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Post by morgy on Oct 14, 2019 16:42:16 GMT 1
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Post by morgy on Oct 14, 2019 16:48:02 GMT 1
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Post by morgy on Oct 24, 2019 20:14:41 GMT 1
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Post by morgy on Oct 27, 2019 9:51:29 GMT 1
Knocked up a couple of Carbon Blanking plates for the sides of the rad... Not 100% sure on them and looks like something else is needed... I need to work out the fitting mounting/spacing.. I may paint the Middle of the rad black.. IMG_4590 by mark morgan, on Flickr IMG_4589 by mark morgan, on Flickr IMG_4591 by mark morgan, on Flickr
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Post by tipfinchy on Oct 27, 2019 11:27:09 GMT 1
looks good to me , think the rad guard when fitted will make it look better still mart
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Post by morgy on Oct 27, 2019 11:51:31 GMT 1
looks good to me , think the rad guard when fitted will make it look better still mart Yes i'm on the lookout for a rad guard.. Not sure on renntech or other...
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Post by stusco on Oct 27, 2019 13:38:38 GMT 1
I like the carbon side plates could you do me a couple,mine are just a transfer
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Post by morgy on Oct 27, 2019 14:19:05 GMT 1
I like the carbon side plates could you do me a couple,mine are just a transfer I don't have any carbon plate left... But if you send me some plate and your Rad as a template i could..
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Post by stusco on Oct 27, 2019 14:29:38 GMT 1
I think I’ll try it myself thanks anyway
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Post by morgy on Oct 30, 2019 20:10:28 GMT 1
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Post by dusty350 on Oct 31, 2019 8:23:56 GMT 1
Looking really, really nice Mark Dusty
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Post by yamark on Oct 31, 2019 12:58:38 GMT 1
Absolutely awesome,
I can't wait for the finished bike
Great work
Mark
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Post by morgy on Oct 31, 2019 16:01:51 GMT 1
Thanks guys... Still a long way off i recon...
Saving up for the Paint and engine rebuild, I have been chatting to John at Floyd racing about doing my motor so depending on how good or bad it is inside will depend how crazy it's going to be.. I managed to pick up some 4L0 barrels in standard form a while back so we're able to do what we want.. ;-) Off to pick them up this weekend from my mate in dorset who has Blasted them for me and will drop the motor off next week hopefully..
I am still struggling to decide on colour scheme..
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Post by morgy on Nov 6, 2019 17:24:53 GMT 1
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Post by morgy on Nov 6, 2019 17:26:55 GMT 1
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Post by morgy on Nov 9, 2019 13:46:51 GMT 1
Complete engine was dropped off to the engine builder for some work.. Now the long wait to receive it back! hoping to have it back spring 2020. Slight change of plans but going for a nice stage 2 tune on the standard barrels hopefully for some good mid range power They will need a rebore due to some minor scoring 0.5 , Forged pistons, dowl pegged head, going for 4mm stroker crank so some machining to the cases needed, TZ reeds, Heavy duty clutch, billet Clutch basket. Hoping for circa 70-75hp
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 9, 2019 19:07:19 GMT 1
I think this is a good idea of using the 4LO engine with a +4 crank, Did you consider a +4 4LO crank instead of machining the inside of the engine cases?
This thread has just got better.
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Post by morgy on Nov 9, 2019 19:41:00 GMT 1
I think this is a good idea of using the 4LO engine with a +4 crank, Did you consider a +4 4LO crank instead of machining the inside of the engine cases? This thread has just got better. I'm only going off what the builder recommended for this build and may be the future upgrades.. I thought the only +4 crank was for the ypvs so cases need machining to fit.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 9, 2019 21:50:04 GMT 1
I think this is a good idea of using the 4LO engine with a +4 crank, Did you consider a +4 4LO crank instead of machining the inside of the engine cases? This thread has just got better. I'm only going off what the builder recommended for this build and may be the future upgrades.. I thought the only +4 crank was for the ypvs so cases need machining to fit. I looked into doing exactly the same as what your builder suggested but i changed my mind because there is not much aluminium left around the inner cylinder head studs for sealing the stud hole. I decided to make my own +4 4LO crankshaft and it was very easy and i wondered what all the fuss was about. I used original con rods with a second hand +4 YPVS crank as a donor. I then decide to make a good one with longer conrods using a new +4 YPVS crank. This turned out to be a head ache as the centre pin was fixed to one web and the conrods were wider. I have read in a thread that Mutts has made them. It might be worth enquiring to see the price of his conrod offset against the price of a +4 YPVS conrod and the machining of your cases. Either way i glad to see you using that block instead of the YPVS unit.
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Post by morgy on Nov 9, 2019 22:16:09 GMT 1
I'm only going off what the builder recommended for this build and may be the future upgrades.. I thought the only +4 crank was for the ypvs so cases need machining to fit. I looked into doing exactly the same as what your builder suggested but i changed my mind because there is not much aluminium left around the inner cylinder head studs for sealing the stud hole. I decided to make my own +4 4LO crankshaft and it was very easy and i wondered what all the fuss was about. I used original con rods with a second hand +4 YPVS crank as a donor. I then decide to make a good one with longer conrods using a new +4 YPVS crank. This turned out to be a head ache as the centre pin was fixed to one web and the conrods were wider. I have read in a thread that Mutts has made them. It might be worth enquiring to see the price of his conrod offset against the price of a +4 YPVS conrod and the machining of your cases. Either way i glad to see you using that block instead of the YPVS unit. All over my pay grade that Toby to be honest.. I did speak with dave ages ago about cranks etc but Not sure were he is with it.. How does stroking a crank etc effect the head stud my i ask? So the 4L0 big end in the conrod is narrower than the YPVS's ? Is this why the YPVS crank is factionally wider overall? If this is the case Why use a the 4L0 More power/torque would be better with bigger big ends surely for reliability.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 9, 2019 23:36:11 GMT 1
Right where do i start?
Q) How does stroking a crank etc effect the head stud my i ask?
A) The 4LO crank is wider in the middle this can be seen easily if you compare the labyrinth gland from both cranks. 2mm if i remember correctly as i did this about 2 years ago. If you imagine a centre line down the middle of your casing you would be able to see the two inside studs from the 4LO engine are further away from that center line. This means they will be closer to the edge of the casting where the inside crankshaft web sits.
Because the middle of the YPVS crank is smaller in the centre you have to machine the inner part of the casings of the 4LO block to let the YPVS crank fall into place. The inner studs of the 4LO block are close to the part that needs to be machined.
The studs sit in a counterbored hole this means the mating surface which seals around the hole or the stud is 3 mm (for example)to the end of the casing. If you machine 1 mm off both inside sides you will be left with 2 mm of mating surface before you reach this hole. This is less surface to seal which COULD lead to a leak from the crankshaft space into the space of the stud hole.
Q) So the 4L0 big end in the conrod is narrower than the YPVS's ?
A) Yes 0.5 mm i think
Q) If this is the case Why use a the 4L0 More power/torque would be better with bigger big ends surely for reliability.
A) Yes thats correct the wider conrod will be better for the extra forces created. More importantly the +4 crankshafts use longer conrods (115 mm instead of 110 mm) which helps reduce the extra side thrust created by the longer throw crankshaft. Because you have a wider center in the 4LO crank shaft you loose space for your wider YPVS conrods. I got around this by machining the inside of the webs to allow the thrust washer to sit deeper in the webs creating the space needed for the conrods. There are two sizes of thrust washer that i know of, 0.5 mm copper colour washer and 1 mm white metal copper washer.
Q) Is this why the YPVS crank is factionally wider overall?
A) i'm not sure i can't remember that part.
Hopefully Dave can comment on this as well.
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Post by morgy on Nov 10, 2019 10:55:11 GMT 1
cheers toby.. Kinda makes sense.. I guess there is always a down side, smaller bottom ends or having to machine cases with possibility of a leak under cylinder. This is why i will have to leave this all up to the professionals, I could easily rebuild a standard motor but All this modding/tuning 2 strokes is all over my head.. John lost me when we started talking about the port timing and benefits of a +4 crank Another question.... if the ConRods are further towards the centre do the pistons then have to be offset?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 10, 2019 12:34:33 GMT 1
The conrods stay in the middle. This is where the different size thrust washers come into play.
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Post by morgy on Nov 10, 2019 13:10:18 GMT 1
The conrods stay in the middle. This is where the different size thrust washers come into play. Everyday is a school day..
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Post by morgy on Nov 11, 2019 18:20:43 GMT 1
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Post by morgy on Nov 11, 2019 18:25:34 GMT 1
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Post by dusty350 on Nov 11, 2019 18:29:54 GMT 1
Looking good Mark Little tip - if you keep the oil tank and blank off the feed at the bottom, you can fill it with oil and syringe it out if you need to stop for fuel. Saves carrying bottles of oil about with you Dusty
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Post by morgy on Nov 11, 2019 18:32:24 GMT 1
Looking good Mark Little tip - if you keep the oil tank and blank off the feed at the bottom, you can fill it with oil and syringe it out if you need to stop for fuel. Saves carrying bottles of oil about with you Dusty Now that is a good Idea!!!
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Post by dusty350 on Nov 11, 2019 18:39:28 GMT 1
I've always done it on bikes that have run premix. Cant see the point of removing an oil tank and then stuffing bottles of oil in your jacket or on the bike ! A graded syringe makes a fuel stop easy peasy Dusty
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Post by oldbritguy on Nov 14, 2019 0:20:35 GMT 1
Awesome Mark. This is an amazing build and the bike is looking fantastic. You also have the nicest workshop I have seen in a long time Totally lost in the technical side of porting and stroking the motors etc but love the fabrication work. That radiator is a piece of art mate, what a job. Really looking forward to this evolving John
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