Hi Dusty it looks like you have got some nice parts there. Porting work to fit the Larger reeds looks very well done. The single reed petal is also something that Mr Farnham has done in the past, though i have never seen that colour material before. It could be reed material developed by Tony Doukas, he made two different spec reed material both coloured differently and sold by EBC. If your curious drop him an email he is very friendly.
I would remove the bit of stud bar in the top casing and replace it with an 8,8 stud if you have problems getting one pm me. Also this is just personal preference i think the squish band on the cylinder head looks too wide.
Thanks guys Toby - I did think I would put a proper stud in the top case. I've never built anything other than a standard engine, so I want to know the top end is "right" before I fit it. Bottom end will be straightforward enough but I will get things like squish checked out before I bolt it all in. Anyone else have a 375 ? Be good to swap notes on the specs.
Hi Yea, liner looks quite thin. Is that standard on a 375 ? Toby, I will have to go and look at the head to check, but on the barrels the passages at the front and the back have been reworked. Don't remember my last Lc being like that.
This bike has laid dormant since I bought it, but I have been collecting a few parts for it. The Tz/pv project bike has given me some engineering hurdles to overcome, so this bike is about being a relatively straightforward rebuild in comparison ! It will run parallel to the other bike so I will divide my time between the 2 !! I had the shift bush mod done by my local engineering guys;
Worth doing whilst the engine was apart. The 375 top end is an unknown for me. I took it to Brands back in July and asked Mutts to take a look at it. He thought it well done but didn't recognise who may have done it. It may be something you can bolt on and it's brilliant, or maybe needs a lot of setting up - I don't know, so with that in mind, I decided to buy some used 350 barrels that are on standard sized bores;
One does have a nic just below a transfer port, so will get that addressed before I get them vapour blasted. I have a NOS 350 head that can be used with them and those twin choke Mikunis that came with the bike, as long as they line up ok with the airbox. I think I will leave the Fzr front end on. It's been well modded to fit, the wheels are newly powdercoated and the brakes are awesome, if lacking feel. The Rgv usd front end I bought will sit in a corner for a rainy day !! I may do something with the front mudguard though - doesn't quite sit right for me. The Lc rear wheel has been fitted with an undersized rear tyre - a 100 instead of a 110 - don't know why ? I'm thinking of going with an Avon 120 rear - I know, oversize, but they look so skinny otherwise !! Frame has already been powdercoated nicely, I have a decent bodykit in white/2 stripe red, and I've just bought a pair of Mutts pipes in stainless with 6 inch cans He is also supplying a Yss shock for it. All the black plastics are good but will get a going over, and there is a new replica rear muddie that I may fit - although I do prefer cut, shorty guards ! So, basically a standardish 350 Lc. Not like me at all !!
Ps. I got the logbook back in my name a few weeks back, so that was good news. The bike is on a "W" reg, so will get a plate made up for her.
Another cracking build in the making Dusty by the look of things Ever thought of starting your own business up? I am positive you you would be inundated with work Once again looking forward to your progress on this one John
The frame has been nicely powdercoated, so why someone has done that beats me ? I popped down to my engineering fella yesterday and got a steel offcut. I've started making a stop to go on the frame. I will take him the rolling chassis and get him to weld it on. I need to dress back the powdercoat finish but will do it as neatly as I can, and then do a paint touch up afterwards. There is a lot of detail in getting the Lc wheels to fit. An alloy spacer each side between the wheel and the discs;
I thought it looked narrow, but I am used to 150's in my hybrids so thought nothing of it. Had a closer look and the rear is a 100 section as opposed to a 110 as standard ? Again, why ? That will get changed.
Once the lock stop is done I will strip the rest down and start to build back up. The forks will get cleaned up first. I would love a box section arm for it too. I've ordered a Yss shock from Mutts, and a set of his pipes in stainless I hope to get a rolling chassis up before the winter sets in. Watch this space !!
I had to take part of the headstock back to bare metal so they could get a good surface to TIG weld to. Now that's all done, I will clean it all up and get some black gloss back onto the headstock. Heaven knows why a previous owner didn't do it before powdercoating the frame - took me half an hour to make the piece of steel, and the welder about a minute to weld it on, and a tenner to do it !! Now that is done, I can strip the rest of the rolling chassis down to check, clean and start building back up. Getting back to a rolling chassis should be relatively quick. Frame and wheels are newly powdecoated so no job to do there, so my first job will be to clean up the forks. I'm going to get the rear tyre sorted this week, and put in an order to Norbo for some bits and bobs. I spoke to Tamsyn at Metmachex today, and have ordered a box section arm with the slotted chain adjusters That's a couple of weeks away at the mo, so will try and have everything ready by the time it arrives to bolt it in and get it up on it's wheels. This was the last pic I took before I came in;
Hi Mark Yogi is top Sausage, without a doubt. I can never take that title from him !! I agree regards the headlight brackets - I prefer the Triumph ones I bought for the Tz build. I plan on changing them. A lot of work has gone into the front end conversion, and I think the handlebar risers look "factory", as they are so well done. It does use a standard Lc speedo drive, with a modded spindle;
I find it strange that someone goes to all that effort and then doesn't sort the lock stop on the frame before powdercoating ? Anyway, that's sorted now. I may even build the Lc engine up first, instead of the Pv for the other bike. All the parts I bought from Fowlers can be used in the Lc bottom end, and there will come a point when I have to progress one bike more than the other. This one could certainly be finished more quickly.
Today I started to build this bike back up. I had the yokes out to clean and apply new grease, and check the bearings which look fairly new so that's good. I gave the frame a coat of car polish as it was covered in dust, and I got the polishing wheel set up to do a couple of parts. The forks are pretty good, but I needed to do something with them as they were a bit rougher than what I would like. I quite like the gold finish on the lowers, and didn't fancy hours of removing it and polishing them. I opted to remove the silver paint on the bottom of the forks instead, as I felt that cleaning them up would improve the appearance of the gold parts. The paint looked tough, but was no match for that industrial paint stripper I bought;
After getting the paint off, I gave them a light rub down, and then about 10 minutes each on the polisher - just enough to give them a bit of a shine without being a pain to upkeep. Yokes and forks are now back on the bike, and I gave the handlebars a buff up too which removed a couple of blemishes. Front wheel will get a good clean tomorrow and will go back on. I think the carbon muddie looks too long behind the forks so I'm going to look at cutting that back. I also bought some black enamel paint today so will touch up the new lockstop on the frame. Also going to respray the speedo drive and wheel spacers.
Hi Marcel I think you are thinking of my other build - this bike has standard Lc clocks being bolted back on. Thanks for the link though Today, I stripped the discs off the wheel to give them a good polish. You can see the ally spacers needed to line the discs up with the calipers on the Fzr forks;
Hi Marcel! I'm not going mad with the polishing so the colour of the welds may still be visible, but I'm not worried if they are polished out. Hi Tony - yea the pipes look lovely don't they. They are the " all round performance" pipes that Dave supplies and I really look forward to the day I can bolt them on And hopefully you will have plenty to read with the winter evenings on the way !! Had some shed time this afternoon so did some small parts. I rubbed down and then scrubbed the inner mudguard, before re blacking it;
I refitted the connector holder with button head screws, and also cut a newrubber flap for the inside of the guard where the shock passes through as it had seen better days. The speedo drive and front wheel spacer have been prepped and resprayed in gloss black enamel;
Been gradually putting parts back onto the bike as I've been cleaning/repainting them. The front wheel went back in, and I cut a good few inches off the back of the carbon muddie before I refitted it. I also cut off the redundant brackets that would have mounted the muddie to Lc forks;
I cleaned the blue spots too before bolting them on. Switchgear went back on, and I changed the Ypvs clutch perch and lever that was originally fitted for a newly powdercoated Lc perch I had in a box of bits;
I didn't like the headlamp brackets that were originally on the bike, so I pinched the new Triumph brackets off the Tz bike ! I ordered a new pattern headlight from Norbo, along with a stainless side stand spring, and new side panel rubbers. I refitted the clocks temporarily to work out the headlight position, but the clocks will come off and get stripped down for new dials - the redline has faded badly and I want to give them a good clean;
That pic also shows the clutch lever I found in another box. Originally anodised black, it was a pig of a job to get it back to ally. I then polished it along with the footrest plates and a new stainless lift handle from Norbo;
I couldn't find any decent footrests in my spares - not that I could bolt straight on anyway, and then I remembered I had the ally pegs left over from a previous build. The benefit of then is newly powercoated , original brackets and polished pegs, so they could go straight on;
Not the best pic of them, but it shows the new rep rear guard that came with the bike. I've resisted the urge, so far, to shorten it as I don't like long rear guards normally, but it seems a shame to cut it. I'm going to wait until the swingarm and wheel are fitted before I decided which way to go with that. This will be the most "unhybrid" Lc I've ever rebuilt !! Likewise, I didn't cut off the pillion pegs this time ! Airbox and rear light tray are getting a refurb tomorrow - not sure whether to recess the rear light or not ? Lastly, for now, whilst I had the polishing wheel out, I gave my new pipes the lightest of passes across the mops. One done, one not;
Hi Alex My Rgv 21 forks are 41mm. I've already bought another Triumph set to replace the ones I pinched for this bike ! The first load of engine parts I bought to rebuild the Ypvs engine will now be used on the Lc engine for this bike - all parts that are interchangeable between models luckily. As long as the crank is good - need to get it checked at PJME - then I can build up a bottom end quite quickly. I'm trying to use good parts that I already have, and refurb what's there to keep costs down as much as possible. I plan for this bike to be a rider for next year - be nice to have one on the road for a change. So with that in mind, I'm trying not to be too fussy about stuff like little cracks in side panels etc. Once the swingarm is ready, I can get a complete rolling chassis up and then it's just the engine to do. Hi Mouse - I use a liquid boot polish to re black the plastic. Seems quite durable judging by other bikes I have used it on. Waterproof too. Jury is out on the muddie until I fit the swingarm and wheel - I may be swayed with keeping it !! Marcel - I use 6" mops of varying grades in a bench grinder - it's the only way to get a half decent finish without a ton of elbow grease and time to be honest. The anodised finish on alloy parts tends to be quite hard to remove. Oven cleaner has been mentioned before but I've not tried it. So I sand it off which obviously can scratch the ally surface, but the polishing mops will remove the scratches easily enough and leave a nice shine that can be improved with more effort. Be prepared for black crap everywhere though - I do mine outside with the machine mounted on a Workmate workbench.
another really interesting build Dusty , love the detailed and informative builds you do and the speed you progress at!
a small problem I have with the side stand on my hybrid is the opposite of yours as mine is almost to long and the bike stands too upright is there different sizes or was your one you took off modified? mart
Hi The one I took off had been shortened - bike lent too far over for comfort ! Hybridising the bike can alter the lean angle depending on what parts you are using. Do you have a standard stand fitted at the mo ? My orange hybrid fell off the stand as it was too upright. I modded the stop on the frame bracket so the stand settled in a more forward position when it was down - made a big difference.