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Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 7, 2018 17:56:58 GMT 1
Are you using imperial or metric feeler gauges? The left hand reed Block is 4LO and the right hand reed block is YPVS
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Post by morgy on Jan 7, 2018 18:07:45 GMT 1
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Post by morgy on Jan 7, 2018 18:10:48 GMT 1
The gauges have both on them.. ;-) 010 imp and 254met
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 7, 2018 18:43:11 GMT 1
The gauges have both on them.. ;-) 010 imp and 254met Still confused i think but your tolerance should be 0.25mm to 0.75mm. I have been informed by several crankshaft people that you can have more than 0.75mm as max tolerance. The parts on your bike are fantastic it looks like a lot of thought has gone into it. I want to tell you some of my experiences. When i first started to get back into my LC four years ago i bought another bike for spare parts. I ended up keeping that bike as a runner. I had read a lot of people complaining about bad brakes, soft forks, this and that blah blah blah on this forum. I thought to my self my brakes feel ok, my forks feel ok, but they must be bad as every one complains. I changed everything and basically made the bike worse, an example was changing a wilbers back shock for a genuine yamaha shock (that should be pogo stick). It took me a couple of weeks of riding, changing and adjusting suspension in the middle of winter before i realised i had came back to the same standard the bike was in the beginning. I have a feeling the person who made your bike spent a lot of time and effort to get it right. You really should do what you like with it as it is yours now. I'm just trying to say don't fall into the trap i fell into Nice YPVS reeds by the way.
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Post by morgy on Jan 7, 2018 19:11:25 GMT 1
The gauges have both on them.. ;-) 010 imp and 254met Still confused i think but your tolerance should be 0.25mm to 0.75mm. I have been informed by several crankshaft people that you can have more than 0.75mm as max tolerance. The parts on your bike are fantastic it looks like a lot of thought has gone into it. I want to tell you some of my experiences. When i first started to get back into my LC four years ago i bought another bike for spare parts. I ended up keeping that bike as a runner. I had read a lot of people complaining about bad brakes, soft forks, this and that blah blah blah on this forum. I thought to my self my brakes feel ok, my forks feel ok, but they must be bad as every one complains. I changed everything and basically made the bike worse, an example was changing a wilbers back shock for a genuine yamaha shock (that should be pogo stick). It took me a couple of weeks of riding, changing and adjusting suspension in the middle of winter before i realised i had came back to the same standard the bike was in the beginning. I have a feeling the person who made your bike spent a lot of time and effort to get it right. You really should do what you like with it as it is yours now. I'm just trying to say don't fall into the trap i fell into Nice YPVS reeds by the way. I dropped the decimal.. so mine 0.254 and the other 0.381 The motor will need to be stripped down as it has a weep on the gear selector rod. Just checking everything as i go.
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 8, 2018 8:48:31 GMT 1
Hi Mark You can always send your crank to Paul at PJME. He has checked parts for me in the past and has always given a fair and honest opinion on the condition. If it is within tolerance and good to go then he will tell you. Alternatively, if the crank is on the way out he will do a great job of rebuilding it And a Metmachex arm is a lovely thing for sure. Not cheap though and extras like chain slipper, chain guard and bobbins are all extras so just bare that in mind when purchasing Dusty
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Post by morgy on Jan 8, 2018 11:55:35 GMT 1
Thanks dusty.
When i strip the motor down to do the seal fix i will send it off for sure just to be safe, I have read on a few threads about the PJME's great service. I know the Metmachex arm is not cheap... I have been umming and arrgghing since i got the bike, I was happy with the RGV swing arm at first but I keep drooling over the Met arm in all of it's shiny ness.. lol so if it's going to fit and i can get a good price for my complete set up i will order the Met Arm...
I was only going to work on the front end for the time being, get the new levers and master cylinders set up with the hydraulic clutch, run the lines and sort headlight out but i got a little bored and thought Sod it...
Thanks Mark
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Post by morgy on Jan 9, 2018 16:36:42 GMT 1
Can anyone tell me what the 200 is on the 31K piston.... Bores measured with a vernier was 65.22 Is using a 31k piston in a 4L0 cylinder ok? IMG_0514 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 9, 2018 17:26:57 GMT 1
Hi It's the piston overbore size. Yamaha supplied pistons in .25 and .50 rebore sizes, Aftermarket firms like Mitaka offered more, going up in increments of .25, so 1.25, 1.50 etc. Yours are 2.00 over so bores have seen some wear over the years. Cant remember how far you can go with Lc bores but you are pretty near the limit.
Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 9, 2018 17:32:40 GMT 1
Just did a search on the forum. 66.50 is your largest size you can go to so possibly 2 rebores left. Liners will be getting very thin by then though. After that it's either reline the barrels or source some more.
Dusty
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Post by morgy on Jan 9, 2018 19:20:28 GMT 1
Sounds like it's put the motor back together and thrash the Feck out of it and rebuild it when she blows.. ;-) or go Athena
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kevm
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 206
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Post by kevm on Jan 9, 2018 23:31:29 GMT 1
Athena job done
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 10, 2018 0:18:48 GMT 1
At +2mm you have to pay special attention to the head gasket the hole in the gasket for the piston might be on the small size and need opening up to stop the piston crown fouling it. This is one of the reasons i am trying to make a cylinder head with combustion domes and O-rings
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Post by morgy on Jan 11, 2018 19:48:08 GMT 1
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Post by dllc on Jan 11, 2018 20:01:34 GMT 1
200mm is standard gap between frame at swingarm pivot. 16mm is the standard width of spindle yours look like they have been widened to take the rgv spindle.
rgds
daire
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Post by morgy on Jan 11, 2018 20:09:34 GMT 1
200mm is standard gap between frame at swingarm pivot. 16mm is the standard width of spindle yours look like they have been widened to take the rgv spindle. rgds daire Thanks for confirming the spacing Daire, I've not measured the Spindle diameter but i am sure it has an RGV spindle.
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 11, 2018 21:30:42 GMT 1
Hi Mark Looking good mate - very trick Have you made a decision on the swingarm yet ? Dusty
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Post by morgy on Jan 11, 2018 21:41:21 GMT 1
Hi Mark Looking good mate - very trick Have you made a decision on the swingarm yet ? Dusty Yes... Eeerrrr No.. My heart says Metmachex my wallet and head say keep what i have. Allot Extra cash and allot of work to change whats already there. Plus if the spindle locating holes in the frame have been made wider thats more work making new brackets unless the Met arm takes the RGV spindle.
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 11, 2018 22:01:26 GMT 1
I know what you mean regards heart vs head. When I got my blue bike it had a Nk converted "P" arm fitted, but I had always wanted an alloy box section arm so sold the Rgv arm and saved up for the Metmachex. Really love the look of it in the bike, but it is a lot of money Dusty
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kevm
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 206
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Post by kevm on Jan 11, 2018 22:25:13 GMT 1
Looking good Mark
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Post by morgy on Jan 19, 2018 21:00:02 GMT 1
Having now sold all my Panels apart from the front muddy and most of the other higher priced parts except the Micron's and while i wait for some small parts that are on order i decided to strip the wheels back to bare metal as i wanted to change the colour completely.. Rear wheel and front wheels full stripped, all the seems have been totally smoothed out.. IMG_0613 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr Then 240'd the rough stuff 400 800 1200 Arms like PopEye final cut with 3M Trizact 6000.. Centres finished in 800 and should be good for just etch primer then Paint.. IMG_0623 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr Still not 100% happy with the finish of the Polished rims so will have to go back a few stages and start again... Forks removed and the lower parts stripped and partly sanded... Still allot of detailed sanding to do!!!! IMG_0612 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr
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Post by morgy on Jan 21, 2018 10:12:46 GMT 1
Another full day in the Garage sanding and polishing... Also my new disc's turned up with the Saturday post so had to offer them up to make sure they fitted once i was happy with the finish of the rims.. IMG_0625 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_0626 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 21, 2018 10:51:07 GMT 1
I love Polished rims. Your doing a great job, This is going to be very special when it's finished.
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Post by Mr Kipling on Jan 21, 2018 10:52:13 GMT 1
Like what I see , keep up the great work..
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 21, 2018 12:02:50 GMT 1
Looking good Mark There is a lot of work in those polished rims, and the spokes look so much better without the cast wording that just seems to trap all the dirt ! Dusty
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Post by morgy on Jan 21, 2018 18:06:04 GMT 1
Thanks guys... Yes allot of work 2-3 days of sanding and rubbing down.. Most of it can't even be seen now it's all back together... Front and rear wheels now fitted now the lower part of the forks have been Roughly polished.. IMG_0631 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_0632 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr
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Post by loudpipes on Jan 21, 2018 18:49:13 GMT 1
Looking good mate. i would flip the headlight bracket round so it pointed upwards tho.
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Post by morgy on Jan 21, 2018 20:25:35 GMT 1
Looking good mate. i would flip the headlight bracket round so it pointed upwards tho. Man, I've had the brackets pointing up, Down, the clocks on top of the mounts and below and a mix of all.. If i have the brackets point up then the clamps are very low down on the forks to clear the clocks and look odd. This photo is clock bracket fitted under the top Yoke and Bracket pointing down. I would have like the clamps to be higher.. IMG_0603 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr Checking photos online Pointing 'down' is meant to be how they go... These are Highsider Headlamp Brackets
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Post by loudpipes on Jan 21, 2018 20:47:42 GMT 1
I know what you mean morgy, but ive built a lot of bikes and this just looks wrong that way to me. each to there own tho. Still like the way you are heading with this hybrid mate.
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Post by Mr Kipling on Jan 22, 2018 17:37:32 GMT 1
Got yourself some impressive looking parts up front mind if I ask who done the yokes ???
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