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Post by ringdingding on Aug 30, 2020 17:10:04 GMT 1
After fitting my new YSS rear shock and doing some shakedown tests on the newly rebuilt LC2 I've come to the conclusion the front forks are way too soft, and mismatched with the new rear shock.
I know I could go all old skool and put two pence pieces in there until I was happy, but I'd prefer to put new springs in it.
I know the LC2 forks are different to the later forks but can you fit any after market upgraded front springs to the LC2 forks or are they specific to this model?
Thanks
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Post by Yogi on Aug 30, 2020 17:12:57 GMT 1
Norbo does Hagon progressive springs for the lc2
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Post by mak595 on Aug 31, 2020 12:56:11 GMT 1
A lot of suspension firms say linear springs are the way to go now rather than progressive but dunno which is best with the very basic PV fork damping....
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Post by veg on Aug 31, 2020 14:40:54 GMT 1
If you can get the emulators they are the change plus new springs, I've fitted hagon progressives plenty of discussion its one of the most talked about changes on here.
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Post by freddie19 on Aug 31, 2020 22:02:59 GMT 1
I fitted Hagon progressive front springs to my '85 RZ350 years ago.
If anything they are softer than the STD 31k springs!🤔
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Post by ringdingding on Sept 1, 2020 9:44:43 GMT 1
that's a worry
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Post by billbott on Sept 1, 2020 15:31:06 GMT 1
I had the same dilemma with my GPz900 recently. The front forks were awful, loads of sag but stiff when the brakes were applied due to the crappy anti-dive system.
The (36 year old) fork springs measured within limit – despite this I got a set of Wilbers progressive springs and set them up with a 150mm air gap (compressed) as per their instructions. Linear springs were unavailable for mine I also made some anti-dive bypass plates (so the units are still on but do nothing)
I rebuilt the forks with new top and bottom bushes, seals and used 15 weight oil.
The result was unbelievable, it’s a big heavy bike and the forks are only 38mm diameter but despite this, the ride is pretty good! Static sag is 25-30mm and around 10mm of travel left during heavy braking.
The next step was to try emulators, but the UK distributor didn’t fill me with confidence – Racetech in the states say that the fork damper rods need to be drilled so the emulators can take over all the damping duties but the distributor said to just put them in and they’ll be ok. They couldn’t answer my question about spring length differences once the original TCV valves were taken out.
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Post by bare on Sept 1, 2020 17:46:30 GMT 1
Old Skool: Is to cut 4 or more coils off the stock springs, to increase their rate (stiffness),
then fit a bit of PVC tubing /pipe as compensation spacer.
It works just as well now as it did 30 years ago.
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Post by flames on Sept 2, 2020 10:33:27 GMT 1
Old Skool: Is to cut 4 or more coils off the stock springs, to increase their rate (stiffness), then fit a bit of PVC tubing /pipe as compensation spacer. It works just as well now as it did 30 years ago. If using pvc tubing does it compress or weaken / crack and need changing after a while or is it not affected by the rigours of suspensioning.😔 |
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Post by museumman on Sept 2, 2020 17:05:35 GMT 1
Old Skool: Is to cut 4 or more coils off the stock springs, to increase their rate (stiffness), then fit a bit of PVC tubing /pipe as compensation spacer. It works just as well now as it did 30 years ago. If using pvc tubing does it compress or weaken / crack and need changing after a while or is it not affected by the rigours of suspensioning.😔
a side note, I found a white pvc conduit in my garden (which turned out to go to the shed) I thought it was a tree root with my eyesight then proceeded to damage my wrist trying to hack through it with my spade  I'd cut through several roots, but this conduit was a tough bstd. Eventually a chunk did crack out then I saw the grey electric cable  Id be happy with that in my forks  |
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Post by earthman on Sept 2, 2020 18:01:16 GMT 1
Old Skool: Is to cut 4 or more coils off the stock springs, to increase their rate (stiffness), then fit a bit of PVC tubing /pipe as compensation spacer. It works just as well now as it did 30 years ago. If using pvc tubing does it compress or weaken / crack and need changing after a while or is it not affected by the rigours of suspensioning.😔 Those are my thoughts too. Which springs are best to get for the 4LO? |
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Post by flames on Sept 2, 2020 18:33:21 GMT 1
If using pvc tubing does it compress or weaken / crack and need changing after a while or is it not affected by the rigours of suspensioning.😔 a side note, I found a white pvc conduit in my garden (which turned out to go to the shed) I thought it was a tree root with my eyesight then proceeded to damage my wrist trying to hack through it with my spade I'd cut through several roots, but this conduit was a tough bstd. Eventually a chunk did crack out then I saw the grey electric cable Id be happy with that in my forks Good job I weren't helping.....I would've gone through the grey cable and started a fire with my track record. 😁 |
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Post by bare on Sept 2, 2020 18:53:53 GMT 1
Old Skool: Is to cut 4 or more coils off the stock springs, to increase their rate (stiffness), then fit a bit of PVC tubing /pipe as compensation spacer. It works just as well now as it did 30 years ago. If using pvc tubing does it compress or weaken / crack and need changing after a while or is it not affected by the rigours of suspensioning.😔 No evidence of that..as yet, albeit only ~ 10 years on :-) |
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I'd cut through several roots, but this conduit was a tough bstd. Eventually a chunk did crack out then I saw the grey electric cable 
Id be happy with that in my forks 
