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Post by huggy76 on Feb 15, 2022 20:13:44 GMT 1
The thread title is hobby lathes. Is this really your hobby workshop and not a business? If so, as said I’m super jealous. Jon No your correct Jon, it is my work not hobby but thought as Dave had put his up I might get away with it too and let’s face it we all love a workshop picture😊
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Post by muttsnuts on Feb 15, 2022 20:33:37 GMT 1
yeah be careful, mine started off as a hobby and look where that landed me !
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Post by JonW on Feb 16, 2022 2:35:15 GMT 1
This is what ive been reading, it relates to my lathe of course being written by Hercus, but there are very few specific Hercus things in there really. I reckon its a decent grounding for those who are just starting out and certainly those using an older lathe, for the following reasons: 1, Its not too long, only 56 pages and a bunch of them are tables and an index at the end lol Perfect for us older ADHD sufferers lol 2, the language is pretty easy to understand 3, the descriptions are not long winded and it makes you think, 'i can do that' rather than 'oh gawd! that sounds hard and not at all fun...' 4, They had the Apprentice firmly in mind you can tell lol. All up I think it is quite a good read anyway as it has quite a lot of good ground work for general lathe use like setting the lathe up and how the cutting tools work, how to cut threads, info about chucks and materials etc etc. www.opensourcemachinetools.org/archive-manuals/Hercus_TextBook_of_Turning.pdf
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 17, 2022 18:46:59 GMT 1
About 12 years ago I bought a Halifax 524 lathe, circa 1947, off a mate at work, for 150 quid, It had been refurbed by another mate/colleague of ours. It weighed a ton and I had to reinforce the shed base where it stood ! I never used it once, and sold it when I realised I was unlikely to use it in the near future ! Big mistake I bought Yamarks old Clarke CL300 when he upgraded last year. This is a bench top hobby lathe, and better suited to the space I have. I have no experience of lathes, apart from school which was a long time ago now, but I've turned up a few spacers and adapted others. Great little lathe as long as you aren't doing anything big. I need to get some better cutting tools, and I've bought a 4 jaw chuck and a drill chuck for it; lathe 002 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20220217_162231 by dusty miller, on Flickr
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Post by JonW on Feb 17, 2022 23:22:41 GMT 1
The Halifax is very similar in design to my Hercus which is a licensed (Sp... its American after all) copy of a South Bend. They are indeed seriously heavy
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Post by JonW on Feb 18, 2022 7:09:14 GMT 1
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Post by JonW on Feb 23, 2022 3:54:45 GMT 1
Yesterday I fitted one of these switches to my lathe as I slowly work my way though the small jobs to get it running again. The wiring was a bit of a gamble as while there is nothing supplied with the unit there is plenty of info online, including some videos where they do it wrong and get corrected in the comments lol The issue is that the switches are subtly different to eachother even when copies of others. Mine is the 5 pin, which I didnt need but can be made to work, as its the most plentiful on ebay. 4 pins are simpler and you dont need to jumper the skinny 5th pin to get the green switch to stay 'on'. Initially i had the Emergency switch wiring wrong, one side is NO and one is NC (normally open or closed). This means that if you choose the wrong side then the switch works opposite to what you want/expect. Easily fixed and even easier to work out as my switch has clear sides so you can see where the connectors orient when the switch is used. All in all a good addition to any bit of workshop equipment, not least as these are NVR (No Voltage Release) so if the power goes down for some reason they switch off and dont start back up when the power comes back on. Extra safety is useful at our age lol The good news is that with it wired up correctly the motor leapt into action and runs smoothly and quietly up to the flat belt drive pulleys.
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Post by JonW on Feb 23, 2022 3:56:18 GMT 1
Next up... Quick Change Tool post... Im thinking one of the copies of the AXA size wedge style. Thoughts Gentlemen?
(and yes... I do still need to find a flat belt...)
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 23, 2022 9:25:21 GMT 1
I've retrofitted both the lathe & the mill with Chinese 240V 3 phase motors & VFDs. The VFD's can take an optional external pendant, so I've made these up with backwards / forwards switches and speed control etc. I also fitted a "jog" control to the mill, for when I'm using it as a drill press. The mill has an emergency stop button, but I didn't bother with the lathe, as it has a clutch in easy reach.
I have the T37 sized QCTP on the S7. I made a further 12 tool holders, the dovetails were a proper pain on my old mill, would be much easier now. The trouble with the myford is the lack of height difference between centre of the lathe and the top of the compound. So I have milled the bottom corner off the tool holders to allow them to hang below the compound a few mm, so 12mm tools are now possible, but only if the QCTP is square on the compound. Every bit helps.
If lottery win happens any time soon, I'd go for the multifix style of QCTP, but the holders and spendy, and not easy to make your own.
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Post by JonW on Feb 23, 2022 12:48:54 GMT 1
The VFDs looked interesting when i looked, but quite spendy for me.
When I was looking at tool posts, in my travels on various fora I saw people with the Myfords saying they were struggling with the height on the QCTPs. Luckily my 9" seems to be about right for the AXA size - Ive measured. phew.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 23, 2022 13:03:33 GMT 1
I used a 1ph 240 - 415 3ph converter for my lathe so it still has the original start/stop and no volt circuit. That along with the worklight which (well it will be when I reconnect the starter circuit)
Also allows the original fwd/rev/off switch to be used
The mill came with a 240 3ph VFD so soft start and speed control. I will need to fit an emergency stop button to it just to be safe
Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 23, 2022 13:05:39 GMT 1
Don't know much about tool posts as mine came with a qctp and 2 holders.
What I have worked out is that the bigger tools are a lot more expensive.
Reckon if working on alloy you don't need a 12 or 14mm tool. 10mm is a lot cheaper
Steve
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Post by steven on Feb 23, 2022 14:35:42 GMT 1
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Post by steven on Feb 23, 2022 14:36:26 GMT 1
... jings, that was a big link. :-0
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 23, 2022 16:42:57 GMT 1
... jings, that was a big link. :-0 Lol Cost not a major issue to replace the odd worn tool but at the beginning when you are having to buy them all it all adds up. A 10mm tool being £5 cheaper than a 12mm helps I won't be making my own tools lol Funny what you say about carbide bits. I bought a cheapo chinky set of carbide bits and the parting tool chipped while cutting alloy. That's why I bought some HSS tools which worked brilliantly on it Steve
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 23, 2022 17:08:39 GMT 1
I grind the odd HSS tool, for one off speciality jobs, but otherwise I'm on indexable carbide tips. I need to make a trepanning tool - for brass, not my head. I'll do that in HSS.
I buy the inserts from aliexpress 10 or 20 at a time. Long wait, but cheap enough to not matter. They're not Kennametal quality, but sharp enough to begin with and cheap enough to use as disposable items.
10mm tooling is not that rigid, compared to the bigger stuff, but then again we can't take huge depth of cuts with these little lathes, so does it really matter? I have a couple of 12mm holders for when it does, and with the corners cut off the toolholders I can use 1/2" HSS, of which I seem to have a lot.
The lathe I used at night school 15 years ago or so, took 1" tooling and easily cut chips that looked like quavers. I seem to remember taking 1/8" cuts, so reducing the diameter by 1/4" at a time in some stainless bar stock. Nice piece of kit, but a many horsepower 3 phase motor.
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Post by JonW on Feb 23, 2022 23:14:57 GMT 1
I buy the inserts from aliexpress 10 or 20 at a time. Long wait, but cheap enough to not matter. They're not Kennametal quality, but sharp enough to begin with and cheap enough to use as disposable items. Any links at all for these?
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 23, 2022 23:28:37 GMT 1
I buy the inserts from aliexpress 10 or 20 at a time. Long wait, but cheap enough to not matter. They're not Kennametal quality, but sharp enough to begin with and cheap enough to use as disposable items. Any links at all for these? EG www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=carbide+inserts
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Post by JonW on Feb 24, 2022 0:04:09 GMT 1
Cool, thanks for that. Idly i came across these the other day, very pretty... and part way down the page it had a photo of a whole load of cool shapes of the tips they sell... it reminded me that i really am very new to this lol. www.ebay.com.au/itm/283557734812?hash=item42055ba99c:g:kp8AAOSwR6VdNxOuI do love to learn so im enjoying watching videos and reading around this subject. Im not afraid to admit that im so green that i only just found out about using the back gears and pulling the bull pin on my lathe... I had no idea! er... Luckily id not just messed with it and pulled the lever and engaged both the gear sets at the same time by leaving the pin engaged! ...which is also good as I had messed with that lever and found it locked the lathe up so I assumed it was some kind of stop - idle hands and all that lol. Lucky really that I dont have a drive belt yet lol Perhaps i should leave that a bit longer and work out some more of its functions.
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cnkxu1
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 392
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Post by cnkxu1 on Feb 24, 2022 3:01:42 GMT 1
Lucky really that I dont have a drive belt yet lol Perhaps i should leave that a bit longer and work out some more of its functions. Could you use a ribbed flat belt from a late model car. Measure what you need and have a search at supercheap or repco. example: 06 WRX AC belt is 4PK895 - 4 ribs 895mm long..
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Post by JonW on Feb 24, 2022 4:47:41 GMT 1
Lucky really that I dont have a drive belt yet lol Perhaps i should leave that a bit longer and work out some more of its functions. Could you use a ribbed flat belt from a late model car. Measure what you need and have a search at supercheap or repco. example: 06 WRX AC belt is 4PK895 - 4 ribs 895mm long.. Good call Chris. In fact Ive just come back from my mates Subaru workshop with a brand new old stock ribbed belt he acquired in a box of old stock from a closing down Jaguar service place over the road. Its very long (enough for 3 goes!) and Im hoping to chop and lace it and see how that goes. I'll report back
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Post by JonW on Feb 24, 2022 7:16:36 GMT 1
Ok, this is what i ended up with... Its reasonably pretty from that side, the outer side is not something anyone would be proud of lol. But it held together and I a spinning chuck. I even upped the drag on it and engaged the gears so the lead screw was turning and then moved the lever so the saddle did the work. Lots of drag and its still in one piece. I cant upload a video it seems, but it runs! I even chucked up some rod i had lying about here and figured id cut with the tool that was left in the tool post and see what happened.... {drumroll} {voice of Doug Marcaida*} "It will cut!" Ok, so this half-arsed laced belt wont last forever but it proves the lathe works and will get me started for when i can source something better. It was free and I already had the stainless lockwire, I bought it in the early 90s lol * - Ok? you really dont know who he is? wow... No Forged in Fire fans here then lol
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Post by JonW on Feb 24, 2022 8:03:58 GMT 1
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 24, 2022 9:36:55 GMT 1
If I had my time again, I'd go for some of the square insert tooling, as you get 4 goes before it's scrap.
I have quite a lot of triangular ones, so 3 goes for the cash.
The long thin diamond shaped ones are good for getting into tight places, but 2 goes & it's in the bin.
My parting off tool uses 1 shot blades, and they don't last long, the double ended one above looks like a better idea.
If you crash your lathe, either by taking too big a cut or running the tool post or similar into the chuck, something needs to give, or you'll break something expensive. So a joined belt, not too tightly tensioned isn't a bad thing whilst you are learning your new lathe. My Myford has a habit of loosening the nuts that hold the 1/2 nut operating lever in the off position, so now and again the carriage sets off towards the chuck on its own. I'm in the habit of checking after using it that they are still tight, but it caught me out a time or 2 when I first got it. One day I'll fix it....Maybe.
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Post by cb250g5 on Feb 24, 2022 9:39:52 GMT 1
Looking good. If that is a screw on chuck, you need some way to lock the spindle to unscrew if. The myford has a pin that locks the spindle, just for this job. On my old Harrison I used to have to engage back gear without pulling the pin on the bull gear to lock it up. This never seemed like a good idea to me, but that's all there was.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 24, 2022 10:27:18 GMT 1
It lives! 😀
Steve
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Post by brigitte on Feb 24, 2022 13:16:43 GMT 1
Biggest mistake I've made is pushing buttons on the dro which I don't have a manual for and feck knows what I've done 🤣 There is no "reset" button on these!
Edit: I missed the "DRO" part, where the D stands for "digital".
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lc2
Weekend rider
Posts: 84
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Post by lc2 on Feb 25, 2022 15:24:52 GMT 1
I have a Hobbymat MD65 bench top lathe, more than capable small jobs like bushes etc plus thread cutting. A good little lathe and can had for relatively little money.
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Post by stusco on Feb 25, 2022 16:58:28 GMT 1
The first thread i cut as an apprentice was a double start left hand acme thread on the end of a crankshaft i had just made 😁could i do it now not a chance
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lc2
Weekend rider
Posts: 84
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Post by lc2 on Feb 25, 2022 19:08:16 GMT 1
The first thread i cut as an apprentice was a double start left hand acme thread on the end of a crankshaft i had just made 😁could i do it now not a chance I often chicken out and hand crank the lathe when thread cutting, especially with short threads 🤣
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