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Post by hollo on Sept 26, 2021 23:00:28 GMT 1
Hello all ,
This is a bit of a strange one , and I've no idea where to start , I wonder if anyone could point me in the right direction ?. What happens is that especially from cold it coughs and then cuts out when pulling away , which can be a bit iffy on junctions . I don't think it fuel related at it just stops dead , which makes me thing it an electrical problem . Also once it's cut out, it easily kicks back into life no problem , which again makes me think it's not a fuelling problem . I think it's getting worse as the first time it happened , I just though the engine was still too cold to take any load when pulling away . However today I made sure it was properly warmed up , and as soon as I've let the clutch out and put the engine under load to pull away , it will cough and then just die , and as I've said it easily kicks back into life on the first kick. After doing this 4 or 5 times and I eventually get to pull away the weird thing is that once warm , the problem seems to go away. It may be my imagination but I'd also say that it seems a bit flat and not as crisp as usual , but that could just be me. It's been running really well this summer , it's running banchee coils , and a battery eliminator which I had fitted for years. Could an electrical problem only happen when cold and pulling away ? I've no idea where to start to try and find what knackered and how to fix or replace it , and thoughts or suggestions would be welcome.
Thanks Mike
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Post by rigga on Sept 27, 2021 6:29:12 GMT 1
Blocked pilot jets normally cause issues like this.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Sept 27, 2021 8:44:32 GMT 1
As above, partially blocked pilots
Steve
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Post by hollo on Sept 27, 2021 20:39:20 GMT 1
Thanks for the replies , I didn't know that a carb problem could cause the engine to stop so suddenly . Not being that confident and never having looked at my carbs before , I presume that they have to come off , or can I attempt to attack the pilot jets with them in situ ?. Or possibly plan B have a go at taking them off and send them to someone who can professionally clean carbs.
Thanks again for the pointer Mike
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 27, 2021 22:38:57 GMT 1
I have heard stories of people disconnecting and swivelling 90 degrees to get to the pilots, but I always remove the carbs. If they not been off for a while I'd also consider removing the brass balls and cleaning the air correction circuit at same time. Causes all sorts of running problems. Plenty of info on here about that if you do a search.
Changing/cleaning the jets isn't difficult, cleaning the air correction circuit a bit trickier but doable. If you are not confident, then send them off or see if someone local is happy to help you out. Where are you located?
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Post by reedpete on Sept 28, 2021 8:47:59 GMT 1
If you want to have a happy relationship with an old stroker then pulling the carbs and cleaning the jets, (pilot in particular) needs to become as familiar as checking the chain. If the carbs haven’t been apart in recent memory then all manner of mischief is likely!
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Post by rigga on Sept 28, 2021 11:13:01 GMT 1
You can remove the Carb slides, fuel pipe, depending on length, and release the clamp to the inlet, swivel the Carb to access the float bowl, remove and blow out the jets, but as said, once you get used to it, its not much more time to fully remove the Carb, and clean it properly.
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Post by hollo on Sept 28, 2021 20:20:07 GMT 1
Thanks for the replies and help . I must be lucky as I've had my LC for about 12 years now it's always ran nice and crisp , and have never had to have the carbs off - hence my slight hesitation at trying to do it for the first time . I think that my biggest concern is getting 1/2 way though and then having a problem. I'm in Maidenhead in Berkshire if anyone would like to help me out ? , if not I'll have a go at getting them off and sending them to a professional, as if I can get them off I may as well go the whole hog and get them completely cleaned/refurbed.
Mike .
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 28, 2021 20:23:54 GMT 1
After at least 12 years they probably due a good clean and service over the winter. I'm miles away unfortunately, but hopefully someone closer will help.
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Post by reedpete on Sept 28, 2021 21:16:07 GMT 1
Mike, pull them off, have a go. If it all goes pete tong I’ll come over.
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Post by hollo on Oct 21, 2021 18:17:16 GMT 1
Update time - I've took the bike to a local-ish bike shop and he had the carbs off for a clean and refresh , he also changed the plugs as they were looking very oily after the rough running . The carbs were dirty with partial blocked piolet jets. However my original problem is still there . So when I pull away from stone cold , it just cuts out , it will do this several times . It will easily kick back into life , once warm it's fine and with cleaned out carbs it now flys. Anyone any ideas what electrical problem would cause this , but only happen from stone cold ? - I'm thinking CDI , coils , stator , ignition switch or kill switch , so basically anything which help produce a spark - but I've no idea where to start . I've got banchee coils fitted a few years ago now, has anyone every heard of them giving problems ? Thanks mike .
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Post by arrow on Oct 21, 2021 18:44:46 GMT 1
It cuts out from STONE cold, but once warm its fine.
I'm failing to see a problem here. If you don't warm it up a bit before pulling off then you may need to reach down and apply the choke to keep it running. A common, daily practice, back in the day when late for work!
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Post by hollo on Oct 21, 2021 20:33:06 GMT 1
No , once started I let it idle without choke for a while so it's ticking over nicely - I'm not an animal . As I've said I had the bike over a dozen years and this is defiantly a new problem. It should not just cut out when trying to pull away, I've lost a bit of confidence in it , as I don't want it to cut out on a busy junction. I'd of thought it just a worn electrical component , as after all some are 40 years old . It's just a very weird intermittent problem which I don't know where to start.
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Post by arrow on Oct 21, 2021 20:43:27 GMT 1
Ok. When we are trying to help each other on here we can only go on what's posted, ie we are not with the bike and the issue. You did use the term stone cold that's all. And to me that means just that. Slightly warm is a different state.
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Post by charles13 on Oct 21, 2021 22:24:04 GMT 1
It cuts out from STONE cold, but once warm its fine. I'm failing to see a problem here. If you don't warm it up a bit before pulling off then you may need to reach down and apply the choke to keep it running. A common, daily practice, back in the day when late for work! I have the same swingarm so I am going to be taking my frame and swingarm to a local guy in Trenton who builds frames and has jigs to check alignment. I will pass on this info to him, thank you Charlie
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Post by puddy on Oct 21, 2021 22:49:10 GMT 1
My battery is dieing on my lc , but normally starts ok even when the idiot lights only come on dimly. Recently noticed the bike is cutting out cold , running on 1 x cyl etc until revved down the road a bit. So last night , hung a charger on it for an hour and then she fired up absolutely petfectly , revved up clean as a whistle. I would check coil voltage from cold with a multimeter is my advice. Puddy
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Post by 4l04ever on Oct 22, 2021 9:21:37 GMT 1
Hi Mike
The carbs are not too bad to get off, but sometimes need a bit of brute force! I run the carbs dry before taking off. I then undo the lids and take out the slides. You can undo the front and rear clamps, so the carbs can rotate, then you can get the short choke joining pipe out. I then push the carb backwards into the airbox just enough to get the front edge out of the inlet rubbers, and rotate the front end out.
If you run an oil pump, you would also need to remove the oil feeds, but always run premix, as it is quicker to get the carbs on and off :-)
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Post by jjwalsh on Oct 30, 2021 19:25:36 GMT 1
Update time - I've took the bike to a local-ish bike shop and he had the carbs off for a clean and refresh , he also changed the plugs as they were looking very oily after the rough running . The carbs were dirty with partial blocked piolet jets. However my original problem is still there . So when I pull away from stone cold , it just cuts out , it will do this several times . It will easily kick back into life , once warm it's fine and with cleaned out carbs it now flys. Anyone any ideas what electrical problem would cause this , but only happen from stone cold ? - I'm thinking CDI , coils , stator , ignition switch or kill switch , so basically anything which help produce a spark - but I've no idea where to start . I've got banchee coils fitted a few years ago now, has anyone every heard of them giving problems ? Thanks mike . Did they remove the brass balls and clean the air correction circuit at same time as Shaunthe 2nd suggested...It was the main cause of my 350lcs runnings problems...You really need to get it done
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Post by hollo on May 15, 2022 16:11:39 GMT 1
Hello again , well I now know the fault . I got a bit of help from a mate who is a bit more clued up than me, and we measured the resistance from the stator/coils . From the Haynes manual the resistance should be 5.1 ohms between the red & brown wires but it was only 0.4 and also between the brown & black it should be 271 ohms when it was only 230 . Has anyone any experience of any companies offering the service of getting the coils rewound and repaired ? as my thinking is that if I source a second hand unit I'm only replacing 40 year electrics with more 40 year old eclectic components . Also when I take the stator off , and ( hopefully ) replace it , would it affect the timing ? , does it have to re-timed or just a simple bolt in/bolt out ? Thanks Mike .
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Post by arrow on May 15, 2022 16:21:33 GMT 1
Hi Mike, it will need to be re-timed.
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Post by chrisg on May 15, 2022 20:16:17 GMT 1
Ive used west country winding in the past or try to get a used part. Search the site or youtube on timing. You will need a dti , its really pretty easy.
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