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Post by petehodges on Jan 9, 2020 20:56:09 GMT 1
Evening lads Got a problem with my build & it’s driving me nuts So I’ve got a metmachex that take rgv wheel Problem being as when it’s all bolted up the brake calliper Is almost rubbing on the disc it’s got the correct wheel spacers from metmachex , the chain line line looks about right at for a 4mm offset sprocket just don’t know how too sort this brake calliper out Any ideas or advice please lads here’s some pics too see what I mean thanks 🙏
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Post by mak595 on Jan 9, 2020 21:15:15 GMT 1
Could you machine a few mm off the carrier where the caliper bolts onto in so the the caliper sits further in....
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 9, 2020 21:19:11 GMT 1
Is it rubbing on the inside or outside of the disc?
Steve
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Post by headcoats on Jan 9, 2020 21:22:59 GMT 1
Sometimes these aftermarket discs are thicker than standard
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Post by sbscnor on Jan 9, 2020 21:23:46 GMT 1
I'm no expert on RGV conversions but the simplest solution would be to me is place a washer between the wheel and disc mount bolts, i.e. bring the disc out towards the S\A. Having said that there doesn't look to be a lot of clearance to play with
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 9, 2020 21:29:15 GMT 1
Is you Met arm a new one or a few years old ? Reason I ask is I bought one when Dean was still running the original Metmachex swingarms, and I was supplied with incorrect spacers. Long story short, I ended up getting a spacer made by my local guys after I had done some careful measuring. Dean had supposedly lost the drawings for the Lc/Rgv swingarm.
Dusty
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Post by petehodges on Jan 9, 2020 21:29:20 GMT 1
Thanks for reply’s lads Ok Steve it’s rubbing on the inside so you can’t put washers on the bolts too bring it out
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Post by petehodges on Jan 9, 2020 21:31:46 GMT 1
Is you Met arm a new one or a few years old ? Reason I ask is I bought one when Dean was still running the original Metmachex swingarms, and I was supplied with incorrect spacers. Long story short, I ended up getting a spacer made by my local guys after I had done some careful measuring. Dean had supposedly lost the drawings for the Lc/Rgv swingarm. Dusty Dusty I got this off Dave (tribrit) but yes I think it’s an older model it’s drove fooking nuts mate spent most evenings this week passing around with it . It’s meant too be straight forward 🤬
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Post by petehodges on Jan 9, 2020 21:33:49 GMT 1
I'm no expert on RGV conversions but the simplest solution would be to me is place a washer between the wheel and disc mount bolts, i.e. bring the disc out towards the S\A. Having said that there doesn't look to be a lot of clearance to play with Yes mate I did think this but I’m not really over happy doing this as it should be right to begin with
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 9, 2020 21:33:51 GMT 1
Looking at your pics it seems you need a mm or 2 off the top hat spacer that goes against the wheel bearing, and that mm or 2 being added to the spacer between the carrier and the arm.
Dusty
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Post by andy748 on Jan 9, 2020 21:34:57 GMT 1
What Headcoats said, i've the same disc on my Rgv and it's thicker than standard, if it's almost touching just run it, as long as it doesn't bind, should be ok, only other ways are skim the inside face of the disc or shims behind the bolts? Andy.
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Post by petehodges on Jan 9, 2020 21:36:09 GMT 1
Looking at your pics it seems you need a mm or 2 off the top hat spacer that goes against the wheel bearing, and that mm or 2 being added to the spacer between the carrier and the arm. Dusty I did think this aswell mate trouble is I’m sure that then changes the chain run ? At the mo I need 4mm offset
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Post by petehodges on Jan 9, 2020 21:37:46 GMT 1
What Headcoats said, i've the same disc on my Rgv and it's thicker than standard, if it's almost touching just run it, as long as it doesn't bind, should be ok, only other ways are skim the inside face of the disc or shims behind the bolts? Andy. Yes mate I could put washers behind the disc but I think that’s bodging myself
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 9, 2020 21:42:41 GMT 1
Mine drove me nuts too. I expected it all to bolt together, but the wrong spacers threw everything out. Dean was less than helpful at the time, in fact obnoxious to the point that if he had been nearer I was gonna stick the swingarm up his a**e A subsequent spacer he sent me still didn't fit properly so I ended up getting one made - cost me £40 ! If it works, you could easily mill off the excess on the top hat side, and shim the other side with a washer to make up the difference. Also, as mentioned, check everything else is correct regards the disc thickness, before you alter what you've got. Dusty
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Post by andy748 on Jan 9, 2020 21:42:58 GMT 1
Spacers would be the way to go then, as Dusty suggests. Andy.
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 9, 2020 21:47:10 GMT 1
I personally wouldn't put washers behind the disc. You need to get it right using the spacers. If you "adjust" the spacers by taking a bit off and adding it back on then all you would do is move the carrier across - chain run wont alter.
Dusty
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Post by Yogi on Jan 9, 2020 21:59:28 GMT 1
Can’t you just shave a couple of mil off the carrier where the caliper bolts go through
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Post by petehodges on Jan 9, 2020 22:04:57 GMT 1
Can’t you just shave a couple of mil off the carrier where the caliper bolts go through Yes I could do mate but just worried I fook it up & also it’s all then got too be repainted as you see where it been skimmed
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Post by Yogi on Jan 9, 2020 22:09:09 GMT 1
Looks the easiest way to me mate and if you Mark it where it is now and file it straight you’ll never notice it down there
so shouldn’t need paint 👍
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Post by ianboom on Jan 10, 2020 10:15:34 GMT 1
I'd find somebody with a lathe and take some metal of the inside of the wheel spacer. It doesn't look like it needs much taking off. If it's only a mm or 2, either get a new swingarm adjuster or temporarily use a washer to get the spacings correct and the get a spacer made up the same thickness and get it welded to the adjuster.
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Post by jon on Jan 10, 2020 10:17:49 GMT 1
Personally I think it’s easier to make new spacers, but then I would having a lathe.
It makes more sense engineering wise too.
The pictures make it look like there is already a spacer either side of the caliper mount?
Jon
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 10, 2020 10:35:06 GMT 1
You say just about to hit
By the look of the pic there is not loads of room on the other side either. Only looks about 1mm off.
My first question would be have you checked the wheel bearing on that side is seated correctly? Have you torque the rear spindle properly yet?
That would throw out the caliper spacing.
If all ok then you have 4 options
1) Take 1mm off the spacer between the wheel and caliper mount and see how it sits. Then get the spacer between the bracket and the arm remade to suit
2) Mark the exact area the caliper mounts are on the bracket and get 1mm milled off those bits only so will never be seen
3) Get the inside face of the disc ground down, it looks quite thick
4) My preferred option is get a 1mm disc spacer made out of alloy
Steve
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Post by headcoats on Jan 10, 2020 10:45:30 GMT 1
Back to the thicker disc I had it on my LC with the KR1S conversion, so it had stock KR1S swingarm, wheel, brake caliper but aftermarket rear disc
I couldn't get new brake pads in as there just wasn't the room and had to fit a half worn brake pad on the front or back and when the new one wore down a bit I could then fit the other new pad !
All down to a thicker brake disc
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Post by petehodges on Jan 15, 2020 9:22:36 GMT 1
Thanks lads got it sorted in the end 2m off the top hat spacer & 2mm added too new spacer 👍
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