worth a try
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Post by urbantangleweed on May 6, 2022 6:15:56 GMT 1
M5 TimeSert might sort that one out Dusty?
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Post by mouse on May 6, 2022 6:16:40 GMT 1
Thats looking very good on the whole. Toolkit is a fantastic addition, looks all completely genuine and even better when you see what people are asking for them!
Mouse
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 6, 2022 8:46:44 GMT 1
As said timesert or some other insert would do it
Its like an M8 sleeve with an M5 thread in the middle
M6 is probably the easiest option
Steve
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Post by urbantangleweed on May 6, 2022 11:00:26 GMT 1
As said timesert or some other insert would do it Its like an M8 sleeve with an M5 thread in the middle M6 is probably the easiest option Steve Time Sert also do a wider version called Big Sert for properly butchered threads, but there may not be enough material for one of those in this situation.
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Post by oldbritguy on May 6, 2022 12:25:39 GMT 1
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Post by dusty350 on May 6, 2022 19:51:11 GMT 1
Thanks for the info and links guys Took the cases to the engineers today. Weld wont be an option - I'm not risking opening up the hole further. I need to see if a Timesert for a 5mm bolt will fit in a 6mm hole. My fella echoed what Chris said about heating the hardened plate up to cherry red, and then maybe a cobalt drill may have a chance of drilling through but that will be the last option. Would be nice to have both bolts at M5 if possible. I left the bottom case with them so they can reem the gearshaft hole and press in the insert. Hope that comes back next week, and then it's off to Jamie for vapour blasting Dusty
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Post by urbantangleweed on May 6, 2022 20:46:36 GMT 1
I can post my M5 Time Sert set to you if you promise to send it back....
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Post by dusty350 on May 6, 2022 20:48:54 GMT 1
That's a very kind offer, but I wouldn't ask you to do that. Thanks anyway. Do you know what size drill you need if fitting an M5 insert ?
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Post by urbantangleweed on May 7, 2022 17:28:24 GMT 1
That's a very kind offer, but I wouldn't ask you to do that. Thanks anyway. Do you know what size drill you need if fitting an M5 insert ? If you've already gone to M6, unfortunately it looks like it'll be too big for an M5 Time Sert now, the drill in that kit is only slightly over 5mm (measured with digital verniers it's about 5.2mm) and the M5 inserts are less than 6mm OD.
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Post by dusty350 on May 7, 2022 22:33:03 GMT 1
That's as I thought, Thanks for checking for me Dusty
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Post by jon on May 8, 2022 8:56:17 GMT 1
Maybe too big for an off the shelf insert? Why not get a bespoke one made?
Iām fairly sure an M5 thread through the middle of an M8 bolt would do the job? Insert it with loctite and dremmel to length once set.
Jon
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 8, 2022 10:19:47 GMT 1
Did think similar but I went way over at m10 š¬
Plugged, milled flush then redrilled
Personally I'd just use the m6 screw, open out the plate hole and maybe reduce the head diameter of the screw
Steve
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