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Post by mak595 on Nov 27, 2018 23:02:33 GMT 1
Well, I checked out the frame number (29L 084XXX) on rd350.net and it matches a jap market rz250 1984 1AR so I assume that was what it started as...
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 28, 2018 9:29:29 GMT 1
The LC2 front ends are all the same, its only when you get to 85 and the F/N that it changes. if you tacho is blanked off with a plug, thats a later thing and started in 85, but I dont think even in Japan that was on a 29L engine, thats LC2, not 85-on. The IAR frame is an F or an N, as i said yours looks not have the brackets, but they could have been cut off, so I suggested it was an N. The 1985 350 bikes have LC2 pipes with a cut out... have a good read round the rd350lc.net website and here and also read by info on 'why the F1' on my site. you will know a bit more about the 85 models then. You should be able to identify what you have got after another week of good reading I'd think, and you'll be glad you did. Anyway, the engine and frame I dont think originated together, nor did the forks come with the bike when new. As I said, its a bitsa. But that means you can build what you like. Enjoy! The brackets not being there is a red herring Jap frames are different Euro/UK bikes whether naked or faired f1or2/n1or2 all had the fairing brackets on the naked bike Jap bikes like this despite being an 84 were available naked and had no brackets The 86 3HM1 I just bought will have a 29l engine but tacho blanked and even although it's the later bodywork frame it has no fairing brackets Strange how our n1/2 had the frame with brackets when a bracketless frame was available Probably goes with the theory that the n1/f1 was a hastily prepared stop gap model Steve
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Post by mak595 on Nov 28, 2018 11:20:05 GMT 1
Where do the electric tacho bikes take the signal from?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 28, 2018 11:21:54 GMT 1
Where do the electric tacho bikes take the signal from? Black/yellow wire that goes from the cdi to the pv controller. It has to be a ypvs tacho as it's a signal, not a pulse. Steve
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Post by mak595 on Nov 28, 2018 11:44:24 GMT 1
Where do the electric tacho bikes take the signal from? Black/yellow wire that goes from the cdi to the pv controller. It has to be a ypvs tacho as it's a signal, not a pulse. Steve Cheers Steve, I need to work out what clocks in going to use, if I stick with the kidney clocks, I assume I would have to retro for a tacho unit in the engine or i source some N clocks. I've got a 31k stator and a 29k-50 cdi coming and a RZ250 loom from Japan so will see what I can cobble together !!
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 28, 2018 12:48:26 GMT 1
Yes for the kidney clock you will need to fit the drive which means splitting the crank cases but I'd expect you'll do that anyway
Always a good idea to fit it
When I built my hybrid I left them out as although it was an lc2 I was using n clocks as it was naked
Now may be looking at fitting the bikini fairing and don't have the standard kidney clock option
I do however have kidney clocks with a ypvs elec tacho in them so not out of options yet
I do however like the idea of fitting koso gauges inside kidney covers but got way too much to do first
Steve
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Post by mak595 on Nov 28, 2018 18:59:32 GMT 1
Yes for the kidney clock you will need to fit the drive which means splitting the crank cases but I'd expect you'll do that anyway Always a good idea to fit it When I built my hybrid I left them out as although it was an lc2 I was using n clocks as it was naked Now may be looking at fitting the bikini fairing and don't have the standard kidney clock option I do however have kidney clocks with a ypvs elec tacho in them so not out of options yet I do however like the idea of fitting koso gauges inside kidney covers but got way too much to do first Steve Engines getting stripped anyway so might look into what I need to retro fit the take off Edit - think I'm going to look for a set of N clocks instead...
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Post by mak595 on Nov 29, 2018 16:29:58 GMT 1
well. heated up the barrels in my trusty mini oven and got all the epoxy off, barrels look ok so i just need to build up the drains with some weld then i can drill and re-tap. P1020752 by mark hynes, on Flickr P1020753 by mark hynes, on Flickr The PV's a a bit muldered at the end's so i'll see if i can do anything with them, the bushes aren't to bad, a few marks on the outer lip but a quick skim in the lathe should clean them up, obviously need new seals P1020754 by mark hynes, on Flickr The side casing was a right b*****d to get off, must have used silicon but eventually i got the bugger off, clutch basket looks ok, there's loads of threads broken on the casing so i'll get them welded up and re-tap as well P1020755 by mark hynes, on Flickr P1020756 by mark hynes, on Flickr P1020757 by mark hynes, on Flickr The crank feels smooth but 1 big end has play so i'll probably take the crank to Grampian for them to asses it Also dropped the frame and swing arm down to a local engineering firm for blasting so i can then do the repair to the tie bar mount and a couple of threads need re-tapping as well...spot the recurring theme !!!! they also do powder coating, had loads of bits done for my katana, they do a good job at reasonable prices
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Post by mak595 on Nov 29, 2018 16:34:42 GMT 1
For now the bike has "disappeared" so ive got some room to finish the Kat's bodywork off.... P1020758 by mark hynes, on Flickr
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Post by oldbritguy on Nov 29, 2018 17:23:44 GMT 1
Fantastic progress being made there Mark with a few heart stoppers on the way. You will be sticking it all back together soon enough I'll bet Lovin' the updates as well John
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Post by panzermatt on Nov 29, 2018 18:57:08 GMT 1
trojan work there mate, love the pics. keep em coming.
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Post by mak595 on Nov 30, 2018 14:11:01 GMT 1
Picked the frame up from blasting so i can now weld up the tiebar mount and retap a couple of thread then back to them for powder coat but i cant decide whether to stay red or go for black with silver arm, leaning toward black like the original JDM bikes, depends what colour i paint the bike, i like the yellow KR bikes...... P1020760 by mark hynes, on Flickr
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 30, 2018 14:16:35 GMT 1
Looking at the frame it was definately a naked bike out the factory
You can tell by the tab for the steering lock
Naked bike the tab turns down
The lc2 style bikini model turned up
Steve
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Post by mak595 on Nov 30, 2018 15:22:58 GMT 1
Looking at the frame it was definately a naked bike out the factory You can tell by the tab for the steering lock Naked bike the tab turns down The lc2 style bikini model turned up Steve So it would make sense that the bike is a 1984 1AR same as the UK N model
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Post by mak595 on Dec 7, 2018 22:48:56 GMT 1
Not done much on LC as I'm cracking on to get my Kat finished, on with painting panels, lad comes home from school and asks if I've started a meths lab.. Breaking bad has a lot to answer for [/url] FB_IMG_1544218340813 by mark hynes, on Flickr
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Post by Yogi on Dec 7, 2018 22:59:43 GMT 1
Not done much on LC as I'm cracking on to get my Kat finished, on with painting panels, lad comes home from school and asks if I've started a meths lab.. Breaking bad has a lot to answer for [/url] FB_IMG_1544218340813 by mark hynes, on Flickr[/quote] Should change your name to Heisenberg
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Post by mak595 on Dec 8, 2018 7:01:12 GMT 1
I'm the one who knocks
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Post by mak595 on Jan 3, 2019 13:31:04 GMT 1
No real progress on the RZ except gathering a few bits and pieces but my katana is almost done now so I can soon start in ernest... FB_IMG_1546286500717 by mark hynes, on Flickr
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Post by mak595 on Jan 26, 2019 19:22:36 GMT 1
Well, some YZF 125R running gear came up local at a good price so it looks like im doing a hybrid now
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Post by mak595 on Feb 8, 2019 19:18:39 GMT 1
Started messing about with the YZF running gear, amazed that the front end bolted straight on using new PV taper head bearings, even the lock stops look ok, using a MT top yoke so i can use fatbars
Obviously the rear isn't as straight forward and i could do with a bit of advice, the arm bolts in, i will need to make up spacers etc and workout which axle bolt i'll use.
The shock bolts up at the top ok and ive mocked up the arm at a downwards angle to account for sag, the lower mount just looks like it needs an extention plate going backward ( or i'll fab a whole new gusset) but it looks like if i go parallel to the old holes i should be somewhere near...
What to you experts think?
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Post by mak595 on Apr 23, 2019 16:36:21 GMT 1
Got the lower plates fabbed up so it's standing on its new wheels for the first time P1020790 P1020789 Won a set of GSXR K1 rearsets on fleabay so next job is to get then fitting to the frame once they arrive. Also bought the engine in bits that was on the classified so i've now got 350 barrels, carbs etc for when i eventually get round to rebuilding the motor. Happy Days
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Post by 17again on Apr 24, 2019 18:49:21 GMT 1
well done on the YZF running gear. looks like its gonna be a nice hybrid : )
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Post by mak595 on Jun 6, 2019 5:51:16 GMT 1
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Post by veg on Jun 6, 2019 21:31:29 GMT 1
So you had some crap with the original but it was repaid with the good luck Karma for the new one, well done.
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Post by mak595 on Jun 6, 2019 23:30:44 GMT 1
So you had some crap with the original but it was repaid with the good luck Karma for the new one, well done. Yep, Karma i suppose, the RZ is a PoS but if i didnt buy it, i would have never looked at that frame and stumbled on the 31k
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Post by Norbo on Jun 19, 2019 9:35:15 GMT 1
holly crap thats a rough start to a project
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Post by mak595 on Jun 19, 2019 20:00:13 GMT 1
holly crap thats a rough start to a project Certainly was, dont think i'll be using much !
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Post by mak595 on Dec 19, 2019 18:39:21 GMT 1
Had a spare day a few weeks ago so got the frame out and did some welding on it and gave it a lick of paint dunno what i'm going to do with the bike yet, either finish building it or might just build it up into a rolling chassis using the YZF parts and sell it on as a project Foot plates finished for the R1 footpegs P1020946 Tiebar mount that was rotten, cut out and a new plate welded in P1020948 The rear tabs for the mudguard were missing so fabbed some up and welded on P1020945Ready for some running gear...... P1020944
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Post by mak595 on Dec 25, 2019 17:14:31 GMT 1
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Post by mak595 on Apr 22, 2020 20:04:18 GMT 1
With the lockdown in place I thought I've have a look at the motor, I've decided to keep the 250 barrels as their the 51L boysen port model. DK's have had a 51L head advertised for ages that I kept looking at, finally made a offer and got it for 70. Waiting for it to arrive now. Cleaned up the crankcase, helicoiled a few threads and built up a couple with jbweld. I'll Give it a coat of engine enamel probably tomorrow. The gearbox gears were a bit rusty with being out of oil for God knows how long but I had a good spare set kicking about, the crank feels ok except 1 bigend has play so it needs a rebuild. On to the barrels, the drain plugs were snapped off and generally looking a bit grim so I drilled em out and helicoiled and built up with Jbweld. I also JB'ed a washer onto the face so hopefully the bolt and copper washer will have a flat surface to seal onto. I'll give them a lick of paint when I do cases...
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