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Post by veg on Sept 18, 2017 20:04:29 GMT 1
What or who do you use? Got some panels that need cracks repairing and some that have split that need reattaching. My painter isn't overly happy to do it. Thanks
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Post by oldelsieboy on Sept 18, 2017 20:39:15 GMT 1
What or who do you use? Got some panels that need cracks repairing and some that have split that need reattaching. My painter isn't overly happy to do it. Thanks I had some panel repairs done by forum member hailseizure but he hasn't been online since Jan last year. This is his company, JBR Pastics.OEB
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Post by veg on Sept 18, 2017 20:46:07 GMT 1
Thanks oeb you're a star
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Post by 4l04ever on Sept 18, 2017 21:24:34 GMT 1
My local painter said he now only uses Q-bond. I have just ordered a kit off ebay. It is a powder and glue combination. Look it up on youtube. :-) No special tools required.
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Post by veg on Sept 18, 2017 21:39:06 GMT 1
Thanks rob will get some and give it a go.Just ordered
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Post by zedixe13 on Sept 19, 2017 2:07:45 GMT 1
MEK , Methyl Ethyl Ketone is the active ingredient in ABS glue , you can use Testors plastic cement ( liquid form ) for model airplane , it contains MEK for a cheaper and cleaner repair . I hate when I see untidy thick goo on the back side of body panels
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Post by JonW on Sept 19, 2017 3:00:20 GMT 1
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2017 3:15:45 GMT 1
The issue with Q Bond is that it is a hard plastic, it will break under flexing and come adrift from the repair
I'll de late an interest here I work for a Wurth and I use our Replast plastic repair
If I could post photos, I would, of some of the repairs I have done using it you'd see what it is capable of
my email is hblair@wurth.com.au should you wish for some photos
Howard
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Post by JonW on Sept 19, 2017 5:36:26 GMT 1
I agree with Howard. Replast is the only other method I would use to 'welding' now Ive tried it. Its good stuff.
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Post by veg on Sept 19, 2017 7:02:48 GMT 1
Howard Jon thanks for the advice didn't realise it was non flexible I have just ordered the wurth and will also give it a try. Thanks chaps for all the advice and guidance much appreciated
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Post by JonW on Sept 19, 2017 7:18:02 GMT 1
One bit of advice with the Wurth, next time you go to use it, make sure the grey side is flowing by poking something up body of the product, ive found that over time that one sets hard and then all you get is black out the new end and a really stiff plunger. I actually broke my ebay special 'dentist repair gun' cos of this it sets up so solid and it was only a thin skin.
Oh and if youve not got a plunger you should buy one, or use the plungers out of an old araldite or similar setup. and... get a bunch of those tips as you need a new one each time you use it. I set out all the repairs I will do and move from one to the other before the product sets in the nozzle. A piece of thick plastic bag (like sofas come in) is good to lay on top of the repair to get a smoother finish too.
I think thats all my replast tips... no pun intended...
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Post by dusty350 on Sept 19, 2017 7:19:19 GMT 1
Hi mate The latest "Practical Sportsbike" mag has an article on welding plastic. Might be worth a look Dusty
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Post by bezzer on Sept 19, 2017 7:43:09 GMT 1
Veg, I've had some good results on side panels with 'SupaFix APX4', it's a powder/adhesive combination, works well and seems strong. Available through Amazon I think.
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Post by veg on Sept 19, 2017 7:48:01 GMT 1
Hi mate The latest "Practical Sportsbike" mag has an article on welding plastic. Might be worth a look Dusty I have it sat by my bog will have a look. Cheers again all
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Post by abar121 on Oct 20, 2017 16:17:44 GMT 1
Hi, Just to resurrect this one, what type of plastic and filler rods do I need for an F1 fairing panel and 4LO side panels?
Cheers.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 20, 2017 17:20:50 GMT 1
They are all and plastic
Steve
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Post by doohanno1 on Oct 20, 2017 17:41:06 GMT 1
Did somebody mention here before about melting Lego bricks and using that as a bonding agent.. I'm thinking of building a little house on the back of my side casing as it is the only way i"ll get a second property.!!
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Post by LC_BOTT on Oct 20, 2017 20:07:31 GMT 1
They are all and plastic Steve Yes I think he means ABS, I bought some 2mm ABS rods off fleabay, and use some with a soldering iron as a filler, and I've got some cut up in some MEK as mantioned to give a nice smooth paste that I paint on with a small brush, instead of using bumper filler. I did just buy some APX4 that bezzer mentioned, (got mine in Halfords for about £8) seems like superglue with a filler you mix together. seems to give quite a strong bond. I've been using it on a tail piece this week, that I'm going to modify for twin tail lights if it works out.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 20, 2017 20:31:26 GMT 1
Erm yes abs
Bloody phones
Steve
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Post by abar121 on Oct 20, 2017 20:48:17 GMT 1
Thanks chaps.
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Post by mattybeckett on Oct 20, 2017 21:01:12 GMT 1
My local painter said he now only uses Q-bond. I have just ordered a kit off ebay. It is a powder and glue combination. Look it up on youtube. :-) No special tools required Q-bond is the dogs, used it for years. Kit includes powder for metal and plastic.. worth it's weight in gold.
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Post by billyboy on Oct 20, 2017 21:37:39 GMT 1
Would add in my experience that a 2k primer is needed with glue / powder kits as other paints seem to react where the repair is made
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2017 22:45:37 GMT 1
My local painter said he now only uses Q-bond. I have just ordered a kit off ebay. It is a powder and glue combination. Look it up on youtube. :-) No special tools required Q-bond is the dogs, used it for years. Kit includes powder for metal and plastic.. worth it's weight in gold. I've never had a problem with Q bond.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 21, 2017 11:04:35 GMT 1
Q-bond is the dogs, used it for years. Kit includes powder for metal and plastic.. worth it's weight in gold. I've never had a problem with Q bond. Never had a problem with it either Yes it ain't flexible but either is a 30 year old abs panel Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 21, 2017 11:07:24 GMT 1
Would add in my experience that a 2k primer is needed with glue / powder kits as other paints seem to react where the repair is made Never had a problem but that may just be luck with whatever I've used or the painters choice At worst a bit of paint isolator helps Not that I wouldn't prefer 2 pack. Just not got the kit to use or know a painter these days that uses it Steve
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Post by philmill on Oct 21, 2017 11:32:37 GMT 1
Wow, this is really interesting, I have a few issues with some of the panels on my 500, I feel happier with the option to repair not replace.
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Post by abar121 on Oct 21, 2017 13:07:02 GMT 1
Would add in my experience that a 2k primer is needed with glue / powder kits as other paints seem to react where the repair is made Never had a problem but that may just be luck with whatever I've used or the painters choice At worst a bit of paint isolator helps Not that I wouldn't prefer 2 pack. Just not got the kit to use or know a painter these days that uses it Steve Yeah, I'm not going near two pack. What lacquer are you chaps using that is petrol resistant though? Q bond seems to be just superglue with some filling powder. You can get big pots of cyanoacrylate from model shops for pennies.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 21, 2017 13:22:43 GMT 1
I tend to do the repairs and a bit of prep then give it to my friendly local car bodyshop
If you splash petrol on it and wipe off straight away it is fine
Steve
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Post by Deleted on Oct 21, 2017 13:48:24 GMT 1
There are three main types of plastic, Flexible, Semi Rigid and Rigid, Replast is designed for all three ABS plastic is what is termed Semi Rigid, that means it still will flex if need be Q-bond is a rigid plastic when cured, if you flex the repair it will crack, the Replast won't I've used it to repair the indicator holes in my fairing as well as graft a new top leg onto it as well, on the belly pan on the RHS where the cut out is to relieve the heater hose I've remanufactured the mounting offset to attach it to the mid panel You can also drill and tap it if need be too to remake a broken lug on a bumper bar, I've even repaired a cracked plastic vacuum brake booster with the stuff just to get a vehicle home with brakes that worked, home was 1500kms on a very rough gravel track As said above Q-bond is more or less powdered plastic that you mix with super glue or cyanoacrylate, don't get me wrong it has its place, however in my experience not with semi rigid or flexible plastics And yes I do work for Wurth, so I'll declare an interest, there are however similar products out there if you look JonW, how many tips do you need?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 21, 2017 14:36:34 GMT 1
Agree with above, yes replast would be better but I'm put off by having to buy new tips as only do little bits and bobs so would be a new tip every little job
I'll have to try it one day
Steve
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