|
Post by chud786 on Jul 8, 2021 22:01:03 GMT 1
Just finished my N2 build.It ticks over nicely and revs ok upto about 6000/6500 rmp but won't rev past that. Occasionally it will go to 7000 but it's very intermittent.Also the indicators work perfectly on tick over but when the revs climb they either don't work or are very weak and flash erratically.I don't know if these two things are related. Was thinking maybe a stator problem but don't really know,just stabbing a guess. Any help appreciated.
|
|
|
Post by shaunthe2nd on Jul 8, 2021 22:10:13 GMT 1
Do a search on here for cleaning the air circuit in the carbs. Some threads state clean behind your balls. It could also be electrical, but would eliminate the carbs first. Also check your exhausts are not coked up. When was the last time they were cleaned out?
|
|
|
Post by andy748 on Jul 8, 2021 22:18:48 GMT 1
Check your powervalves are not 180 degrees out, mine was exactly the same, guess what, i flipped them to tighten them up and forgot to turn them back! Andy.
|
|
|
Post by stirling11 on Jul 9, 2021 1:12:23 GMT 1
Had the same issue
Turns out the PV controller was shot
|
|
|
Post by chud786 on Jul 9, 2021 14:27:22 GMT 1
Thanks for the replies If I start with the easiest first, and this may seem a really dumb question, but should the 2 Allen screws that joint the 2 halves on the PV together face up or down when the PV is in the correct orientation
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 10, 2021 10:07:18 GMT 1
Up
Steve
|
|
|
Post by chud786 on Jul 10, 2021 13:29:57 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by chud786 on Jul 10, 2021 13:45:52 GMT 1
Thought I would start with electrics in the elimination process. Battery is charging at 14.1v,seems ok Tested stator as follows:- Unplugged stator and put a multimeter across the the 3 white wires in pairs as per Haynes instructions.I set the meter on 200ohms and touched the probes together and got a reading of 1.3 then tested the 3 wires and got a reading of 1.8 for each test Does this equal a resistance of 0.5 ohms as it states in Haynes?? Next checked to see if the PV was working properly First video shows PV as ignition is turned on Second video shows PV when bike reved to 7k Does everything seem ok electircal wise and are the PV working correctly? Thanks i
|
|
|
Post by skydemon on Jul 10, 2021 16:19:38 GMT 1
Yes it does resistance wise. I can’t answer the PV QUESTION
|
|
|
Post by chud786 on Jul 10, 2021 16:26:54 GMT 1
Yes it does resistance wise. I can’t answer the PV QUESTION Thanks.I can cross that off the list then.
|
|
|
Post by cb250g5 on Jul 10, 2021 16:41:17 GMT 1
You're testing the wrong bits. The 3 white wires are the alternator 3 phase output - charges the battery, but has no bearing on the ignition side of things.
You need to test the low speed and high speed windings. Given your bikes reluctance to rev, I'd suspect the high speed windings, if it is an electrical issue. You should test the pulse coil as well. I'm sure the required resistances are in the Haynes book of lies.
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 10, 2021 18:02:31 GMT 1
Pv's seem to be working
As said it is the red, green and brown wires you need to check are as per the manual
The white with green trace and white with red trace are the pick up wires
Steve
|
|
|
Post by chud786 on Jul 11, 2021 12:20:00 GMT 1
Tested the high and low speed windings and the pulse coil and everything is within parameters as per Haynes. Then tested the ignition coil and the low tension side is ok but when I tested the high side I got reading of infinite resistance(if that's what a "1" means on my meter).I tested by putting a probe in each plug cap and also by putting one probe in the cap and the other to earth,dont know which is correct because Haynes is a bit unclear,either way I got no reading.I'm using black NGK resistor caps,again don't know if these are the correct ones and would make a difference to the test.
|
|
|
Post by cb250g5 on Jul 11, 2021 12:49:26 GMT 1
You should test between caps / wires. Each plug cap will add 5K ohms to the resistance, so I'd unscrew them and test from the ends of the wires. If the HT leads are worn, it's often worth trimming a few mm off the ends, back to fresh wire.
The result should be in the thousands of ohms, so make sure you have chosen the right setting on your meter.
BTW, if using resistor caps, chose non-resistor plugs.
|
|
|
Post by chud786 on Jul 11, 2021 13:06:36 GMT 1
That's great advice thanks I'm using Br9es plugs as specified So resistor plugs and caps are a bad combination? Would I be better using non resistor(red) caps and sticking with specified plugs?
|
|
|
Post by chud786 on Jul 11, 2021 13:21:32 GMT 1
That worked👍 Bloody Haynes gave range of about 4 to 7 ohms not kohms🤔 Mine test at 5.9 so all good. Now I know the electrics are ok the only thing left is the carbs I suppose If it won't rev past 6k would that indicate not enough fuel so maybe drop the clip on the needles? Anything else to try before stripping the carbs? Thanks for all the help so far
|
|
|
Post by 4l04ever on Jul 11, 2021 13:34:35 GMT 1
The high speed running coil can break down when it gets hot...or through vibration...
|
|
|
Post by chud786 on Jul 11, 2021 13:56:04 GMT 1
The high speed running coil can break down when it gets hot...or through vibration... Ok thats interesting How do I test that then? Was told by the previous owner the bike was running well and the only things I have changed is the plug caps,fitted a balance pipe,refitted the 2 snorkels in the air box,fitted standard reeds and rebuilt the carb.Logic would say it has to be one of these things causing the issue??
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 11, 2021 14:17:54 GMT 1
When you rebuilt the carbs did you use genuine parts
I've had bikes not rev due to being way rich
Pattern needles and jets can be way off
Steve
|
|
|
Post by Chewie01 on Jul 11, 2021 14:35:20 GMT 1
When you rebuilt the carbs did you use genuine parts I've had bikes not rev due to being way rich Pattern needles and jets can be way off Steve Hi Steve, I've looked on Allens Performance shop and bought jets from him, but needles are a bit of a mine field. Do you know which series should be used for an N2/F2? Ian
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 11, 2021 15:08:49 GMT 1
Sorry but I don't know
The earlier carbs ran a 5k1 needle with a 345 P0 nozzle but don't know if that carried over
If you phone Allen's they should be able to advise you
Steve
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 11, 2021 15:15:13 GMT 1
Just checked xaviers site and it says 5L20 for F2
N-8 544 needle jet
Steve
|
|
|
Post by cb250g5 on Jul 11, 2021 15:49:17 GMT 1
I run resistor plugs and non-resistor caps, but either way round should be fine. No need to double up.
FWIW I'm on iridium plugs, been in for over 10 years, no issues what so ever. Think I've cleaned them twice in that time. Done coming up to 40,000 miles on them, so might be time to treat the old girl to another pair. I've had 2 cranks and 2 sets of rings, but same plugs...
|
|
|
Post by chud786 on Jul 11, 2021 16:36:08 GMT 1
When you rebuilt the carbs did you use genuine parts I've had bikes not rev due to being way rich Pattern needles and jets can be way off Steve I used a Tourmax rebuild kit. I read they where good quality.I didn't replace any jets just cleaned the ones that were fitted.From what I remember,and it was nearly a year ago,all jets were standard apart from the main which was bigger I assumed it was because of the Jolly Moto exhausts.I did write the sizes down but can't find them
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 11, 2021 16:55:17 GMT 1
Tourmax kit on the fuel valve will be fine
Steve
|
|
|
Post by Chewie01 on Jul 11, 2021 17:41:13 GMT 1
Just checked xaviers site and it says 5L20 for F2 N-8 544 needle jet Steve Thanks for taking the time to look it up. I didn't think Xaviers site would have that information.
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 11, 2021 18:21:00 GMT 1
Just checked xaviers site and it says 5L20 for F2 N-8 544 needle jet Steve Thanks for taking the time to look it up. I didn't think Xaviers site would have that information. No probs The technical spec for all the 350 models is on there 👍 Steve
|
|
|
Post by chud786 on Jul 11, 2021 18:22:09 GMT 1
Tourmax kit on the fuel valve will be fine Steve What would be your advise be on the carb setup Steve? Should I strip them again,maybe change the main back to standard,move the clip on the needle?? I'm very much a novice when it comes to carb set up but assume if everything is standard it's a good base line to start from.
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 11, 2021 18:30:02 GMT 1
From the pic it looks like you have went back to standard pipes
If so then go back to the standard 185 main jet and the standard needle position
Did you take the emulsion tube out (needle jet nozzle) and the brass ball to clean the air correction jet behind it which feeds air into the needle jet?
Steve
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 11, 2021 18:30:39 GMT 1
Standard is position 2
Steve
|
|