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Post by beardy on Aug 22, 2021 22:52:34 GMT 1
A couple of years ago I fitted a complete Vape Power Dynamo to my 4lo. About £350 iirc. This includes the stator and rotor plus cdi, coil and plug leads and caps and complete charging system. Also included is a rotor puller tool. Mutts and Norbo sell them. I repaired my fuse box with a pattern one I bought from Yambits just to get the clips as mine had fractured through age. This was about £20. Can’t help with the ignition switch as touchwood mines still fine.
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Post by charles13 on Aug 22, 2021 23:08:29 GMT 1
The Power dynamo for the lc must be different than portrayed in the picture (which is good news) if it contains the entire ignition system. I wonder if I can modify my really nice 31k loom with some new lengths of wire to work with the power dynamo? this would be a big win in the dollar department and I could move on to the chassis assembly and actually start a proper build thread. This place is priceless!
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Post by JonW on Aug 23, 2021 0:53:39 GMT 1
The Power dynamo for the lc must be different than portrayed in the picture (which is good news) if it contains the entire ignition system. I wonder if I can modify my really nice 31k loom with some new lengths of wire to work with the power dynamo? this would be a big win in the dollar department and I could move on to the chassis assembly and actually start a proper build thread. This place is priceless! As said before, all the locations where parts sit is different on the LC and the LC2. fusebox, CDI connections etc etc etc. There are some bits the same, ie connections in the headlight bowl but you're going to be cutting a lot. Start where you like of course, its your bike afterall, but an LC loom is much easier start point on an LC no matter what new parts you are adding.
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Post by stusco on Aug 23, 2021 7:30:53 GMT 1
I fitted a new f2 loom to my lc because i have a pv engine and switch gear (i was new) it was a pain in the a##e lots of cutting and extending
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Post by beardy on Aug 23, 2021 8:26:21 GMT 1
This is what came in my kit
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Post by charles13 on Aug 23, 2021 9:31:02 GMT 1
This is what came in my kit I don’t see a cdi, there is a stator, flywheel, pickup, reg/rectifier, coils and plug wires
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Post by beardy on Aug 23, 2021 10:46:04 GMT 1
This is what came in my kit I don’t see a cdi, there is a stator, flywheel, pickup, reg/rectifier, coils and plug wires It’s a coil/cdi unit 👍🏻
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Post by diesel on Aug 24, 2021 11:03:13 GMT 1
just have a read through instructions i bought one for my 250lc it needed very high cranking speed to start so most of the time it fouls plugs & timing was static. it was the race version not road might be different! i put up with it for 1 day put it back in box & fitted a ignitec
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Post by beardy on Aug 24, 2021 13:49:25 GMT 1
just have a read through instructions i bought one for my 250lc it needed very high cranking speed to start so most of the time it fouls plugs & timing was static. it was the race version not road might be different! i put up with it for 1 day put it back in box & fitted a ignitec I’ve got the street version with charging system. I’d say the opposite with mine. Starts much better than the old genuine ignition and has yet to foul a plug after a couple of years. That’s with it running deliberately richer than ideal.
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Post by charles13 on Aug 26, 2021 1:00:34 GMT 1
As said before, all the locations where parts sit is different on the LC and the LC2. fusebox, CDI connections etc etc etc. There are some bits the same, ie connections in the headlight bowl but you're going to be cutting a lot.
Start where you like of course, its your bike afterall, but an LC loom is much easier start point on an LC no matter what new parts you are adding.[/quote]
Well I appreciate the input from those smarter than I so I have been looking into rebuilding the lc loom; I can pick up a nice Blue Sea Systems marine fuse box from Amazon, the Power Dynamo will replace the charging side and ignition so all I need is a new ignition switch and maybe a few connectors, I can get an ignition switch from an inmate here but it has no key so; I am looking into how to get a new key made (I have also misplaced the key to my 31k) so 2 wins if I figure it out
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Post by JonW on Aug 26, 2021 1:49:26 GMT 1
As said to your question in another place, key number is on the bottom of the ignition. ebay the number and see what comes up.
You can rekey these locks easily enough, plenty of info on how to do that, here and possibly youtube etc.
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Post by charles13 on Sept 20, 2021 23:49:18 GMT 1
Starting to dig into this lc build and first thing I come across; the Powdercoater sandblasted the inside of the headstock and now the new bearing race just falls out! It’s not really loose but you can just place it in and pull it out with your fingers. I was thinking of silicone but what if I have to replace it? I’ve never seen this before, they also filled in my numbers matching serial number a bit so I’m going to pick at it with dental tools
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Post by JonW on Sept 21, 2021 0:56:44 GMT 1
Sadly powder coaters who work on commercial things like fence panels and widgets dont know how to do bike frames.
A frame is a complex set of tubes, blasting and powdercoating it takes skill... or you just blast the hell out of it on full pressure and then chuck as much powder at it as you can and do a thick coat.
Many operators do the latter, its quicker and time is money.
have a look at bearing lock which is a product from loctite. It will be stuck in tho if you do that. you can also use a punch to lift the metal a little as well. These dont have lots of rotation so the punch may well do it.
As for the number, maybe remove a strip of powder. put something over it tho, it will rust if you just strip the powder off.
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Post by charles13 on Sept 21, 2021 1:19:55 GMT 1
Nice one Jon I think going around the top perimeter with a center punch after it’s in place might just work. I still think picking the powder out of the numbers then a light respray or even a contrasting color applied with a toothpick in the numbers?
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Post by JonW on Sept 21, 2021 1:27:01 GMT 1
Nice one Jon I think going around the top perimeter with a center punch after it’s in place might just work. I still think picking the powder out of the numbers then a light respray or even a contrasting color applied with a toothpick in the numbers? that would work, but... PC is plastic, not paint. picking isnt easy as it lifts and once its done that it wont stick back down. filling in with paint would work, but its still compromised the coating when lifting with the pick.
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Post by dusty350 on Sept 21, 2021 7:02:01 GMT 1
Regards the frame number - mask it off and use a little paint stripper - a good one - and paint it over your frame numbers with a modelling brush. Paint stripper will strip powdercoat Dusty
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