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Post by alankelly on Apr 9, 2020 22:31:16 GMT 1
Hi all Hope your are all well and keeping safe A forum member has asked if it was possible to 3D print a replacement seat tang, and as normal I like a challenge (Like when I did the YPVS chain sliders) So here is the first prototype in PLA ready for test “fitting” (Tried to copy the tang shape as much as possible but have added a outer section to allow you to glue and screw the new tang to the old seat base) Plan now is to “test fit” the PLA prototype and once confirmed the design / shape. / size is OK I will then be planning to print a small batch but in the same white nylon as the sliders so they are nice and robust if there is any interest? Thinks cost will be about £20 including post in UK ( but will post world wide) as print time is about 15 hours as it’s quite a big print unlike the sliders that take only 5😳 So trying to judge demand, so my question is, who please would like one once I am in production, as when I did the sliders it went a bit mental so just need to plan a bit due to the long print time Think that’s all for now Any questions please feel free to pm me Catch up soon Best wishes Al
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Post by oldbritguy on Apr 9, 2020 23:13:52 GMT 1
Thats great Al. Another solution to a well known problem with the LC seats. I am looking for a seat just now (or even a base) and any that come up always have the front tangs damaged so once you are happy with the design and fit, put me down for one please. Is there no end to your creative skills? Top man John
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Post by 4l04ever on Apr 10, 2020 0:28:34 GMT 1
I think I have a base with a damaged tang, so could try one out for you. Happy to chop it up to make sure it will fit once the old part is removed, or could send down if it is needed so you can tweak the design to be a perfect fit??
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Post by KevtheRev on Apr 10, 2020 9:03:46 GMT 1
Very nice !
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Apr 10, 2020 9:08:23 GMT 1
I'm guessing glue and screws. Yes I'd be interested in at least 1. £20 sounds a bargain
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Post by alankelly on Apr 10, 2020 9:17:49 GMT 1
I'm guessing glue and screws. Yes I'd be interested in at least 1. £20 sounds a bargain Yes I have designed it with a nice flat base so you have a large surface area for an epoxy glue and then there are five holes to add additional fixings if needed Will pm you when I am up and running Stay safe Best wishes Al
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Post by steven on Apr 10, 2020 9:23:28 GMT 1
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 10, 2020 9:39:30 GMT 1
Fantastic effort there Al🙂 I bet you would sell more than a few of those. And at that price, it's a bargain🙂
Well done mate
Regards
Dusty😉
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Post by steven on Apr 10, 2020 9:53:35 GMT 1
..... I see on the telly news just now, that they are crying out for people with 3D printers to make stuff for the "war effort" ie face visors etc. Steven.
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Post by alankelly on Apr 10, 2020 10:00:07 GMT 1
Yes we have all our industrial printers running at work to produce for our staff as I work for BD and we are flat out making all the day to day critical to health drug delivery systems and stuff like Vacutainer (thats the glass vials with different colour tops) they use to take your blood Trouble is it’s the print time printer bed size and getting the right materials at the moment but a UK company has already produced a mould tool and can produce about 100k a week👍 as making about 1 every 7 seconds So if we could get 5 mould tools up and runnng that’s 1/2 a million a week
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Post by headcoats on Apr 10, 2020 10:49:50 GMT 1
Would the screw holes be better on the lower bit sticking out ? Is that bit of the seat base a thicker part ?
Never had one apart so don't know
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Post by rich on Apr 10, 2020 11:11:50 GMT 1
Hi Al, great idea and look very well made. However, the acid test will be in the fitting which will have to be spot on or the seat won't fit properly on the bike and may rub the tank or break off if it's under stress with the rider seated. The tang obviously needs to be in exactly the same position as the original. I would also be a lot happier with a positive method of attachment such as screws or rivets rather than relying on glue alone as the implications of it failing in use don't bear thinking about.
Not being negative and I guess if you have the skills to make the part that you have already thought of this so I will be watching with great interest!
Cheers, Rich
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Post by alankelly on Apr 10, 2020 11:22:10 GMT 1
Hi Rich
Yes the design requires the replacement tang to be glued and screwed using the 5 holes in the flange area
I think the best approx is attach first using a couple of screws and then test for fit then when you are happy with the position secure with glue and more screws using the five 5mm holes
And yes fitting in the correct position is needed so part in now in post and I am awaiting the results from test fitting of my tester to allow me to tweak the design if required then hopefully it will be full steam ahead
Catch up soon and stay safe
Best wishes Al
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Post by 4l04ever on Apr 10, 2020 11:22:27 GMT 1
The metal tang on the gully seats is just bolted on with two bolts, so having several should be good. With both epoxy glue and bolts it should be sound.
Just wondering what the seat base will look like with the tang gone. Will phone my mate, as he has one of my spares and get him to cut one off.
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Post by alankelly on Apr 10, 2020 11:30:26 GMT 1
Hi Rob
Yes I would be interested in seeing it with the tang missing
I think you would be left with a hole but not sure and that is why I have added this flange to allow you to fix it to another area of the seat base
Also many thanks for the kind offer of a seat base but for now if ok with you I will see how it goes first with my prototype test is I think once the tang is gone you will be left with just a flat face and it’s just getting the model correct for locating on the tank and maybe a tweak in height
Catch soon and stay safe
Best wishes Al
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Post by Shytalk on Apr 10, 2020 13:29:36 GMT 1
Al, just a thought on fitting / fixing, and I don’t know whether it’s possible as I haven’t got or seen a seat, is it possible to cut out a slot in the seat base including the broken / missing tang, and slide this replacement in underneath the plastic then glue and screw into place, it should add extra strength too............just a thought
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Post by bezzer on Apr 10, 2020 14:25:50 GMT 1
Al, That is immense!, well done mate. What a great solution for damaged/worn seat bases. I would like to add my name to the list please.
Best regards bezzer
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Post by alankelly on Apr 10, 2020 16:00:48 GMT 1
Hi Bezzer
Hope you are well
Name added to list and will be in touch once in production
Take care buddy
Best wishes Al
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Post by Delbert on Apr 10, 2020 17:05:00 GMT 1
Top job , I will keep it in mind when I find my next toy 👍🏻
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Post by 4l04ever on Apr 10, 2020 22:20:07 GMT 1
Fitting from the inside through a slot sounds a good option...
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Post by alankelly on Apr 10, 2020 22:43:12 GMT 1
Hi Rob
Yes we could do this
Maybe once the current design is proven I can do a version B which fits in a slot and then you can chose which type of replacement unit you want to fit as the slot idea takes a bit more time rather than fit the current one on the base outside
Catch up soon
Stay safe and best wishes Al
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Post by arrow on Apr 10, 2020 22:46:15 GMT 1
Nice work Al, well done.
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peterb
Weekend rider
Posts: 58
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Post by peterb on Apr 14, 2020 14:42:32 GMT 1
hi put me down for 2 when there ready thanks. does the material used be able to be plastic welded?
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Post by alankelly on Apr 14, 2020 15:06:37 GMT 1
Hi Peter
Ok I will add you to my order list and be in touch once the test one is proven for fit
No the material will be nylon like my replacement YPVS chain sliders
So you should be able to epoxy it and screw it to the original base used the 5 screw holes in the design
Catch up soon and stay safe
Best wishes Al
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neil
Thrash Merchant
my 125
Posts: 385
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Post by neil on Apr 15, 2020 12:18:34 GMT 1
Ace 👍
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Post by tell7437 on Apr 15, 2020 22:43:31 GMT 1
Just a thought, the centre hole could be elongated to get it in the exact position using one screw before final fitting. Brilliant that you can do this.
Trevor
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Post by alankelly on Apr 16, 2020 10:24:12 GMT 1
Hi Trevor How about this The modification to the part is to have two “slotted” holes 10mm long to allow you to tune its final position on the bike, then you could take dimensions glue in its correct position and then screw using the other holes? Any input welcome Best wishes Al
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Post by mannanan on Apr 16, 2020 10:49:21 GMT 1
Al, I am no design engineer but my layman’s thoughts on your original design were ‘ why not have slotted holes’. I felt I might make myself look silly by suggesting that so I am delighted that someone else mentioned it. I think your final design there is pretty much perfect unless someone else can see a problem. Well done indeed for making the effort and spending time on this. Hope it all turns out fine and others will no doubt benefits from your excellent work.
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Post by alankelly on Apr 17, 2020 19:34:41 GMT 1
Hi all Well the jury is back and it looks like the design is spot on👍 First I would like to say a big thank you to Alex (donkeychomp) for the suggestion and being my secret tester👍 Looks like it is an easy repair and here are some photos of the fitting Alex has kindly sent me that shows the steps needed (Note this one is not yet screwed but only glued for testing as Alex will finish the repair with a nylon production one) Next step is to produce the finished production item in the same white nylon as my replacement YPVS sliders (but in the mk2 version with the two slotted holes to aid getting it in the correct place if needed) For those that have asked for one many thanks and I will pm you once yours is ready but first need to get my nylon order as almost out☹️ Catch up with you all soon Stay safe all Best wishes Al
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Post by compo on Apr 17, 2020 19:38:41 GMT 1
Great solution
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