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Post by charles13 on May 13, 2022 0:30:45 GMT 1
Managed an hour in the garage last night and fitted the Vape power dyno Really nice piece of kit and fitted with no drama. Used the clock to time at 2mm BTDC Used a permanent marker to mark TDC and 2mm before so I can check with the strobe once running. Another job ticked off John Old Brit, what’s the model # on that Power Dynamo as I am getting one from re-mx on this side of the pond and he’s not sure what model I need (different tapers?) He doesn’t know because they never got the LC in America. Mine is a 4L0 Charlie
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Post by JonW on May 13, 2022 1:43:56 GMT 1
Managed an hour in the garage last night and fitted the Vape power dyno Really nice piece of kit and fitted with no drama. Used the clock to time at 2mm BTDC Used a permanent marker to mark TDC and 2mm before so I can check with the strobe once running. Another job ticked off John Old Brit, what’s the model # on that Power Dynamo as I am getting one from re-mx on this side of the pond and he’s not sure what model I need (different tapers?) He doesn’t know because they never got the LC in America. Mine is a 4L0 Charlie Charlie, the crank is the same taper as the banshee/RZ.
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Post by charles13 on May 13, 2022 1:51:28 GMT 1
Jon, I don’t want to hijack this amazing build thread but; he says there are also 2 different length shafts Thanks Charlie
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Post by JonW on May 13, 2022 4:59:01 GMT 1
Jon, I don’t want to hijack this amazing build thread but; he says there are also 2 different length shafts Thanks Charlie Interesting, Ive fitted the LC flywheel/stator on the RZ/Banshee crank and not noticed any issue.
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Post by oldbritguy on May 13, 2022 20:05:01 GMT 1
Jon/Charles The model fitted to the LC is #711379900. The kit was supplied by Mutts which came with the literature showing the different crank tapers. I think the stator and pick-up fits a number of RD models and a different flywheel is spec’s depending on the crank. Dave also provided some great fitting tips. I double checked the distance from the mount face behind the stator to the end of the crank taper and it was 51mm. This matched the 7113 system. Happy. I think the smaller measurement which has a slight shoulder at the seal is for an air cooled model. I will stand corrected though. It would be simple enough for you to check the distance on your own motor however I would bet it will be 51mm or there abouts. Hope this helps John.
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Post by oldbritguy on May 13, 2022 21:56:48 GMT 1
Does anyone remember that character from the Fast Show who could never make up his mind or make a decision on anything? I think I have become that guy I asked a while ago for some thoughts on fitting Boyesen dual stage reeds and got a mixed bag of opinions which threw me further into disarray. So tonight I made a decision I dug out the Boyesens, a new set of std Yam steel petals and a set of carbon fibre ones and picked one set. Carbon. The good thing is I can always change them over if I am not happy Laid everything out and started assembling. Newly plated reed stops and screws at the ready plus a drop of Loctite just for peace of mind Now we have a pair of reed blocks ready to fit Now I have to decide whether to fit spacer blocks or not. John
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Post by donkeychomp on May 13, 2022 22:17:31 GMT 1
Alex
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Post by oldbritguy on May 13, 2022 22:26:51 GMT 1
🤣🤣🤣🤣
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Post by yamark on May 15, 2022 19:27:41 GMT 1
Nice work John, I had to space my pick ups to get them into the correct position.
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Post by JonW on May 23, 2022 3:24:08 GMT 1
Haha, get the Trap Door reeds onto ebay as your next job lol
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Post by gra426 on May 23, 2022 15:14:16 GMT 1
Build seems to be moving along nicely now John. Good work. 👍
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Post by oldbritguy on May 29, 2022 20:43:13 GMT 1
Made a few big steps with assembly which I will post up soon however had a go at making a repair to one of the carbs which may or may not be fitted to this build. I have a set of 31k carbs ready to go so these may get used on something depending on how the repair holds out. These are 4L0-01 carbs which came with the bike but had some internal damage. Unfortunately I never took any before photos but the damage was on one of the posts inside the float bowl. The ones the pin goes through to allow the float to pivot on. When I say damaged I mean the post was snapped off at the pivot. I used a piece of brass rod turned down and tapped to 4mm, carefully cut, drilled and tapped the remaining part of the post in the carb and screwed the brass into the carb. I has two shots at this as the first was too short (like a bad dental implant ) Then out with the little files and shaped the piece as close as possible to the other side and wide enough to hold the float. Then drilled through the existing hole for the pin to go through. Then try upside down to make sure the float valve doesn't fall out if I run out of fuel Seems to be working ok and with the repair being brass it should be fine in the float bowl environment. If it doesn't work then I have nothing to lose (except maybe an expensive engine rebuild ) John
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Post by yamark on May 29, 2022 20:58:18 GMT 1
Top draw work, and solution John . I appreciate the work involved in salvaging parts. Great work mate- looking forward to more updates Cheers, Mark
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Post by donkeychomp on May 29, 2022 21:27:01 GMT 1
Very inventive! Always good to see things being repaired rather than binned.
Alex
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