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Post by Tobyjugs on Aug 19, 2020 19:23:32 GMT 1
Hey Tobyjugs, bike is looking stunning! Glad you are spending time getting the suspension sorted, it will be well worth it. As far as the stand goes, it looks like an 'ABBA' stand, they are UK based abbastands.co.uk/HTH Mouse Thanks Mouse your dead right about the stand. i'm going to get one |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Aug 19, 2020 19:25:09 GMT 1
On the track of Zandvoort i used 2018 to dial in my r6 shock and fazer forks. 2019 again with a stronger spring for the R6 shock. Static sag, road sag and track sag do differ a lot. Fortunately there is one corner near by which comes close to track use. 2021 i hope there are new opportunities again! Is Zandvoort closed? |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 19, 2020 19:40:34 GMT 1
Hey Tobyjugs, bike is looking stunning! Glad you are spending time getting the suspension sorted, it will be well worth it. As far as the stand goes, it looks like an 'ABBA' stand, they are UK based abbastands.co.uk/HTH Mouse Thanks Mouse your dead right about the stand. i'm going to get one You get a roller kit for it too, excellent for moving it around the workshop Steve  |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Aug 19, 2020 21:03:38 GMT 1
Thanks Mouse your dead right about the stand. i'm going to get one You get a roller kit for it too, excellent for moving it around the workshop Steve Great bit of kit Steve |
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Post by mouse on Aug 20, 2020 7:37:39 GMT 1
Yes, that looks really useful, i went to see them as they do frame straightening too (it's how they started) and they straightened my 31k frame after i fell off. I didn't realise they did a kit for 'powervalves', i wouldn't mind one myself.
Steve does it take up a lot of room when not in use?
Mouse
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Post by Tobyjugs on Aug 20, 2020 7:43:58 GMT 1
Yes, that looks really useful, i went to see them as they do frame straightening too (it's how they started) and they straightened my 31k frame after i fell off. I didn't realise they did a kit for 'powervalves', i wouldn't mind one myself. Steve does it take up a lot of room when not in use? Mouse On the website they make a bracket to hang it on the wall. Good for poking your eyes out when you walk past it. |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 20, 2020 8:42:58 GMT 1
The roller and the actual stand just sit against a wall taking up little room. Or hang it on the wall
Got the swing arm removal kit too
Just bobbins that go in the footplate mounts for lifting it and you can take the whole rear end out
Oh and the bar you fit to the stand then ratchet strap to the frame or arm to get both ends off the ground
I've never used it as easier to just stick an axle stand under the engine 😁
Steve
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Post by marrcel on Aug 20, 2020 10:13:47 GMT 1
[/quote]Is Zandvoort closed?[/quote]
Well my local club MacZandvoort is closed
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Post by Tobyjugs on Aug 23, 2020 12:39:14 GMT 1
Today i fitted the MK2 engine fixings. The engine is fitted with two of these steel/rubber washers in a standard frame. Due to the oversize crankshaft parts i thought i would add another two to the chassis to help with any extra vibration caused by the engine. Hmm I'm starting to think this is not such a good idea but i will stick with it for now. c  Since i posted that the engine is moving a forum member contacted me and asked me about the size of the fittings being used. These are a lot smaller in diameter than the vibration washer from Yamaha.  The forum member then explained that my fittings needed to be larger in diameter which did make sense. The result of the conversation ended up with me making a slightly different fitting.  Another idea added to the fitting was to make them a 0.5mm longer and recess the inside which butts up the the steel/rubber washer 0.5mm to put extra pressure on the steel/rubber washers before it touches the fitting in the block. The idea is to "grip" the engine a little tighter.  
This will not be tested until after i have sorted out the radiator. The radiator problem is not such a big issue to sort out but i just can't seem to find the enthusiasm to to do it even though i might have a solution to double the area of what i am presently using. Pff  |
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Post by 4l04ever on Aug 23, 2020 13:32:39 GMT 1
Can you put up pics to show how the new mounts are fitted and where they fit etc? I am confused as to whether the new parts are welded to the frame, or engine, or are bolted between engine and frame?? The way the washer is shown above looks how they are fitted on a standard engine.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Aug 23, 2020 18:53:14 GMT 1
Can you put up pics to show how the new mounts are fitted and where they fit etc? I am confused as to whether the new parts are welded to the frame, or engine, or are bolted between engine and frame?? The way the washer is shown above looks how they are fitted on a standard engine. Hi Rob the fitting fits in loose between the chassis rail and the steel/rubber washer. Here is a picture for you.   |
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Post by veg on Aug 23, 2020 20:47:21 GMT 1
Radiator pics please 😁👍
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Post by 4l04ever on Aug 24, 2020 9:25:53 GMT 1
Can you put up pics to show how the new mounts are fitted and where they fit etc? I am confused as to whether the new parts are welded to the frame, or engine, or are bolted between engine and frame?? The way the washer is shown above looks how they are fitted on a standard engine. Hi Rob the fitting fits in loose between the chassis rail and the steel/rubber washer. Here is a picture for you. Does it matter which way round the damper washer is fitted, as I think they have the plastic towards the engine normally? |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Aug 24, 2020 20:51:15 GMT 1
Ok i will make some. Pictures of me destroying a perfectly good radiator. |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Aug 24, 2020 20:53:46 GMT 1
Hi Rob the fitting fits in loose between the chassis rail and the steel/rubber washer. Here is a picture for you. Does it matter which way round the damper washer is fitted, as I think they have the plastic towards the engine normally? Hi rob i'm not sure what happens if you mount them wrong but these are mounted with the rubber side touching the engine block |
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Post by JonW on Aug 25, 2020 1:18:38 GMT 1
>Does it matter which way round the damper washer is fitted, as I think they have the plastic towards the engine normally?
They are sort of 'stepped' as the rubber side has a larger hole than the steel plate its bonded to so the rubber goes to the engine as the collar sticks out and goes inside this gap in the rubber so the plate is trapped between the collar and the frame. I believe its designed so that the engine vibrations are checked by the rubber in all planes; on the collar up and down as its rubber mounted around the collar where it goes in the engine and also side to side where the rubber washer is on one end. Only one mount end is fitted with a rubber washer as thats where the twisting forces are felt during acceleration, ie FL/RR. So its also a mini cush drive for the engine lol.
I have seen people fit 4 instead of 2 of these. I think that is fine, there isnt much movement in them and there is room to add two more with no real problem. I guess it might dampen the vibes a (tiny I would think?) bit more but also make the engine less solidy held as there is double the movement etc.
Looks like youve got the banshee version there ToBy, much better than the bike version I think. Anyway, nice work as ever.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 25, 2020 7:59:11 GMT 1
The rubber goes to the engine side
If you look at the down arrow and fit as per the manual on the rear right and the front left the larger section of the washer is behind the standard engine plate and not seen
They fill the gap to stop the engine twisting on the rubbers with tension from the chain
Think Yam said fit 4 on not tie bar bikes back in the day
Fit the front right and and rear left with the down arrow facing up and of course rubber to the alloy engine case
Steve
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Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 1, 2020 23:03:24 GMT 1
I'm kind off dragging my feet a bit with the radiator but here is a picture especially for Veg   One thing i have noticed is a lot of aftermarket radiators are painted with silver paint even though they are aluminium. Can anyone tell my why? doe s the heat transfer better with the matt paint instead of shiny aluminium? |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Sept 2, 2020 8:40:08 GMT 1
It will be painted for one of a few reasons
Corrosion resistance
The alloy finish is crap
To cover up discoloration and crap welding 😁
Steve
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Post by flames on Sept 2, 2020 13:16:30 GMT 1
I would imagine some of the more dubious sort are painted in an attempt to make them water tight long enough for good feedback.😁
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Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 2, 2020 20:23:25 GMT 1
With those sort of answers I better repaint Frankenstein when its finished   |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 3, 2020 10:29:31 GMT 1
Another picture of Frankensteins work   |
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Post by oldbritguy on Sept 3, 2020 11:20:37 GMT 1
I somehow don't think a bit of silver aluminium paint will stop that one from leaking lol I think you need to back off in the gym a bit. Looks like you are over doing it with the screwdrivers tightening up your jubilee clips on the rad hoses. John |
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Post by flames on Sept 3, 2020 17:51:40 GMT 1
That probably needs some silver gaffa tape as well.🤗
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Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 3, 2020 22:34:17 GMT 1
"This week i ave mostly been thinking radiators" The radiator is has now been "fixed up" with gaffer tape and silver paint with all brackets in place. I just have to make the cooling water entry and exit. It looks a bit of a mess with all the welding but id rather have it looking like this than smooth all the welds out only to have one fail due to it being too thin. The two holes on the right hand side have not been filled, as i might weld a plug in the top hole for a deaeration pipe or a sensor. The bottom hole might be part of the opening for the cooling water exit.  I have heard about these 443 engines failing due to improper cooling. For this reason i have spent today playing around trying to find a solution for the entry and exit of the cooling water. I didnt want to weld a cooling water pipe to the radiator because it would mean i would have to stay with that cross sectional area with no option of increasing it if i want to. I thought i would make a cone and then squash it, this would give me lots of scope for adjustment. The problem with this idea is the welding on one side of the cone will be too close to the matrix which could cause more damage than good. I have decided to make a cone from two halves and weld the inside of the cone which runs next to the matrix. Below is just an example of the idea i'm thinking about.   |
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Post by donkeychomp on Sept 3, 2020 22:48:22 GMT 1
Did the beers help you arrive at your decision?
Alex
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Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 3, 2020 22:52:14 GMT 1
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Sept 4, 2020 21:50:46 GMT 1
Did the beers help you arrive at your decision? Alex and a nice beer it is too! |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 9, 2020 0:26:12 GMT 1
I have done a bit more on the radiator. Due to trying to squeezing in a wide radiator into the available space the cooling water entry was going to be the most tricky to make. As i am winging it i thought this one should be done first. Heres a few pictures. 
Ideally i wanted to make a cone from one piece of sheet ally, but it would mean welding next to the matrix a risk i didn't want to take. It was decided to make a two piece cone and weld on the inside of the cone to avoid the matrix.   
The way that this inlet cuts across the radiator makes me wonder how much resistance it will cause to the air flow through the radiator in this region. I don't know much about aerodynamics so any constructive criticism is much appreciated. 
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Post by JonW on Sept 9, 2020 1:04:13 GMT 1
Interesting stuff!
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