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Post by dereckerick on Oct 30, 2017 16:21:07 GMT 1
Very nice, looks stunning Dusty Thanks Dusty One bit done, just waiting for other its to arrive and I can start the build.
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Post by tony1964 on Nov 6, 2017 17:59:02 GMT 1
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Post by tony1964 on Dec 29, 2017 16:18:10 GMT 1
Still not sure what option to take with regards to the finishing on both cases, do i get them painted with 2 pak and if so how hard wearing is it? or do i get the clutch cover powder coated (is this a good idea with regards to heat retention?) and the stator cover painted in 2 pak? Any advice welcome Tony
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Post by 0h5h1t on Dec 29, 2017 16:44:08 GMT 1
Think Chris Applebee gets a good rep I've used Grampians a couple of times. Post one day, rebuilt on day of arrival and posted back next I've just built an f2 motor using pv bushes and seals from legend motorcycles Under 70 quid for the 3 bushes, 3 seals and 3 o rings Steve Was going to try them myself too but got yam ones in the end. Interested to see how it goes with the legend ones though Steve.
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Post by dusty350 on Dec 29, 2017 17:03:50 GMT 1
Hi I used Halfords gloss black engine enamel on my Lc cylinder head; 20170603_192334 by David Miller, on Flickr I had a slight weep on the head gasket once I had it up and running and removed the head to sort it out. I planned to respray the head as I thought I would mark it when removing it but it's a tough finish. I even put it in a bowl with clean petrol and it didn't affect the finish at all - I was amazed it didn't touch the paint at all, even with a soft brush working the petrol around it. It was so good I just bolted the head back on with no extra coats of paint !! I'm sure you'll have no problems with the side cases if you get them powder coated I never have. Dusty
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Post by tony1964 on Dec 29, 2017 17:12:24 GMT 1
Thanks Dusty
Don't think the Stator cover can be powder coated though as it's plastic..
Tony
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Post by dusty350 on Dec 29, 2017 17:15:49 GMT 1
Yep, you are right regards stator cover. It's paint or an Lc cover will fit Dusty
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Post by arrow on Dec 29, 2017 20:01:53 GMT 1
Nice work Tony.
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Post by tony1964 on Dec 31, 2017 17:18:55 GMT 1
Had a couple of quotes regarding painting and powder coating, they vary from £50-£100 per casing depending on condition and finish required, is this about the going rate???
Tony
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Post by dusty350 on Dec 31, 2017 17:35:46 GMT 1
Hi I normally pay around £30 for a side casing in gloss black powdercoat.
Dusty😁
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Post by donkeychomp on Dec 31, 2017 23:59:04 GMT 1
Bike's looking good!
I use a place in Chertsey for my blasting/powder coating needs. Fantastic bunch of lads who know what they are doing, and I think very very cheap. An RD frame cost me £90 to get powder coated. Smaller items they have done for free! But a coil for example is a tenner for a blast and powder coat.
Alex
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2018 3:19:25 GMT 1
I had my side covers powdercoated. They look good , but now I wish I painted them like how they came from the factory. Thats just me.
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Post by sp885 on Jan 2, 2018 2:26:23 GMT 1
I had my side covers powdercoated. They look good , but now I wish I painted them like how they came from the factory. Thats just me. I see your engines got the 4LO prefix Ken, was it an import mate🤔 Mines 5EO
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 2, 2018 3:58:39 GMT 1
No mate . It's a 5E0. I have the cases that came with it but need some welding. At the time it was easier to get a set of cases sent over from the old dart (thanks marsbar350).
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Post by tony1964 on Jan 21, 2018 16:02:58 GMT 1
Decided to give the head a clean up today, as you can see by the photo, something has gone bang during it's life. Is there anything that can be done with it?? or is it a case of get another one?? Or dare i say it, run with it like it is :-( :-( Tony PICT2590 by Anthony Baker, on Flickr
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Post by abar121 on Jan 23, 2018 23:14:40 GMT 1
That's no problem, just get it skimmed and recut to get the worst of it out. Stan used to charge very little for this.
Any tuner should be able to do it for you, try Mick.
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Post by mellow on Jan 24, 2018 12:54:01 GMT 1
www.windridge.co.uk for powder coating. Do loads of old bike stuff. Do yourself a favour don't use Custom Whyteline in Chatham.
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Post by tony1964 on Jan 28, 2018 15:47:25 GMT 1
Starting to get all the bits together now. How many bits am i allowed left over? Not to sure what's happened to the rear engine mount, looks like a previous has taken a grinder to it PICT2593 by Anthony Baker, on Flickr
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 28, 2018 15:55:50 GMT 1
It's getting exciting now Tony Don't worry about the engine mounts. You cant see them that well when it's all bolted back in. Are you ready to start the build ? Dusty
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Post by tony1964 on Jan 28, 2018 16:34:26 GMT 1
It's getting exciting now Tony Don't worry about the engine mounts. You cant see them that well when it's all bolted back in. Are you ready to start the build ? Dusty Almost Dusty, just need to get a few more things yet. Tony
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dbgr
Drag-strip hero
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Post by dbgr on Jan 28, 2018 16:44:08 GMT 1
I cant wait..
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dbgr
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 204
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Post by dbgr on Jan 28, 2018 16:56:39 GMT 1
Please send me all the new "left over bits" Ill make them more than welcome on mine..
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Post by tony1964 on Feb 1, 2018 16:46:51 GMT 1
That's no problem, just get it skimmed and recut to get the worst of it out. Stan used to charge very little for this. Any tuner should be able to do it for you, try Mick. Thanks for that abar121, Took it over to Stan's this morning and he did it whilst i waited, charged me £40 Tony
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Post by tony1964 on Feb 15, 2018 20:15:57 GMT 1
Fitted new clutch arm bearing and seal, used a length of 6mm studding a couple of washers, gradually tightening the nut draws the bearing in place. PICT2595 by Anthony Baker, on Flickr PICT2597 by Anthony Baker, on Flickr Did the same thing replacing the gearchange shaft bush. PICT2599 by Anthony Baker, on Flickr PICT2600 by Anthony Baker, on Flickr PICT2604 by Anthony Baker, on Flickr Fitted a new gear shaft today, set it up as per Haynes manual, how critical is the equal spacing between point A and B ?? going up the gears from 1-6 the spacing was fine, going from 6-1 the spacing was a fraction different.
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Post by tony1964 on Feb 15, 2018 20:17:01 GMT 1
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 15, 2018 21:56:01 GMT 1
I think the adjustment is a little critical and i have noticed that sometimes the weight of the gear linkage can influence the position a tiny bit
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Post by tony1964 on Feb 19, 2018 17:15:36 GMT 1
Going to be fitting the Crank tomorrow, just a couple of questions. What oil should i use to lubricate the Crank bearings?? Does the oil seal on the stator side have a right way to go in, it looks the same both sides to me. Any tips welcome Regards Tony
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 19, 2018 17:51:04 GMT 1
Hi Tony It's moving on then I lube the crank with the same oil you intend to use through the pump or premix - makes sense to keep it the same. And genny side oil seal - pretty sure this seal can go either way with no issues but I'm sure when I asked the question before, guys fit it with the wording on it facing out. More important is to remember the other side - castellations face inwards towards the crank. Dry fit the crank and bolt up the cases fully to make sure the crank spins freely, before parting the cases and adding your sealant - saves a lot of mess if you find a tight spot otherwise Dusty
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Post by hudtm60 on Feb 19, 2018 18:21:43 GMT 1
Here's a question while there's some attention on this stage of the rebuild... 1) Anyone ever use bearing mount like in the pic? and/or 2) When joining the cases together do you put sealant around the outside of the bearings or do we trust the metal to metal to seal?
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 19, 2018 18:43:56 GMT 1
Hi On the crank bearings, there should be a "pip" on the bearing that locates into a cut out in the case. This will stop the bearings spinning with the crank, so in normal use, you wouldn't use a bearing lock. And for sealing the cases - just apply sealant to where the top case mating surface contacts the bottom case. No need to go over bearings or seals. Gearbox bearings on the clutch side are in an oil bath anyway, and on the other side they are behind oil seals that can be pushed in with the cases locked together. Use genuine seals and you shouldn't have any issues Dusty
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