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Post by rdphil on Jan 30, 2020 15:05:25 GMT 1
Hi all. I’m new on here and owned some 2 strokes back in the day but never a new one. Well now I own a full resto on an Rd350lc.
next question is how do I run it in as not to damage engine.
thanks and this looks a great site for plenty of chat and info.
regards
phil.
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Post by jackjabba on Jan 30, 2020 15:50:31 GMT 1
Plenty of people have different methods.
Nobody will agree with everyone else. You will get those people who like to glaze the bores by pussy footing it for 600-1000 miles first.
Others will do several heat cycles and check everything is torqued down correctly and then go out and ride it like it should be. Just don't hold it wide open for long periods.
Others will do something in between the two.
I do the second option because that's what my tuner told me to do and its worked on the last 3 rebuilds.
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Post by tacky1 on Jan 30, 2020 16:11:16 GMT 1
I’m the same. A few heat cycles. Check torques. Ride it. Not thrash it. Never a problem.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 30, 2020 16:50:29 GMT 1
Just be sensible with it really generally as above.
Keep an eye on cylinder head torques, oil pump operation, check the spark plugs every now and then, and you should be ok.
The last one I ran in after a rebuild I had to do mostly in the rain, as wanted to have it run in before I took it to Isle of Man.
Kept me sensible and very wet!
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Post by reedpete on Jan 30, 2020 22:54:48 GMT 1
I could save you the bother. I’d only need a couple of days with it 😂😂😂
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Post by tony2stroke on Jan 31, 2020 0:52:28 GMT 1
I could save you the bother. I’d only need a couple of days with it 😂😂😂 DON'T do it Phil  |
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Post by earthman on Jan 31, 2020 9:38:21 GMT 1
Personally I've never had to do this but like with ANY combustion engine, surely taking it easy with the revs for the first 500 miles is the way to go?
Even when an engine has plenty of miles on it, seeing folk rev the nuts out of it puts my teeth on edge, I dread to think how a freshly built engine would cope with that.
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Post by dougw on Jan 31, 2020 10:00:11 GMT 1
Personally I've never had to do this but like with ANY combustion engine, surely taking it easy with the revs for the first 500 miles is the way to go? Even when an engine has plenty of miles on it, seeing folk rev the nuts out of it puts my teeth on edge, I dread to think how a freshly built engine would cope with that. There is a theory that if you take it TOO easy for the first 500 miles the rings will never bed in properly, as its combustion pressure forcing them against the honed bore surface that beds them, and that the if left too long the honing has smoothed out and rings never bed. My KTM 250 is due another piston and rings at around 500 miles ! Been running 2t MXers for junior and myself for the last 13 years and done lots of piston changes as routine maintenance, no blow ups to date .(thats torn it). Running in procedure that has worked for me. 3 heat cycles low revs not riding, stone cold in between. Check / re torque. First 20 minute track session mid revs 1/2 throttle. Second 20 minute session, usually 40 minutes later, 3/4 throttle 3/4 revs. Third 20 minute session thrash it. Not very scientific, and juniors ideas of 1/2 , mid and 3/4 sound a bit different to mine from the trackside ! Pistons come out looking fine, rings usually just on wear limit. In 1983 I used to dump the clutch on my brand new 350LC at 5000 revs and wheely it after it had done about 100 miles. Bores looked perfect when given to Terry Becket it tune at 10,000 miles. Survived another 10,000 miles of racing and abuse before it got nicked. I always warm up the engines carefully before using any revs/load, that combined with modern 2t oils works for me. |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2020 11:00:53 GMT 1
Coated barrels and steel liners need a slightly different approach, as do forged and cast pistons. It ranges from 2 heat cycles and a not too gentle 20 minute run (under load) to a bedding in over a few hundred miles. IMO the 1st is the one I use on Vertex (cast)/Ceramic coating on modern 2T's barrels, and on the steel lined LC barrel with Mitaka (cast) piston a couple of heat cycles on B8ES plugs then ride it below 6,000 rpm for 100 miles. Put B9ES plugs in then 8,000 rpm for 100 miles then check it over. New B9ES plugs and off we go.
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Post by reedpete on Jan 31, 2020 11:32:17 GMT 1
Serious comment from me.....Possible a key point to add is that in Phil’s situation, it’s actually not just ‘running in that’s required’. There’s a degree of ‘shake down’ needed. Check engine starts, idles and pulls away cleanly without complaints, that it rides, brakes and accelerates in a straight line, that tyres stay to pressure.
Coolant leak check, oil usage, charging system and nominal charge voltage..
Probably a few other things if we made a definitive list.
And yes as per above, run in as per road bike with iron liners , not a race bike with plated bores. There are various similar recipes for that but generally the only real absolutely don’t do, is to think you can ‘put time on the engine’ by just leaving it on the stand on tick over for a whole morning...
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Post by earthman on Jan 31, 2020 12:39:59 GMT 1
Back in the day, if you were lucky enough to be able to buy a brand new LC, what were the advice from the dealers/Yamaha?
I've since seen pictures of a sticker placed on the rev counter, don't recall ever seeing one back then but none of my mates had new bikes. Lol
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Post by dougw on Jan 31, 2020 14:13:00 GMT 1
Back in the day, if you were lucky enough to be able to buy a brand new LC, what were the advice from the dealers/Yamaha? I've since seen pictures of a sticker placed on the rev counter, don't recall ever seeing one back then but none of my mates had new bikes. Lol Mine came from Team Ham Yam, in the dark, on the back of a trailer. Only advice from dealer was "Here's the key, manual is under the seat, bye". Took a while to work out how to get under the seat. Think owner manual said keep it under 5000 rpm for 500 miles. Can't remember any sticker, but we are talking about 1983. (YPVS was out in 1983 but 4L0 old stock was being sold off cheap) I still have the manual, I will have a look. |
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Post by dougw on Jan 31, 2020 18:45:34 GMT 1
Back in the day, if you were lucky enough to be able to buy a brand new LC, what were the advice from the dealers/Yamaha? I've since seen pictures of a sticker placed on the rev counter, don't recall ever seeing one back then but none of my mates had new bikes. Lol Manual says 0 - 300 mi avoid operation above 4,000 r/min Vary speed, Do not operate it at once, set throttle position (verbatim from manual !) 300 - 600 mi avoid operation above 5,000 r/min Allow the motorcycle to rev freely through the gears but do not use full throttle at any time 600 mi and beyond Avoid full throttle operation Avoid engine speeds in excess of 7,000 r/min Vary speeds occasionally. |
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Post by shell2tx on Jan 31, 2020 22:07:06 GMT 1
Full run in was probably due to the entire bike being new as bores cranks gears clutch ,all my new bikes back in the day had a whirr off them because everything was tight and as they got used more became looser and noisier i would usually go for about 150miles after a rebore before opening a bike up a bit more new mx bikes only needed an hr to run in back then [and how far would that have been about 5mi??] as for re torquing never had to do it back in the day the dealers certainly didnt do it at first service unless 1980s head bolts have became more elastic with age what i will say is as you get older you become a lot more cautious/paranoid because we have way more knowledge of how things work but these things are far more robust than we imagine, my old mtx125 used to go like the clappers when cold never a cold seizure in sight my 250lc seized on the m8 coming back from Edinburugh one day because the 2t pump cable had snapped let it cool down it started right up pulled the pump cable with my hand made it home ,1 new cable later and it would still pull 105 on the clock....everybody to their own.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2020 22:27:16 GMT 1
When the 1st ProAm series was put together the bikes had to be run in (none were road registered). I was at Donington helping break the bikes in. Basically Yamaha mechanics warmed the bikes up and everyone (all the pro am boys were there) pootled off round Redgate, then red lined them all the way round the circuit (racing each other) up to the chicane where everyone went past the pits at about 55mph... It was freezing cold and not a single bike seized.
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Post by earthman on Feb 1, 2020 0:16:52 GMT 1
what i will say is as you get older you become a lot more cautious/paranoid because we have way more knowledge of how things work but these things are far more robust than we imagine Yes, I totally agree about becoming even more cautious,....hope you are right about the last bit.  |
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Post by earthman on Feb 1, 2020 0:19:52 GMT 1
coming back from Edinburugh one day because the 2t pump cable had snapped let it cool down it started right up pulled the pump cable with my hand made it home Ingenious idea, better than waiting for recovery hey. |
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Post by 4l04ever on Feb 1, 2020 10:02:32 GMT 1
I always run in by doing 2 heat cycles then torqueing the head bolts. Then I put it straight under load but do not hold it at high revs for first 50 to 100 miles. This is needed to bed the rings in properly. If you pootle around, they will not bed in as well, and you may get more blow by.
I have done similar on the dyno for my track LC. Ran under load for 20 mins keeping the revs going up and down, then full power time!
I also try to use a non-synthetic oil for the running in as this allows more wear for the bedding in. I then change to fully synthetic from then on.
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