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Post by headcoats on Apr 17, 2020 17:17:44 GMT 1
I will put the rest on then and maybe have a Poll on which set to use
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Post by headcoats on Apr 20, 2020 18:55:08 GMT 1
Sigh.......
This thread is warts and all isn't it !
Well just been doing heat cycles and one 6 mile round trip to MOT station , but last few times I have started it , there is a noise from the clutch, well that's what I think it is
Now I have fitted a new basket, all new genuine clutch plates (both sets) , new idler gear etc , but when bike is running there is noise from either the clutch side or rear of cases as in gears
But if I pull the clutch in the noise goes
It had all genuine new gearbox bearing too , so to say a little peeved off
I will have to at least pull the clutch cover off and maybe clutch basket etc but I'm stumped at this
Frustrating too as I can't go for a ride to "bed" anything in and see if it settles , but have done about a dozen heat cycle on the drive now
Noise is just at idle , unless I pull the clutch in and if I move up the drive slowly , there is no whine or anything
STUMPED !!!
rdlccrazy.proboards.com/thread/50602/fresh-noise-clutch-built-engine
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Post by stusco on Apr 20, 2020 19:23:36 GMT 1
The clutch is noisy at idle mine comes and goes and its had the lot including the rubber bushes, ive just accepted it now ,imagine the noise of a dry clutch!
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Post by headcoats on Apr 20, 2020 19:53:26 GMT 1
I forgot to say I have the wider FZ600 friction plates fitted , so no rubbers between plates , but my red LC is the same setup
Trying to describe the noise, it's a bit like when the bike is running and you pull slightly back on the kick start and it makes that kinda scraping noise, hard to describe really
Also I guess if you have the idle too low and the backlash starts making an entrance, but I have a high idle at about 1200rpm
But the bottom line is the more the engine runs, the more I hear it
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Post by wallcraft on Apr 20, 2020 20:21:43 GMT 1
Yes very odd, I had the exact same noise on mine after complete rebuild. Fired it up first time for the heat cycles and it was fine for a couple of minutes then start the scraping noise, sounded like the fly wheel scraping on the cover, but no. Fired it up again, still doing it so I listened closer and it sounded like it was coming from the depths of the box, bollocks, so turned it off. Like you pissed off 😥 Fire it up again in denial reved it, guess what? Gone. Fcuk knows what it was. Since done around 500miles and seems ok, neutral can be a bitch to find even though I've done all the shift pro and star mods so may be linked. Had the clutch and basket off and all looks fine. Will probably pull the lump out in the winter and pull it apart to get to the bottom. Sorry no help but I feel for you,hope you sort it, the only thing I could think of was maybe the box oil was taking its time to get into the close tolerance areas of the box and clutch?
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Post by headcoats on Apr 20, 2020 21:29:19 GMT 1
I took the spark plugs out and removed the dipstick and shined a light down the hole to have a look !
Turned the kickstart slowly by hand to look at the teeth on the clutch gear and feel for any notchiness but nothing was unusual
You could see the kickstart gear engaging and disengaging too
No metal in the oil
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Post by JonW on Apr 21, 2020 3:59:43 GMT 1
Idler.
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Post by headcoats on Apr 21, 2020 7:08:56 GMT 1
Brand new idler 😜
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Post by headcoats on Apr 21, 2020 11:00:05 GMT 1
CLICK PIC
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Post by JonW on Apr 21, 2020 11:10:09 GMT 1
with all the fittings? they wear too. The shaft could have worn as well tho... sometimes even new ones rattle cos of that.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 21, 2020 11:25:23 GMT 1
1200 ain't very high
Get it up to £1500
Steve
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Post by stusco on Apr 21, 2020 15:18:58 GMT 1
Yeah everything will be clunking at 1200
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Post by headcoats on Apr 24, 2020 10:47:13 GMT 1
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Post by headcoats on Apr 24, 2020 14:31:24 GMT 1
Here as promised, the red body set
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Post by tipfinchy on Apr 24, 2020 14:54:43 GMT 1
looks good , but so does your yellow set , I so nearly went very similar to your yellow Kenny set , before going for the Audi nardo grey you doing a poll then so we can vote mart ps , my money would be on yellow for the win
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Post by headcoats on Apr 24, 2020 15:18:38 GMT 1
Yes I will have to sort a Poll out LOL
Such a tough decision paint and makes you even more jittery because it's so feckin expensive !
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Post by oldbritguy on Apr 24, 2020 17:53:29 GMT 1
That is very nice indeed. Different from the usual and suits the bike well. I would go with the yellow even though I do like the red.
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Post by headcoats on Apr 24, 2020 20:56:34 GMT 1
Just done 13 miles on it and completely refused to rev over 4 grand !!
It has Zeel but is on the default 31K curve but I can't do that myself
I'm going to temporarily fit my standard F2 CDI and go out on that to see if it changes anything
Needs professionally set up really
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 24, 2020 21:57:56 GMT 1
Nightmare! Hope you get it sorted matey.
Alex
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Post by headcoats on Apr 24, 2020 22:02:44 GMT 1
Yes I just need it properly set up by someone who knows what they are doing LOL
In the meantime I can hopefully fit the standard CDI and use that until I get it booked in somewhere
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Post by headcoats on Apr 26, 2020 10:59:53 GMT 1
Still refusing to rev now ...
So tried the standard F2 CDI to eliminate the Zeel and no change
Upped the pilot jets and raised the needle , no change
So last night I bit the bullet and changed over the stator and fitted a working one I had off a trusted member and.... no change LOL
So will change carbs over off my other bike but after that I am truly stumped
Idles great , pulls off fine but just after 4K it just doesn't want to know
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Post by headcoats on Apr 26, 2020 13:01:53 GMT 1
IT WAS THE CARBS LOL
Put on the old PWK carbs that had been sitting for ages and Hey Presto !
Not perfect and goes through a big stumble but came on the pipe , well just a few times as still running in , but at 7K the front end came up an inch in second LOL
So got to strip these carbs and get to the bottom of it , even though I gave them a total mega clean and are my newest set, genuine PWKs I had from Cradley Kawasaki
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Post by LC_BOTT on Apr 26, 2020 17:43:47 GMT 1
Well done on getting stuck in, this bike likes to fight back it seems
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Post by headcoats on Apr 26, 2020 17:51:00 GMT 1
Just wished I hadn't swopped out the stator last night LOL
Now the small glimpse of the bike in the powerband is spurring me on !
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Post by headcoats on Apr 27, 2020 13:18:51 GMT 1
Got the duff carbs working like the spare set now after completely stripping (again ) and carb cleaner and fishing line technique !
Still horrendous flat spot/Lull which will need jetting out (if possible)
I know the PWK carbs have a lot of bleed over between circuits,but will big pilots help it pull through the Lull ?
Out of my depth again LOL
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 29, 2020 9:13:28 GMT 1
Depends what it is doing at the flat spot
If it is stuttering/machine gunning it is rich
If boggy it's usually lean
May even be a mismatch between pipe and barrels
I've been speaking to the guy I sold the rz250r to which had tzr race pipes on it
It pulls to 5k, flat to 7.5k flies 7.5 - 9.5 then hits a wall
Its going back to standard pipes now
Steve
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Post by headcoats on Apr 29, 2020 10:49:58 GMT 1
It idles great, pulls off then machine guns at just over 3 grand then at 4 grand it settles down then feels flat to 5 grand which is where it hits a wall No spluttering at all, just sounds like the engine is trying to "draw" I have feathered the throttle here and wound it right round to no effect, it only gets in the band if you hold the throttle steady(maybe a third open) and wait !! It has hit the power band a few times at 7 grand and really comes in with a wallop and you can see the addiction here LOL I think it's a lean spot as the plugs are quite light I have raised the needles , so ran out of adjustment there , that is why I was going to try bigger pilots
It may well be the exhausts and Athena barrels mismatch and be impossible to cure A bit of fine tuning on the ignition and carbs may make it less severe
Been told to try putting the chokes on to see if it will rev through the flat spot
Will also mark the throttle position too just to see what openings it is playing up at
Looked at a few dyno charts with Lomas and they are as flat as a pancake in the lower revs , making less power than standard !
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 29, 2020 11:19:24 GMT 1
If it's machine gunning at 3-4k I'd go down on pilot
Try 2 up on main after the choke trick 😉
Afraid the only way other than sticking it on a dyno is buying lots of jets
Steve
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Post by headcoats on Apr 29, 2020 12:20:01 GMT 1
Was looking at Banshee sites and jetting they use is 45,48,50 pilots and 145,148,150,152,155 mains N68 needles are popular , as are JJH
I have already 40,42,45,48 and 50 pilots and 140, 150,152 and 160 mains , plus JJH and N68 needles
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 29, 2020 13:28:42 GMT 1
Well you need to get quick at removing and fitting carbs 🤣
Steve
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