|
Post by Woodentop on Jun 21, 2021 18:25:22 GMT 1
Hi,
I have the clips ons from a N1/F1 on my bike (LC2) but want to change them for flat bars. I see a lot recommend the 758(?) bars from renthal. What is everyone using?
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 21, 2021 18:46:21 GMT 1
Not wanting to be a parrot but 758's on all my builds 😁
Steve
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Jun 22, 2021 8:05:05 GMT 1
The LC2 OEMs?
|
|
|
Post by tonyd123 on Jun 22, 2021 11:00:40 GMT 1
|
|
nellyj
L plate rider.
Posts: 32
|
Post by nellyj on Jun 22, 2021 14:31:06 GMT 1
Hi, I have the clips ons from a N1/F1 on my bike (LC2) but want to change them for flat bars. I see a lot recommend the 758(?) bars from renthal. What is everyone using? Hi, I am trying to do the same conversion to my F2, can I ask how you're mounting the flat bars?
|
|
|
Post by tonyd123 on Jun 22, 2021 15:20:40 GMT 1
|
|
nellyj
L plate rider.
Posts: 32
|
Post by nellyj on Jun 22, 2021 15:55:41 GMT 1
Very helpful, thanks. I guess the washer underneath the yoke sits on the webbing?
|
|
|
Post by Robbieben on Jun 22, 2021 16:04:34 GMT 1
Very helpful, thanks. I guess the washer underneath the yoke sits on the webbing? Personally I'd fill the void under the yoke with a resin or body filler to provide more support.
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Jun 23, 2021 7:53:18 GMT 1
I love the look of flat bars on our bikes, and I've done it a few times, but it does create issues if you do decide to go with "flatties" First is, for me anyway, I find they are quite uncomfortable, and turn your wrists inwards a bit, due to the shape of the bars. Ok for a bit but uncomfortable long term. Also, depending on what clocks you use, you may find the master cylinder contacts the clock binnacle, plus brake hose exit may be less than an ideal routing. Also, the clutch cable could have a difficult time of it, and you may need a cable from a different model. Not trying to put you off, but be aware it's not necessarily a bolt on and go with straight bars. I know this is an Lc, but you can see what I mean; 20170811_143114 by dusty miller, on Flickr I just go with Renthal ultra low rise bars now as everything works as intended, and they are comfy. Dusty
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Jun 23, 2021 8:12:57 GMT 1
Very helpful, thanks. I guess the washer underneath the yoke sits on the webbing? Personally I'd fill the void under the yoke with a resin or body filler to provide more support. No resin or filler will help these if they are going to rip out. Welding them up is another option if youre worried. Ive used plates and washers on builds to spread the load, just didnt want to throw so much heat into these cheaply cast parts.
|
|
nellyj
L plate rider.
Posts: 32
|
Post by nellyj on Jun 23, 2021 11:46:14 GMT 1
I love the look of flat bars on our bikes, and I've done it a few times, but it does create issues if you do decide to go with "flatties" First is, for me anyway, I find they are quite uncomfortable, and turn your wrists inwards a bit, due to the shape of the bars. Ok for a bit but uncomfortable long term. Also, depending on what clocks you use, you may find the master cylinder contacts the clock binnacle, plus brake hose exit may be less than an ideal routing. Also, the clutch cable could have a difficult time of it, and you may need a cable from a different model. Not trying to put you off, but be aware it's not necessarily a bolt on and go with straight bars. I know this is an Lc, but you can see what I mean; 20170811_143114 by dusty miller, on Flickr I just go with Renthal ultra low rise bars now as everything works as intended, and they are comfy. Dusty I also like the look of flat bars but can see how they may be uncomfortable. The ones in the pic seem slightly upswept which would probably make things worse. The Rental bars are starting to look like a better idea.
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Jun 23, 2021 14:16:03 GMT 1
I found "dead straight bars" even worst, so those Renthals in the pic with the kinked ends offer some compromise, but not enough for me, hence I went with the ultra lows, which solved all the problems the straights gave me. Each to their own though. Easy to get an idea if straights would work though -just try a bit of broom handle across the yoke and that will give you an idea of what may be a problem, fit wise
Dusty🙂
|
|
|
Post by skydemon on Jun 26, 2021 12:24:49 GMT 1
I love the look of flat bars on our bikes, and I've done it a few times, but it does create issues if you do decide to go with "flatties" First is, for me anyway, I find they are quite uncomfortable, and turn your wrists inwards a bit, due to the shape of the bars. Ok for a bit but uncomfortable long term. Also, depending on what clocks you use, you may find the master cylinder contacts the clock binnacle, plus brake hose exit may be less than an ideal routing. Also, the clutch cable could have a difficult time of it, and you may need a cable from a different model. Not trying to put you off, but be aware it's not necessarily a bolt on and go with straight bars. I know this is an Lc, but you can see what I mean; 20170811_143114 by dusty miller, on Flickr I just go with Renthal ultra low rise bars now as everything works as intended, and they are comfy. Dusty I also like the look of flat bars but can see how they may be uncomfortable. The ones in the pic seem slightly upswept which would probably make things worse. The Rental bars are starting to look like a better idea. I have micron straights on mine and whilst I don’t find them uncomfortable the do open up the body and catch the breeze a bit. Was thinking of turning them upside down so pointing to the ground. I’ll let you know how i get on
|
|