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Post by muttsnuts on Oct 2, 2019 19:36:47 GMT 1
Can the throttle slides on a 500 get mixed up? Not 100% sure. I will investigate. But revs fine not under load not easily as each carb is unique to each cylinder and unique to the 500, so the slides would be difficult to get mixed up, let alone fitted etc as they are linked on each pair, although they could sieze up, but that is easy to check, just take the airbox sides off the carbs, ope3n the throttle fully and check the slides are fully up on each carb with your finger
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Post by muttsnuts on Oct 2, 2019 19:44:02 GMT 1
It might sound a bit drastic but disconnect the pipes. If they are blocked (some people have left rags and stuff in there by accident) that would def stop it revving. It will be fkin loud for the 3 seconds you will need to run it to prove the point this I have seen several times, espeically after a full resto job etc, quiet funny to see peoples faces when you pull rags out of the exhausts !!!
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Post by iwantalc on Oct 2, 2019 19:46:53 GMT 1
book the bike in with mutts nuts problem sorted ,,,
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Post by 1601pete on Oct 2, 2019 19:48:49 GMT 1
do the PV's cycle when you switch it on, if so, which way do they go?, also, have you had your finger up the exhaust ports to check the PV's are fully open when they are meant to, don't just do one, do all of them as I've had one where the PV just in one cylinder wasn't moving and it turned out that it had sheared in the middle due to being seized Also, do the PV's start to move at around 6+k when revved, as the PV controller might be knackered or even the servo itself, which is highly possible as it is located near the rear wheel and if the rubber boot is missing/perished then it gets covered in crap and seizes up really easily One thing you can do, is take the PV cables off, get 2 8mm bolts 65mm long, slot them through the PV clamp fork and into the 8mm holes in the barrels which are used for alignment of the PVs, this will pin the PV's open for each bank of cylinders, that way you can eliminate the PV's from the equation when you test it - clearly stuff like this is way easier to do on a dyno than running it up and down the road HTH Yeah powervalves cycle when ignition is turned on. We’ve swapped out the powervalve control unit for a known good one. Even ran the bike with powervalves open. (Disconnected servo when in open Position. Cables all good and link arms the right way around. Properly adjusted as you day and they are fully open when they are supposed to be in all 4 positions. I checked movement and seals of PV’s when I had the barrels off.
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Post by LC_BOTT on Oct 2, 2019 19:49:13 GMT 1
Have you also checked the choke cables are all correctly seated in the 4 way connector, I had one once that was a bit loose, and choke was on for one cylinder. Yamaha should have put the 500 carbs on zips the ammount of times they need removing and checking/resetting etc ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) Throttle and choke cables routed as per the manual?
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Post by 1601pete on Oct 2, 2019 19:51:27 GMT 1
book the bike in with mutts nuts problem sorted ,,, 😂😂. I don’t need to he’s contributing to this thread 👍
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Post by LC_BOTT on Oct 2, 2019 19:55:01 GMT 1
What's the spec of the bike, obviously not standard looking at the vid, is it a UK RD or RZV etc
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Post by muttsnuts on Oct 2, 2019 19:56:53 GMT 1
ah, just had a thought, which model is it and which carbs are fitted to it, plus has it had the carbs overhauled/serviced with after market kits ?
The reason I ask is because there are 2 jetting specs depending upon the model/year of bike, if they have had the wrong kits used to overhaul them then the jet sizes will be wrong and if they are the wrong way round, it will be really lean, as some bikes run 165 mains, and others run 195 mains and this is carb/year dependant, so there are 2 different overhaul kits for the RD500 carbs
HTH
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Post by huggy76 on Oct 2, 2019 19:59:01 GMT 1
Have you tried something as simple as putting the choke on when it bogs down, my YPVS done the same as you describe and it was a blocked emulsion tube.
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Post by 1601pete on Oct 2, 2019 19:59:14 GMT 1
What's the spec of the bike, obviously not standard looking at the vid, is it a UK RD or RZV etc Uk bike. 47X. Standard porting with a small amount of cleaning up of rough edges etc.
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Post by 1601pete on Oct 2, 2019 20:01:30 GMT 1
ah, just had a thought, which model is it and which carbs are fitted to it, plus has it had the carbs overhauled/serviced with after market kits ? The reason I ask is because there are 2 jetting specs depending upon the model/year of bike, if they have had the wrong kits used to overhaul them then the jet sizes will be wrong and if they are the wrong way round, it will be really lean, as some bikes run 165 mains, and others run 195 mains and this is carb/year dependant, so there are 2 different overhaul kits for the RD500 carbs HTH Checked all that. Jetted #200 mains and the right air and pilot jets. I’m staring to think I need to check on knozzles and needles. The easiest thing would to swap out the carbs off of my bike
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Post by muttsnuts on Oct 2, 2019 20:03:06 GMT 1
um, ok, just looked at the video, that's some way away from being standard, I can see a whole host of differences, do you know which loom is fitted to it, is it as bitsa bike?, if so, you'll need to identify which parts are from what model/year as even the timing gears etc for the cranks got changed and modifications done, so any number of small changes/differences could cause these problems
Easiest way to track down the problem is to run it up on a dyno in a controlled environment so you can see exactly what is or is not happening........
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Post by muttsnuts on Oct 2, 2019 20:06:16 GMT 1
ah, just had a thought, which model is it and which carbs are fitted to it, plus has it had the carbs overhauled/serviced with after market kits ? The reason I ask is because there are 2 jetting specs depending upon the model/year of bike, if they have had the wrong kits used to overhaul them then the jet sizes will be wrong and if they are the wrong way round, it will be really lean, as some bikes run 165 mains, and others run 195 mains and this is carb/year dependant, so there are 2 different overhaul kits for the RD500 carbs HTH Checked all that. Jetted #200 mains and the right air and pilot jets. I’m staring to think I need to check on knozzles and needles. The easiest thing would to swap out the carbs off of my bike ok, so you know for sure that the carbs fitted are the ones that run larger mains ?, if not, then have you tried 165 mains to see what it does?, like I say, personally its best doing all of this on a dyno, it will save huge amounts of time and potential tears if it goes bang trying to find the fault with little or no means of checking what is happening when load/revs are being put on it
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Post by muttsnuts on Oct 2, 2019 20:08:18 GMT 1
erm, I noticed that the coils are located in non stock positions, I assume you do have the right coil wires on the right coils ?
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Post by 1601pete on Oct 2, 2019 20:11:54 GMT 1
um, ok, just looked at the video, that's some way away from being standard, I can see a whole host of differences, do you know which loom is fitted to it, is it as bitsa bike?, if so, you'll need to identify which parts are from what model/year as even the timing gears etc for the cranks got changed and modifications done, so any number of small changes/differences could cause these problems Easiest way to track down the problem is to run it up on a dyno in a controlled environment so you can see exactly what is or is not happening........ It’s not a standard loom but that not the issue. The reason I say that is the bike had a standard loom on it that was a bit of a mess. It was swapped out for a doner loom to try and prove that the wiring wasn’t the issue and the problem persisted. The decision was then taken to then rewire the bike professionally and it’s a really good job. But as expected we knew this wouldn’t make any difference and the problem persists. Engine is standard with some minor cleaning up of rough edges in casting around ports etc. It’s all times up properly ref cranks and balance shaft I’m going to swap the carbs off of my bike tomorrow and report back. My monies on wrong needle / needle jet combo
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Post by muttsnuts on Oct 2, 2019 20:16:10 GMT 1
I assume you have the vacuum tap take off blocked off if you are running off an auxilliary tank, also, you using the stock tank and fuel tap?, if so, have you got the correct fuel pipes from the tank going to the tap and to the correct pipes on the tap ?
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Post by 1601pete on Oct 2, 2019 20:21:04 GMT 1
I assume you have the vacuum tap take off blocked off if you are running off an auxilliary tank, also, you using the stock tank and fuel tap?, if so, have you got the correct fuel pipes from the tank going to the tap and to the correct pipes on the tap ? Yeah, vacuum take off blocked up. Been testing with aux tank. Running a standard tank. Will check when I put back together but problem stays the same when using either
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Post by muttsnuts on Oct 2, 2019 20:21:06 GMT 1
so if the carbs have been stripped and ultrasonically cleaned (as stated above), did you check/note what internals where fitted and checked that against the spec for the carbs/bike etc, if they have had kits fitted, then its highly likely you will have the wrong combo of parts fitted and needles and needle jets might be mismatched if none of those, then I'd say bite the bullet and get it on a dyno, if it was me, it would be on a dyno, but then I have one, so its easy for me to say !! ![:P](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/tongue.png)
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Post by muttsnuts on Oct 2, 2019 20:23:22 GMT 1
haha, just remembered a fault I had on one recently, you sure its 6k rpm?, the reason I ask is because I had a bike that wasn't revving (supposedly) and it turned out to be the tacho was faulty and stopped at 7k rpm !! - that was a bitch to find !!! ![:P](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/tongue.png) - just a thought !
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Post by 1601pete on Oct 2, 2019 20:33:03 GMT 1
haha, just remembered a fault I had on one recently, you sure its 6k rpm?, the reason I ask is because I had a bike that wasn't revving (supposedly) and it turned out to be the tacho was faulty and stopped at 7k rpm !! - that was a bitch to find !!! ![:P](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/tongue.png) - just a thought ! 🤣🤣. I’m pretty sure I’d notice the difference between 5k and 10k rpm 😂
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Post by muttsnuts on Oct 2, 2019 20:34:57 GMT 1
LOL - I am fairly sure you would, but this customer couldn't, I did suggest they maybe buy a different type of bike !!! ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png)
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 2, 2019 20:54:31 GMT 1
LOL - I am fairly sure you would, but this customer couldn't, I did suggest they maybe buy a different type of bike !!! ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png) Ha Ha i know a few people that have tried to help other people with their 2 strokes who have thought that.
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Post by tacky1 on Oct 2, 2019 21:27:56 GMT 1
It might sound a bit drastic but disconnect the pipes. If they are blocked (some people have left rags and stuff in there by accident) that would def stop it revving. It will be fkin loud for the 3 seconds you will need to run it to prove the point The windows aren't necessary to run, I run all mine with Wisecos and they have no windows,
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Post by muttsnuts on Oct 2, 2019 21:41:34 GMT 1
It might sound a bit drastic but disconnect the pipes. If they are blocked (some people have left rags and stuff in there by accident) that would def stop it revving. It will be fkin loud for the 3 seconds you will need to run it to prove the point The windows aren't necessary to run, I run all mine with Wisecos and they have no windows, that answers that question then, anyway, had some more thoughts while I was in the shower washing my small parts - TMI I know !! ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png) What clocks are you running, are they the RZV ones, if so they have a restrictor in them, the bikes won't rev much past 8k and struggle to do that, you can tell if its them as they have a red diode in the tacho which lights up The other thing, are you running it with no air filter box sides or top on e.g. are you running it with the carbs open like in your video, if so then you won't have a pray of getting it to rev on 200 mains, it will need something like 260's on open carbs and maybe bigger and probably 30 pilots
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Post by 1601pete on Oct 2, 2019 21:42:50 GMT 1
It might sound a bit drastic but disconnect the pipes. If they are blocked (some people have left rags and stuff in there by accident) that would def stop it revving. It will be fkin loud for the 3 seconds you will need to run it to prove the point The windows aren't necessary to run, I run all mine with Wisecos and they have no windows, I’m pretty sure I used Mitaka piston in my bike (not the problem bike btw this thread is about). They were all the same front and rear. No issues 5k Mike’s later
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Post by 1601pete on Oct 2, 2019 21:46:37 GMT 1
The windows aren't necessary to run, I run all mine with Wisecos and they have no windows, that answers that question then, anyway, had some more thoughts while I was in the shower washing my small parts - TMI I know !! ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png) What clocks are you running, are they the RZV ones, if so they have a restrictor in them, the bikes won't rev much past 8k and struggle to do that, you can tell if its them as they have a red diode in the tacho which lights up The other thing, are you running it with no air filter box sides or top on e.g. are you running it with the carbs open like in your video, if so then you won't have a pray of getting it to rev on 200 mains, it will need something like 260's on open carbs and maybe bigger and probably 30 pilots Not RZV clocks. So I don’t think theres a restriction there. Not running open carbs on test. Using standard air box with standard filter
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Post by muttsnuts on Oct 2, 2019 21:47:28 GMT 1
well I am out of ideas then, time for dyno I reckon........
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Post by tacky1 on Oct 2, 2019 23:17:18 GMT 1
I agree, I would get it on a dyno and try and figure it out as you seem to have covered everything I would have done and everyone else, The dyno will get you sorted I think Pete...
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YZR654
L plate rider.
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Posts: 44
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Post by YZR654 on Oct 7, 2019 0:00:31 GMT 1
have you checked the exhausts are all getting warm ,it may not be getting fuel through to the right hand bank of carbs sometimes you can get a air lock where the fuel line crosses over to the right hand side , this is also a cause of the rear right cylinder seizing, have had this problem on one of my 500s wouldn't run properly or rev I now run separate feeds to each side and never get problem any more, mind you mine is highly tuned
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Post by motolli on Oct 7, 2019 11:50:59 GMT 1
Hello Pete, I am new here in this UK Forum, but active in the RDRZ500 Forum for a while. I know this flat ( rich ) spot between 5000 and 6000 RPM very well. It is caused by the shape of the stock elephant ears and the airbox. It's a kind of resonance effect. To get rid of the sputtering behaviour there, you should check your jetting. It seems to be far too rich. My Rd500 ( Lomas, Stock airbox, Zeeltronic ) runs very well with the following -> Main jets 170-175, Needle 4L10 or 5L0 middle Clip, pilotjet 25, airjet 1.4 ) without airbox and elephant ears, using pod filters, this problem dissapears, but others will come. The best solution is to keep the stock airbox and focus on a fine jetting. The Zeeltronic CDI is more flexible ( programmable ), but you will achieve good results with the Standard CDI also.
best regards Oliver
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