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Post by abar121 on Feb 25, 2021 12:26:48 GMT 1
Hi Chaps, I bought an RZ350 from a forum member on here, which originally came from that mass importer, DK Motorcycles. I've had quite a few bikes from them over the years, mainly H1 / H2 triples and have fully restored 'em. I still have a H2, but otherwise it's all Yamaha's for me at the moment. This is a bit different. I will refresh it and pass it on, it's not a keeper. So hopefully not a long thread, we'll see It looks quite nice to be honest. Frame has been painted fairly recently. Engine was refreshed at some stage, as the sealant isn't too old. Apparently it ran well. More on that later. As received.
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Post by abar121 on Feb 25, 2021 12:29:39 GMT 1
The chap that bought it from DK, spent a fair wack on loads of spares including: UK clocks, Higgspeed exhausts, YSS shock, seat foam and cover, Banshee coils, 31k Eur loom etc etc. A big box of spares came with it, which has been raided constantly. Higgspeeds. Nice welding on these and really light. They must be half the weight of Allspeeds / Microns.
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Post by abar121 on Feb 25, 2021 12:32:46 GMT 1
It came with two tanks. The two colour one is the original us spec, with the narrow filler neck insert. It looks like it was painted with a 6" brush. I've decided to use the other red tank. Both are perfect inside.
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Post by abar121 on Feb 25, 2021 12:41:18 GMT 1
Trying to decide what to do with the CV carbs. I was originally going to replace them with stock 31K carbs, currently on my blue F1. I got a set of KX 85 PWKs to fit on that bike, which should go nicely with the Mick abbey road porting on it. But I think I'll try the CV carbs. One problem might be the unusual throttle cable layout, for which I do not have a matching cable. Can anyone help?
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Post by JonW on Feb 25, 2021 13:47:57 GMT 1
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Post by abar121 on Feb 25, 2021 14:13:44 GMT 1
Hmm, that looks a little different. There are two connections at the carb, one behind the other, if you look at my photo.
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Post by abar121 on Feb 25, 2021 14:47:10 GMT 1
So I spent a day or so just going over everything and taking stock of what has / hasn't been done. Rear brake had no pads / pins and clearly a failed attempt had been made to bleed it. Stripping down the master cylinder, the piston was jammed. Some WD40 and a few light taps and it was freed then rebuilt. The missing pads etc were in the box of spares, so all fitted and now working well I put the headlight bracket on (kindly supplied by Yogi) and started to look over the electrics. A euro 31k loom had been fitted and the US one removed, in the box. The bike came with 31k right / F2 left switchgear fitted, obviously not matching the loom. However there was the US left switch in the box, so that was fitted up with the dash and everything plugged in. It then looked like this.
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Post by abar121 on Feb 25, 2021 14:54:51 GMT 1
The battery was toast (a shame as it was new, but left unused). A new battery was fitted I was greeted with flashing neutral / oil lights. The wrong indicator relay was fitted, with two of the pins swapped. As it's a 5 min job to de-pin, I switched it around and bingo. Flashing indicators. I have a good 31k OE coil, so that was fitted, but no spark. It has a later N1 style CDI fitted. I checked the wiring on the conversion from the early 31k Stator, to the later CDI posted on here. Still no spark. More tracing back to the black / yellow wire to the CDI. At least I think that was the one, as there were a few bullet connector which were all replaced / re-crimped. So it's sparking now! The YPVS motor span, tried to self clean and then gave up.
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Post by abar121 on Feb 25, 2021 16:18:58 GMT 1
Next, the switchgear was gummed up on both sides. The indicator switch stuck, high low and kill all working intermittently. Cleaned and lubed with switch cleaner, all working again.
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Post by Yogi on Feb 25, 2021 17:04:26 GMT 1
Hi Mate
Glad to see your steaming ahead with it now Looks like you’ve sorted loads of problems already 👍
Bookmarked now and ready for more updates
Atb Matt 🧸
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Post by abar121 on Feb 25, 2021 17:16:50 GMT 1
Cheers Matt, Hope you are well. My father likes to spray stuff, so I gave him the bodywork. He usually uses celly, then 2k canned lacquer for the tank, Upol 1k smart lacquer for everything else . We're trying 2k basecoast, then 2k lacquer straight from the gun, with the right mask etc. The finish from the cans is pretty variable, although we have had some good results. They can also splutter, drip, causing a load more work. Graphics from image works, as usual. So far:
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Post by Yogi on Feb 25, 2021 17:28:47 GMT 1
Cheers Matt, Hope you are well. My father likes to spray stuff, so I gave him the bodywork. He usually uses celly, then 2k canned lacquer for the tank, Upol 1k smart lacquer for everything else . We're trying 2k basecoast, then 2k lacquer straight from the gun, with the right mask etc. The finish from the cans is pretty variable, although we have had some good results. They can also splutter, drip, causing a load more work. Graphics from image works, as usual. So far: That’s looks like a top job there mate 👌
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 25, 2021 17:35:20 GMT 1
Looking good 😎
The carbs are not CV. They are just linked Mikuni Vm's like on the UK bike but Japan and US bikes have a twin cable push/pull for safety. I reckon it will work with just the pull cable that jonw pointed out
Steve
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Post by abar121 on Feb 25, 2021 17:38:30 GMT 1
Looking good 😎 The carbs are not CV. They are just linked Mikuni Vm's like on the UK bike but Japan and US bikes have a twin cable push/pull for safety. I reckon it will work with just the pull cable that jonw pointed out Steve Thanks mate, that's good news. I'll try and fire it up when I'm next in the workshop. Can they be removed easily separately, or do I have to faff around getting both in / out at the same time?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 25, 2021 17:44:51 GMT 1
Afraid they are joined at all times so a right ball ache to get on and off. I had a lot of probs with mine so junked them in the end and fitted standard carbs and cable
Best way to get them off was to undo the airbox clamps completely and open them up to remove.
Then fold the airbox rubbers in on themselves and pull them out
Then you should have enough room to pull the carbs back and slide out the side
Obviously the cables need removed first. Fitting is the reverse.
Steve
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Post by abar121 on Feb 26, 2021 10:20:01 GMT 1
So the US clocks unfortunately had a broken front cover. If anyone has one, I'm interested. So I switched the US speedo into the UK dash. It has the ignition cover cut off unfortunately. I might plastic weld something on there, we'll see. I forgot to check all the bulbs damm it, so it'll have to come back apart. The left indicator and speedo bulbs aren't working.
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Post by jon on Feb 27, 2021 10:54:45 GMT 1
abar121
Alankelly on here was selling 3D printed ignition covers to glue on.
Jon
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Post by abar121 on Feb 27, 2021 20:46:17 GMT 1
Cheers Jon, I have one coming shortly. 2k Lacquer now applied. First time using this product, so a little colour sanding is required in a few places. Still lovely though.
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Post by Mr Kipling on Feb 27, 2021 20:53:32 GMT 1
Looking good....
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Post by abar121 on Mar 1, 2021 13:48:21 GMT 1
Cheers.
So a bit more work has been completed.
The right side engine cover had a bit of gravel rash, so that was sanded, a little filler and painted with Hycote gloss black engine enamel.
I tried to reuse the gasket, as my spare was damaged. Damm thing is leaking now though, so I'll have to order another.
Some fun also with the YPVS servo / controller. It tried to self clean, but struggled. So I took off the cables, which were partially seized and lubed them. All connected back up and then I gave it a whirl. Unfortunately the motor then only spun one way, then quit.
Cables back off and I tried the motor direct to 12v as per the Haynes manual. It spins fine. 7.5k reistance on two of the three tests, the other much lower about 2k. So is it the controller, motor or wiring? Didn't have long enough to dive any further. I will switch known good units in next time.
One step forward...
Still looking for the following:
Still looking for: Bikini fairing brackets. The ones that bolt into the fairing itself and attach to the headlight bracket. Bolts / nuts for these Rear lower muddy. Screen plus screen bolts. I will probably order a load of black screws / nuts. Are they M4? 2 x indicator rubbers and nuts. One Horn. High if you have it. Kidney clocks cover with the key cover intact, or just a damaged cover with good plastic for either the speedo or rev counter. Throttle cable either for the CV carbs and also one for PWKs (another bike). F1 fairing bolts, again for another bike
Cheers.
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Post by abar121 on Mar 13, 2021 17:14:59 GMT 1
So back to the garage to do some more work on the RZ. Wheels masked, painted with gold wheel paint and then 2k lacquered. I really hate doing wheels and this was no different. Anyone find any masking tape that sticks to the polished rims? Even degreased and panel wiped, nothing sticks.
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Post by abar121 on Mar 13, 2021 17:18:33 GMT 1
I had a chance to diagnose the reluctant power valve. I switched the servo over to my blue F1 and it works just fine. Buzzing out all of the wires to the servo control unit and servo motor, all appear ok. Brown / black has power and earth. So it must be the control unit. Got the blighter apart and the transmistors ordered. Can't hurt to have a go at fixing the for four quid or so.
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Post by Mr Kipling on Mar 13, 2021 17:56:43 GMT 1
good job on the wheels, look like its coming along nicely....
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Post by abar121 on Mar 15, 2021 15:01:06 GMT 1
Thanks. So I removed these linked beasties. It took a good 30mins of wrestling and a few skinned knuckles. They look to be in decent nick and would clean up fine. But I really can't face putting them back in, so a set of 31K carbs will do. I can then do a sneaky upgrade om my Blue F1 with mick abbey barrels, to a set of PWKs. I have two KX85 ones, just need the curved carb tops if anyone has some.
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Post by abar121 on Mar 16, 2021 21:56:48 GMT 1
Got the seat recovered. Found it a bit more challenging than a 4LO seat, due to the slight rise in profile by the tank. I staple at the front and back, then each side, then re-tension them all as needed. But maybe a different approach is better for these? The Dewalt electric gun and 6mm staples recommended on here were fine.
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Post by abar121 on Mar 18, 2021 13:56:50 GMT 1
3D printed ignition surround painted and glued onto the clocks, as supplied by Alan on here. I lightly filled it, but left some of the printing trace, as it looks cool.
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Post by abar121 on Apr 20, 2022 11:35:16 GMT 1
Forgot to update this one. The PV control unit repair didn't last for more than a couple of resets, so I swapped it for the one on my F1, which now gets a sneaky Ignitech upgrade As with all these projects, there were a hundred and one small jobs that cropped up. One I quite liked was fitting neodymium magnets to the front of the side panels, with small brackets to match. They really snap on well now and are easy to remove. The other two plastic tangs on both side panels were fine. Got it finished and took it for a quick spin. It looks lovely and rode well. I really love the sound on those pipes too. Now to pass it on as I need the space.
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Post by abar121 on Apr 20, 2022 11:35:41 GMT 1
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Post by arrdy350 on Apr 20, 2022 12:08:18 GMT 1
Very nice. Bike looks great 😀👍
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Post by Yogi on Apr 20, 2022 16:45:26 GMT 1
Really nice job you’ve done there mate 👌
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