Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 30, 2020 4:55:00 GMT 1
Whatever you do, do not touch that frame with your bare hands
Always put on cotton gloves or similar, if you don't your finger prints will show on the paint for many years to come, or the paint won't take to the bare metal
If you have already then clean the frame down with a non deposit solvent eg IPA
Your wheels came up a treat, did you sand back the machining marks on the spokes ?
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tooch
Weekend rider
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Post by tooch on May 30, 2020 4:57:47 GMT 1
Mmmm welding frames & swing arms not much fun... Link is down your way too if you need your crank rebuilt. Luv how rims turned out,your doing a great job of it. Is he out Lilydale way? I vaguely recall seeing that there’s someone out that way who rebuilds cranks. Hope so, as I’m not far from there. Thanks mate!
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tooch
Weekend rider
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Post by tooch on May 30, 2020 5:00:00 GMT 1
Whatever you do, do not touch that frame with your bare hands Always put on cotton gloves or similar, if you don't your finger prints will show on the paint for many years to come, or the paint won't take to the bare metal If you have already then clean the frame down with a non deposit solvent eg IPA Your wheels came up a treat, did you sand back the machining marks on the spokes ? Don’t worry, I’ll give it a good clean before priming and painting. It still needs welding so it’s nowhere near ready for paint yet Cheers! Yep I sanded them down, mostly to get some of the scratches etc out. The machining marks are still visible, just lessened.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 30, 2020 13:39:12 GMT 1
Wow, You've got to look real close to see the marks, that's awesome
How did you get them so shiny ?, I only ended up getting polish in mine until I cleaned them using a tooth brush
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Post by JonW on May 30, 2020 13:47:31 GMT 1
Yes Link is the man for your crank, hes done loads for LB and I over the years.
Thats a nasty looking split in the frame unless its a smudge... :/
Ive welded in new sections into rusty frames before, but its not fun. Id defo get it sorted before powdercoating / painting tho, one of the good things about blasting is that it proves you have solid metal.
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tooch
Weekend rider
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Post by tooch on Jun 3, 2020 12:56:49 GMT 1
Wow, You've got to look real close to see the marks, that's awesome How did you get them so shiny ?, I only ended up getting polish in mine until I cleaned them using a tooth brush Thanks Sanded down to 400 grit and then just used Autosol and a dremel. Could have probably got them even shinier if I'd sanded more and gone to a finer grit!
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Jun 3, 2020 13:00:05 GMT 1
Yes Link is the man for your crank, hes done loads for LB and I over the years. Thats a nasty looking split in the frame unless its a smudge... :/ Ive welded in new sections into rusty frames before, but its not fun. Id defo get it sorted before powdercoating / painting tho, one of the good things about blasting is that it proves you have solid metal. That split was the rusty bit that I took a closeup of on the first page of this thread. I enlarged it a bit to probe it to check how bad it was. Not going to weld a new section in, but will weld the hole up (before painting/powdercoating of course!). Couple of other small spots to weld up too.
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Post by JonW on Jun 3, 2020 14:15:36 GMT 1
Welding will work, but you may have to chase the holes a bit as the steel round the hole will be very thin etc.
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Jun 3, 2020 22:07:30 GMT 1
Welding will work, but you may have to chase the holes a bit as the steel round the hole will be very thin etc. Got a family friend who has been a professional welder/boilermaker for decades, he will be able to sort it
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Jul 23, 2020 7:14:01 GMT 1
Ok, long time no update! I've had a little bit of progress on this lately. Seeing as I live in the COVID-19 capital of Australia (Melbourne), and we are once again in lockdown, I decided to crack on with as much of this as I could do at home. Firstly, got my family friend to weld up the rusty bits for me: I had totally forgotten to point out to him another bit that needed repairing, one of the bolt holes at the rear of the frame. The plate and nut was completely missing. So I decided to sort it out myself, cut up some scrap in my shed and visited a friend in my street and used his MIG welder. I surprised myself that I could actually do it, and it has me wanting my own welding setup now After all this was done, I thought I'd give painting a go. Worst case scenario if it doesn't work out I'm only out of pocket $80-100 in paint, and I could just get it blasted and powdered anyway. Started with the swing arm. Etch primer done First couple of coats of paint. Forgot to take a finished pic though After I was satisfied with this, I decided to start on the frame. It's bloody cold here so my plan was to keep it inside to keep it warm (much to my wife's delight!), and take it outside to paint, let the paint flash off and then bring it back inside to cure. Seemed to work out. Very happy with the result! I'm considering putting a clear coat on it, but can't seem to get an answer about whether or not a 2K clear is compatible with an epoxy enamel? Also painted my calipers and cured them in my BBQ And received my oil pump back from Arrow I think my next step will be to get some tyres sorted, so I can get the suspension and wheels back on the frame and start reassembly.
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Post by JonW on Jul 23, 2020 14:28:28 GMT 1
Great progress!
I hate White Knight paint with a passion, but see how you go with it. Defo test anything you want to put over it as it has a habit of being very slow to fully dry.
Thats a proper camera there, I assume you work for ABC News?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2020 15:31:43 GMT 1
I’m with a Jon on the paint, you have an advantage though you’ve learnt to paint with a rattle can, 2 pac clear will fry that paint Unfortunately the cheaper pains will dull very rapidly in our sun
I use Spray Max 2 pac, it’s in a can you shake the pigment first then add the activator through a valve on the end of the can and shake again, you get about 4 hours before the paint hardens in the can
It come out of the can really well and gives a really good finish, if you get one of those spray can adapters it makes like a spray gun and a lot easier too and you can use clear cost over the top of it
It’s about $26 a can and you can get a large range of colours in it
Pm me your email if you would like some pics of bits I’ve done
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Jul 23, 2020 22:31:04 GMT 1
Great progress! I hate White Knight paint with a passion, but see how you go with it. Defo test anything you want to put over it as it has a habit of being very slow to fully dry. Thats a proper camera there, I assume you work for ABC News? I ummed and ahhed for a while about the paint, but I’d read good things about it on other forums. People were reporting good results on dirt bike frames and similar which have a harder life than this bike ever will. Hopefully it holds up, or I’ll be disassembling the bike again! Well spotted, yes I’m a cameraman for ABC!
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Jul 23, 2020 22:40:30 GMT 1
I’m with a Jon on the paint, you have an advantage though you’ve learnt to paint with a rattle can, 2 pac clear will fry that paint Unfortunately the cheaper pains will dull very rapidly in our sun I use Spray Max 2 pac, it’s in a can you shake the pigment first then add the activator through a valve on the end of the can and shake again, you get about 4 hours before the paint hardens in the can It come out of the can really well and gives a really good finish, if you get one of those spray can adapters it makes like a spray gun and a lot easier too and you can use clear cost over the top of it It’s about $26 a can and you can get a large range of colours in it Pm me your email if you would like some pics of bits I’ve done Hey thanks for that. I chose this particular paint as out of the ones available locally (Bunnings/Supercheap Auto) it seems durable and White Knight claim it’s UV resistant. I guess we will wait and see! I don’t plan on leaving this bike out in the elements, it’ll be covered up when not in use so hopefully that will help too. If I have to to do it again at any point then yeah I’ll go with a 2 stage system like you’ve described above. Lockdown kind of made this difficult for me unfortunately. I wanted to get some work done on it and restriction on unnecessary travel really limited what products I could get. Hopefully I won’t regret it too soon!
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Post by JonW on Jul 24, 2020 1:25:57 GMT 1
Great progress! I hate White Knight paint with a passion, but see how you go with it. Defo test anything you want to put over it as it has a habit of being very slow to fully dry. Thats a proper camera there, I assume you work for ABC News? I ummed and ahhed for a while about the paint, but I’d read good things about it on other forums. People were reporting good results on dirt bike frames and similar which have a harder life than this bike ever will. Hopefully it holds up, or I’ll be disassembling the bike again! Well spotted, yes I’m a cameraman for ABC! Cool. I guess working from home in the current pandemic climate doesnt work too well when you need to be out and about for work at a moments notice. Stay safe mate!
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tooch
Weekend rider
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Post by tooch on Jul 24, 2020 3:48:52 GMT 1
I ummed and ahhed for a while about the paint, but I’d read good things about it on other forums. People were reporting good results on dirt bike frames and similar which have a harder life than this bike ever will. Hopefully it holds up, or I’ll be disassembling the bike again! Well spotted, yes I’m a cameraman for ABC! Cool. I guess working from home in the current pandemic climate doesnt work too well when you need to be out and about for work at a moments notice. Stay safe mate! Yeah, the very nature of this job means we are out in public constantly! We've changed a lot of work practices though and we are all pretty vigilant about hygiene and keeping equipment and vehicles clean. I think some of the changes we've made are very good and will hopefully stick (if and) when all of this madness is over.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2020 16:31:46 GMT 1
You do a great job in reporting the news
I echo Jon’s comments and really hope you take care, stay safe and most importantly stay well
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tooch
Weekend rider
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Post by tooch on Jul 26, 2020 12:16:35 GMT 1
You do a great job in reporting the news I echo Jon’s comments and really hope you take care, stay safe and most importantly stay well Thank you mate, I appreciate that
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tooch
Weekend rider
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Post by tooch on Jul 26, 2020 12:20:03 GMT 1
Went out and bought a work bench today. Got sick of working on the floor like a Thai scooter mechanic, and my back can't handle working like that for long anymore. Had a very limited space that I could use for a bench in this tiny shed, but this was a good fit and is very sturdy unlike most of the cheap and small ones. Once I finish this bike the next project is to remove this shed and put a much bigger one in it's place, but this bench will do the job for now and can also be expanded in size later on
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Post by JonW on Jul 28, 2020 2:26:39 GMT 1
That looks pretty good and will defo make your life easier. I felt the same euphoria you had when I got a bike lift lol
Ive got wheels on a very similar shelf unit so i can push it about the place.
Can I ask where you got it as I'd like to buy some of those plastic tops for mine assuming the spars are the same size.
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Jul 28, 2020 23:03:01 GMT 1
That looks pretty good and will defo make your life easier. I felt the same euphoria you had when I got a bike lift lol Ive got wheels on a very similar shelf unit so i can push it about the place. Can I ask where you got it as I'd like to buy some of those plastic tops for mine assuming the spars are the same size. A bike lift is my absolute dream! Hoping I'll be able to fit one in my future expanded shed! This one was from Bunnings, it's De Walt brand.
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Aug 6, 2020 7:34:57 GMT 1
New rear wheel bearings and fresh BT46's fitted! Now I can start reassembling the frame and have it rolling, super excited to get started reassembly. Then I can start on the engine. The bloke at the tyre shop's face lit up when I walked in, "RZ wheels!" he exclaimed. I said to him "you've got a good eye!" and he took out his phone and showed me a picture of him racing an RZ250 in New Zealand in the 80s. We spent ages talking about RZ's and other bikes, very cool. Part of the reason I love bikes so much is the conversations they bring out with strangers.
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cnkxu1
Thrash Merchant
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Post by cnkxu1 on Aug 17, 2020 9:16:29 GMT 1
I am also located in Melbourne and have a RD350LC, RD250LC, 3*250 YPVS and a 350 YPVS. One RZ250 has a full fairing and one has a bikini. The other 250 has a box of bits which might make a full fairing. I bought all these a bit at a time from Queensland, Tasmania and Victoria many years ago. Other projects came up pushing the bike restos down the priority list. I have a few cars at my friend's factory that I work on in my spare time. I restored a Porsche 924 as a tribute to the number 8 entry from the Repco Reliability Trial in 1979 and drove it around Australia this time last year in the Repco Reliability Retrial. In stage 2 of iso, I started pulling the RD350LC apart at home as I could not get to the factory. It is not in too bad a condition and I am going through the same decision about painting the frame. I picked up an Indian tank a few years ago and the quality is pretty bad from construction and paint point of view. They just did not sand and fill enough before painting but it fits ok and does not look too bad. It is a good thing I did not ride the bike at all, as every nut and bolt was just past finger tight as though the previous owner slapped it back together to sell. I should start a blog as you have done.
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Sept 9, 2020 11:26:08 GMT 1
Minor update. Plugging away at this slowly. Painted/polished a bunch of bits and pieces while waiting for other things to arrive slowly in the post. COVID lockdown is very restrictive in Melbourne, and most stores are closed or only allowing click and collect. Australia Post is struggling big time and deliveries which would normally take 2-3 days are taking weeks. Anyway! Found a decent set of used side covers cheap. This is good as one of mine was plain white, and the other had a ruined decal. These ones are not perfect but look fine. I'm not respraying any of the other panels on the bike for the time being, so these will do. One has had a dodgy riveted repair and also a crack in it which I've glued and plastic welded, and will fix up with some fine filler and paint. It won't be obvious when fitted anyway Purchased all new brake rotors front and rear New sprockets and chain Cheap ebay blood pressure testing kit to make my leakdown tester And slowly starting to look like a motorcycle again. Hopefully I'll get a few hours on the weekend to start bolting some more bits on
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Post by flames on Sept 9, 2020 12:34:29 GMT 1
Great job. Starting to take shape now.
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Post by JonW on Sept 9, 2020 13:55:00 GMT 1
Defo taking shape! What did you decide with the disk issue in the end?
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Sept 9, 2020 20:46:08 GMT 1
Defo taking shape! What did you decide with the disk issue in the end? I went with the MTX rotors. I did lots of looking around at the different options, and these appeared to be exactly the same rotor as what many other more well known brands (ie Metal Gear and others) are selling for more money. Not to mention they were in stock in Australia and free postage. I’ll keep a very close eye on them once the bike is being ridden, but I’m confident they will do the job for what I need.
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Sept 14, 2020 1:39:30 GMT 1
Bit more mucking about on the weekend. Got front and rear brakes mounted back up. Polished up the RHS footpeg hanger and mounted it and the rear brake pedal. Unfortunately as I was attempting to torque up the caliper bolts, one of the rear ones stripped out far earlier than the required torque . Time to buy an M10 helicoil kit Decided to give the tank a good looking over. I always knew it would need work, but appeared to be holding fuel ok despite the crappy looking exterior and very bad looking liner (Kreem?). But I decided to see how bad the rust bubbles were. Unfortunately my fears were confirmed when I picked one rust bubble with my fingernail and it immediately started leaking fuel. Glad I found out now though rather than after remounting it to a nice clean bike. As you can see it's had previous patch work done to it, so it's far from immaculate, but the top 3/4 of the tank are original paint and not looking terrible aside from some small dents. Here's what the inside looks like. Shite! I peeled off a piece of the rubbish liner inside so I could work out what to dissolve it with. I didn't have any pure acetone on hand so experimented with some of my wife's nail polish remover. After it soaking for about half an hour and me stirring the bottle around a little bit, this is what it did. So that's a good thing. Some pure acetone and some screws or a length of chain to agitate it should get most of it off pretty easily. So my plan of attack is as follows: -Acetone and screws/chain to remove old liner. Will probably take several attempts. -Evaporust or just vinegar to neutralise the rust -JB Weld tank repair or just solder to fill the external holes -Caswell epoxy tank sealing kit -Do my best to patch up the affected paint This will all probably be "temporary" either for as long as it lasts, or until I want to shell out the money for one of those Japanese repro tanks and a paint job, or I stumble across that elusive excellent condition original tank
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Post by JonW on Sept 14, 2020 3:48:18 GMT 1
I'm sure you googled how to remove Kreem and it said Acetone would dissolve it, Ive found like you that it needed a bit more work that that, but yes it could be made to work. Things like MEK work better but will kill you if inhaled so I'd steer clear of those.
Your Kreeme looks like its already flaking and mostly gone, so thats a good thing - youre half way there! Use a bit of chain or some thin bendy wire with old nuts threaded on it and then twisted round at each end nut to form a snake to rattle around and scrape the rest of it out. IMHO just chucking screws will have you spending ages to pull em out with a magnet on a stick.
Vinegar will work on the tank to remove the rust, it takes time (days, but does work). Use the chain as well to get the worst out as that will help with loose chunks and make sure you do the roof, it will need it from condensation. you can look up the outlet and see how clean it is with a torch.
Repairing holes is an interesting one. I weld but beware it can take time on very very low settings to chase to find the thicker steel, but i like that as its solid. Bear in mind that where there is a hole there is thin metal all around that hole, getting thicker as it fans out, until the next hole lol.
Do any soaking in a tub or all your rust eating fluid will be over the floor as at this point even when you feel its solid your rust eater will probably eat a hole where it eats the rust that was keeping the fluid in.
What i will say is that doing tanks is a process that takes quite a bit of time. you cant rush it or you will just be wasting all the work as the liner will fail.
I use KBS's tank liner and it seems to work well, POR15 is another option but Caswell should also be good so yes use that. I would now totally recommend DeoxC to de rust any tank, its not cheap to buy here (or have shipped in - in the UK is much much cheaper) but it works perfectly on all rust and even takes rust stains off plastic so your solution wont be wasted if you keep it. i actually cleaned a very rusty Lc tank out the other day and I vinegar'd it first to give the DeoxC an easier time and therefore have it last longer, helped that i already had 20L of vinegar on hand, but at $1.20/2L its hard to go past and does work very well.
Good luck, tanks are a nightmare. The smart money says 'buy the Retro tank now'. You'll save time and effort for sure, but it will blow your budget, yet it will last for 30+ years...
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Post by lb on Sept 16, 2020 9:45:42 GMT 1
Did someone mention work benches lol? Bit of luck there'll be new build tanks avail soon. Nice work there bloke.
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