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Post by fatfreddy on Jun 17, 2020 22:33:20 GMT 1
So I am stripping my 31k engine but can’t remove the right hand barrel as one of the studs has corroded so badly that the barrel won’t budge.
I got the nut off using a splitter but the barrel will not release its grip on the stud despite lots of penetrating oil, heat and bashing with a rubber mallet.
I can get purchase on the barrel with a large screwdriver but I am paranoid about using too much force and damaging the case. Any suggestions?
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Post by tony2stroke on Jun 17, 2020 22:44:00 GMT 1
So I am stripping my 31k engine but can’t remove the right hand barrel as one of the studs has corroded so badly that the barrel won’t budge. I got the nut off using a splitter but the barrel will not release its grip on the stud despite lots of penetrating oil, heat and bashing with a rubber mallet. I can get purchase on the barrel with a large screwdriver but I am paranoid about using too much force and damaging the case. Any suggestions? Spray some ACF50 down the stud holes and leave it as long as you can, spraying more down every now and then until it starts giving way, safest way I know. |
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Post by flames on Jun 17, 2020 22:58:59 GMT 1
So I am stripping my 31k engine but can’t remove the right hand barrel as one of the studs has corroded so badly that the barrel won’t budge. I got the nut off using a splitter but the barrel will not release its grip on the stud despite lots of penetrating oil, heat and bashing with a rubber mallet. I can get purchase on the barrel with a large screwdriver but I am paranoid about using too much force and damaging the case. Any suggestions? Spray some ACF50 down the stud holes and leave it as long as you can, spraying more down every now and then until it starts giving way, safest way I know. +1 acf50 is unbelievable sometimes. |
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Post by JonW on Jun 18, 2020 0:37:02 GMT 1
Soaking and heat and then blows with a rubber mallet will help loosen it, I'd avoid prying until its already loose.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 18, 2020 8:50:21 GMT 1
Putty or blue tack to make a reservoir and fill with deox-c
Should do the trick
Steve
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Post by Gitram on Jun 18, 2020 20:28:20 GMT 1
try some vinegar in the blutack reservoir, it's cheaper than chips... i'v been using it recently to get rid of corrosion on wiring connectors, might do the trick if you don't have any deox c to hand
marti
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Post by fatfreddy on Jun 19, 2020 11:06:20 GMT 1
Thanks for the tips.
AFC 50 soaking didn’t help and neither did heat followed by cold water. Am now trying POR 50 rust remover (don’t have any detox c) and, if that doesn’t work, the sledgehammer may come out!
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Post by beardy on Jun 19, 2020 11:29:43 GMT 1
After owning 2 land rovers I’ve learnt that sometimes a mix of all the above are needed. And patience 👍🏻
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Post by chrisg on Jun 19, 2020 11:34:01 GMT 1
Thanks for the tips. AFC 50 soaking didn’t help and neither did heat followed by cold water. Am now trying POR 50 rust remover (don’t have any detox c) and, if that doesn’t work, the sledgehammer may come out! Try lots of little taps with a small steel hammer and keep spraying with release. Dont mark the cylinder, your just trying to vibrate the ruse free. Oh and as said, patience. I found diesel works well ,but smelly. good luck. |
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Post by LC_BOTT on Jun 19, 2020 11:39:14 GMT 1
Can you make some woden or nylon wedges up, and keep tapping them in to try and force the barrel up? Have you taken the nuts off  |
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Post by chrisg on Jun 19, 2020 11:48:33 GMT 1
Is it possible to make a sort of clamp to hold the cylinder and jack it away from the cases (may need some thinking). I know this is what the guys with Suzuki gt750's do.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 19, 2020 12:51:21 GMT 1
I'm assuming it's an inner stud
Fit the other barrel
Then use 2 opposing studs on the stuck barrel to get a bit of 5mm flat bar with holes drilled in it to mount on 2 head bolts on the stuck barrel and over to one stud on the other barrel
Nuts under the bar and above the bar then you can "jack" the stuck stud off
Be gentle and patient
Steve
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fabiostar
Thrash Merchant
the older i get the faster i was.
Posts: 395
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Post by fabiostar on Jun 19, 2020 13:13:41 GMT 1
get it soaked in plusgas, if that doesnt work, its aint moving for anything else.
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Post by fatfreddy on Jun 19, 2020 15:00:33 GMT 1
I did remember to remove the nut. 😃 It required the use of a splitter but came away in the end.
And, funnily enough, it’s the right hand outside stud that’s the problem...
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 19, 2020 15:59:59 GMT 1
Ooh, that's a Bugger
Nothing really around solid 😕
Steve
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Post by jon on Jun 19, 2020 18:13:21 GMT 1
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Post by fatfreddy on Jun 19, 2020 18:25:03 GMT 1
That’s a great suggestion! I’ll give that a go. Cheers. |
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Post by panzermatt on Jun 19, 2020 20:49:27 GMT 1
ok, i had this problem with mine too. tried all methods here. none worked, was worried i would break the stud away from crankcase, then someone suggested coca cola. its on my build thread, you build a dam form bluetac, and fill with coke, leave for a day repeat, and do this for a few days. then hey presto it came off. no damage. it works!
i bet its the front right stud too.
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Post by panzermatt on Jun 19, 2020 20:54:45 GMT 1
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Post by marrcel on Jun 19, 2020 22:44:16 GMT 1
Pv connection taken of?
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Post by chrisg on Jun 20, 2020 19:37:14 GMT 1
Any joy?
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Post by JonW on Jun 22, 2020 1:19:24 GMT 1
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Post by fatfreddy on Jun 23, 2020 23:27:33 GMT 1
I’ve had a few days away from the workshop. I’ll report on progress soon!
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Post by fatfreddy on Nov 1, 2020 14:25:38 GMT 1
After much stopping and starting and having almost become resigned to never getting the bloody barrel off, I had one more attempt yesterday and with much heat and pipe freezing spray and it finally yielded! And once off it revealed this. A partial big bore courtesy of a circlip that had made a bid for freedom... I guess a rebore is on the cards.   |
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fabiostar
Thrash Merchant
the older i get the faster i was.
Posts: 395
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Post by fabiostar on Nov 1, 2020 17:07:06 GMT 1
holy shit thats ugly looking
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 1, 2020 17:12:02 GMT 1
I've had one like that before and it was trash
A 0.5mm groove needs a minimum +1mm to clear it out
If it's standard bore fine but if it's near 1mm over ...
Steve
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Post by fatfreddy on Nov 1, 2020 18:40:31 GMT 1
I've had one like that before and it was trash A 0.5mm groove needs a minimum +1mm to clear it out If it's standard bore fine but if it's near 1mm over ... Steve Err, how can I tell if it’s on standard bore? |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 1, 2020 19:42:21 GMT 1
I've had one like that before and it was trash A 0.5mm groove needs a minimum +1mm to clear it out If it's standard bore fine but if it's near 1mm over ... Steve Err, how can I tell if it’s on standard bore? Is there a number on the piston crown? No number = standard 64mm Any number is the oversize as in 25 in 0.25mm 150 is 1.5mm over Steve |
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Post by steeley on Nov 1, 2020 21:28:30 GMT 1
Whats up with you blokes . Get it welded up and bored out . Had a barrel buggered, cracked round the bottom ex side . Got it back into shape and had it welded up . Had it re bored and the chap called me in to say the tool didn't like the repair area . Don't get me wrong the tool was cutting the weld but was making a lot of racket . Any way got it sorted and have run the engine for years with no problems .
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Post by fatfreddy on Nov 1, 2020 23:31:21 GMT 1
Err, how can I tell if it’s on standard bore? Is there a number on the piston crown? No number = standard 64mm Any number is the oversize as in 25 in 0.25mm 150 is 1.5mm over Steve Cheers! I checked and both barrels are on standard bore so I may get away with it. |
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