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Post by JonW on Nov 12, 2019 2:38:21 GMT 1
And then onto the electrics... While the OEM LC loom was already installed and tested (i.e. headlight, clocks and flashers etc all worked) at this point I hadn’t connected any of the engine related parts at all, ie the Stator, YPVS or the CDI. On this install I was a little pedantic that I wanted to use everything from a 51L 250 and all from 1985 as I wanted this bike to be a full transplant of the of 51L setup, including the exhausts and electrics as Yamaha designed them since I’ve been told that everything works so well together. You may recall that the 51L-50 CDI (from a Japanese imported N1) had already been installed on a plate at the front lower edge of the rear mudguards, ie where the original LC CDI lives and the wires all run upwards so they could be reached from above. Next to go on would be the stator from an Aussie 1GA. I started by using fine valve grinding paste between the flywheel and crank to ensure the flywheel had a good fit. This is not really for helping it lock onto the crank, but for electrical conductivity. I’ve had issues before where the flywheel can sit on only part of the crank and where it earths it can weld and/or spark erode either component. Lapping this area for the perfect fit is a simple way to avoid these issues. Simply put on some paste, spin the flywheel back and forth a few times, pull the flywheel off and turn it a bit and put it back in a different position. Repeat that for 10mins, redistributing any grinding paste that’s been pushed away back into use as needed. This task is simple and cheap to do and very effective, I recommend it. With that done it was on to one of most hated jobs on any bike; replacing the stator rubber grommet. Getting the pins out of the connector is just horrible and you generally end up with sore fingers and aching hands even when using the correct tools. I even have the posh Lisle set and it’s still a struggle. Something to note is that I did find that the round ‘tube’ tools can deform from all the pushing and the ends open out like mini trumpets and no longer hold the pins flush, grinding that area away and getting back to straight tube will make the job much easier, although the tool becomes shorter with every clean up. With the plugs off it’s just a bit a of threading and you can clean up all the wires and the plugs before refitting. Those tasks complete, the stator and flywheel were on and I snaked the wiring around under the carbs using the correct route and clamps, never easy with the carbs on – I should have done this a while back really. One thing I would say is that the grommet I used must be some kind of repro unit and while being given a gentle prod with a blunt object to help it though the hole in case it ripped like it was made of cheese. It’s not a huge problem but beware of liquorice masquerading as rubber. The sellers of these things should at least warn you they are not as solid as the OEM rubber, although I have to say that I’ve never knowingly bought an aftermarket version of this part, so wherever I got it from was obviously not saying it wasn’t OEM. Hmm, shonky sellers... Sigh... I wasn’t 100% sure on where the YPVS controller (from a 1GA) will ultimately live but I’m thinking it will be in the tail. I’ve looked at other options and basically gave up. To be honest the tail is fine, the new runs of cable from the CDI and the power/ground would need making up anyway. The only difference was that the YPVS mini loom (It’s a standalone set of wiring from controller to servo simply taped inside the actual bike loom on YPVS equipped RD/RZ machines) I’d stripped from an old loom was now too short. Looking around in my spares I found another of these mini looms and since these have male and female ends and simply connect all the wires across the plug, I could just use the OEM connectors to clip it in to extend the reach for testing. It’s a little long like this and I may just lengthen a single loom instead once I’ve sited the controller, however this worked for testing and gave me options. Next I needed to start making real connections. I will say that wiring the ‘85 stator, CDI and YPVS into the LC isn’t as hard as you think, it just takes a bit of studying of the wiring diagrams for the two bikes. Using matching Stator, CDI and PV controller helps as many of the wires from these units connect to each other, even using their original connectors in places where they don’t integrate into the bike loom. An example of this is the 85’s white with red and green tracer twin ignition triggers which you retain as the matching year CDI has the same inputs and connector. Of course, another is the aforementioned PV controller to the servo cabling where stripping the whole 5 wire loom and connectors from old looms means you can run that separate loom directly to the servo, with no integration required at all. There are also some standard-across-all-the-RD/RZs connectors like the stator hexagon connector that carries the three white (3 phase) and one blue wire (neutral switch). This is a simple clip into the LC loom, job done! Not everything is that easy though as these are some connections that you do need to integrate into the bike’s loom, mostly for power and ground but there are also other functions that are controlled by switches. One example of this is the 3 prong loom connector that includes the orange coil wire and also the kill switch from the loom to the ignition. The orange wire is pretty self evident as there is no other place for it to go but the stator and CDI have a matching pair of red/white male and female connectors, so its easy to assume you just connect them together... Oops... and what also wont help is that the kill switch wiring changed colour on the ‘85 to red/white which can easily fool new players as its black/white on most Yams of the era. So it’s not obvious that these red/white wires need to be connected to the black/white without spending time with the wiring diagrams and thinking its though. Remember that if you don’t work this circuit into the loom at the 3 prong connector then the key/kill switch wont do anything... A true schoolboy error to have a bike you cant switch off, ooops! Just to make sure I wouldn’t mess up I quickly knocked up my own custom wiring diagram for this bike. Not pretty but functional. To get as good an integration as possible I did the connection work using items cut from old looms that I’ve bought up over the years. This meant I could use OEM connectors and even strip out the correct colour wire to use in the circuits. Old wire is a funny thing though, often you need to strip back quite a way from the plugs and cut ends of old looms to find clean and shiny copper, the black looking oxidised wires near the cut ends and plugs may have become wet and rotted and will never give a good enough connection as they will not take soldering etc. Always strip back to clean bare wire, after all you don’t want old dodgy wiring on your project. Confession time... I didn’t match all the wires. I did well and the only wire I couldn’t match in colour was the black/yellow as there wasn’t any of that in my old looms. I could have bought some but it was only a single wire in a two wire loom with a proper OEM connector so pretty obvious what (and where) it was meant to be. One thing I would also say is that to removing the connector ends with the Lisle tools and cleaning the connectors makes a huge difference, that simple tooth brush and copious spray with penetrating oil will have your new connections and mini looms looking like new OEM. All this is worth the extra effort I believe in case anyone else ever has to work on the bike as wiring everything with some one colour wire from the local electrics or car shop is fine on initial install but can be beguiling down the track, especially if taped into a loom, needing a lot more work to fathom any issues. Not impossible of course, but no one is going to thank you for it or think you did a pro job. On the YPVS bikes a 5A fuse is used to protect the YPVS power feed. Obviously I wanted to give my installation this protection as well so added an inline fuse to the +12v supply near the unit. In my spares I found a nice spring loaded inline fuse holder that I’d harvested from something that had a 0.5A fuse. I gently removed the ‘0.’ so the applied band reads ‘5AMP’ to aid anyone coming along later, although it would be obvious once they had the fuse in their hands of course. In testing I found that switching on the ignition gave me the correct whirring from the PV servo and I now have a neutral light. This is about as much simple empirical testing (ie without a meter) as can be done at this point, but its all in the right direction of course. I now need to finally site the PV controller and then tape my new wire runs and looms into the existing loom runs to tidy it all up and have it hidden/integrated and looking like it’s OEM.
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251LC
Nov 13, 2019 0:04:53 GMT 1
Post by donkeychomp on Nov 13, 2019 0:04:53 GMT 1
Woah. TOO much wiring! Glad you are on top of it. I loathe electrics!
Alex
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251LC
Nov 13, 2019 0:30:25 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Nov 13, 2019 0:30:25 GMT 1
Woah. TOO much wiring! Glad you are on top of it. I loathe electrics! Alex haha, so many people say that but I enjoy it. Getting stuff like this to work isnt hard and its very rewarding to do.
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251LC
Nov 14, 2019 0:22:24 GMT 1
Post by oldbritguy on Nov 14, 2019 0:22:24 GMT 1
That picture of all those loose wires gives me the horrors!!!!! And I have just done my own loom, that may be why
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251LC
Nov 14, 2019 0:37:53 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Nov 14, 2019 0:37:53 GMT 1
Haha, you guys! I love this part of the build. soldering and crimping and locating parts on the bike is just the best lol.
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Post by JonW on Nov 21, 2019 1:17:02 GMT 1
Sorry for the infrequent updates but I tend to do them on days when I can’t get into the garage and work on the bikes, usually this time of year its days when its over 30DegC as at that point my shed becomes an oven with temps well in excess of 50 and you struggle to work as your hands are too sweaty. Attractive I know... However, the recent bushfire issues (our suburb was actually mentioned on the UK news last week I’ve been told) have meant we have been expending more effort worrying about what to take in the event we are evacuated rather than thinking of building bikes, but I’ve been out there on the less hot or smoky days doing work when I can. Today’s update comes to you courtesy of yet another day when the air quality is too bad to be outside if you don’t need to. News sources reporting that it’s actually worse out there air quality wise than Jakarta or Beijing and it’s been said that travelling into the city is the equivalent of smoking four ciggies. 9news says this: “Thick smoke from bushfires has triggered a 'hazardous' air quality warning for Sydney as the haze blankets the city in a choking cloud. Almost 50 blazes are burning across NSW, and two of them have been upgraded to emergency warning status as conditions deteriorate. There are 12 total fire bans in place across the state.” They also provided this natty graphic for Sydneysiders who are not sure what it means for them – so many city dwellers have no idea about fires (and yes I’m fully aware that we have it easy compare to other parts of the state as I have friends in the north who are really suffering, some losing property etc.) And my wife took this photo from her office block this morning. Spooky... Anyway, enough being British and chatting about the weather... To find out what’s new on the 51LC is why you’re reading this... So let’s talk about that! With the wiring now understood, I finalised the position of the PV controller and wired it in fully. I’ve said before that the LC is a small bike and really doesn’t lend itself well to having more electrical stuff crammed into it. The more features that you add the more it becomes about packaging rather than anything else. While this build has a lot less additional modern electrical gubbins in it than my 421, I still wanted it to look and feel somewhat natural as an LC in use with all of the upgrades hidden. Normally I’d have just used the rear compartment as an easy solution but I wanted to retain it as this bike was conceived to be used as ‘city transport’ and that storage area is one of the grown up features that the old school LC enjoys, marking it out as ‘more usable’ than the likes of a Supermoto etc, another is a center stand. I mean where else will I put my croissant after I’ve downed my Latte... Living the Hipster dream! Er... Anyway, the PV controller now lives under the seat tang above the rear shock, where the tool tray would go on a standard LC. I spent a lot of time messing with options for placement and since using the tail was no longer an option and I wanted to avoid the direct heat from the engine, there we not many places left. I used one the PV controller mounting holes to mount it to the flat ledge on the front part of the rear inner mudguard where the connectors usually are clipped in - they are now behind the battery and easy enough to access by removing the battery tray. While the PV controller is only held by one end that’s how it is on the 500 and other bikes (although its vertical on those bikes) but it is actually very solidly mounted and secure, more than I thought it would be to be honest and horizontal movement is checked by the seat tang so it wont ‘wobble’ and end up in the shock spring. This location has meant I could simplify and shorten the wiring and that helped a lot since there is less cable running around the bike to hide. There is actually about half as much room again over what is shows in the photo, it’s very hard to accurately photo into this area close up to the frame etc: I could probably tidy up the wiring some more, but for now this is what it looks like Continuing the wiring theme I made up some HT leads. I was going to use the Dynatek kit since I had it, but it seemed a bit sad to cut the leads down and I also had some loose copper core leads lying around so I just went with those and I recycled some NGK caps that came with another coil. Yes, I’m still trying to use up the parts I have where I can. I did use some new 90degree bend coil connectors though to get a nice fit at the coil. I finally put the tie bars on. As an aside, in the process I finally worked out the difference between the 1UA and the others, the 1UA has smaller ‘heads’ in case you were wondering, gawd knows why. Yeah I’m not sure why these bars hadn’t been fitted earlier either... No matter they are on now. With the PV controller fitted and all the shorter wiring in place I was testing the PVs with the keyswitch and didn’t like how slow they sounded. They were tight when I fitted them in each cylinder to be honest and I put this down to being new parts, but something needed to be done. I decided to pull out the end seals and spray some lube in as well as up the exhaust ports and spin them with a drill to bed in. I found them to be much better after a few 30 second bursts and I’m hopeful that in use they will further improve.
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251LC
Nov 21, 2019 10:08:22 GMT 1
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 21, 2019 10:08:22 GMT 1
Good work Jon
I had an image in my head when you said deciding what to take in case of evacuation
I can see you and the Mrs standing beside a pick up that has 10 bikes strapped to it Indian style and bike parts stuffed in every cubby hole while your other half has a small bag in one hand and holding a cat in the other looking bemused as there is an engine in her seat 🤣🤣🤣
Steve
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251LC
Nov 21, 2019 13:53:00 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Nov 21, 2019 13:53:00 GMT 1
Good work Jon I had an image in my head when you said deciding what to take in case of evacuation I can see you and the Mrs standing beside a pick up that has 10 bikes strapped to it Indian style and bike parts stuffed in every cubby hole while your other half has a small bag in one hand and holding a cat in the other looking bemused as there is an engine in her seat 🤣🤣🤣 Steve PMSLMAO!!! Steve! Too funny... and pretty much bang on the money! If only i had a pick up (she'll be called a Ute down under)... Instead I have two saloon cars, still they can fit quite a lot of bike bits haha.
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251LC
Nov 21, 2019 14:12:42 GMT 1
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 21, 2019 14:12:42 GMT 1
I was thinking Ute but couldn't work out how to spell it 🤣🤣🤣
Steve
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251LC
Nov 22, 2019 0:04:10 GMT 1
Post by donkeychomp on Nov 22, 2019 0:04:10 GMT 1
That picture overlooking the harbour. Unreal. I know bush fires over there are a huge issue, sometimes naturally caused and often by total f**ktards who can't be trusted with a bbq but be safe mate. Bikes and parts mean nothing if you are not around to use them!
Onto the LC...ingenious hidey places, going to be very unique this build!
Alex
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251LC
Nov 22, 2019 0:41:46 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Nov 22, 2019 0:41:46 GMT 1
That picture overlooking the harbour. Unreal. I know bush fires over there are a huge issue, sometimes naturally caused and often by total f**ktards who can't be trusted with a bbq but be safe mate. Bikes and parts mean nothing if you are not around to use them! Onto the LC...ingenious hidey places, going to be very unique this build! Alex Yes, the police have recently rounded up quite a few firebugs and most of them are young blokes (kids) who they dont really know how to punish. They have taken to showing them round a burns unit and showing the destruction. I guess more than half of them realise theyve been an idiot and are sorry, the others probably just think 'burns... cool! house all charred up... Cool!'. You cant really fix that without jail/shooting/electrodes-to-the-brain etc I suspect. This is a good article about the causes of fires: www.abc.net.au/news/science/2019-11-20/bushfire-ignition-source-how-we-know/11701132Thanks for the kind words about the bike. I'm not sure how unique a ypvs LC can be these days when this conversion has been done numerous times before but I am trying to integrate it as best as I can to make it seem more OEM. I could have simplified the task with the PV box by just using a one box Zeel/Iggy and fitting it where the OEM CDI lived. Would have been easy and better, but it's not what I wanted for this build, I wanted it to use OEM parts. Maybe later I might fit a prog ign to make the most of the power, but for now this is following my original plan. Nice to have that happen for once lol
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251LC
Nov 22, 2019 10:15:50 GMT 1
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 22, 2019 10:15:50 GMT 1
That picture overlooking the harbour. Unreal. I know bush fires over there are a huge issue, sometimes naturally caused and often by total f**ktards who can't be trusted with a bbq but be safe mate. Bikes and parts mean nothing if you are not around to use them! Onto the LC...ingenious hidey places, going to be very unique this build! Alex Don't believe what Jon's saying. That bridge pic ain't bush fires, if you zoom in You can see a couple of lc's on the bridge They don't have arrow to sort all the pumps over there, it's just over oiling 🤣 Steve
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Post by JonW on Nov 22, 2019 12:11:41 GMT 1
That picture overlooking the harbour. Unreal. I know bush fires over there are a huge issue, sometimes naturally caused and often by total f**ktards who can't be trusted with a bbq but be safe mate. Bikes and parts mean nothing if you are not around to use them! Onto the LC...ingenious hidey places, going to be very unique this build! Alex Don't believe what Jon's saying. That bridge pic ain't bush fires, if you zoom in You can see a couple of lc's on the bridge They don't have arrow to sort all the pumps over there, it's just over oiling 🤣 Steve Haha, too funny. I actually spent a very enjoyable afternoon with the Legend himself 18months back. Totally top bloke. He's done all my pumps and all my mates pumps as well. Without him we would all be lost
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Post by JonW on Nov 29, 2019 0:46:22 GMT 1
As I didn’t have one here I ordered up an LC output collar as the YPVS is 5mm wider (circa 14 vs 19mm) and this means the chain run on the LC wont line up. Sadly this is an NLA part now, but I managed to get one on ebay for under a Britsih tenner, phew! I fitted it with one of norbos 17T front sprockets so as to get as close a match (differing only 1%) to the gearing of the 350 I have as I wanted to compare the two bikes back to back and having totally different gearing would be kind of pointless, plus Yam says that ratio is what high 40’s bhp needs to drive the wheel and so that’s what I’ll do initially. What many people don’t know about LCs is that the different rear wheels mean that this wasn’t as simple as bolting on the same sprockets, the 250 rear sprocket is quite different to the 350s. “Off with his hea...” I mean ‘On with the chain!’!!! It’s been a long week... Lol. I decided to try out a chain from ‘JT chains’ as I saw a silly offer on them a while back on Amazon for something like $50 delivered and thought ‘They make good sprockets so it should (!) be ok’. I used pretty much their top of the line X ring, dubbed X1R, which is a heavy duty chain. I bought one with 104 links and it fitted without cutting which was a first for me! I usually buy 120link chains as they are nice and generic for everything and just cut then down Their website states ‘up to 900 cc / 130 bhp (97 kW)’. So it shouldn’t be troubled by my lil’ 250 making under 50bhp. Quite why the LC was built with a 530 chain has always been beyond me, but hey it was designed in the 70s and maybe there was such a thing as ‘Chain Envy’.. Perhaps there was a stat in Top Trumps for chain size and you could rival some 1100cc monster with the LC proving itt was a bike for real men. Anyway, I digress... As I have been using their (JT, of course) sprockets for decades I have high hopes this chain will be fine but we’ll see. Sadly the chain in the deal came with a rivet link which was annoying, but I managed to locate a split link but the only one I could find at the time was gold, and the chain isn’t. Luckily the steel coloured plate from the rivet link was exactly the same so on the outside the chain link is not noticeable. Once fitted I tested the run with the Profi Cat and it is about 2mm out across the full run. As usual the good old LC swinger is bent of course but not as bad as some, 2mm isnt too bad over the length of the chain and of course its why there is a chain fitted as chains can cope with being a little out of whack. However, I’ve yet to fully test the location of the rear axle to the swinger pin, but once that’s done I’ll play with the front sprocket location to get a better fit if I can, no sense leaving 2mm on the table if I don’t have to. In the meantime I set the slack and readjusted the rear brake lever arm which Id not fitted on the correct ‘dots’ for some reason. Most people don’t know about these punch marks which the factory fitted, if you ever don’t know where parts fit you should check to see if these dots exist as they will save you time and lots of parts have them to save mechanics and the factory time. Next I put on the exhausts that I spray painted a while back. I made up the usual spacer rings from cut down coat hanger wire to help the collars act on the gasket and drilled a hole in the bracket to extend forward the elongated hole. Also opened this up to 10mm to accept the LC’s rear hanger bolt. Fitting was the usual pain of trying to get the gasket in the hole while balancing the end of the pipe at the same time to save scratching the paint, this time I glued the gasket to the exhaust with some Threebond to hold it while I did up the nuts. I used stainless acorns for this so they wont look crap as soon as they see heat like zinc would as it burns off very quickly leaving the fixings to rust. You should see what the heat from the turbo has done to the ones I had redone on the Evo... Nasty! Of course I couldn’t stop there and next I fitted the powder coated silencers. I reckon these look pretty good and at least are different to the norm which should make people wonder what they are. That said, I’m still not 100% sure if I should have just powdered these cans silver to ape the OEM ‘look’ and also seem more like aftermarket spannies. Hmm. That would have been simpler of course but I really wanted to go gloss black not only for contrast but as it was a good test of how well I could get these to come out as gloss black is the hardest colour to paint anything, of course powder is no different, as the surface reflects any and all marks and dents. To be honest I enjoyed the challenge of turning the old dented cans into something this good, but the silver would have helped accent the other silver zinc bolt heads and the polished YPVS cylinder head etc. Anyway, doubts are good as they give me ideas for the future... Nothing is ever finished... Or is it?! Haha! One thing I did find that wasn’t ideal was that the center stand bung on the LC isn’t in the right place on the 51L pipes. While this means a little extra ground clearance I think I’ll fab something to stop the bung acting directly on the body of the pipe as I expect the heat will cook the rubber stopper otherwise. Moving round the bike I felt it was time to put the fluids in. I poured in 1.5L of ELF 4xt Tech 10w50 in the gearbox (a strange choice but I wanted to see what it would be like), a litre of Elf 2XT Tech 2 stroke in the oil tank and 50% mix of some posh Nulon green coolant. Then said a short prayer for no leaks... I pulled the bike off the lift and swapped the brake fluid for DOT3 as Id put 4 in. Hmm... Maybe I’ve ruined the seals already but you never know. I’ll leave this in for a week and then flush and re-bleed it again. If you thought like me that DOT4 was ‘just a better version of DOT3’ then think again, it contains an additive that the Yamaha seals do not like. It says ‘DOT3 only’ on the top of the Master cylinder for a reason... Hmm. Doing that task meant pulling the bike off the lift as I needed to angle the steering to get the master cylinder level to fill it with fluid. Of course I also tested the brakes a bunch, cycling the suspension. When I put it back on the lift after the brake work I noticed that there were some oil drips. Hmm, Never good... A little while spent acting like Sherlock Holmes and I found it was coming from one of the fork leg boots. Shipping the boot up I found that the whole seal area was full to the brim of oil. Damn! This pretty much proves the point I’ve made elsewhere that you need to do EVERY SINGLE THING when you do a project. Leaving just one part unrestored means it will just bite you later. These forks we slapped on to tide me over and keep up my momentum early on and sadly twice that decision has bitten me now. So I’ve added swapping the seals to the snag list, lucky I just bought a set only last month for spares. one step forwards, then we stumble back...
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251LC
Nov 29, 2019 1:09:49 GMT 1
Post by donkeychomp on Nov 29, 2019 1:09:49 GMT 1
Lots of work there Jon and only the forks to resolve so a good day I reckon. Top tip on the little indents on the rear brake...I have never noticed those before!
Alex
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251LC
Nov 29, 2019 18:17:02 GMT 1
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 29, 2019 18:17:02 GMT 1
Exhausts turned out well Jon
Got a pair on the way myself 😉
Steve
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251LC
Nov 29, 2019 22:37:49 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Nov 29, 2019 22:37:49 GMT 1
Lots of work there Jon and only the forks to resolve so a good day I reckon. Top tip on the little indents on the rear brake...I have never noticed those before! Alex Yeah, I agree its not got long to go before it runs, but I still need to sort the bodywork tho the seat is done. Probably wont see the bodywork until next year :/ Exhausts turned out well Jon Got a pair on the way myself 😉 Steve Thanks Steve. haha, we must be the only people in the world to be actively seeking out 51L stuff at the moment
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251LC
Nov 30, 2019 11:45:56 GMT 1
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 30, 2019 11:45:56 GMT 1
[quote [/quote]Thanks Steve. haha, we must be the only people in the world to be actively seeking out 51L stuff at the moment [/quote] Tell me about it but does have it's benefits Where else can you get a pair of oem exhausts for £150 delivered 😁 Steve
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Post by JonW on Nov 30, 2019 12:00:34 GMT 1
Tell me about it but does have it's benefits Where else can you get a pair of oem exhausts for £150 delivered 😁 Steve If only we could get stuff at sensible prices in Aus... sigh... PS. sorted out your quotes...
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251LC
Dec 1, 2019 14:06:31 GMT 1
Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2019 14:06:31 GMT 1
Hey you, slow down to a gallop, who do you think you are Usain Bolt
I'm still waiting on bits to even start putting mine back together, doesn't help when you order something and they send you the wrong bit AND you only find out 9 months later hmm
Not sure if you want to do this or not, if you were to drill a hole in the top of the centre stand under the bracket where the bung should hit and put in a rivet nut you could then bolt the bung onto the stand by recessing the bung a bit and putting a penny washer and screw down the middle of it, the rivet nut should give you enough thread to make it secure enough
Although with your talents you could always weld a flange nut onto the top of the stand and achieve the same result, and you wouldn't need to cut off the original bracket, you just grind off the nut
I guess the bung will wear down to the head of the screw eventually, but I'd say the bung is probably an easy enough replica replacement from Clark Rubber, I reckon they would have something pretty close
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251LC
Dec 1, 2019 14:59:09 GMT 1
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 1, 2019 14:59:09 GMT 1
Had the problem before with the stand bung
Drilled a 6mm hole in the pipe bracket and bolted a metal tab on to it for the bung to rest on
Steve
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251LC
Dec 1, 2019 23:18:31 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Dec 1, 2019 23:18:31 GMT 1
Steve's is the option I'd been considering, just need to make sure it doesnt 'buzz'. I'll have to have a looksee when im in there today. Ive a snag list of stuff to do but been playing with other projects... trying to give Howard a chance to catch up! lol
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251LC
Dec 2, 2019 16:18:18 GMT 1
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2019 16:18:18 GMT 1
I'm dead and buried on this one, the race was well and truly conceded before i started
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251LC
Dec 2, 2019 22:04:25 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Dec 2, 2019 22:04:25 GMT 1
Ahh. Anyway as a fellow 51L owner Im keen to see what you do with your set when you do get round to using them
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251LC
Dec 3, 2019 0:26:14 GMT 1
Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2019 0:26:14 GMT 1
Need a F1 frame first, thats the hard bit here as you know
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251LC
Dec 3, 2019 3:41:23 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Dec 3, 2019 3:41:23 GMT 1
Need a F1 frame first, thats the hard bit here as you know Or an LC frame...
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Post by JonW on Dec 4, 2019 7:06:21 GMT 1
Gradual progress ticking off jobs on the snag list.... E,g.: - Throttle cable fitted to the throttle now and swapped the clutch adjuster to a better fitting one, then put the grips and leaf on - Cleaned up and fitted the OEM plastic rad guard after a quick repair to two broken cross pieces - Did a bunch of other stuff that is to inane to mention and went round and made sure all the bolts were tight. - And yes I sorted out the the C/stand bung.... I drilled a 10mm hole in the ehaust and put the bung in that instead. Its not perfect and eventually it will compress at an angle, Ive seen that on some old bungs that had gone hard. However, I think its fine for now and bungs are easy to replace anyway if I had to. (in the photo it looks like the stand is close to the pipe, really its not, thats a trick of the angle of the photo. I do still have a wiring (earth I suspect) issue to hunt down as when keyed-on I don’t get power every time, lots of checking of connections should see that sorted...
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251LC
Dec 10, 2019 0:30:59 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Dec 10, 2019 0:30:59 GMT 1
More gradual progress ticking off jobs on the snag list.... And finally got some NOS parts in to put on the bike. My nos guy is right slap bang in the middle of the worst of the fires here so I was very thankful he was able to get these out to me. I bought stuff for a few projects of course and amongst them were these: All were quickly fitted, except the tacho cable rubber gasket, that’ll have to be done when I pull a carb off for some reason.
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251LC
Dec 10, 2019 0:45:52 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Dec 10, 2019 0:45:52 GMT 1
Since that was small, I'll give you another update... I couldn’t bring myself to pull the forks off again just yet so I decided to do some work on the bodywork. These need to be taken to the painter who will take his time away so may as well get that job done... I should have done them a while back of course... Yeah, yeah... Geez! Haha. I rifled through what I thought was a huge haul of bodywork only to discover that I had literally just enough parts for what I needed. I guess I moved on anything that wasn’t good enough a few years back, luckily I saved one spare set as I guess I ‘just knew’ I’d do one more LC lol. Countless hours were spent sanding down firmly stuck down and hard as hell old decals and multiple layers of paint to get to the plastic underneath. Finally I got there and started the repairs. Some with soldering iron and some with Wurth replast depending on what was required, both followed by Wurth Plastic Filler. I do this to save money at the painters... Or at least I hope I will. I figure this: 1, if the painter doesn’t havent to sand the panel I save some of his hours 2, If the painter doesn’t have to repair the panel I save some of his hours 3, If he can see there is no damage, ie he can see under the paint (cos its gone of course) then he wont give me a ‘worst case’ scenario price quote (which always turns out to be the minimum, not the maximum IME). I didn’t do a lot of photos, I did picture heavy posts on the Garage Art and have shown plastic repairs elsewhere so figured you saw that stuff. Here is an example tho, the front guard had a huge split in it. A nice solid repair. I fitted the re-zinc’d front mudguard bracket and located a pair of extra bolts that our ADM version come with back in the day. There are there as I believe there was still talk about us using the old front number plate system back then, luckily that rule didn’t come back! These bolts are not the actual ones I’ll use if I can help it as they should be smooth headed. This is where I am at... Cleaned off a lot of old junk back to the plastic. Test fitting, On the face of it this looks really good.... But it’s not without its issues... Funnily enough the red of the tank still isnt right lol (I already knew it was wrong as soon as the other decals arrived, its way too dark, almost maroon) And worse still the box was probably dropped by the postal system and bears a scar that will need attending to: Bear in mind this is a brand tank that was painted in Japan in JDM colours. I used to think the Japanese were very picky about everything and wouldn’t accept such a wrong colour, but I’ve since learnt from the car scene that Japanese bodywork is woeful and they get away with stuff you’d laugh at in the West and the customers seem not to mind. Weird I know. So the bizarre colour now doesn’t surprise me. Its annoying though as I paid extra to have this tank painted and other than the two issues it’s a really lovely job. Ive a few more things to fix on the plastic panels and then I will take the whole lot over to a couple if paint shops and get some prices... That’s the bit I really am not looking forward to as I know who I want to paint it but he’s the most expensive in Sydney, where paintwork costs the earth. If only Mark Cordwell lived in Aus.... Ok, onto something fixable at last... I hope... Alignment of the rear end is out. I was able to adjust the bolts for the subframe and light and wobble some bits around and get this better, not least around the rear light itself. To be honest, I’ve found these ducktails are always a poor fit now, were they like that back in the day I wonder? I really don’t remember, but we were less fussy about bodywork back then, shut lines were irrelevant to me as a late teenager, I just wanted to go fast!
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251LC
Dec 10, 2019 23:44:43 GMT 1
Post by donkeychomp on Dec 10, 2019 23:44:43 GMT 1
Never had an issue with the rear light like that before. Is something slightly twisted in there? And I agree that isn't red at all. But if that's how it left the factory I'd keep it like that. Makes the bike more unique and also genuine at the same time!
Alex
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