2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Aug 2, 2020 0:30:01 GMT 1
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 2, 2020 8:10:13 GMT 1
That swingarm looks awesome Well worth the effort Dusty
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Post by donkeychomp on Aug 2, 2020 21:20:20 GMT 1
Very snazzy indeed!
Alex
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Post by tacky1 on Aug 2, 2020 22:19:30 GMT 1
Now that does look good....
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Aug 3, 2020 10:07:35 GMT 1
Thank you very much lads, Yes a lot of effort but enjoyable at least.
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Aug 4, 2020 12:46:32 GMT 1
not much of an update really, spent a good few hours over the weekend fiddling with the electrics, figuring out colours and connections. I abandonned the excersize as ill be fitting a powerdynamo ignition setup and will need to mate that to the loom and locate the rectifier etc. I will be assembling the bottom half of the engine with ignition this week, just waiting on gearbox parts.
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Aug 11, 2020 10:57:00 GMT 1
bottom end is being built, im finding it difficult to get time in the garage to get this sorted. im missing a gear change detent plunger spring along with two oil seals for the gear selector fork shafts. So I have the cases cleaned, rebuilt crank fitted along with gearbox after a but if head scratching but it all makes sense......so far.
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Aug 14, 2020 0:54:42 GMT 1
Got the crankcases sealed with 3 Bond 1215 and buttoned up last night. Tonight was engine in frame time, what a battle! I certainly didnt make it easy for myself with my positioning of the mounts but its in but not tightened up.
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Aug 16, 2020 0:06:56 GMT 1
got a few hours in the garage today to tighten up the engine mountings, fit a new powerdynamo and fab up some simple brackets for the coil and rectifier. I used some 4mm plate aluminium offcuts and repurposed a previously discarded bracket. So a bit of cutting and grinding and some bolt cutting was done today. I am a bit dissapointed, I managed to damage the paintwork on the front engine mounts while tightening up today. Ill get a small can of touch up paint somewhere...
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Aug 16, 2020 18:52:15 GMT 1
After 6 hours of messing with the electrics today, I dont have much to show for my efforts.
I have power, I have a headlight on key position (I) along with high beam indicator and a flashing stop light.
On key position (II) I have clocks illuminating but nothing else.
I dont have indicators, rear lights or brake lights and no horn.
Ive also got a neutral light! in first gear.... i think ive assembled the selector drum in the wrong position
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Aug 17, 2020 19:24:54 GMT 1
....so sitting at the table after finishing the dinner and not looking forward to the garage, ive got to remove the engine and split the cases to reinstall the gear selector drum.
hours of work wasted
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Post by flames on Aug 17, 2020 19:51:33 GMT 1
That's a sickener dude.😟
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Aug 18, 2020 7:32:16 GMT 1
yup, but it wasnt too bad, so far. The engine is back out and on the bench after a big clean up of the electrical mess on the bench. Gonna investigate what is going on with the gearbox.
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 18, 2020 8:05:33 GMT 1
A quick check to find out if your drum is in the neutral position is to pop off the neutral switch cover. The brass plunger you see is at neutral; 20200211_214638 by dusty miller, on Flickr This shows how it would line up with the contact on the switch cover; 20200216_114600 by dusty miller, on Flickr Sometimes neutral wont light up on the dash unless you touch the gear lever ever so slightly. It's thrown me before - knowing the gearbox is in neutral but no light ? Then I touch the lever, and light suddenly comes on ! Check the easy stuff first before you split the cases Dusty
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Aug 18, 2020 12:28:35 GMT 1
Thanks for the tips dusty, With the engine in the frame the neutral light was coming on with the brass plunger at a 2 o'clock position which is 2nd gear i recon and the gearbox was in a "neutral" position. I tried this a rew times. Before I read your post dusty I had the cases apart... and after playing with the selector it is actually assembled correctly. (embarrased and confused at the same time) I find the gears difficult to select from 5th to 1st, from 1st to neutral is definite and up to 5th selection is positive and definite. Im just turning the selector directly by hand Im getting false neutrals between some gears but I suspect with the engine running normally this is not an issue.
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 18, 2020 14:05:44 GMT 1
Selecting gears by hand is not always a foolproof way of testing the gearbox operation unfortunately. Like you say, a lot of the false neutrals you are experiencing with the engine on the bench may not be there if the bike was running. There will be a fair amount of slop in a 40+ year old gearbox which is probably more obvious on a slowly turning gearbox. Inertia definitely seems to help gear engagement. Dusty
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Aug 18, 2020 19:42:59 GMT 1
thank you very much sir!
another lesson learned, which is all good.
I can now confirm that my deadline for finishing this at the end of Aug. is now not realistic.
ill keep plugging along.
I can take this opportunity to modify the powerdynamo and reroute the neutral switch cable in behind the stator.
I came across a mod. thread on 2strokeworld which deals with some niggly issues which can affect some installations, so ill take my time and get these done.
again, Thanks dusty for the info.
Alan
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Post by alf200808 on Aug 25, 2020 19:04:58 GMT 1
Looking good
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Aug 26, 2020 13:42:43 GMT 1
With the engine out and neutral position in the gearbox resolved I cleaned the cases again and applied fresh gasket cement.
The engine was buttoned up, the stator reassembled after some modifications and fitted. The modifications i followed were listed on the 2strokeworld forum, here is the thread www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=855.0I mods included removing part of the crankcase to help the base plate sit flush. Fitting 2 extra countersunk screws to two plates where
there was initially 2 screws and applying some gasket cement to prevent a possible shorting event from wires vibrating against the housing.
With the engine in the frame I started assembling the wet side of the engine, Kickstart and gear change mechanism fitted.
I had to fit 2 new screws/bolts to one of the retaining collars, 7 years ago when I disassembled the engine the original screws
had to be forceably removed. I used stainless bolts with blue thread lock.
I am a bit confused [again] I see to be missing some sort of retaining collar from the clutch shaft, there are 3 screw holes,
2 can be seen to the left of the shaft. I cannot see this part on any schematics, does anyone know what It is and where to get one?
So moving on I decided to prep the clutch basket, I filed down the groves on the basket and give all the parts a good clean in
some fresh petrol, next up is the clutch build.
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Post by flames on Aug 26, 2020 14:05:23 GMT 1
The c shape retainer in pic under the engine looks a good fit? Is that not what goes there?
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 26, 2020 16:05:23 GMT 1
Have a look at my 400e engine build in the resto section. The bottom end parts you are talking about are pictured in that thread I think👍
Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 26, 2020 18:44:51 GMT 1
I'm on my PC now so can access pics easily. You are missing the bearing retainer plate that sits behind the clutch and is secured by 3 screws on the aircooled engines; 20200425_201613 by dusty miller, on Flickr The other plate you pictured sits next to the shift drum, on the right; 20200211_220701 by dusty miller, on Flickr Hth Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 26, 2020 18:49:29 GMT 1
Just checked Fowlers. The bearing retainer plate - 360 17471 00, is discontinued by Yamaha, so a used one is your best bet Dusty
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Aug 26, 2020 20:49:11 GMT 1
I'm on my PC now so can access pics easily. You are missing the bearing retainer plate that sits behind the clutch and is secured by 3 screws on the aircooled engines; yes dusty thats it! hmmm I actually think I have the 3 countersunk screws for the plate in a grip seal bag but no plate. I checked today with Fowlers and CMSNL but I couldnt locate it on the schematics, doesnt matter. My first port of call in times like this is ebay, nothing is listed but... after a google search YAMBITS have a replacement part, happy days panic over. yambits.co.uk/rd250-main-shaft-bearing-retainer-plate-p-3665.html
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 26, 2020 21:00:53 GMT 1
Good news
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Aug 30, 2020 21:30:38 GMT 1
Waiting for parts to arrive so got a few bits done in between tinkering with the electrics . . . When I bought the engine years ago there was no clutch cable holder and they cant be got as a spare part that I know of. So from a 25mm diameter aluminium rod I cut a slice off drilled a hole and dremeled the under side to slide into the crankcase location, works perfectly! The clutch push mechanism needed a good clean, and it turned out quite well from all the insulating crap which was on it there was surprisingly very little rust or corrosion.
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Post by flames on Aug 30, 2020 22:44:31 GMT 1
Waiting for parts to arrive so got a few bits done in between tinkering with the electrics . . . When I bought the engine years ago there was no clutch cable holder and they cant be got as a spare part that I know of. So from a 25mm diameter aluminium rod I cut a slice off drilled a hole and dremeled the under side to slide into the crankcase location, works perfectly! The clutch push mechanism needed a good clean, and it turned out quite well from all the insulating crap which was on it there was surprisingly very little rust or corrosion. That clutch cable holder is a genius idea. Does it just slide in and get held in place by the side casing?
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Aug 31, 2020 7:06:52 GMT 1
i just sits into the square space in the crankcase and there is a slot in the holder for it to sit over the side cover.
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Aug 31, 2020 19:54:16 GMT 1
working towards the timing I got the intake installed on the barrels after some cleaning and de-oxidization of the reed cage. I used a stainless steel dremel brush in a tap handle to clean up the cages. Installed the pistons and barrels. These were vapour blasted a few years ago and still looking great (after being wrapped in brown paper and stored under the bed) The pistons are ”speed" branded and marked for 250DX. 2 rings with the bottom ring slightly thicker than the top, I cant find any info about them.
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Post by flames on Aug 31, 2020 21:23:43 GMT 1
Looking very tidy.
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