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Post by noonster on Jun 17, 2017 17:11:41 GMT 1
Ive managed to see the needle move on the gauge,by using a 12v wire from the battery into the socket unto the rev counter.
When i put my meter on the other part of the socket pin,i don't get 12v,get a bleep on the meter from a continuity test but not 12v.
All the other instruments that are connected with the brown wire work.Eg horns and brake lights.
Tried cleaning pin in socket but still no 12v.
I swapped the temp sender from another bike so i no thats ok. again the expensive items seem to work.
So its the brown wire and the lost 12V
any other tests i could do.
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Post by LC_BOTT on Jun 17, 2017 19:03:55 GMT 1
if you disconnect the wire, put the cable to the head or frame etc and turn on the ignition, I think the meter goes full scale, the sensor is just a resistor that varies with temp, and probably quite basic in it's operation and accuracy.
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Post by yamark on Jun 17, 2017 20:42:46 GMT 1
LC- BOTT is quite right. The temp sender is the green/red wire. If earthed the gauge reads to max. However, it sounds like you have lost your 12v supply, which is coloured brown. The black at the meter plug is earth, so with the ignition switch off, do a continuity test. Then with the ignition switch on connect a meter (12v range) +ve to brown, -ve to black. If it doesn't read, assuming that your black went to earth the fault must be no voltage on the brown wire. The neutral bulb shares it's power with this brown wire, so just link a brown wire between the neutral bulb (brown wire) at the instrument plug , and the brown to the temp gauge. If you now switch on and touch the sender wire to earth, the gauge should move to it's max reading.
HTH Mark  |
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Post by noonster on Jun 18, 2017 11:52:55 GMT 1
Hi Thanks for the information.
The brake wire,is also (brown) in the same circuit,so i used a bridge wire into back of socket connector.
Everything works now.
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Post by yamark on Jun 18, 2017 15:10:56 GMT 1
Hi Thanks for the information. The brake wire,is also (brown) in the same circuit,so i used a bridge wire into back of socket connector. Everything works now. Glad you got it sorted |
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Post by lukey1965 on Jun 10, 2020 18:03:58 GMT 1
Good afternoon all.
Resurrecting this thread !!
I have, until recently, had the temp gauge working, albeit with a dodgy end to the sensor. It stopped working so procurred another (4Lo0 type with intact spade connector).
Still not working. Have followed steps above but when earthing the wire off the sensor to the head, no reading on gauge (ignition on) ??
Have tested wiring in the headlight going to gauge and it is feeding 12V from there up to the gauge (4 pin block with black,blue,brown, and red/green wires).
Oh esteemed, knowledgeable gentlemen, anything else I can try please ??
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Post by JonW on Jun 11, 2020 14:04:41 GMT 1
They do die, you might need a new gauge. Try a working one and see if that works, if so its the gauge.
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Post by lukey1965 on Jun 11, 2020 14:08:17 GMT 1
They do die, you might need a new gauge. Try a working one and see if that works, if so its the gauge. Hi Jon. That is my way of thinking. Was hoping there may be other avenues to try first.... |
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Post by badger69 on Sept 11, 2021 13:33:21 GMT 1
Hi all, I've just been removing rad to test if leaking and found that there is nothing going to tempeture sensor, can anyone help me, what is the colour of wire which should be connected to it, and where does it come from to sensor, does this come straight from the back of the clocks on the temp gauge, Will I need to remove the clocks or can this be done in situe, all help thanked, stay safe everyone.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 11, 2021 15:08:11 GMT 1
Hi all, I've just been removing rad to test if leaking and found that there is nothing going to tempeture sensor, can anyone help me, what is the colour of wire which should be connected to it, and where does it come from to sensor, does this come straight from the back of the clocks on the temp gauge, Will I need to remove the clocks or can this be done in situe, all help thanked, stay safe everyone. You should see a single cable with a flat spade connector coming down from the loom from just under the tank area unless your loom has been cut. From memory its a brown/green cable in a black sleeve. |
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Post by badger69 on Sept 11, 2021 16:53:31 GMT 1
Hi all, I've just been removing rad to test if leaking and found that there is nothing going to tempeture sensor, can anyone help me, what is the colour of wire which should be connected to it, and where does it come from to sensor, does this come straight from the back of the clocks on the temp gauge, Will I need to remove the clocks or can this be done in situe, all help thanked, stay safe everyone. You should see a single cable with a flat spade connector coming down from the loom from just under the tank area unless your loom has been cut. From memory its a brown/green cable in a black sleeve. Thanks mate will have a. Look, will this come straight from the temperature gauge itself,thanks |
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 11, 2021 19:02:33 GMT 1
No from the loom. The clocks inc temp guage connect to the loom via multiconnectors inside the headlight.
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Post by badger69 on Sept 18, 2021 13:12:35 GMT 1
No from the loom. The clocks inc temp guage connect to the loom via multiconnectors inside the headlight. So from the head light it then goes to clocks then to sensor on head, just looked can't find the wire dangling anywhere, to trace this wire do I need to remove headlight, and I've disconnected the 2 cables to the clocks and removed the 2 top bolts to the clocks, how do I remove the clocks to trace wire, sorry if I sound silly but I've looked in my Haynes manual but don't understand it to much, and as for following there wireing diagram, no chance, thanks for your help, any pictures of this would be helpful, thanks again. |
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 19, 2021 7:10:11 GMT 1
Unless you unwrap the loom I'm not sure you will find the temp sensor wire in the clocks easily. Best to take tank and coil cover off and look for the spur from the loom in that area, usually close to the coil. It may have been cut. Good luck.
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Post by badger69 on Sept 19, 2021 10:07:04 GMT 1
Unless you unwrap the loom I'm not sure you will find the temp sensor wire in the clocks easily. Best to take tank and coil cover off and look for the spur from the loom in that area, usually close to the coil. It may have been cut. Good luck. Thanks for reply, also mine doesn't have a cover over the coil, should there be one, thanks. |
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 19, 2021 14:33:01 GMT 1
A coil cover was supplied when new, I think it's main purpose is to protect the connectors in that area from the weather and to give a clean appearance. It's not an essential part unless you want originality. Not cheap or easy to find although someone on here is now printing 3D copies and puts them on eBay.
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Post by badger69 on Sept 19, 2021 16:30:30 GMT 1
Thanks Shaun, I've seen them £39 not bad, I only won't to do this so i can get the bike sold, but if it's not that important I might not bother, thanks mate you are always a great help, stay safe all the best from SHAUN
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Post by badger69 on Sept 19, 2021 16:35:50 GMT 1
Unless you unwrap the loom I'm not sure you will find the temp sensor wire in the clocks easily. Best to take tank and coil cover off and look for the spur from the loom in that area, usually close to the coil. It may have been cut. Good luck. Would it be easy enough to fit new wire, I would need to no which multi block connector and which wire I need to change, I don't really won't to run it without this fixed really, I don't suppose there would be anyone in my area of staplehurst Kent tn120sa who is shi- hot at wiring is there, thanks again mate. |
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 19, 2021 22:54:54 GMT 1
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294407584074?hash=item448c0f394a:g:WxgAAOSwNh1hR2TNI don't have a picture myself but if you look at this loom on eBay you can see the temp gauge wire spur at LH side just below the 5 connectors that sit around coil on the bike. It has plastic cover for protection. The other single spur in this area is the earth wire with O connector at end but that connects to one of the coil fixings to frame.
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Post by markg64 on Oct 1, 2021 2:08:17 GMT 1
Hi all,
hope you don't mind me jumping in for some help. i'm not getting a reading from my temp gauge on my F1. The sender seems ok (tested resistance various temps) and when i ground the plug off the top i get full hot on the gauge. Could this still be a 12v issue as i haven't tested that or am i just impatient and should wait a little longer for the gauge to rise. Also are all senders the same length and would it differ as i have one of norbos cool head kits on it ??
thanks
Mark
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Post by stusco on Oct 1, 2021 7:39:22 GMT 1
Im sure if the gauge maxes out when grounded that proves the gauge is ok ,it does move slowly but still less than a minute a few seconds really
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Post by chrisg on Oct 1, 2021 7:50:48 GMT 1
Correct, when fully earthed.
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Post by JonW on Oct 5, 2021 0:38:29 GMT 1
Mark, The cool head wont stop the reading, the head and the sender heat up with the hot water etc so it should read something since the gauge obviously works when grounded. So its either the sender or the wiring. you could prove the sender isnt talking (at all or the right language) with the gauge by pulling it and putting it in a cup of your mates tea when he comes round. joggle the connectors etc. and try another sender at the same time.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 5, 2021 19:05:56 GMT 1
Hope nobody has used silicone or ptfe tape on the thread
No earth connection, no reading
Steve
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Post by graemeswift1 on Jan 25, 2022 18:49:45 GMT 1
what about the other way round mine ypvs 1wt goes straight to hot when i turn on the ignition
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 25, 2022 19:16:36 GMT 1
Pull the wire off the sender and see if it drops back
Steve
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Post by graemeswift1 on Jan 29, 2022 12:03:11 GMT 1
it does upon checking voltage ignition on there is only 6v the neutal light comes on then starts to dim in about 10sec it goes out completly are they linked
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 29, 2022 12:20:20 GMT 1
What is the battery voltage?
If that is 12v then you either have a bad connection on a plug somewhere or the fuse box needs attention
Steve
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Post by graemeswift1 on Jan 29, 2022 17:24:48 GMT 1
What is the battery voltage? If that is 12v then you either have a bad connection on a plug somewhere or the fuse box needs attention Steve 12v at battery 12v behind gauge brown wire 6v at green red wire could i have put the 3 rear connections to the gauge on the wrong terminals also my front brake switch is backwards constantly on goes out when i apply brake sorted the neutral light dimming had the red oil light bulb in the neutral bit der |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 29, 2022 17:37:29 GMT 1
Ah right, you will have a lower voltage on the green/red as that's the sensor wire
If it's going straight to red it sounds like your sender is knackered
You could try and see if one of the £7 land rover ones sorts it
Wiring wise is the gauge not marked for the wire colours? I'll see if I have a pic
Steve
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