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Post by nick2020 on Mar 29, 2020 16:32:32 GMT 1
Hi guys, I have what I would think is too much movement on the rear sub-frame - basically moves the whole section with wheel attached by 1-3mm. Is it just the 2 bushes to change or do I need (if I can even get at the moment!!)anything else ie.chain guide or dust seals?
Thanks
nick
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Mar 29, 2020 16:38:34 GMT 1
What bike is it?
If its 4L1/4L0 I'm more familiar with that.
Firstly I would check the swingarm pivot bolt is correctly torqued - its quite a high value but can't recall off top off my head.
If that doesn't cure, then it could be missing shim betweem the swing arm end caps.
Also check you dont have wear in the rear shock mount pins, more likely the lower one but could be the top one.
Then if the above doesn't work, it probably is wear in the bushes, so they will need replacing. se either gen Yamaha ones, or good quality bronze replacements that are on the market, not cheap crap!
Good luck with it, let us know how you get on.
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Post by nick2020 on Mar 29, 2020 17:53:47 GMT 1
Thanks for the reply Shaun, it is an 4L1. I will check it out before I go any further. Regards Nick
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Post by rich on Mar 29, 2020 18:12:10 GMT 1
Probably wear in the lower shock pin or the holes in the top of the swingarm itself where the pin goes through.
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Post by oldelsieboy on Mar 29, 2020 19:09:19 GMT 1
Side to side movement will be pivot bushes, up & down will be shock pin.
OEB
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Post by earthman on Mar 29, 2020 19:35:57 GMT 1
Haven't the majority of 4LO/4L1 bikes got a tiny bit of up & down movement by now? 30 plus years of wear and tear on the hole basically??
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Mar 30, 2020 11:21:09 GMT 1
Haven't the majority of 4LO/4L1 bikes got a tiny bit of up & down movement by now? 30 plus years of wear and tear on the hole basically?? Just think how an old hooker feels then 🤣 Steve |
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Post by earthman on Mar 30, 2020 12:02:31 GMT 1
Haven't the majority of 4LO/4L1 bikes got a tiny bit of up & down movement by now? 30 plus years of wear and tear on the hole basically?? Just think how an old hooker feels then 🤣 Steve Lol, plastic surgery could probably fix that for her though. |
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Post by nick2020 on Mar 30, 2020 16:29:00 GMT 1
In the Haynes manual it only has a few of the torque settings are they listed in the other workshop manuals - looking for torque on rear sub-frame bolt.
Thanks
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Mar 30, 2020 16:38:45 GMT 1
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Post by nick2020 on Mar 30, 2020 18:07:55 GMT 1
Found it - 46.8 lbf ft. Thanks
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Post by earthman on Mar 31, 2020 7:45:35 GMT 1
If it's slight up and down movement, what do you guys normally do, weld hole up and drill correct size or make a bigger pin??
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Post by steeley on Mar 31, 2020 8:00:43 GMT 1
Hi , years ago i welded one up where it was worn and filed the weld back to get a good fit for the pin . Then i brush painted with a drop of 2k paint.
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Post by earthman on Mar 31, 2020 11:10:11 GMT 1
Hi , years ago i welded one up where it was worn and filed the weld back to get a good fit for the pin . Then i brush painted with a drop of 2k paint. Or drilling out/fitting a replaceable bush would be an idea, assuming that there's enough metal around the hole to start with. |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Mar 31, 2020 11:58:29 GMT 1
Back in the day it would simply be cut up a coke can to shim it or fill it with Araldite just to get it through the mot🤣
Steve
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Post by stusco on Mar 31, 2020 12:08:02 GMT 1
Note to self don’t buy a bike from Steve 😱
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Mar 31, 2020 12:18:16 GMT 1
Note to self don’t buy a bike from Steve 😱 Well not one I owned in the eighties 🤣🤣🤣 Steve |
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Post by earthman on Mar 31, 2020 14:01:14 GMT 1
Back in the day it would simply be cut up a coke can to shim it or fill it with Araldite just to get it through the mot🤣 Steve Lol, how thick were the metal of a coke can back then, thicker than today I bet. I think that even a modern can would be too thick to squeeze in mine, there is movement but it's tiny. |
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