tomtom1
Thrash Merchant
Leeds
Posts: 355
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Post by tomtom1 on Aug 11, 2020 19:49:14 GMT 1
Hi all in the near future I will fitting a new set of clutch plates (friction and steels) wth springs) bought from mutts so I know they are the correct stack height, reason I'm doing this is the dreaded can't get neutral when engine is running, it's not dragging as in when it's in 1st with engine running I can move bike backwards and forwards with ease, but can't get neutral, can get it when engine stopped, tried GL4 oil still no joy, I have a Haynes manual but is there any tips not in the manual about fitting.
So my questions
what is the Importance of liining the clutch arm with the marker on the crank cases? the previous owner adjusted the arm so it was further out towards the outside of the engine I assume to get a little more pull on the clutch and maybe sepperate the plates
I've not looked at my new plates yet but I've seen some on eBay and the steels plates have a nipple on the outer edge do I line them up or stagger them?
On the clutch basket outer plate there are 3 arrows what are they for?
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Norbo sells the little arm with the roller on the end for the selector drum is it worth getting one will it help
Sorry for all the question so but I know the hynes manual isn't always right.
Cheers
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Post by mannanan on Aug 11, 2020 21:03:48 GMT 1
Personally I think a lot of it is just technique as you will find, “they all do that Sir” Just get used to coming into neutral from 2nd gear, not from 1st. Others may have a more positive contribution. Sorry.
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Post by JonW on Aug 12, 2020 4:44:19 GMT 1
Have a read of the manual, it covers the clutch plates and spring fitting pretty well I feel.
Put the arm where it should be and do it all by the book and see what its like. Make sure the ball bearing isnt missing.
Neutral is not always easy with these bikes and you might find that adjusting the chain or rolling the bike while running will help. Some people do the star mod (search on that) and some adjust the shift shaft differently to the book. but id start with the manual's settings and work your way after that, how do you know what the PO did is helping the problem, maybe it is the problem etc.
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tomtom1
Thrash Merchant
Leeds
Posts: 355
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Post by tomtom1 on Aug 12, 2020 7:32:02 GMT 1
i do have a Tecnhic like mannanan said i just get neutral from 2nd, but a lot of people say they have problems getting it so I'm going to give it a go. so Il just go by the Haynes book, the PO had put genuine steel plates in put aftermark frictions and he said it was ok before, so Il start there. cheers
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Post by JonW on Aug 12, 2020 9:12:45 GMT 1
I reckon his adjustment was a bit slap dash, you might find that it works better with that redone etc. Let us know how you go.
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Post by 4l04ever on Aug 12, 2020 9:35:40 GMT 1
I fit the metal plates with the tabs at 12 o'clock, then 4 o'clock, then 8 o'clock, and repeat.
When reassembling, you have to line one of the arrows up with the dot on the edge of the inner hub, otherwise it will not fit on fully.
Also, make sure the ball is the correct size. Should be roughly the same size as the push rod.
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Post by 4l04ever on Aug 12, 2020 9:37:37 GMT 1
If you update your profile to show your location, there may be someone local to you who can assist you :-)
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Post by bare on Aug 15, 2020 3:18:31 GMT 1
Sometimes :-) fitting Gear oil in the transbox erases the No Neutral issue.. Instantly.
GL4 works for me.
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tomtom1
Thrash Merchant
Leeds
Posts: 355
|
Post by tomtom1 on Aug 15, 2020 14:10:30 GMT 1
Sometimes :-) fitting Gear oil in the transbox erases the No Neutral issue.. Instantly. GL4 works for me. I've tried GL4 and was better but still not right,, I've bought the clutch kit now so I'm going to try solve the problem, I've also read about the hooks on the end of the gear lever shaft that pull and rotate the selector drum these need to be centralised, so il have a look at that when I pull it down, |
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