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Post by morgy on Dec 14, 2017 18:56:46 GMT 1
Well after what seemed a ages looking for a project bike I managed to get my hands on a Matching numbers RD250 Hybrid fitted with 350 top end and RGV front and rear ends.. I have managed to track down one of the Previous owners who turned CAT***X into the hybrid around 2010-11 My RD350 LC by mark.morgan07, on Flickr According to the Doc's he sold it in 2016 to the last owner who tried to put his stamp on the bike but ran out of "time" to finish her off... When i got the bike she looked like this... IMG_0056 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_0059 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_0080 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr The Original Tank had been stripped and poorly stored and is now a little worse for where but the bike came with a newly painted set of panels in need of some work to finish off.. IMG_0130 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr The bike was bought as a non runner, Risky! but with some minor work with the electrics, Alarm, plumbing in a remote tank and freeing of the floats that had become stuck open she fired after a few kicks... So far the Microns have been removed, Tarozzi rear sets have been removed and i've fitted an original set of pegs that came with the bike, The white clock dials have been removed and replaced with a new set of dials, IMG_0305 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr Bars have now been secured, throttle, Brake and clutch levers have been fitted along with the tokico 6 pot callipers that came in the parts box so i should now be able to measure up for the new Brake lines .. I do plan to change the levers but as yet I have not made my mind up what ones... IMG_0306 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_0308 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr
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Post by jakethepeg007 on Dec 14, 2017 19:05:21 GMT 1
Keep up the good work
Won’t be long at your pace and you’ll be ready for rolling soon👍
Cheers
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Post by dusty350 on Dec 14, 2017 19:52:22 GMT 1
Wow, you're not hanging around Mark !! Dials look good -well worth the effort. Lot of potential for a stunning hybrid for sure. Hope you are enjoying the tinkering - all part of owning them Dusty
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Post by morgy on Dec 14, 2017 20:18:38 GMT 1
Thanks.. I always enjoy a nice project... but i do get stumped when looking for parts coming from Car not a bike background knowing what goes with what is going to take time.... I think i am going to keep the 6 pots... I've had the 6's and 4's on and off and I do prefer the look of the 6 pots and as she will be used sparingly during the summer only and with my riding skills she will be more about looks than a racer... ;-) Job list... Sort out some yokes!!! I really like Clean lines and would like to find a set of Yoke that are in a Raw or polished finish have the securing bolts around the back and 'hidden' and have to have fixings for the standard RD clock mount as i want to keep the standard look.. Any ideas??? Get some rear sets... Fit headlight... Either standard 350lc headlight (in the parts box) or go twin headlights Sort out the tail light, tail tidy etc Figure out if i am going to remove all the Hard work that was done By Gary and fit a metmachex swing arm IMG_0186 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr
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Post by dusty350 on Dec 14, 2017 20:29:46 GMT 1
Hi mate Spondon 440 on this forum makes some lovely billet yokes. He had some in the For Sale section if you want pics of them. Nk Racing also do yokes - I have an Nk top yoke on my Lc hybrid, and clocks bolt straight on; 20170916_151437 by David Miller, on Flickr Nk do some really nice rearsets too. Metmachex arm shouldn't be a problem as long as the top mount for the Lc shock has been left in place on the frame. It won't foul the bracket that you 've pictured, so just remove what you've got and fit the Met arm. If you fit twin lights just remember you will need to be able to hide the wiring somewhere ! Dusty
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kevm
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 206
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Post by kevm on Dec 14, 2017 21:07:23 GMT 1
Nice work Mark look forward to reading the updates and photos.
Dusty that top yoke is porn!!
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Post by morgy on Dec 15, 2017 18:13:30 GMT 1
Managed to get two hours in the Garage late this afternoon while the Misses went out... Tail tidy fitted, rear light recessed in slightly.. IMG_0326 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_0324 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr Just need to figure out if i am going to cut down the rear muddy and if so by how much... the rear crossbar needs to come off to neaten things up a bit... Removed the front ready for some new Metal!!! IMG_0327 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_0320 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr First c**k up of the Mock up.... ordered the wrong thread size Banjo bolts for the front Callipers 1.0mm instead of 1.25mm threads... DOH!!!
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Post by morgy on Dec 21, 2017 20:21:56 GMT 1
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Post by donkeychomp on Dec 21, 2017 23:51:37 GMT 1
Love the way this is going. Just a thought but wouldn't a dome allen bolt look better on the headlight mounts?
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Post by dusty350 on Dec 22, 2017 10:00:08 GMT 1
Hi Mark Looking really good mate - you are starting to make your own "mark" on it, and it's all the better for it I've got "skeleton" style headlight mounts on both of mine. They will probably suit your new top yoke. The polished alloy ones were from M&P, not sure about the black anodised set as they were on the bike when I got it but a search on ebay would probably turn some up; 20171222_084536 by David Miller, on Flickr 20171222_084514 by David Miller, on Flickr Not the best pics but you get the idea Dusty
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Post by morgy on Dec 22, 2017 10:04:24 GMT 1
Yes your right it would... I'm just mocking it up as I've not fitted the front up yet, Clocks and headlight were just in boxes so Seeing what i have and whats missing, What i like and dislike with the parts that came with the bike..
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Post by morgy on Dec 22, 2017 10:13:40 GMT 1
Cheers Dusty...
I've been having a google around trying to find ones i like, I've just got a vernier so i can now measure the forks and mounting bolts etc so i have a better idea what will work and what won't.. But will look at what M&P has..
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Post by morgy on Dec 22, 2017 19:04:47 GMT 1
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Post by spondon440 on Dec 23, 2017 20:15:33 GMT 1
They look alright mate,that mastercylinder moves because it is fastned to the brake pedal and it wouldn't be as adjustable if it wasn't like that. Make sure you have a decent grease (copperslip minimum) under those countersunk stainless bolts or they will be a b*****d to get off once corrosion starts under there. Andy. PS cool yokes, do you have a link to T2 tech, I can't find them
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Post by oldelsieboy on Dec 23, 2017 20:36:05 GMT 1
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Post by morgy on Dec 24, 2017 9:47:05 GMT 1
They look alright mate,that mastercylinder moves because it is fastned to the brake pedal and it wouldn't be as adjustable if it wasn't like that. Make sure you have a decent grease (copperslip minimum) under those countersunk stainless bolts or they will be a b*****d to get off once corrosion starts under there. Andy. PS cool yokes, do you have a link to T2 tech, I can't find them Thanks spondon... I must have sent 3-4 hours moving them from one hole to another trying to find a nice riding position and one that didn't foul the Side stand, 5 Minute job to fit i thought!! Here is the link to T12 Tech's web site t12tech.com/index.html
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Post by morgy on Dec 24, 2017 9:50:19 GMT 1
Thanks for the link...I was looking at those there £61 on M&P so allot cheaper..
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kevm
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 206
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Post by kevm on Dec 24, 2017 10:27:27 GMT 1
Like the headlight bracket will be getting one of those, good to see you dont hang about.
Do those rearsets come in black?
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Post by morgy on Dec 24, 2017 11:03:26 GMT 1
Like the headlight bracket will be getting one of those, good to see you dont hang about. Do those rearsets come in black? Yes black and Raw t12tech.com/index.html
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Post by morgy on Dec 24, 2017 17:38:04 GMT 1
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kevm
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 206
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Post by kevm on Dec 24, 2017 17:45:48 GMT 1
Cracking job
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Post by mouse on Dec 24, 2017 18:38:12 GMT 1
That is looking superb
Mouse
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Post by stusco on Dec 24, 2017 21:18:01 GMT 1
I really like the paint job
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Post by morgy on Dec 24, 2017 21:24:27 GMT 1
I really like the paint job It's how it came, Might change tho...
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tezrhc
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 293
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Post by tezrhc on Dec 24, 2017 22:47:46 GMT 1
Really like it,great colours.
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Post by morgy on Jan 7, 2018 16:29:46 GMT 1
Had a little bit of time to tinker over the Christmas period also some time to think about the direction i want to go... Some small parts are on order from Norbo and some Headlight brackets.. I would like to ask some advice on a few things just to check everything is ok.. Firstly, I have removed the Complete rear swing arm as i am 90% sure i am going to go with a metmachex Swing arm but i would like to know the internal dimensions of the frame where the swing arm spindle goes through, Mine is 200mm. Also my frame has a double skin where the spindle goes through is this standard? if not hopefully it has been plated on the outside so not changing the internal measurements... IMG_0502 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_0501 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr Secondly, I whipped out the motor to check on the condition of the barrels and the crank, It seems the Barrels have had some work done to them and have been fitted with 31K pistons, The bores are 65.22 and still have nice Honing marks inside and the Crank is 010 on one side and 015 the other... IMG_0541 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_0543 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_0542 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_0523 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr
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Post by 17again on Jan 7, 2018 16:41:20 GMT 1
think the 31k pistons are different i would be interested in the rgv swing arm if you are selling?
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Post by morgy on Jan 7, 2018 17:06:16 GMT 1
think the 31k pistons are different i would be interested in the rgv swing arm if you are selling? As long as the frame is not going to need loads of work i will put it up for sale as i would like a Metmachex swing arm, If i do sell it it will probably sold as a complete unit, Swing arm, shock, Caliper and bracket, Hel hose. The Talon Spockets and wavy rear disc will also be sold... IMG_0526 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_0525 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_0524 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_0538 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_0539 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jan 7, 2018 17:31:45 GMT 1
Hi Morgy if you want to measure your pistons and bore diameter you can get better results using micrometers instead of a vernier caliper.
If you are reffering to run out on the ends of your crank where are you measuring it and how? If you set your DTI to zero and you read 16 on your DTI you have to half the reading. To be honest i would not worry about that too much as they all seem to distort when fitted. I would suggest you measure the clearance between the big end thrust washer and the crank webb this is more important.
There has been a few discussions about the lip on the YPVS piston if your not happy remove it. Before you remove the lip clean both pistons and weigh them as i have noticed that the pistons can have the same dimensions but they can have two different weights a gram of piston is a lot to file off the skirt. Just remove the same off both pistons
It also looks like the inlet has been open up to accept YPVS reed blocks but pictures can be decieving. What type of reed blocks did you remove?
Sorry i can't answer the frame questions but i'm sure you will get plenty of advice.
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Post by morgy on Jan 7, 2018 17:54:00 GMT 1
Thanks Tobyjugs
I measured the Bottom end between the con rod and the crank washers.. Clutch side was 010 and Mag side was 015 on the feeler gauges, I don't have a set of micrometers only verniers' at the moment ...
As for the Reed blocks, TBH being new to RD's i don't know i didn't see any markings .. I can take some photos of the blocks.
Is there any advantage of using 31k pistons and Reed Blocks rather than 4L0?
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