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Post by veg on Jan 9, 2020 12:55:41 GMT 1
I keep picturing what i would do if it was mine and probably nothing different, this in white with red speed blocks, white wheels mmmmm.
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Post by sidney81 on Jan 9, 2020 14:42:18 GMT 1
I keep picturing what i would do if it was mine and probably nothing different, this in white with red speed blocks, white wheels mmmmm. Funny you should say that I'm thinking of the White and red ,I really like it to me it's Yamaha !! Then sometimes I think maybe something bit different it's a difficult one !!
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Post by sidney81 on Jan 10, 2020 23:05:42 GMT 1
Hi guys ,bit of an update ,I received my seat this week I'm very happy with it, it's well made and looks great (I think) ,I was a little on edge on how it would fit ,looks like I'm going to have to do a bit of work to get it to fit ok .The seam on the back of the tank fouls the seat so I've cut the seam off and welded the tank up sanded it flush ,so now the seat buts up nicely to the tank! . Here's a few pictures so you can see what I've done !! Next will be working out how to fit the seat !! Thanks Chris π IMG_20200107_190720 by Chris, on Flickr This is the seam i had to cut off. IMG_20200108_172121 by Chris, on Flickr Seams been cut off here and tacked ready to be welded, it was difficult very thin metal ! IMG_20200108_181508 by Chris, on Flickr This is after welding and sanding flush. IMG_20200108_195641 by Chris, on Flickr IMG_20200108_203406 by Chris, on Flickr As you can see the seat butts up nicely now. I have a few more jobs to do on the tank, when finished i will pressure test for leaks.
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Post by badger1 on Jan 10, 2020 23:33:08 GMT 1
I feel a few can you repair my tank posts coming your way!!
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 11, 2020 10:01:34 GMT 1
Great work on the tank Chris I love the look of the coffin tanks, but there are a couple of things that bug me about them. First is that area you have just modded. Not a problem with a standard seat but an ugly thing to deal with if deviating to an aftermarket seat or race seat. The other, more annoying part is the link pipe joining the 2 halves of the tank underneath. Even with a one way valve fitted, getting the tank off without spilling fuel everywhere is a tricky proposition ! I have considered cutting off the link pipe spigots and welding up the holes, and fitting 2 taps like a Tz tank would have. Easy job for a skilled fella like you. Only cost would be a new tap, or a couple of Tz style single outlet taps. Or a really long link pipe that enables you to lift the tank right up, making disconnecting the pipe a lot easier (a lot easier than option 1!) Keep up the great work, loving the build Dusty
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Post by sidney81 on Jan 11, 2020 10:38:20 GMT 1
The other, more annoying part is the link pipe joining the 2 halves of the tank underneath. Even with a one way valve fitted, getting the tank off without spilling fuel everywhere is a tricky proposition ! I have considered cutting off the link pipe spigots and welding up the holes, and fitting 2 taps like a Tz tank would have. Easy job for a skilled fella like you. Only cost would be a new tap, or a couple of Tz style single outlet taps. Or a really long link pipe that enables you to lift the tank right up, making disconnecting the pipe a lot easier (a lot easier than option 1!) Keep up the great work, loving the build Dusty [/quote] Hi dusty ,thanks πah yes that bloddy link pipe mine had been brazed up so I drilled them out and they were both blocked I got the air line in there got one free flowing ! I think I'm gonna cut them off welde the holes up and make new spigots 1 reason there bit blocked the other is as I've put the gussets in the frame that now blocks the pipes so I'm going to move them a tad and change the angle of them,but like you say a pain to get the tank off !! So the dry break connectors only hold feul back one way ,,Chris π
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Post by donkeychomp on Jan 12, 2020 0:17:50 GMT 1
A lot of the A/C lads use a quick release hose for that very issue!
Alex
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Post by reedpete on Jan 12, 2020 7:38:14 GMT 1
Another even simpler solution which works well is to use a long length of pipe, long enough to go back under the tank and over the frame tube and back down the other side. If you fit the tank with fuel in and allow the tube to fill before you lower it into place, the two halves of the tank balance by siphon action.
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 12, 2020 10:05:09 GMT 1
I've always used a one way valve, so you only have to stick your finger over one end of pipe when removing the tank - still a faff but a bit easier. And that was my thought regards a longer pipe - looping backwards and over the frame rather than under it. The length of fuel pipe Yamaha supply for about 6 quid would be plenty to do the job. Dusty
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Post by sidney81 on Jan 13, 2020 21:49:56 GMT 1
Hi Dose anybody else get to that stage of the build where you go out to the garage / workshop and just look at the bike for about a Hour then come back in π€£π€£that's me at the moment ,!!
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Post by andymoore on Jan 13, 2020 22:22:09 GMT 1
Normally with silly grin on my face top build mate I really like it ππ
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Post by yamark on Jan 13, 2020 22:31:46 GMT 1
Hi Dose anybody else get to that stage of the build where you go out to the garage / workshop and just look at the bike for about a Hour then come back in π€£π€£that's me at the moment ,!! I do that all the time Chris, also I sometimes get days where no matter what I do, nothing goes well- I always leave it until the next day. Great work on the tank mateπ
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Post by sidney81 on Jan 14, 2020 8:15:12 GMT 1
Hi Dose anybody else get to that stage of the build where you go out to the garage / workshop and just look at the bike for about a Hour then come back in π€£π€£that's me at the moment ,!! I do that all the time Chris, also I sometimes get days where no matter what I do, nothing goes well- I always leave it until the next day. Great work on the tank mateπ thanks mark !! Yes best to walk away sometimes, or I will rush something where there is no need to rush !! My partner says relax and enjoy it π
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Post by sidney81 on Jan 18, 2020 19:28:06 GMT 1
Hi I got some workshop time in today , made some seat hinge's ,cut the bulkey bit of the back end ,made a new tank bracket as I had to move them under the tank because the seat fouled them ,,I also worked out how I'm going to finish the subframe ,few pictures π thanks Chris
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Post by sidney81 on Jan 18, 2020 19:29:28 GMT 1
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 18, 2020 20:58:28 GMT 1
Excellent work Chris I wish Yamaha had done the tank fixing like you have Keep up the awesome work Dusty
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Post by sidney81 on Jan 18, 2020 23:16:53 GMT 1
Thanks dusty I keep chipping away at it π
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Post by yamark on Jan 19, 2020 20:04:02 GMT 1
Love the detailed work Chris, following with interest
Cheers, Mark
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Post by sidney81 on Jan 19, 2020 21:36:44 GMT 1
Love the detailed work Chris, following with interest
Cheers, Mark Thank you Mark means alot π trying my best I never thought the tank and seat would be so difficult to get right , suppose there the most important part! I need to get two 25 mm od elbows to make the subframe I'll try and get them through work ,we have a pipe bender but I can't get a tight enough radius with that !!
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Post by sidney81 on Jan 21, 2020 23:02:30 GMT 1
Hi I got the topend off and ready to send to Martin Johnson he's going to re shape the squish and do some work on the port's that should liven the old girl up a little .I was surprised on how good the bores were ,then again the whole engine looks like it's not been messed with too much it's all nice and original ,I will give it a full rebuild though as it's not been run since the 80s ,, IMG_20200121_195014 by Chris, on Flickr IMG_20200121_195024 by Chris, on Flickr
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 22, 2020 8:03:07 GMT 1
Hi Chris I'm going to start a comprehensive engine rebuild thread on the 400E in the next week or two, and I've started sorting parts numbers and prices in readiness. The good news is a lot of stuff is still available new from Yamaha, so that's good news for us You can get VForce reeds to fit the Ac inlets, and the billet intakes that fit Lc's fit the Ac's too, so you can improve the inlet track side of things. I plan on fitting Pwk 28's which will be a vast improvement over the stock carbs. And of course, you can fit a digital ignition set up if you want to go overboard !! Keep up the good work Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 22, 2020 8:13:02 GMT 1
And just to add, looking at your pic, I'm not sure you've got aircooled pistons in there ? I'm certainly no expert, but the port windows are the wrong size and shape for standard Ac. I think, as standard, they had a small cut out on the front of the skirt too; 20200122_070703 by dusty miller, on Flickr I'm having to raid the depths of my memory now as it's 10 years since I did an Ac engine build, but I believe the tolerances for piston expansion are different between Lc and Ac, due to the Lc's better cooling. Someone here may know more - Mutts has a wealth of knowledge so It may be worth asking the question if you intend re using what you've got Dusty
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Post by sidney81 on Jan 22, 2020 8:14:12 GMT 1
Hi Chris I'm going to start a comprehensive engine rebuild thread on the 400E in the next week or two, and I've started sorting parts numbers and prices in readiness. The good news is a lot of stuff is still available new from Yamaha, so that's good news for us You can get VForce reeds to fit the Ac inlets, and the billet intakes that fit Lc's fit the Ac's too, so you can improve the inlet track side of things. I plan on fitting Pwk 28's which will be a vast improvement over the stock carbs. And of course, you can fit a digital ignition set up if you want to go overboard !! Keep up the good work Dusty Hi dusty ,that will be great , I've been looking at them pwks there nice ,oh you have just cost me some money ha ha , looking forward to seeing the engine thread ππ
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Post by sidney81 on Jan 22, 2020 8:16:07 GMT 1
Hi Chris I'm going to start a comprehensive engine rebuild thread on the 400E in the next week or two, and I've started sorting parts numbers and prices in readiness. The good news is a lot of stuff is still available new from Yamaha, so that's good news for us You can get VForce reeds to fit the Ac inlets, and the billet intakes that fit Lc's fit the Ac's too, so you can improve the inlet track side of things. I plan on fitting Pwk 28's which will be a vast improvement over the stock carbs. And of course, you can fit a digital ignition set up if you want to go overboard !! Keep up the good work Dusty Hi dusty ,that will be great , I've been looking at them pwks there nice ,oh you have just cost me some money ha ha , looking forward to seeing the engine thread ππ Oh I will look into that will get new pistons thanks as I didn't know that π
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 22, 2020 8:21:46 GMT 1
I will have to research it a bit more as I'm not definite on the Ac pistons. Paul from PJME is a member on here too and he would be another person that would know for sure. My 400e engine came with Pv pistons , loose in a box, so I'm not sure they were ever fitted to the engine, but I will try and source the correct pistons when I do the rebuild. And Arrow can do the aircooled oil pumps, no problem, so another big bonus Dusty
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Post by sidney81 on Jan 22, 2020 8:40:53 GMT 1
I will have to research it a bit more as I'm not definite on the Ac pistons. Paul from PJME is a member on here too and he would be another person that would know for sure. My 400e engine came with Pv pistons , loose in a box, so I'm not sure they were ever fitted to the engine, but I will try and source the correct pistons when I do the rebuild. And Arrow can do the aircooled oil pumps, no problem, so another big bonus Dusty Thanks brilliant ,, arrow already has my pump I got it to him a while ago as I know he gets busy ,he done my and my brother's Tzr pumps , brilliant service π
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Post by sidney81 on Jan 28, 2020 20:45:35 GMT 1
Hi ,I grabbed an hour after work and made a start on the rear subframe! I bent a piece of alloy Tig wire up to get the rough shape , I brought two elbows to get the tight radius ,there 3/4 inch nominal bore that measures about 27 mm od ,the tube I'm using for the rails is 25 mm od so I'm going to have a small step where it joins the elbow's but I will sand and blend it in as you can't get 25 mm mild steel elbow's , stainless no problem but not mild so 3/4 is the closest ! Anyway this is what I have so far ! Tomorrow evening I'm going to hopefully get it welded to the bike π,Chris IMG_20200122_095837 by Chris, on Flickr IMG_20200128_170612 by Chris, on Flickr IMG_20200128_170616 by Chris, on Flickr IMG_20200128_174539 by Chris, on Flickr IMG_20200128_174820 by Chris, on Flickr
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Post by oldbritguy on Jan 28, 2020 21:27:42 GMT 1
Hi Dose anybody else get to that stage of the build where you go out to the garage / workshop and just look at the bike for about a Hour then come back in π€£π€£that's me at the moment ,!! Yup!! All the time. Bike is wintering in the hut and it is Baltic outside so a fresh brew wins every time
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Post by reedpete on Jan 29, 2020 15:43:14 GMT 1
Regarding small piston cutouts on the exhaust side. Only the 400C and D had those. All other Aircooled not. They didnβt really work so weβre removed ...
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Post by sidney81 on Jan 29, 2020 16:17:27 GMT 1
Regarding small piston cutouts on the exhaust side. Only the 400C and D had those. All other Aircooled not. They didnβt really work so weβre removed ... Thank you ,,,so the pistons I have look correct?? ,Chris
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