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Post by headcoats on Jun 10, 2019 9:21:24 GMT 1
Yes you could be right I knew I needed to make the rear ones almost invisible but painted black with maybe black anodised button head screws might do the trick ?
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Post by headcoats on Jun 11, 2019 12:31:05 GMT 1
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 11, 2019 12:42:26 GMT 1
EBay is shagged just now but if you search m8 alloy spacer or standoff you can get 10mm ones easily and cheaply
Steve
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Post by headcoats on Jun 11, 2019 13:23:34 GMT 1
Mocked up the clocks,horns and headlamp etc to see how it all sits
Still got to face measuring the brake hoses up and what route to go from the radial front master cylinder to the splitter under the bottom yoke !
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Post by headcoats on Jun 18, 2019 9:56:46 GMT 1
Fitted the rebuilt rear caliper with stainless pistons
Does anyone know the angle of the banjo that come out the rear of the caliper ?
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Post by andy748 on Jun 18, 2019 10:40:37 GMT 1
Think it was directly up on mr Rgv, the line runs up inverted the top of the swing arm curvature. Andy.
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Post by andy748 on Jun 18, 2019 10:41:59 GMT 1
Not inverted, in line with! Bloody predictive text. Andy.
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Post by headcoats on Jun 18, 2019 12:04:43 GMT 1
Yes I know it goes up and over but I meant the banjo itself
What bend has it got like 20 degrees. 45 degrees etc :-)
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Post by LC_BOTT on Jun 18, 2019 13:24:17 GMT 1
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 18, 2019 14:16:58 GMT 1
This is a braided line for an rgv. Looks like 45 degrees off the caliper Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 18, 2019 14:26:35 GMT 1
Did the same on the lc with a venhill power hose kit. 45 degree bend Steve
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Post by headcoats on Jun 18, 2019 14:31:23 GMT 1
Cheers, looks like anything less than that wouldn't make it round the bend
Looking at those silencers reminds me of another job that has to be done LOL
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Post by headcoats on Jun 21, 2019 12:18:22 GMT 1
Now the bottom end is out the wardrobe at my Moms , I can look at fitting it in the frame !
As I have the Athena top end to go on, I put the base gaskets on that came with the kit and they don't fit FFS
The dowel holes in the gasket were too tight and when the 2 gaskets were laid side by side, they overlapped !
Had to open the holes up a bit and shave the inner sides of the base gaskets
Athena make gaskets so you would have thought they would fit out the packet ?
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Post by headcoats on Jun 21, 2019 17:48:58 GMT 1
Momentous occasion !
Here's one I made earlier LOL
Cases now in frame with tie bars fitted
I prefer doing it this way , minus the top end, clutch, flywheel etc as it saves mauling
Trimmed the base gaskets like mentioned but need to seal those daft rubber bungs on the base of the Athena barrels before fitting
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 21, 2019 18:24:06 GMT 1
Woohoo!
You took yer feckin time 🤣
A milestone moment
Steve
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Post by headcoats on Jun 23, 2019 9:26:23 GMT 1
Major Think time again alert !!!!!!!!!!!!
I had presumed my Lomas pipes would fit after I had some adaptors made to fit in the Athena ports
WRONG !!!
The rear mounts are out but that's half the story , the front of the exhausts are sitting too low
It looks like some material needs to come off the down pipes to pull them up and align the rear mounts
If I cut the down pipes then they will only be any good for this Athena setup
They still might not line up either if I attempt this
So options
A. Refit some standard YPVS barrels so Lomas exhausts will fit (keep the Athena barrels for something else )
B. Have some bespoke pipes made for the Athena barrels (out of price range really)
C. Chop at the Lomas pipes and hope they fit (don't fancy this)
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jun 23, 2019 10:57:05 GMT 1
How about asking Kenny to alter them for you. I have seen Pieter the tuner I use do this for customers. It's not that easy and does take s bit of effort and time if you want it to look and perform well. It must be still cheaper than a complete system.
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Post by headcoats on Jun 23, 2019 15:33:17 GMT 1
Had a wrestle and with a bit of bending of the rear mount , it's kinda fitted !
Even though the hangers are already spaced out , I have issues with clearance in several places like rear footbrake hitting the pipe and the silencer will probably hit the swingarm bobbin
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Post by tsa on Jun 23, 2019 16:25:47 GMT 1
How much clearance between the can mounts and the swingarm? Can you pull the rear bracket outwards as to pull the pipes inboard more to clear the pedal? As for being to low it looks fine to me Martin.
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Post by headcoats on Jun 23, 2019 16:44:00 GMT 1
I can pull it in a bit but the the side stand hits the pipe the other side ! Lomas have fat bellies aswell so don't help Going to be like threading a needle LOL
Can't get the silencers to sit parallel to each other, so a TZ wonky angles may be in order !
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Post by headcoats on Jun 24, 2019 11:37:47 GMT 1
Right I want your honest opinions here !
Now the Lomas GP pipes have been a mare to fit and this is where I'm at
Marmite thing here is that either the silencers line up aka RGV250 etc or they look mean TZ racer style, as on the piss LOL
I did want the TZ look though and I will shorten the silencers and will be re sleeved in carbon
One advantage of the sticking out bottom silencer is that it will now miss the swingarm bobbin !
The large curved stinger that runs left to right may then need the curve pulling in if possible ?
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Post by cb250g5 on Jun 24, 2019 12:25:23 GMT 1
I like the wonky look, but you could make up a small spacer to sit between the pipes and the silencers, and cut it on the wonk to line the silencers up. Start with washers on the bolts & adjust thicknesses until they point where you want.
Then just get someone with a milling machine to make it up in ally. Sadly I don't have a mill. One day though.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 24, 2019 13:24:12 GMT 1
If they are going to be wonky then make them proper wonky
Firstly you need stubby cans
Second I would bet the bike/pipes to a fabricator. Get rid of the support bracket between the 2 pipes then shorten the lower pipe so the flange is just after the bend. Then re weld the silencer flange back on at the correct angle to make the exit spout sit right
Steve
Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 24, 2019 13:27:42 GMT 1
Like these ones Steve
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Post by headcoats on Jun 24, 2019 13:29:14 GMT 1
Like that idea Steve but that support bracket is needed really
Yes that setup looks great as it was my inspiration for this build 😎
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 24, 2019 13:56:47 GMT 1
Like that idea Steve but that support bracket is needed really Yes that setup looks great as it was my inspiration for this build 😎 Yes I know it's needed I missed out the bit where a new one was made just behind the flange Steve
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Post by donkeychomp on Jun 24, 2019 22:41:32 GMT 1
I think that's way to wonky. If they exited either side then a bit of height difference would be ok but not on side by side pipes. Can you not loosen everything until they sit right then see what needs adapting? Few spacers hither and dither might do the trick. Then again I could be talking total bollocks Alex
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Post by headcoats on Jun 24, 2019 23:11:31 GMT 1
No not at all Donk :-)
I have done moving it around and trying spacers for what seems like a week LOL
Because the pipes have fat middles , on the left it was hitting the side stand something stupid , so had to take action but it shifted the problem to the other side !
Keep the ideas coming !
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Post by donkeychomp on Jun 25, 2019 0:19:40 GMT 1
Might seem a bit drastic but if the side stand mount was cut off and moved a bit...would they fit?
Alex
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 25, 2019 7:19:39 GMT 1
I like the wonky look personally, but they need to look deliberately wonky in my opinion, like the pipes on that lovely KR Lc. Short cans will really change the "look" of the pipes too. Worth trying to mock up some 6 inch cans to give you an idea - either a bit of CAD work , or a couple of empty beer cans will give you an idea. May help you decide if wonky works better or not ? Dusty
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