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Post by dusty350 on Apr 19, 2020 10:18:42 GMT 1
Castellations go towards the bearing, so facing into the crank case. As Jon said, they are there to aid oiling on the right side. It's no coincidence that the castellations are just contacting the bearing once the seal is fitted. The seal has a rib around it's circumference which captures it in the casing, so it's been engineered to all fit properly. If you fit the seal with them facing outwards they don't come into contact with anything in the clutch case. The generator side is often fitted either way with no obvious "right or wrong" issues. This is my 400e crank, but the seals are virtually the same, and the fitting process is the same for Lc/Pv/aircooled etc; 20200403_204723 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20200403_204647 by dusty miller, on Flickr Hth Dusty
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RD350N1
Apr 26, 2020 19:11:47 GMT 1
Post by ERic350 on Apr 26, 2020 19:11:47 GMT 1
Have started rebuilding the block. Clearly I didn't take enough photos In the right side, at the top left of the clutch there is a hole that I know nothing to do with. Could it be that this has to do with the tachometer connection at the top of the block that is not used on my RD350N ? In that case I can leave it as it is ?
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Post by andy748 on Apr 26, 2020 20:04:43 GMT 1
Yep, it's the drive for the tacho, not needed on the N1. Andy.
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Post by ERic350 on May 6, 2020 13:08:47 GMT 1
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Post by ERic350 on May 18, 2020 12:04:42 GMT 1
Working from home. So did a leak down test on the engine in between. Found small leak. Fortunately at the inletside and easy to fix. Frame, now with side stand, is already waiting for his buddy
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Post by ERic350 on May 23, 2020 10:07:38 GMT 1
Front brake master cylinder lost it's paint. Gave it a blast with glass beads. Time to refurb. Done the same to clock panel. Decals arrived :-) Now only wait for 2K transparent semi gloss lacquer to give the parts a strong finish. In the mean time the engine is in. Time to give all loose parts their original place
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Post by ERic350 on May 30, 2020 9:14:56 GMT 1
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RD350N1
May 30, 2020 10:21:21 GMT 1
Post by LC_BOTT on May 30, 2020 10:21:21 GMT 1
Hi, have a look at Yogi's rebuild, I asked for a few loom pics too and there's some good pics you can enlarge for easier viewing. Ring terminal goes to coil/frame mount, and not sure, but green/yellow isn't connected at all.
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RD350N1
May 30, 2020 10:31:50 GMT 1
Post by ERic350 on May 30, 2020 10:31:50 GMT 1
Hi, have a look at Yogi's rebuild, I asked for a few loom pics too and there's some good pics you can enlarge for easier viewing. Ring terminal goes to coil/frame mount, and not sure, but green/yellow isn't connected at all. Thanks. Will have a look. Glad I can give the black ring terminal a place now. If I remember correct the TZR250 2MA had a same green/yellow what was not connected with anything. Maybe used in some other parts of the world for something.
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Post by ERic350 on Jun 2, 2020 21:07:26 GMT 1
The loom puzzle is coming along nicely. Waiting for a turn signal relay. Very happy with the tank. Did the red painting and used rim striping tape for the white line. Positioning side panels is a drama since multiple lugs are damaged. Tomorrow install decals and give all a 2K clear coat as the outside temp these days is perfect. Later repair and reinforce the lugs.
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RD350N1
Jun 2, 2020 22:09:21 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by oldbritguy on Jun 2, 2020 22:09:21 GMT 1
Coming on nicely Eric and looking great John
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RD350N1
Jun 2, 2020 23:24:32 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by veg on Jun 2, 2020 23:24:32 GMT 1
Nicely and bloody quickly 👍
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 3, 2020 21:11:59 GMT 1
Looking really good
I'd love to be able to do my own painting 🙁
Steve
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Post by ERic350 on Jun 3, 2020 21:31:19 GMT 1
Looking really good I'd love to be able to do my own painting 🙁 Steve Thanks. As the famous philoposer Nike would say: Just do it. Use of decals will make it more easy. Quality of this supplier was not that good. Had white lines on the edges of petrol tank decals I had to remove with surgical scalpel blade. But for now it will do. Start with good base of primer which is not going to react with any remaning old paint afer sanding it down. I use cheap primer from the Action, then apply thick layer of spray puddy, sand it down with 400 and 800 grid sandingpaper, another layer of primer and smoothen this with 800grid. Then use good 2K spray cans to apply color and first clearcoat. Do decals and final clear coat. Best temp for 2K lacker is around 20 / 25 degree for nice flowing, little wind in the garden and don't mind some colored plants in the end Some small dust particles I accept. Next step will be learning to polish them out. Next project will be the mono seat I bought a year before I bought the bike. No decal for. Have to do it the same way as the tank with masking tape.
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Post by ERic350 on Jun 5, 2020 11:39:05 GMT 1
About to start repairing the middle panels. The rear hinge seems to be the weak point as it's broken on both panels. Normaly I repair a panel with some old material, a piece of Lego and MEK giving it a strong fix. But in this case it looks the original construction is giving problems. I was thinking off giving the hinge additional strength by adding some aluminum support. Any ideas or tips on strengthening the hinges ?
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Post by marrcel on Jun 5, 2020 12:09:23 GMT 1
O yes i added some elastic band. I make pictures for you
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Post by marrcel on Jun 5, 2020 13:51:56 GMT 1
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Post by marrcel on Jun 5, 2020 13:54:20 GMT 1
Works from 1994. Replaced the bands one time.
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Post by ERic350 on Jun 5, 2020 14:24:43 GMT 1
Last evening did a lego piece and some MEK in a glass jar. Substance ready. Cut some pieces of old fairing. Sanded them a bit at an angle. Nice clean surfaces. Added some extra Lego substance I can grind off later. Join will be stronger than original due to chemical reaction. Happy with the result so far. Give it a day to harden and see how it looks then And see if I can add the elastic band upgrade.
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RD350N1
Jun 20, 2020 14:19:06 GMT 1
Post by ERic350 on Jun 20, 2020 14:19:06 GMT 1
Finaly received the OEM clutch cable. So after clutchcable the carbs can go in. Just not sure were all tubes have to go. 1 = petrol. 3 = overflow. What about 2 ? Connecting both carbs for some kind of balancing ?
Next picture have no clue. It's open. Same on both carbs. So one of it is inbetween the carbs and difficult to reach. Little high for overflow ? Just leave it as it is ?
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Post by marrcel on Jun 20, 2020 15:46:50 GMT 1
Between L and R carb there is a connection pipe for the choke at nr2. If your fuel tap is vacuum operated then there is a vac pipe to R carb nr3. But i have to check that.
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RD350N1
Jun 20, 2020 16:28:04 GMT 1
Post by ERic350 on Jun 20, 2020 16:28:04 GMT 1
Thanks. Riddle almost solved Yes, I expect them to be vacuum operated as the petrol tap of RD350LC is same as TDR250 which is vacuum operated. If nr.3 on the right tap is the vacuumline. It's quite hidden. And on left carb is just overflow ? TDR250 carb. Vacuumline on top of left: TZR250 2MA Vacuumline on top of left:
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RD350N1
Jun 20, 2020 16:36:37 GMT 1
Post by ERic350 on Jun 20, 2020 16:36:37 GMT 1
And now I think of it. Going to look for a normal, non-vacuum operated petrol tap. I have a lot of leaking problems with them on my TZR and TDR. Sometimes even when new. And expensive ! Recently put an simple on/off switch inbetween to prevent leakage
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Post by LC_BOTT on Jun 20, 2020 20:21:51 GMT 1
Nice work on the panels, I quite enjoy plastic repairs, as had to do a fair few on mine.
On your pic with the finger pointing, that's the oil injection point, should see them on both carbs.
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Post by Yogi on Jun 20, 2020 20:27:31 GMT 1
Getting there mate, keep up the good work 👍
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Post by ERic350 on Jun 21, 2020 8:16:22 GMT 1
Nice work on the panels, I quite enjoy plastic repairs, as had to do a fair few on mine. On your pic with the finger pointing, that's the oil injection point, should see them on both carbs. Thanks. Didn't yet connected the oilpump lines. On the TDR/TZR the oil line is mounted on the intake manifold. Close to the casing. Now that I think about it, the mounting of the RD is mounted differently. Another ridle solved
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RD350N1
Jun 21, 2020 10:30:52 GMT 1
Post by ERic350 on Jun 21, 2020 10:30:52 GMT 1
OK. Now I understand why I did not notice. The nipple for the oil supply is absent on the right sice carb. Channel is open. Where could I find a replacement nipple? And how do you mount it? With Loctite? IMG_0057 (Large)
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RD350N1
Jun 21, 2020 12:42:04 GMT 1
Post by ERic350 on Jun 21, 2020 12:42:04 GMT 1
And while I'm fighting the airbox another carb question Are there for these two screws initial settings ? The first I recognize and think advice is to screw it fully in and then turn back one turn for a starting point. Screw 2 is new to me. Don't remember seeing this on a TZR250. What would the initial setup for this one be ? Thanks again from mr. learn it myself
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Post by tony2stroke on Jun 21, 2020 12:53:12 GMT 1
Number 1 is tick over adjustment screw, number 2 is air screw, that is the 1 you screw all the way in and turn out 1 full screw and 1/4 to 1/2 turn to set air at tickover.
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Post by tony2stroke on Jun 21, 2020 13:19:44 GMT 1
OK. Now I understand why I did not notice. The nipple for the oil supply is absent on the right sice carb. Channel is open. Where could I find a replacement nipple? And how do you mount it? With Loctite? IMG_0057 (Large)I didn't notice this post, you can use some brass tube 3mm outer diameter, I used it on a GT200 carb, I think its the same size as RD as both use Mukini carbs, I have plenty to send you enough to repair your carb, about 2 inches and you can cut off any extra, gently hacksawing, it should just tap in with the plastic end of a screwdriver, be gentle, I put some superglue on the outer and did this, it worked, it does not have the flair'd end, just straight tube, so you will need some stronger than standard clips to hold the oil feed pipe on, just measure the outer diameter of oil feed pipe once fitted to the new nipple and order some clips off ebay, if you PM me your address I will send you a little bit enough to do the job.
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