|
Post by dusty350 on Mar 28, 2020 23:19:06 GMT 1
Cheers mate All the gaskets are new Yam - just waiting for the copper head gaskets to arrive now. I completely stripped the clocks. I hate dirty glass, and after 40 odd years they were due a clean, so I stripped them down, gave them a clean and polish inside and out then reassembled. Masked up the glass and then resprayed to finish. I know Yambits get a bad rep oh here, but I bought new clock damper rubbers from them and they seem fine -they do hundreds of parts for these old windy Rd's, and non essential parts like that are worth a go I think. The nos bracket will get powder coated along with the clock cups you gave me, and I have a new ignition barrel to fit, plus I can clean up the central idiot light wiring loom that came with the bent bracket. Dusty
|
|
|
Post by gazzatt2 on Mar 29, 2020 21:17:03 GMT 1
Dusty check the angle the clocks sit in relation to handle bars using that XS bracket I recall when I used a seat of XS clocks on my special there was a reason why I didn't use the clock brackets and that springs to mind why Gazza
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Mar 29, 2020 21:25:26 GMT 1
Hi Gazza I offered up the new bracket against the bent Rd bracket, and they are the same angle. These will be fitted to my billet top yoke, so they wont be a standard set up anyway. In fact, I want to tip them up a bit - may need to make an angled bracket so they can do that Regards Dusty
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Apr 4, 2020 10:32:37 GMT 1
Polished the forks this week; 20200403_210252 by dusty miller, on Flickr I've ordered some raised clip on bars to try with the billet yokes. I now have all the component parts to build the clock set - just want to get some parts powdercoated first. The frame is at the engineers - they are really busy again so it's been delayed, but hopefully I can get that back soon. I've bought some rear engine mount plates off ebay as I was missing those, plus 2 stainless front engine bolts, and I've bid on a side stand as I'm missing that too. The Covid issue has put paid to any plans to finish the Café racer bike as that needs to go up to Mutts, so I'm spending a bit more time on this now. Dusty
|
|
|
Post by philmill on Apr 4, 2020 12:29:38 GMT 1
Love the forks, I'm getting close to the point of taking mine out and doing a refurb, not sure which way to go on mine, i'd love the have them re-anodized but getting them right might not vibe so easy and then the lower part needs to be polished or black.... to many choices.
Phil
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Apr 4, 2020 20:47:12 GMT 1
Killing some time this afternoon, I decided to strip the twin shocks I bought off ebay recently; 20200310_162614 by dusty miller, on Flickr Originally I was going to take the springs off and get the bodies vapour blasted, but I decided to clean them up myself. The springs will go for powdercoat along with a small pile of other bits, and I intend repainting the shock body myself, and polishing the rest of it. I've stripped one down today; 20200404_132655 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20200404_165301 by dusty miller, on Flickr Took a bit of time but it's come up nice, and I managed to dress out a few marks from the alloy. Will polish it up tomorrow, then mask it up for painting. Dusty
|
|
|
Post by botty on Apr 4, 2020 21:39:09 GMT 1
I have an itch to scratch. It involves an air cooled chassis and a ypvs motor.
I think I could do one better than the last one.
Seeing this has got me thinking again
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Apr 5, 2020 8:16:49 GMT 1
I've got a real soft spot for the coffin tank, aircooled Rd's. Had quite a few over the years. This one started with the frame from Alex, and next thing I know, I'm scouring the land for aircooled parts ! It's like my life has gone full circle Dusty
|
|
busby
Weekend rider
RD 350 4l0
Posts: 87
|
Post by busby on Apr 5, 2020 11:19:04 GMT 1
Hi Dusty, you say you have registered the frame without an MOT. Is this because it is more than 40 years old. I ask as I am still trying to get my head around registering a foreign frame. Mines only 39.
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Apr 5, 2020 12:57:39 GMT 1
Hi Yea, this frame was dated by Paul Dawkins, as 1977 vintage, so no mot needed on a built up bike to enable UK registration.
Dusty🙂
|
|
busby
Weekend rider
RD 350 4l0
Posts: 87
|
Post by busby on Apr 5, 2020 15:41:14 GMT 1
Cheers mate
|
|
|
Post by sidney81 on Apr 5, 2020 20:47:29 GMT 1
Hi dusty ,great work on the clocks ,ccsn I ask what's the trick to get the rims off as I will be doing the same to mine any tips will help loads 😊, I've not had the chance to do much on mine I've been busy with the new workshop ,thanks Chris
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Apr 6, 2020 7:49:52 GMT 1
Hi Chris The process for stripping these is the same as for the Lc clocks. You need to peel away the crimped edge of the metal bezel on it's underside. I use a screwdriver, and it takes a couple of minutes usually. First though, check the instruments actually work. If the bike hasn't run during your ownership, it will be worth checking they actually work before you clean and put them back together. Easily checked with an old cable and a drill; 20200315_095624 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20200315_095629 by dusty miller, on Flickr Alex gave me 3 instruments. The odd one, from a smaller Rd, was used as an experiment to prove the strip down process is the same as the Lc; 20200315_100840 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20200315_101023 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20200315_102248 by dusty miller, on Flickr That last pic shows the "peeled" bezel. 2 small screws on the back of the instrument hold the mechanism in place. Undo those and the internal part is released; 20200315_102508 by dusty miller, on Flickr Rebuild is literally a reverse of strip down. I use pliers with protective tape wrapped around the jaws to "crimp" the bezel back on once everything is spotless. It's difficult to get a smooth finish, due to the type of metal used, but you can get it pretty tight, and a thin bead of clear silicon will seal it against the weather. I then mask up the "glass" - it's actually plastic, then respray; 20200328_194717 by dusty miller, on Flickr Job done ! Good luck. It's an easy job really. Dusty
|
|
|
Post by sidney81 on Apr 6, 2020 10:15:40 GMT 1
Hi Chris The process for stripping these is the same as for the Lc clocks. You need to peel away the crimped edge of the metal bezel on it's underside. I use a screwdriver, and it takes a couple of minutes usually. First though, check the instruments actually work. If the bike hasn't run during your ownership, it will be worth checking they actually work before you clean and put them back together. Easily checked with an old cable and a drill; 20200315_095624 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20200315_095629 by dusty miller, on Flickr Alex gave me 3 instruments. The odd one, from a smaller Rd, was used as an experiment to prove the strip down process is the same as the Lc; 20200315_100840 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20200315_101023 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20200315_102248 by dusty miller, on Flickr That last pic shows the "peeled" bezel. 2 small screws on the back of the instrument hold the mechanism in place. Undo those and the internal part is released; 20200315_102508 by dusty miller, on Flickr Rebuild is literally a reverse of strip down. I use pliers with protective tape wrapped around the jaws to "crimp" the bezel back on once everything is spotless. It's difficult to get a smooth finish, due to the type of metal used, but you can get it pretty tight, and a thin bead of clear silicon will seal it against the weather. I then mask up the "glass" - it's actually plastic, then respray; 20200328_194717 by dusty miller, on Flickr Job done ! Good luck. It's an easy job really. Dusty Hi dusty wow thanks for that it's give me just what I needed ,but good tip to check they actually work !! Thank you 😊
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Apr 6, 2020 20:58:46 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by donkeychomp on Apr 6, 2020 22:10:57 GMT 1
That shock looks better than new! Glad the clocks actually worked I never thought to test them myself...DOH!
Alex
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Apr 15, 2020 21:49:51 GMT 1
Some pics of the frame work. I followed the mods that were done on the Café racer frame, so a new mount for some Banshee style coils; 20200415_101819 by dusty miller, on Flickr The cross section that I bought off ebay has been welded in, enabling me to fit a side stand; 20200415_101823 by dusty miller, on Flickr Copied the plates from the Café bike, as I like them !! 20200415_101811 by dusty miller, on Flickr Because there is an Rgv wheel going in this eventually, I again copied the Café bike's frame for the chain run. The tube was cut, solid bar then fitted, welded in and cut back; 20200415_101908 by dusty miller, on Flickr The parts collecting continues too. I bought an electrics mounting plate off ebay - for an E model, and then realised I should have got one for a C/D as this is the earlier frame ! Didn't give it any thought at the time ! Luckily, the E plate fits the C/D frame exactly; 20200415_102135 by dusty miller, on Flickr The clip ons turned up too. This are 1" rise bars, same as the Café racer build. Thought I would try these with the billet yokes; 20200415_102211 by dusty miller, on Flickr Probably got enough parts now to start mocking up the front end Dusty
|
|
|
Post by Yogi on Apr 15, 2020 22:04:31 GMT 1
Nice work on the clocks and shocks 👌
You must have shares in Solvol 🥴🙈
Matt 🧸
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 16, 2020 8:39:22 GMT 1
Nice progress 👍
Steve
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Apr 22, 2020 8:17:40 GMT 1
First lot of powdercoat arrived back the other day; 20200417_175129 by dusty miller, on Flickr This meant I could start rebuilding the clocks and the shocks; 20200417_204957 by dusty miller, on Flickr The petrol tank is away getting a second tap grafted on so I can do away with the balance pipe that sits underneath the tank at the front, which is a pita even with a one way valve fitted. I'm also mocking up an undertray, using good old CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) ! Bit of work to do on that yet ! Dusty
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Apr 22, 2020 8:20:47 GMT 1
Forgot to say, I bought parts from.... Shambits !! Oh, the embarrassment Only non critical parts though, and I got to say they seem fine. 2 x clock rubber dampers, NLA from Yamaha, so in my defence, I had no option !! 20200417_205007 by dusty miller, on Flickr Dusty
|
|
|
Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 22, 2020 8:57:48 GMT 1
Great thread already Dusty. Keep a note of the parts you buy and don't do what I do in the excitement - I end up buying 2 or even 3 of some items by mistake and usually only realise when I start the assembly process! Old age in my case i think.
|
|
|
Post by oldbritguy on Apr 22, 2020 9:13:40 GMT 1
I think this will be out in the sunshine with he other two before too long
Hats off to you Dusty! Another cracking build well on its way.
|
|
|
Post by philmill on Apr 22, 2020 18:10:44 GMT 1
Forgot to say, I bought parts from.... Shambits !! Oh, the embarrassment Only non critical parts though, and I got to say they seem fine. 2 x clock rubber dampers, NLA from Yamaha, so in my defence, I had no option !! 20200417_205007 by dusty miller, on Flickr Dusty Are these the same on YPVS clocks? I need new ones for mine. Phil
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Apr 22, 2020 18:24:43 GMT 1
Hi Dont think so, although I've never tried it.
Dusty
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Apr 28, 2020 20:24:03 GMT 1
Thought I would do some CAD design for an undertray. I think something like 2mm steel plate would work ok; 20200428_155300 by dusty miller, on Flickr I could use the part where it fits under the cross member at the top to mount a light, depending on what seat I end up using. Also, a couple of mounting tabs would be welded on to make it really secure. I also cleaned up the reg/rectifier that came with the mounting plate I bought off ebay recently. It was pretty manky to start with; 20200427_144248 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20200427_144257 by dusty miller, on Flickr Spent a bit of time on it and it came up better; 20200427_152323 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20200427_152340 by dusty miller, on Flickr Dusty
|
|
|
Post by 4l04ever on Apr 28, 2020 22:27:16 GMT 1
Would 1mm aluminium be enough for the undertray? 2mm steel may be a bit heavy?? Or maybe 1.5 or 2mm aluminium?
|
|
|
Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 28, 2020 22:59:15 GMT 1
Would 1mm aluminium be enough for the undertray? 2mm steel may be a bit heavy?? Or maybe 1.5 or 2mm aluminium? ... the cardboard even lighter, just needs a bit of paint!
|
|
|
Post by allspeeds on May 1, 2020 21:43:06 GMT 1
Opened up my clocks on my Rd50 and changed the rusty cases for some nice clean ones i got from a guy in Germany ,thanks for the info Dusty, it gave me the confidence to attack them.
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on May 1, 2020 21:46:44 GMT 1
Hi I've not decided what material to use yet - probably whatever I can easily get !! The parts collection continues - bloody expensive doing it bit by bit I've now got a swingarm spindle, and 3 engine mounting plates, engine mounting bolts - the long ones at the front, and a few other odds and sods. The tank has come back from modding. As I have mentioned, the Ac tanks have a balance pipe that runs from one side to the other to equal out the fuel level. To remove the tank means disconnection the pipe on one side as it passes underneath the frame tubes, right above the engine. In the old days it meant whipping the pipe off and sticking a finger over the end of the pipe, and the spigot you just removed the pipe from, and then trying to remove the tank with your forearms !! I eventually bought a one way shut off valve which meant only stopping the flow from one side rather than 2. A really long pipe can pass to the back of the tank and over the frame tubes rather than under them, but I never liked that idea much. So, with the unhappy experiences of past petrol tank removal still in my mind, I decided on a more "engineered" solution. Tank went to Clive, my engineering guy, who cut off the spigots underneath and welded them up, and then made a plate, and welded it on to replicate the tap fitting on the left side of the tank, so I now have twin taps; 20200501_114650 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20200501_114646 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20200501_115104 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20200501_115832 by dusty miller, on Flickr They took great care not to damage the paint on the outer part of the tank - by keeping it cool when welding, and I didn't have the heart to tell them it will get a different paint scheme anyway ! I rebuilt the shocks after powdercoat and polishing; 20200501_115223 by dusty miller, on Flickr One of the shocks has lost it's damping so they are being used for mock up only. I spoke to Tamsyn at Metmachex in the week, and they will supply a twin shock arm to take the Rgv wheel, without the bike going to them. The shock mounts will be supplied but not welded on - I will get that done once I know the correct positioning. The arm will be the same as their Lc/Rgv arm, but without the Lc's top loop. Lots still to do ! Dusty
|
|