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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 28, 2020 20:37:33 GMT 1
I was led to believe it was due to airflow
Technically the carbs are trying to suck air flowing by at great speed in the opposite direction
Steve
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Post by perazzi350 on Oct 28, 2020 20:47:42 GMT 1
Ahh ok thanks Steve
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Post by 4l04ever on Oct 28, 2020 22:54:40 GMT 1
Some bike seem to get more air going in when moving. Seems to be to do with how the air moves around the bike when riding. If the air pressure was increased around the inlet area, then you may go leaner. Could also be to do with how the carbs deal with this pressure change, as they may be less efficient at picking up fuel with a higher air pressure. Shields around carbs can change fuelling. Look at the plastic shields fitted on TZ250 4DP bikes. Still air seems to be best for most carbs, which could get messed with by turbulence when the bike is moving. This effect will vary by bike/model and even the rider could influence the air flow by the inlet.
I have not personally seen any bikes which get richer on the road compared to the dyno, but have seen a few which go leaner. My own LC certainly goes leaner. Always seems to be on the right hand side for me, but that could just be slight tolerance differences between left and right carbs. This issue was not caused by air leaks on my LC, as I leak down tested after melt downs.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 28, 2020 23:04:39 GMT 1
That's why mutts is moving premises
Needs room for the hurricane fan to get the right air speed for flat out runs 😁
Steve
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Post by flames on Oct 29, 2020 22:36:43 GMT 1
If you are running pod filters I would imagine 140/150 jets are way too small??
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 29, 2020 23:22:09 GMT 1
140/150 main suggests pwk's
Steve
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Post by perazzi350 on Oct 30, 2020 13:02:06 GMT 1
140/150 main suggests pwk's Steve Spot on Steve pwk 28 , ram air pods👍
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 30, 2020 14:25:25 GMT 1
After reading the last 2 pages again I'm surprised your main jets were not bigger. The engine in Kees's bike had a similar performance to yours. His main jets were 165 with big pilots as well. His bike also seized because it was too lean. I guess there are lots of other factors that contribute to the jetting such as exhausts etc.
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Post by perazzi350 on Oct 31, 2020 14:59:57 GMT 1
After reading the last 2 pages again I'm surprised your main jets were not bigger. The engine in Kees's bike had a similar performance to yours. His main jets were 165 with big pilots as well. His bike also seized because it was too lean. I guess there are lots of other factors that contribute to the jetting such as exhausts etc. Hi Tobyjugs, I have just stripped carbs to have a look PWK 28/s L/h nearside is on 140 main and 45 Pilot r/h side Is on 138 main and 42 pilot I know before with OKO carbs set up by Mick Abbey it was on 150 mains And 50 pilots all PWK jets and Needles so I don't know I sent the bike off this is what its on it was nearside that seized. Cheers Steve
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 31, 2020 20:42:56 GMT 1
I see it's been on the dyno at Mutts place so the jetting must be good.
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Post by marrcel on Nov 19, 2020 20:44:25 GMT 1
Wel most of dyno work is been done with wot. Mine seized on the needle last year on the highway just doing 65mph. At 1/4 throttle. The high temperature I thought it was because it was sunny day. Not it was running lean. I never read the circumstances of the seizure of this thread. Was there a working temp gauge?
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Post by perazzi350 on Nov 19, 2020 22:18:19 GMT 1
Wel most of dyno work is been done with wot. Mine seized on the needle last year on the highway just doing 65mph. At 1/4 throttle. The high temperature I thought it was because it was sunny day. Not it was running lean. I never read the circumstances of the seizure of this thread. Was there a working temp gauge? Hi Marrcel, I don't know the reason for seizure, I was just coming off a roundabout opened up to about 8500 in third on nice bit of road when it happened ,it has working temperature gauge and was running mid 70's on my run, the gauge is in the Acewell clock. The jetting worries me !! Steve
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Post by perazzi350 on Dec 28, 2020 20:18:12 GMT 1
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Post by perazzi350 on Jan 1, 2021 12:13:27 GMT 1
Hi all Happy New Year hope it’s better for us all, OK I am trying to set timing with Power Dynamo I’ve got piston set at 1.9 but unsure where to align flywheel with the pick up there is a dot/indent in the wheel and raised sections X2 hope someone will explain in detail for me. Cheers. Steve
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 1, 2021 12:59:31 GMT 1
I think it depends on the ignition system you are using. Is this flywheel with a woodruff key?
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Post by perazzi350 on Jan 1, 2021 13:36:11 GMT 1
I think it depends on the ignition system you are using. Is this flywheel with a woodruff key? No its Power Dynamo with no woodruff key
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 1, 2021 14:23:42 GMT 1
Just read your thread and i see it has an Ignitech fitted and was already set up according to your last engine spec.
I am guessing a bit here but i would set the 1.9 mm using a piston stop to the leading edge of the trigger strip on your fly wheel and pickup. That means the front edge of the strip is in line with the middle of the round pickup point on the base plate in the running direction of the engine. When its in this position you can put a mark on the base plate and the flywheel/rotor (in line) in another position. When you run the engine at idle you can check these two marks line up with the strobe light. If they don't you can adjust the flywheel to suit. Remember not to tighten the flywheel too tightly until you are happy with the position.
The biggest problem is i can only give you advice which is a bit rough as the ignitech has been set up using a base setting so you could be a few degrees off.
If you know the base setting it would be easier. Hopefully Dave reads this and puts you on the ball.
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Post by perazzi350 on Jan 1, 2021 18:23:28 GMT 1
Just read your thread and i see it has an Ignitech fitted and was already set up according to your last engine spec. I am guessing a bit here but i would set the 1.9 mm using a piston stop to the leading edge of the trigger strip on your fly wheel and pickup. That means the front edge of the strip is in line with the middle of the round pickup point on the base plate in the running direction of the engine. When its in this position you can put a mark on the base plate and the flywheel/rotor (in line) in another position. When you run the engine at idle you can check these two marks line up with the strobe light. If they don't you can adjust the flywheel to suit. Remember not to tighten the flywheel too tightly until you are happy with the position. The biggest problem is i can only give you advice which is a bit rough as the ignitech has been set up using a base setting so you could be a few degrees off. If you know the base setting it would be easier. Hopefully Dave reads this and puts you on the ball. Thanks for your help and advice, and taking the time to explain. cheers Steve
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Post by perazzi350 on Feb 27, 2021 14:14:09 GMT 1
Hi all , so rebuilt engine all genuine seals etc used Robs Siamese gaskets and Athena head gasket, air tested all good finally got the hang of timing it up with Power Dynamo got it running all good, next time won’t start, next time starts but missing , next time no spark ! Ok so had a feel along the loom could feel a lump so investigated , it’s a proper badge/ mess bits everywhere so ordered a new loom from Alan’s electrics fitted it roughly today now fuggin ignition switch don’t fit mine must have had the connector block changed as it’s different to every one else’s, just came in and ordered new ignition switch another week to wait !! The saga continues, got the wire wheel YPVS out sat there since I bought it, 4 kicks away she goes, I must have bought the worst L C in uk LOL hoping this loom will cure it, good job I love her 😍.
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Post by perazzi350 on Feb 27, 2021 14:25:02 GMT 1
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 27, 2021 14:31:52 GMT 1
Your having a right mare with that engine mate
Nice to here that "spokey" is alive and well, I miss that one 😢
Not surprisingly I've bought a pair of hubs, had another Fazer stem modified and just dropped an FZ arm off to get machined 😆
Steve
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Post by perazzi350 on Feb 28, 2021 9:00:06 GMT 1
HI Steve, yea LC been a proper test its like the Devil bike, nice to hear the "Spokey" will be having a brother or sister, the "Leftovers" looks well cool as well. Steve
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 28, 2021 9:34:26 GMT 1
When you have finished the bike it will be a cracker.
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Post by abar121 on Feb 28, 2021 10:51:53 GMT 1
Some fun and games here. You've made a lovely bike out of it. Keep going!
I'm thinking about fitting a VAPE system to my RD400F. Very interested to see how you get on.
Cheers.
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Post by perazzi350 on Feb 28, 2021 13:22:16 GMT 1
Some fun and games here. You've made a lovely bike out of it. Keep going! I'm thinking about fitting a VAPE system to my RD400F. Very interested to see how you get on. Cheers. Hi, Dave (mutts) fitted it last year for me now I’ve got a new loom got to try and work out the wiring so probably be asking some more questions 👍👍
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 28, 2021 13:27:16 GMT 1
Did you get the timing sorted as i see i gave you a bit of wrong information the pick up is on the back edge of the timing strip on the fly wheel.
I was corrected by another forum member.
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Post by perazzi350 on Feb 28, 2021 13:28:04 GMT 1
Ok can’t do anymore on loom until ignition switch arrives so thought I’d check the carbs , floats etc, someone told me to put carb in a glass to see what’s happening, I had one very very slight non seal on one valve , changed all good 👍👍. You can see a real tiny stream coming from the float valve as it enters the fuel in the glass quite good I thought.
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Post by perazzi350 on Feb 28, 2021 13:37:31 GMT 1
Did you get the timing sorted as i see i gave you a bit of wrong information the pick up is on the back edge of the timing strip on the fly wheel. I was corrected by another forum member. Hi what do you mean back edge, i lined it up with the leading edge on the flywheel with lower edge of the pickup sensor as you look at the bike is this correct ?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 28, 2021 13:49:04 GMT 1
The Zeel takes the signal from the front of the strip on the fly wheel and the ignitech takes the signal from the back edge of the strip. i alway thought it was the other way around. It will be easy enough to adjust.
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Post by perazzi350 on Feb 28, 2021 13:54:00 GMT 1
The Zeel takes the signal from the front of the strip on the fly wheel and the ignitech takes the signal from the back edge of the strip. i alway thought it was the other way around. It will be easy enough to adjust. ok cheers for that info. Thanks Steve
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