|
Post by ERic350 on Mar 24, 2020 16:44:29 GMT 1
|
|
|
RD350N1
Mar 24, 2020 17:14:11 GMT 1
Post by ERic350 on Mar 24, 2020 17:14:11 GMT 1
Outside was rusty but engine felt very good. Could engine turn very easy. Cilinders are without scratching. Looks like it's never opened. Generator still has a drop of paint on it from the factory ? Only strange thing are the numbers on top and bottom casing. 3419. Strangely this number is not related to the engine or frame number. As the engine has been standing for 10 maybe 20 years. The number is also not refering to rebuilding week-year number like tires. Never seen numbers like this on my TZR's. No idea...
|
|
|
RD350N1
Mar 24, 2020 17:17:16 GMT 1
Post by ERic350 on Mar 24, 2020 17:17:16 GMT 1
And no side stand on it. Never seen RD350N without side stand. Is not grinded off. Only center stand on it. Meanwhile got a mountingpoint which has to be welded on. And also bought me a bottom fairing.
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Mar 24, 2020 17:24:41 GMT 1
The numbers on the crank cases are engraved with a number as they are a matched pair
They were done when the cases were machined
Top and bottom should have the same number
Steve
|
|
|
Post by Yogi on Mar 24, 2020 17:44:07 GMT 1
You will need to move the bottom mounts to fit the belly pan 350n never had one
The mounts are for the 350f with fairing
Matt 🧸
|
|
|
RD350N1
Mar 24, 2020 19:44:30 GMT 1
Post by ERic350 on Mar 24, 2020 19:44:30 GMT 1
You will need to move the bottom mounts to fit the belly pan 350n never had one The mounts are for the 350f with fairing Matt 🧸 Thanks. I knew there was no belly pan on the RD350N but I like the look. Will also do a superbike handlebar. So the picture I found was misleading. Thant mount seems to be on my bike in the same place. But maybe it's a centimeter off. Hope the top part will fit without adaptation. Will check it when welding the mounting point for side stand.
|
|
|
Post by Yogi on Mar 24, 2020 19:51:10 GMT 1
The bike pictured is an earlier model Your bike has different front and back end like my 350n1
|
|
|
Post by ERic350 on Apr 4, 2020 17:30:06 GMT 1
Started rebuilding my frontfork. Getting the inner fork out took quite some force. After the innertube was out some of the metal rings remained inside. Can somebody give me advice how to place the metal ring in the bottom ? The parts manual is not realy clear on this. Does it have to go underneath the lower ring (1) or above the lower ring (2) ? Thanks!
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 4, 2020 18:16:37 GMT 1
Position 2
After you slide the stanchion into the lower you fit the other bush as it sits in the alloy lower
Steve
|
|
|
Post by ERic350 on Apr 5, 2020 9:22:58 GMT 1
Rebuilding the N1 frontfork was no option because of all the rust. So got myself a N2 fork. Time to compare Outer tube seems to be the same with same code on it. Only difference is the drainplug beeing a hex plug on the N1 and a philips screw on the N2. Top caps differ. N1 has it bolted on while N2 uses a snap ring. The spring of the N1 is lighter, about 1 cm longer, has an (original ?) aluminum 8mm spacer and the internal piston has 2 small holes. Were the N2 has havier spring and 1 hole in the piston. So almost the same but not exactly N1 left. N2 on the right.
|
|
|
Post by LC_BOTT on Apr 5, 2020 19:28:07 GMT 1
Nice info on the fork differences, just about to do mine, so perfect timing thanks. Keep the pics coming, and good luck.
|
|
|
Post by ERic350 on Apr 7, 2020 11:15:02 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 7, 2020 13:33:41 GMT 1
You are making great progress!
|
|
|
Post by ERic350 on Apr 7, 2020 15:17:41 GMT 1
You are making great progress! Yep. Today melted a side panel while getting of the decal and sticky glue. Panel is no longer straight At least the frame had only superficial rust, was easy to clean and respray. Base coat is there. Next days will do 2K black and clear coat.
|
|
|
Post by LC_BOTT on Apr 7, 2020 15:23:51 GMT 1
I'm no expert, but shouldn't the sidestand mount be welded to some re-inforcement, thats also welded onto the standard frame tube? like the fat bit, further along in your photo. Are you sure there was never a sidestand fitted, not heard of that before? or am I wrong as usual. (no one else has mentioned it)
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 7, 2020 15:28:42 GMT 1
I'm no expert, but shouldn't the sidestand mount be welded to some re-inforcement, thats also welded onto the standard frame tube? like the fat bit, further along in your photo. Are you sure there was never a sidestand fitted, not heard of that before? or am I wrong as usual. (no one else has mentioned it) Afraid not Its why it gets ripped off the frame Steve
|
|
|
Post by ERic350 on Apr 7, 2020 15:44:09 GMT 1
I'm no expert, but shouldn't the sidestand mount be welded to some re-inforcement, thats also welded onto the standard frame tube? like the fat bit, further along in your photo. Are you sure there was never a sidestand fitted, not heard of that before? or am I wrong as usual. (no one else has mentioned it) The frame was totaly clean. Bought it from a lady in Germany who had it from the beginning. It was never on it and the frame was clean. No proof at all of grinding it of. I've compared the location with other bikes and determined the angle when the engine was still in it. Hope it will work. Will find out when bike comes together. Fingers crossed.
|
|
|
Post by ERic350 on Apr 10, 2020 20:14:33 GMT 1
While the RD350 is being built to standard spec for a Dutch license plate, its young cousin can test the FZR600 front fork with wider rims. In the future should go on the RD350
|
|
|
RD350N1
Apr 13, 2020 21:11:09 GMT 1
Post by ERic350 on Apr 13, 2020 21:11:09 GMT 1
Today learned a lesson. Don't change Clutch Arm Bearing if you don't need to. Getting it out is a bitch. First tried it with screwdriver but metal case of bearing was not bending. Only breaking pieces of. In the end got it out with bearing pulley tool.
|
|
|
Post by stusco on Apr 13, 2020 21:38:57 GMT 1
Thats about right heat makes it easier but i see it been painted already
|
|
|
Post by veg on Apr 14, 2020 9:57:30 GMT 1
German Bikes tend to be far better treated than UK bikes one reason my latest was from there. It was still on std bore at 18,000 miles and in far better std condition. Combination of the tuv test, and the German mentality. Rather have an import than a ‘std’ UK bike owned by 20 yobs
|
|
|
RD350N1
Apr 14, 2020 12:26:01 GMT 1
Post by ERic350 on Apr 14, 2020 12:26:01 GMT 1
German Bikes tend to be far better treated than UK bikes one reason my latest was from there. It was still on std bore at 18,000 miles and in far better std condition. Combination of the tuv test, and the German mentality. Rather have an import than a ‘std’ UK bike owned by 20 yobs Yep. Mine is also on standard bore and cilinders look clean. Don't think bike had to work very hard with it's reduced 27 horsepower doing 138 kph max speed
|
|
|
RD350N1
Apr 18, 2020 17:37:32 GMT 1
Post by ERic350 on Apr 18, 2020 17:37:32 GMT 1
Refurbing the switchgear. Have to wait for the outside temperature to rise to 20+ degrees before I can finalize items with 2K semi gloss. In the meantime clean the bottom casing. Dishwash meister keeps an eye on the process Replaced seals. Closed the case. Tested the gears and crank. Tomorrow close it definitely with Threebond.
|
|
|
Post by Yogi on Apr 18, 2020 18:37:10 GMT 1
Hi Eric
Did you know your right hand crank seal should be the other way round and have the castellations on the inside If your using the Haynes manual it’s printed wrong Coming along nicely 👍
Matt 🧸
|
|
|
RD350N1
Apr 18, 2020 19:35:18 GMT 1
Post by ERic350 on Apr 18, 2020 19:35:18 GMT 1
Hi Eric Did you know your right hand crank seal should be the other way round and have the castellations on the inside If your using the Haynes manual it’s printed wrong Coming along nicely 👍 Matt 🧸 Thanks. I was not sure about it. The original seal had it's castellations also on the inside. I have Haynes but it is of little help. Bought the original Serice manual. Both service manual pag. 3-52 as well as a very nicely documented TDR250 rebuilding pfd show castellations to the outside. So I'm not sure. I am self-taught who learned everything through google, youtube and fora So you can make me believe everything. Any final advice for the crank seal? Doing castellations to the inside make them nicely connect to the bearing. People always told me a seal gets pressurised from the inside therefore put the exposed groove on the inside so that the seal expands and seals itself. This would mean the castellations towards the outside. As is shown in the official servicemanual pag. 3-52 and the TDR250 rebuilding pdf.
|
|
|
Post by Yogi on Apr 18, 2020 19:54:36 GMT 1
|
|
|
RD350N1
Apr 18, 2020 20:01:07 GMT 1
Post by ERic350 on Apr 18, 2020 20:01:07 GMT 1
Thanks for bringing it to my attention and the link, Matt. The proof of the pudding is in the eating. So inside facing it will be
|
|
|
RD350N1
Apr 18, 2020 20:12:45 GMT 1
Post by Yogi on Apr 18, 2020 20:12:45 GMT 1
I’ve opened working engines with them in both ways so who knows 🤔
Maybe it doesn’t actually matter 🙈. So why are the castellations actually there 🤯
|
|
|
Post by andy748 on Apr 19, 2020 9:07:02 GMT 1
Hi Eric, I have a genuine Yamaha 31k engine build manual and it's castellations facing inwards. Andy.
|
|
|
Post by jon on Apr 19, 2020 9:55:06 GMT 1
I’ve opened working engines with them in both ways so who knows 🤔 Maybe it doesn’t actually matter 🙈. So why are the castellations actually there 🤯 I’m led to believe they allow the 2T to oil the bearing better. What’s also interesting is the fact this engine has apparently not been split, and it shows the alternator side seal with the gold outwards as I and a few others always do. Adds fuel to the recent debate rdlccrazy.proboards.com/post/471578Jon
|
|