whats the better ?

[kevrd200]

out of the 3 models witch is the better and more sort after m1 /2 or 3

[fubars]

Depends on your personal preference for me it's the MK1 that's what I grew up with I don't like the other styles/colours. Others will no doubt feel the same about the later ones.

[brigitte]

I like the style of the MK1 too. And its nice that I don't have to bend down to reach the clip ons on the newer models.

[broughton]

as said above personal preference,i think the mkk 3 cdi units tended to fail after a while,but they where a very well built bike.

[yamman1066]

mk1

[guiri]

I think they all look the dogs bollox..

[abar121]

AR125 with a Gianneli pipe.

Actually it wasn't but that's all I had back then. Had a friendly tussle with a DT125LC and RD125LC on the A40. Flat out for miles, the DT was no where, but the LC trickled past.

The MK1 is the RD that most people remember / had, at least over here. If I was going to have one now, it would be a big bore Mk3 working YPVS.

[Norbo]

I prefer the MK2 but then my first bike was a MK2 But putting aside personal preference as a bike it makes no difference they all seem to sell for the same price no matter what it is its al down to condition not model

[museumman]

The subtle 'upgrades' to the MK2/3 are all genuine improvements that you would see people do if Yamaha hadn't done . They are sensible mods on other bike scenes.

I've ridden both back to back this month for testing and some videos, literally jumping on one to the other. The Mk1 is more comfortable purely due to the raised bars and wheel height , it feels more like a classic. (in a good way as it still holds its own in performance)
The Mk1 is 1 tenth quicker over 1/8 mile standing, than a working YPVS due to the heavily baffled exhaust on the valve. If you disconnect the valve's servo so it stays open, you lose a tenth when the revs drop into 3rd and 4th (to compare to a UK MK3 with no servo) . The UK MK1 and MK2 should perform the same (same motor and exhaust) . I think they have slightly different ignition curves though.  

On the ypvs change the pipe for a cheap Gianelli with a new Cdi and the valve goes 0.3 quicker (if you think this is nothing, a full fairing gains 0.2 and we're only talking about 1/8 (200 metres) , proving the exhaust holds it back.
I've now gone 1 second quicker on the valve using another European pipe matched to an Ignitech. (barely any work). I need to test the same mods on the Mk1 before I can really determine the best mods for the money.

I sell a few bikes on ebay per year. The MK1 always have 3 times as many watchers and more questions/general interest. Mine are all imports though. Unfortunately a few nut cases who are well known, have purposelessly created a stigma against imports. So those "genuine UK bikes" (that have all been saved by imported parts) are currently in more demand. I would say for an investment keep hold of a MK1 in as original condition as possible. Standards are very very low on this scene though. Every man and his dog thinks they're worth 4-5 grand just by scraping them through an MOT. Realistically, expect to half rebuild those examples to make them worth anywhere near that. Don't be fooled by just a nice paint job. 
I've seen heavily grooved front brake discs, oval rear drums, rear shocks with no rebound, all on bikes asking top money. 

As for the idiots creating a stigma towards the imports, not a word of it it true. They actually claim to be friends with Norbo and Paul Dawkins who undoubtedly receive a boost from import bikes, so the lack of awareness right there speaks volumes.