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F1 Bitsa
Jan 21, 2020 22:30:52 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by doohanno1 on Jan 21, 2020 22:30:52 GMT 1
Lovely work going into this...
Interesting that the oistons are " sided".. Did it come up recently that Grampiam weren't doing this anymore.??
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Post by mak595 on Jan 21, 2020 23:20:45 GMT 1
Dunno, but deffo done on my barrels ...
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Post by mak595 on Jan 24, 2020 21:59:14 GMT 1
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Post by donkeychomp on Jan 25, 2020 0:25:26 GMT 1
Nice! What's the bike with the yellow wheel and what seems like the largest tyre ever fitted to anything?
Alex
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Post by marrcel on Jan 25, 2020 9:49:30 GMT 1
Lovely work going into this... Interesting that the oistons are " sided".. Did it come up recently that Grampiam weren't doing this anymore.?? What is the reason these pistons are marked L and R? Do they have different bores on the barrels?
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 25, 2020 10:18:34 GMT 1
Tidy looking engine Dusty
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Post by mak595 on Jan 25, 2020 11:00:54 GMT 1
Nice! What's the bike with the yellow wheel and what seems like the largest tyre ever fitted to anything? Alex Yamaha MT10
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Post by mak595 on Jan 25, 2020 11:02:34 GMT 1
Lovely work going into this... Interesting that the oistons are " sided".. Did it come up recently that Grampiam weren't doing this anymore.?? What is the reason these pistons are marked L and R? Do they have different bores on the barrels? Same bore (1.50) but grampian engineering match the pistons to the barrel
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Post by mak595 on Jan 25, 2020 11:04:31 GMT 1
Tidy looking engine Dusty Thanks Dusty, not in your league but wanted it to look presentable....
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Post by jon on Jan 25, 2020 11:12:44 GMT 1
Lovely work going into this... Interesting that the oistons are " sided".. Did it come up recently that Grampiam weren't doing this anymore.?? What is the reason these pistons are marked L and R? Do they have different bores on the barrels? I suspect it’s a hang up from the past where it would have been regularly needed. These days I suspect it’s rarely needed. The important thing is that the pistons are measured to give an idea of what the bore size should be after adding a tolerance. If the pistons measure the same then there is no need to mark them. In the past I suspect machining tolerances necessitated marking them as they would have been slightly different sizes? With today’s machining tolerances I doubt you’ll see a difference. The last 3 rebores I have had were all done by Bob Farnham. He measured all the pistons, and was happy they were paired for size so didn’t mark them. I also weighed them on an accurate scale and they were so close in weight I didn’t even bother trying to match them. Jon
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Post by jon on Jan 25, 2020 11:23:48 GMT 1
I would like to add something else though.
Whether it’s needed or not I do tend to mark pistons left and right on a motor I’ve stripped down that has been run.
9 times out of 10 I end up getting new pistons, but a lot of the time they are within limits and could go again.
If I reuse them, I like to keep the wear between piston and cylinder paired up.
Jon
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Post by marrcel on Jan 25, 2020 11:39:31 GMT 1
I would like to add something else though. Whether it’s needed or not I do tend to mark pistons left and right on a motor I’ve stripped down that has been run. 9 times out of 10 I end up getting new pistons, but a lot of the time they are within limits and could go again. If I reuse them, I like to keep the wear between piston and cylinder paired up. Jon Yes i agree on that. Keep it paired when used. But new pistons from the same batch and new bores, i can’t understand.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 25, 2020 12:14:48 GMT 1
I would like to add something else though. Whether it’s needed or not I do tend to mark pistons left and right on a motor I’ve stripped down that has been run. 9 times out of 10 I end up getting new pistons, but a lot of the time they are within limits and could go again. If I reuse them, I like to keep the wear between piston and cylinder paired up. Jon Yes i agree on that. Keep it paired when used. But new pistons from the same batch and new bores, i can’t understand. I think it's a way to keep the customer happy and the customer feels like he is getting top quality work, which is something we all want when we pay for something.
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Post by JonW on Jan 25, 2020 13:20:21 GMT 1
My reborer has said that modern pistons are made so well that you only need to measure for a sense check. If they were designed for a bore size, then thats what they go in.
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Post by arrow on Jan 25, 2020 13:23:50 GMT 1
Nice work there.
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Post by mak595 on Jan 26, 2020 9:38:07 GMT 1
Thanks, got your oil pump to bolt up once i get a worm gear shim from Fowlers, back ordered atm but hopefully it should turn up next week....
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Post by jon on Jan 26, 2020 9:57:09 GMT 1
Yes i agree on that. Keep it paired when used. But new pistons from the same batch and new bores, i can’t understand. I think it's a way to keep the customer happy and the customer feels like he is getting top quality work, which is something we all want when we pay for something. +1 Jon
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Post by arrow on Jan 26, 2020 14:26:22 GMT 1
Thanks, got your oil pump to bolt up once i get a worm gear shim from Fowlers, back ordered atm but hopefully it should turn up next week.... After I sent you the advice note, you should have said. I could have sent you one.
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Post by mak595 on Jan 26, 2020 15:06:07 GMT 1
Thanks, got your oil pump to bolt up once i get a worm gear shim from Fowlers, back ordered atm but hopefully it should turn up next week.... After I sent you the advice note, you should have said. I could have sent you one. TBH i didn't know i needed one, only got the engine out from under the bench a couple of weeks ago and it was mostly stripped down, just been building it up from the stash of parts i've got, no its biggie
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Post by arrow on Jan 26, 2020 15:08:52 GMT 1
No worries.
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Post by mak595 on Feb 2, 2020 22:15:43 GMT 1
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Post by JonW on Feb 3, 2020 12:26:22 GMT 1
Ive not read the whole thread but you have checked that your CDI will work with your stator I assume? there is a list of what is compatible etc.
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Post by headcoats on Feb 3, 2020 12:57:22 GMT 1
Has the sticker on the cdi been replaced over the original ?
Maybe get someone local to lend you a known working cdi or get a Zeeltronic fitted ?
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Post by mak595 on Feb 3, 2020 15:45:21 GMT 1
Ive not read the whole thread but you have checked that your CDI will work with your stator I assume? there is a list of what is compatible etc. Should be compatible according to norbo info page
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Post by mak595 on Feb 3, 2020 15:48:28 GMT 1
Has the sticker on the cdi been replaced over the original ? Maybe get someone local to lend you a known working cdi or get a Zeeltronic fitted ? The sticker looks original, just the top laminate coming off, a zeel would probably sort it but I'm selling the bike as soon as its done to pay for my 31k so don't really want to shell out , if possible....
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F1 Bitsa
Feb 3, 2020 17:36:31 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 3, 2020 17:36:31 GMT 1
1ua cdi's are not usually a problem. Are you sure the stator/rotor are both lc2
Its a pity you don't have an f2 rotor/stator to try
Going to run a 1ua on mine but using the matching stator
Steve
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Post by mak595 on Feb 3, 2020 19:09:11 GMT 1
Great news, She runs !!! I had two wires mixed up, and only problem i have is that she wont turn off. the black/white CDI wire is responable for that but there isnt a B/W in the F1 loom so i need to suss out how to get that wire in the start/start circuit, probably easy enough but electrics make my head hurt or maybe thats a garage full of 2 stroke cos i'm running it on a tank of 50:50 while the oil pump bleeds up
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Post by jon on Feb 3, 2020 19:17:35 GMT 1
Great news, She runs !!! I had two wires mixed up, and only problem i have is that she wont turn off. the black/white CDI wire is responable for that but there isnt a B/W in the F1 loom so i need to suss out how to get that wire in the start/start circuit, probably easy enough but electrics make my head hurt or maybe thats a garage full of 2 stroke cos i'm running it on a tank of 50:50 while the oil pump bleeds up I’m not surprised it didn’t start if your running premix 50:50 LOL Surely you mean 50:1. I always prime the oil tubes with a syringe of 2T. Then pull the oil pump wire up when it’s ticking over until it smokes like hell. Jon
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F1 Bitsa
Feb 3, 2020 19:32:09 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 3, 2020 19:32:09 GMT 1
Great news
As for the kill switch wiring look at the wiring diagram and see what the kill switch does
On the lc2 and f2 it simply connects the black/white wire to earth
The ignition switch does the same thing so you should be able to identify the kill switch wires at the connector and link those wires to the kill circuit at the ignition switch
Steve
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Post by mak595 on Feb 3, 2020 20:54:25 GMT 1
One last push this evening, pulled back the insulation on the loom by the CDI and found a rogue red wire with no connection on it, connected it to the B/W on the CDI and it now works and turns off on the button/key Happy days Still loads of jobs to do but great knowing the wiring is sorted My mate txted me saying the fairing should be painted this week
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