Marcel - Amazon were listing a polishing machine which may be a better bet than modding a bench grinder - especially if you only want it for polishing. Some bench grinders have a lowish wattage, and not really up to serious polishing jobs. The Higher the wattage the better. My grinder is approx. 550w I think and struggles a bit on deep scratches, and if I wanted to mirror polish parts I think I would be there a long time !! It's good enough for most of the parts I do but I will invest in a dedicated machine one day, just to make it a bit easier
Never tried it so cant comment. I think you would want a bench mounted machine to get the best finish to be honest, and the way the mops are designed means a hand held tool probably wont suit what you want. You can buy orbital polishers but they tend to be for car paintwork and not suitable for what we need.
Been bolting a few more parts on. For some reason, a previous owner had removed the front bracket that the coil mounted to They were good enough to drill and tap a hole a bit further forward, so having pinched the Banshee coils that were destined for the café racer bike, I made a small bracket so I could mount the coils properly;
I've resisted the temptation to recess the rear light at the moment, but I did cut down the number plate bracket a bit more - it had already been cut - to fit my 7x5 number plate that arrived yesterday. This bike originally came with the yellow bodywork, but I am using the 2 stripe red set that was spare;
Busy week, so haven't done loads, but did refurb the rad. It was in pretty good nic anyway, but I gave it a good wash inside and out after giving the paint a key with some fine sanding blocks. Resprayed it in gloss black, found some better rad guard spacers, polished up the rad guard, and fitted the 2 polished side plates that came in a box of spares;
Thanks Knocked up a horn bracket this morning. Annoyingly, I couldn't find the card template for the bracket I made before, so had to take the dimensions from a drawing, and transfer that to a new template. Drew round it on some ally sheet I had and cut it out with my jigsaw/metal blade. Popped into my engineering guy this afternoon and he put the 23 degree bend into it for me whilst I was there chatting May need to tweek it slightly once I get some horns. I wanted it to look a bit like an Lc bracket, but it had to work with the Fzr lower yoke;
Today, I had some time (missus and daughter off doing a 12 mile run !! ) so dining room table got requisitioned for my Lc clocks rebuild ! I thought the clocks on this bike looked pretty good, apart from a faded red line on the tacho and a missing trip knob. I was going to buy 2 new dials, but the speedo dial was good, and I had a spare tacho, albeit without a temp gauge fitted ?? So, a clock strip to clean, and swap the tacho dial over - shouldn't take long
Ouch ! Looks like I will be using more of the spare tacho than I thought. Anyway, here is the strip down process. Using a thin bladed screwdriver, prise back the crimped edge of the bezel - really small increments as it has a springy feel to it;
Now is a good time to fold back the crimped part on the rim as it will be easier to fit back on afterwards For the speedo and tacho, the needles are under tension, and if you plan on removing them, you need to ease, carefully, the needle over it's stop, and then mark a line as to where it settles. This will mean that when you refit the needle, you put it back in the right place before easing it back over the stop. You can see 2 pencil lines - top one is where needle sits on the stop, and bottom is where it settles;
The pics I'm adding are of both tachos being stripped together, so the pics show both. Getting the needles off is tricky - they are fragile. I gently lever mine with a fork as you can get 2 prongs underneath it, but be mindfull they will ping off across the room. Placing them in a plastic bag as you do it means it cant fly off and snap on landing ! Then the 2 small screws on the face, and you can remove the dial;
This had the advantage of not having to remove the needle from the tacho - I just undid the screws on the back of the case, removed the whole assembly, fitted the temp mechanism, and bolted it back in, after cleaning the dials with cotton buds and water - pretty grubby they were too. Glass gets a good clean in and out, then reassemble. To crimp the bezel back on, I use some pliers with tape on one face, to protect the bezel, and then "crimp" the edge back to the casing;
Obviously been apart before, and you can see where the tape was covering the trip knob hole. There should be a rubber grommet in there too. So, once apart, I cleaned the glass but fitted it back into the now spare bezel from the tacho which was in better condition. Also found a grommet from an Autojumble - I always buy some as spares, that fitted nicely;
Forgot to add, check all your bulbs are ok if they are untested whilst the cases are apart. I also gave the cases a polish up with some liquid black polish - easier to do without the clocks fitted. Hope that helps anyone looking to overhaul their speedo and tacho. Just take your time and it's a fairly easy job.
Cheers for the speedo. Cant seem to get the trip knob out though so may have to dismantle it so I can grip the trip knob shaft with some long nose pliers. It may be easier just to buy one off Norbo as it seems a shame to pull that speedo apart. Do you know what bike it's off ? And don't worry about the template - I have a drawing so can knock one up anytime
Thanks mate. It was worth the effort as they look a lot better now. I just need to get a trip knob from Norbo to finish them. Alex kindly gave me a kwak speedo but the trip knob wont fit unfortunately. No problem as I can fit a Yam one easily enough. Just waiting on the swingarm now and then I can move the rolling chassis up to the garage for easier winter fettling. Next job is to clean and fit the loom
Tis a thing of beauty !! This afternoon I got down the shed to fit it. I'm keen to move the bike from the shed up to the garage for the winter as it will be much easier to work on, so this arrived at a good time. Fitted in really easily, along with the YSS shock I bought from Mutts a few weeks back;
New rear tyre already fitted, and the wheel has been powdercoated by a previous owner and then not used by the look of it - same as the front. I want to get a nicer torque arm from Norbo and find a nicer bolt for the torque arm to bolt at the front of the swingarm. May need to add some preload to the shock too. Loom is all clean and I've re taped it so that's ready to go on and I need a couple of bits for the airbox then that can be fitted too. Then it's engine rebuild time, and as before, I will list part numbers and do as many pics as possible as I go
Yea, it was a nasty surprise as I thought they were ok. A real stroke of luck that the spare I had was the tacho, which I needed Swingarm looks awesome. I've got a couple of bits to finish the rolling chassis, but basically it's done. I'm building it as a daily rider so trying not to be too fussy with it but I cant help improving all the little bits that look a little tired. I'm now thinking of changing the seat for a Gully copy, but at £275 it's not a cheap option ! I'm going to start clearing the bench in the garage for the engine rebuild. That's got to be my next, main job.
Cheers mate Fitted the rear brake switch and found the correct bolt for the front torque arm mount. Also fitted the brake rod. Bike moved from shed to garage now for the winter ( a lot warmer in the garage !!)