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Post by chrisg on Dec 19, 2019 11:52:32 GMT 1
Hi, I notice that Yamaha still sell the 350LC (1980) oil pump. Does anyone know if this is a "plug and play" ,so to speak, or will it need shimming prior to use?
Thanks
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Post by JonW on Dec 19, 2019 12:07:16 GMT 1
I'd still send it to Arrow to get it checked over, some new pumps have been found to be totally out of whack.
If youve an old some, send it to him instead and forget the new pump idea. You'll get back what is basically a new one that works properly from him anyway.
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Post by Shytalk on Dec 19, 2019 12:43:15 GMT 1
As Jon says, really it should be plug and play, however there was a member on here who bought a new one too and had a leak IIRC, ended up riding it over to Arrow’s place where they found it had an incorrect seal fitted...........
Best option IF you already have a pump is send it over to Gary - Arrow and get it refurbished, it’ll look and perform exactly as required, if you don’t have a pump then consider buying a secondhand one to send to him.
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Post by markhoopy on Dec 19, 2019 16:45:48 GMT 1
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Post by lolly on Dec 19, 2019 17:21:07 GMT 1
i installed a new one a few years ago ; it had to be shimmed ; apparently they are not set up for a 4LO
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Post by earthman on Dec 19, 2019 22:35:44 GMT 1
i installed a new one a few years ago ; it had to be shimmed ; apparently they are not set up for a 4LO That seems odd to me, from what I can see via Fowler's website, there's two different part numbers, one for a 250 and a 350LC so you would assume that the shims would be correct?  |
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Post by lolly on Dec 20, 2019 9:03:10 GMT 1
i installed a new one a few years ago ; it had to be shimmed ; apparently they are not set up for a 4LO That seems odd to me, from what I can see via Fowler's website, there's two different part numbers, one for a 250 and a 350LC so you would assume that the shims would be correct? arrow talked me through setting it up ; i could be be wrong but i think he said they were set up for a 31K |
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Post by 4l04ever on Dec 20, 2019 22:58:22 GMT 1
i installed a new one a few years ago ; it had to be shimmed ; apparently they are not set up for a 4LO That seems odd to me, from what I can see via Fowler's website, there's two different part numbers, one for a 250 and a 350LC so you would assume that the shims would be correct? It is not just shims that are different between 250 and 350. The drive gear is different too, maybe other bits, but ask Arrow on here for the full answer :-) |
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Post by JonW on Dec 21, 2019 2:23:03 GMT 1
Why would the 31K give a different oil amount to a 4L0? I would think all the 350 pumps would be the same wouldnt they? its about the cc of the engine and the flow of the fuel, ie the throttle position as dictated by the cable not the bike type?
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Post by earthman on Dec 21, 2019 10:08:46 GMT 1
Why would the 31K give a different oil amount to a 4L0? I would think all the 350 pumps would be the same wouldnt they? its about the cc of the engine and the flow of the fuel, ie the throttle position as dictated by the cable not the bike type? Those were my thoughts too,...does a 31K have a different bore/stroke size to it's pistons? Maybe that's it?? |
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Post by 4l04ever on Dec 21, 2019 10:53:16 GMT 1
Is the specification different for YPVS vs 4L0 oil pumps?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 21, 2019 15:30:50 GMT 1
It's most likely the minimum stroke is different between lc and ypvs so shimming will be required
Early and late ypvs have different alignment methods too
One is on closed throttle, one wide open
Think they reduced oil as time went on
Steve
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Post by 123 on Dec 21, 2019 19:27:49 GMT 1
arrow the man to sort the pump top class job
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Post by mak595 on Dec 21, 2019 22:24:13 GMT 1
Arrow has done a cracking job on 2 pumps for me, i specified 10% extra flow for piece of mind.....
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Post by jon on Dec 22, 2019 11:08:10 GMT 1
Arrow has done a cracking job on 2 pumps for me, i specified 10% extra flow for piece of mind..... Is that for your F1 bitsa? I’ve got a +10% pump on my LC, but I’m sure when I asked Arrow about rebuilding another YPVS pump for me he recommended not to have the +10% one? I think it was to do with clogging the valves? Perhaps he can confirm? Jon |
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Post by JonW on Dec 23, 2019 0:14:31 GMT 1
If its working properly I dont see why you need +10% as it would be the correct spec etc. But each to his own I guess.
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Post by mak595 on Dec 23, 2019 12:06:40 GMT 1
I went with 10% on the recommendation from arrow, got 10% pump on my 31k and on the F1 when its finished
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Post by arrow on Jan 2, 2020 16:22:50 GMT 1
The pumps available from Yamaha now have the later 1UA part number and are set up with the 4~6 thou minimum stroke for the later bikes. The setting method for the cable is different. The last pumps were set up at closed throttle as the stroke needs to change pretty much as the bike starts moving this is a higher position than setting at the full bore position. Even on the latest power valve I set them to minimum 10 thou and use the early cable setting at full bore. If you want to start the oiling off at 235:1 that's your choice, but I won't set them to this. It was all for emmisions, not for the good of the motor. Basically Yamaha wanted ZERO smoke at idle. Also, most of the pumps I see have not had a re-shim since the last time they were at a dealers. With a new pump set to 5 thou, by the time it's bedded in the minimum stroke could well be zero. Most of the 10 thou ones are now not much more than zero, some are even negative. Like with other aspects of the bike, we all know that Yamaha didn't get everything right all the time. The later 1KT pumps are prone to early failure of the front seal. Yamaha made changes to the pump internals that caused this.
HTH.
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Post by arrow on Jan 2, 2020 16:51:00 GMT 1
Also, with regards to the stroke setting I ran my lc at 14 thou, this is not for everyone, but most of the pumps are that far out these days that my "range" doesn't really mean that much difference. It's something that's easily changed on the bike anyway, and according to Yamaha should be checked every 2000 miles for most models. Remember also that a bigger minimum stroke gives you more time before it drops out of spec.
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